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Toyota Camry Engine Related Questions

nsaturnnsaturn Member Posts: 4
I have 1996 Camry LE which is displaying the Check engine. I took to a Toyota Dealer and they said the Emissions Control was malfunctioning VSV at Charcoal Canister not Switching, to clear the problem they will have to replace this the VSP unit and want $250 for the part + $100 for the labor.

Are they asking too much and if so will a regular mechanic be able to do this for less?

Thanks in advance and appreciate any feedback,
«134567

Comments

  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Yes, the policy started with the 1997 model year. I had such a Camry (4-cylinder) with no sludge problems. I sold it at 111K miles in 2004. I gave the buyer a printout of my service records as well as a copy of the extended warranty for sludge.
  • xrmt01xrmt01 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 91 Toyota Camry with about 135000 miles. It smokes on start up and burns alot of oil. I need to check it every 2 weeks and add some. Is this normal? I have had some seals, valves, and rings changed but it still does this. Any suggestions?
  • jbkennedyjbkennedy Member Posts: 70
    I have a 97' LE with 70 K miles. At 50K, the engine would smoke at start up and my local dealer repaired the car under the 60 K drive train warranty. The service rep said the valve seals were cracked. Two years later, and out of warranty, I am having the same problem.

    Other that causing some pollution, is this causing damage to the engine by not having this repaired? I was told the out of warranty repair is over $1,000, which I don't have right now.

    Has anyone else experienced this problem with the 2.2 L engine?
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    We have a 96 RAV (75K), seals replaced in 97 and again in 99 (this time along with the short block engine) Now in 2003 they are shot again. Prior repairs were covered under warranty. No good will from Toyota at this point...they did offer a $1000 rebate on the purchase of a new Toyota...just bought a Camry last year though. Might want to write to Consumer affairs, if you would consider a new vehicle purchase, perhaps they'd make you the same offer.

    So much for Toyotas lasting forever or running 200K with no troubles!
  • topnotcher0topnotcher0 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I got the "Engine Malfunction Light" on and checked up with a mechanic - he told me that the Charcoal Canister need to be replaced and quoted a sum of $360 + tax ... please let me know if this is too much ?

    Also, is there a problem in the long run, if this is not replaced immediately.

    Thanks for your help !!!
  • dherrin350dherrin350 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '97 Camry with the 4cyl engine and about 70000 miles on it. About a year ago I started noticing blue smoke emissions from the car when first starting in the morning. The thing that is frustrating is that this occurs only about every third or fourth startup. I have read this may be caused by leaking valve seals. Is there anything else that could cause it? It seems it would happen every time with leaking valve seals. Thanks for any input.
  • jbkennedyjbkennedy Member Posts: 70
    Try a can of Techron gas treatment. My Camry has the same mileage and will smoke after sitting awhile. Now the problem has gone away completely!
  • mrsacks1mrsacks1 Member Posts: 11
    Please Help! My '97 Camry's Check Engine light came on (and yes I checked and the engine is there!) I purchased an engine analyzer (autoxray) and the following Trouble Codes came up: P0171 System Too Lean-Bank 1; P1130 A/F Sensor Performance Fault-Bank 1; P1135 A/F sensor Heater Circuit-Bank 1. Can someone tell me what part or parts need to be repaired or replaced? I'd rather do the work myself if I knew what was wrong and what part or parts I need. Anyone have any experience with this or can point me in the right direction. Much Thanks, Donna (Love the car-got 98,700 miles and lookin for an even 100K!)
  • syndibuggsyndibugg Member Posts: 1
    Hi I have a 1996 Toyota Camry and my check engine light has been coming on for a while now. I'm assuming its the check engine light it's on the left hand side of the panel.
    Anyways I got it checked out and they said it could either be the oxygen sensor or transmission so they reset and it stayed off for a few months. And they told me if it came on again they would replace the oxygen sensor. Well it's on again and I'm not sure what to do about this should I go and get another diagnostic done again to double check the problem or just replace the oxygen sensors? Has anyone had this problem?
  • hondacivichondacivic Member Posts: 1
    Hey guys,
    even my Honda Civic has the same problem. I am not sure if I should get it fixed or just leave it...
    How important is it to get fixed. Mechanic says the Oxygen sensor could be $275 itself.

    My car has been running good even with the "Check Engine" light on.
    Any help would be appreciated....

    Thanks in advance,
    Uday
  • peterpanpeterpan Member Posts: 120
    There may be some real problems with the engine that need to be fixed.

     

    You should let the dealer do a diagnostic to see what parts are not working.

     

    You can then decide what should be replaced, when and by whom.
  • hallagehallage Member Posts: 24
    I just had a shop change my timing belt on my '96 Camry LE 4cyl. When I picked up the car, the check engine light was on (it wasnt' when I brought it in). They read the code as P0104, low effeciency cat converter, and said it couldn't be their fault. Is this true?

     

    Does anyone know of a free website with list of codes?
  • jward7jward7 Member Posts: 1
    i have my car at Mike Miller Toyota in culver city ca. they said it needs a charcoal canister the price they quoted is 542.00 the prices i have seen are 263.95 parts 65.00 dollars for labor or $360.00 plus tax isn"t 542.00 quite high please help with this matter.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Why do they say it "needs" a charcoal canister? Is the car not passing an emissions test? Is it not running right? Is the "check engine" light on?

     

    The owner's manual for my former '97 Camry called for blowing out some of the canister's lines with compressed air at 72K mile intervals in certain states, including California.

     

    I think the canister should last the life of the car, unless there really is some problem. I'd get a second opinion, or at least have them explain in detail what's wrong.

     

    $542 is outrageous, IMO.
  • broncosrulebroncosrule Member Posts: 1
    i recently bought a 1996 camry (no owners manual). just passed 150,000 miles and the check engine light just came on. can anybody tell me what - if any - services are required at this mile mark? thanks.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Do you know if any service has been performed recently?

     

    Lots of items need servicing at the 150K mark, the same as needed at 30K and 90K. If the timing belt has never been changed, it should be done now also.

     

    I'd recommend buying an owner's AND separate maintenance manual on eBay.
  • camry spottercamry spotter Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone,

     

    I just bought a 2001 wagon and would like to hear from anyone who has advice regarding engine modifications. I am contemplating fitting a turbo or supercharger at about 6psi boost, but not sure which way to go - has anyone done this here? I have a 6 speed sequential Hewland gearbox out of the old Camry Super Tourer that ran in Sth Africa and Australia a couple of years back which will fit with a little bit of jiggling and will take the horsepower OK.

     

    I'm not sure if I should lose the carbon clutch though - has anyone ever driven a car with a carbon clutch, I hear they are a bit 'on/off' in operation?

     

    This will be a daily driver from college and back each day, so I'm undecided if I should fit 19" wheels - they might attract too much attention.

     

    Any advice would be appreciated.

     

    Josh.
  • new24umnew24um Member Posts: 1
    Folks,

     

    Need help with my 2000 toyo camry. The CEL light is on and the verdict is that I need to replace the EGR valve, modulator and vacuum switch. Is it possible to have this done inhouse. I am new to this...please help.

     

    TnR
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    What do you mean by "inhouse"? Doing it yourself? If you have the skills, by all means go ahead.

     

    A good service manual will give you an idea of the complexity of the repair.

     

    If you're wondering if the diagnosis is correct, then I'd recommend seeking a second opinion, preferably from an independent garage, maybe one that specializes on Japanese cars.
  • scotpscotp Member Posts: 1
    I need some help ...I love my camry with 267,000 miles on it this car is a great runner until today. the car has been running fine when I went to start it this morning all it wanted to do was crank and not turn over pretty strange ( the symptoms are simmilar to trying to start a car with a bad ignition coil). I've got new wire and distributor and the spark is good any ideas on what it could be. The car showed no sign of not starting until now and I can't get it to fire up....I'm I overlooking something easy????
  • typesixtypesix Member Posts: 321
    If you have to crank it 2-3 different times before engine catches when engine is COLD, likely the cold start injector time switch is bad and needs replacing. It tells a cold start injector to spray extra fuel to help the engine start.
  • jiangm72jiangm72 Member Posts: 1
    Is it the engine immobilizer something standard for car of this model? I just could not find the indicator (which should flash when the system is on) as described on the owner's manual? Somebody can give me a hint to find whether the engine immobilizer is on the car?
    Thanks a lot,
    Ming
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    The LE 4-cylinder (at least the 2004 model I have) does not come with an engine immobilizer.
  • ajjooajjoo Member Posts: 1
    my '00 camry v4 just hit 90K and as soon as it did that the engine light came on. the engine light was on previously as well at around 80K and my wife took it to meineke who charged $400 for spark plug change/wire change/ tune up/ air filter/ fuel filter and THAT'S IT! they also recommended to get the timing belt/tensioner/accessory belts/water pump changed ASAP. The mechanic had also mentioned that 'he' had turned off the engine light for the time being and that we should change the oxygen sensor on the car and whatnot.
    I got a quote for the timing belt change from strauss discount auto for $370 which includes the timing belt/accessory belt/tensioner/water pump.
    now to the real deal :
    1) should i go to the meineke guy and give him a piece of my mind for practically stealing from my wife ( he charged $28 for each spark plug!!!! )?
    2) now that the engine light is on again should i take it to the dealer or is autozone an ok option?
    3) is the quote on the timing belt a good deal or should i get the parts from else where ( found some cheap parts online ) and have him just give the labor.
    4) should i take another hit to my wallet and get the parts from toyota dealership?
    5) how does one change transmission fluid by themselves? ( i would like to save the $90 they're charging ) and whats the best fluid to use?

    I would really appreciate any help! thanks.
  • loucapriloucapri Member Posts: 214
    I will only use Meineke to do the muffler.

    I have a 97 LE 4 cyl at 106K, I know what you have in mind, try to save some money by going to other places, even thinking getting the part yourself then have someone put it on and hoping to just paying for their labor.

    My advice, Don't Do it. Been there, done that and it ended up costing more.
    Let get to your answers first

    1) no, $28 is not uncommon. Especially for the Camry, they use platinum plugs and it costs a bit. I have my car done in the dealer at 60K, suppose to include spark plugs but since it's platinum, they want additonal $60 on top.

    2) usually is related to emission when the engine light is on. Since you didn't mention how much Meineke wants, but my guess will be around $150-$200 if you have it done at toyota

    3) $370 for timing belt/accessory belts/water pump? YES, sounds CHEAP.
    one toyota dealer want $750 for timing belt and water pump on my Camry. I took it to another toyota dealer and just replace my timing belt and drive belts for $270

    4) what parts are you thinking to get from the dealer? oxyen sensor? belts? water pumps? I would, and I would have toyota put it it instead of going somewhere, I will explain it.

    5) changing transmission fluid yourself? Messy. not too hard if you have the tools and space. you need to work under the car and at the same time you will need to unscrew all the bolts while you are down there. (I just don't feel safe working under a car personally) and what if one of the bolt is super tight that you can't get it out?
    By the way, a transmission fluid service should be less than $100 if go to local shop. I did take my car to the dealer and have them do a power flush. it's about $150 but it sucked out almost all the fluid (about 10 qt?) compare to draining it the old way (2-3 qt)

    I once want to save money and try to take my car to some local shop. Cheap brake job, and it didn't even last for a year. End up going to Toyota and have the brake re work. It's more expensive but it last much much longer and I do think it worth it.

    Buying part and have someone put it on. Sounds great and good way to save money. Problem is what happened when they didn't work as expected? The guy will say 'bad part' talk to toyota. and toyota say hey, we didn't put it on, sorry. End up costing you more in the long run.

    See if you take it to the dealer at the beginning, it might cost you little more but it makes it easier to deal with when things not working properly.
    Think about this, your 00 is still pretty new, if you keep it in good condition, it will run for another 100K easily. Also, if you decided to sell it later, you have all ther records to prove you take good care of your car and works are done by the dealer, it makes a difference.

    However, do shop around I have been to 3 toyota dealer in my areas and some will say you need this and that but the other, just tell you what you actually need and I trust them.

    This is my experience with my camry, Highlander and the toyota dealer. hope it help
  • berzerker3berzerker3 Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone... i just got a 92 camry and was looking for upgrades...it seems that there really arn't any mods for this year! i was thinking about getting a new v6 engine and manual trany... i see they have a super charger, but i would much rather have a turbo! if any one can give my advice on where to look for parts( everything: wheels to engine) it would help a lot. also i was wondering if anyone knows where to get after market headlights and or a tail light conversion kit( i disslike the all the way across look of the tail lights)! anyway thanks again.....
    ...berzerker3...
  • sbcvulcansbcvulcan Member Posts: 3
    answers

    1. The plugs are overpriced. They are not as cheap as your Bosch or other brand but if they are OEM plugs but that still seems way out of the ball park.
    2. Take it to a dealer or a foreign auto repair shop and have them read the diagnostics. In fact you should find a reputable foreign auto repair shop and have them do all your mechanical work and diagnostics. Leave meinke to mufflers and brakes.
    3. Your quote including water pump seems fair.
    4. timing belt is an integral maintenance piece, don't cheap out.
    5. have not done this before, sorry.

    if you change your oil, do your belt as required per schedule, this car can last a long long time.
  • wegner1wegner1 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1999 Camry LE with 100,5000miles. At around 100K the check engine light came on but went off after a day or so (mostly highway miles). It has come on and turned off several times since, turning on after sitting for a couple of days or only driving in city conditions and usually going off after highway driving (70-80mph). Does anyone have a clue to what may be causing this? Once it comes on again I'm planning to take it to have a diagnostic run.
  • loucapriloucapri Member Posts: 214
    I believe most of the check engine light is use for emission purposes. When it comes on, it usually means something related to your emission has a problem. Maybe an O2 senor or maybe a cat. convertor. Hope it's not something costly.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    The CEL denotes a problem with an emission system component. At 100K, O2 sensors are a likely suspect. If you have an Autozone near you, stop in and they can pull the code (for free) off the OBDII connector and tell you what it means for your Camry. Your dealer will probably charge $75 for this 2 minute operation, calling it a "diagnostic fee."

    BTW, the CEL typically goes off after a pre-determined number of starts if the fault is not repeated.
  • garzagarza Member Posts: 3
    Hello everyone. My '99 Solara V6 has started hesitating upon acceleration. I checked plugs, and they all looked great"just rolled 61,000 miles". I did have the check engine light come on a while back, and I replaced the O2 sensor on the back side of the engine, and it fixed that. It does not miss at full throttle, does not have a rough idle, just when you are gradually accelerating, at any speed, the car has a "slight bucking" feel to it. I currently have no check engine light on. Air filter is new also. It is not a full miss like a carb sputtering, its more like a jerking feeling. Any recommendations as what I should look into?? I thought maybe the transmission, but im almost sure it is not a tranny issue.

    RG
  • afbaseafbase Member Posts: 1
    I have a problem with starting my 95 V-6 Camry. I have to pump gas to get the thing running. I think the spark plugs have something to do with it. The problem is removing the engine cover to get access to the spark plugs. The screws the mount this plastic to the engine are not Star, Philips, allen, or anything else i can think of. Its more of a circular hole that seems to have no grooves that a screw driver could use.

    My other issue is the Overdrive light. It keeps blinking with the engine like on. The overdrive light will stop blinking if i hit a bump hard enough or if i hit another bump, restart the O/D light to resume blinking. Is it time for a new Transmission? i have 150k on the good car.
    HELP!!!!!!
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    Have you ever replaced the fuel filter? At 150K, it is the best place to start. Use Toyota fuel filter instead of Fram or Bosch. Then I would replace the plugs.

    I don't think the O/D light coming on and off has anything to do with the tranny going bad. With 150K, if you do not normally drive with O/D off,
    locate the overdrive switch on the transmission housing and disconnect it.

    The hex allen wrench is what you need to remove the plastic plug cover. I don't know why Toyota bothered to use that little plastic piece. They had to say " 3.0L 24 valve " someplace I guess. The screws are not star type as you mentioned.

    Joe
  • foleyfoley Member Posts: 2
    My '00 Solara does the same thing. Basically it is a mild surge under light throttle. I don't think this is serious at this point, but would like to figure it out soon! I've tried changing plugs, cleaning air intake etc. but am running out of ideas.
  • garzagarza Member Posts: 3
    Yes, While you are cruising at say 25-30 "or even more" or so with your foot lightly into the pedal, it almost "bucks" the car, but if you let off, or accellerate, its gone. I have taken apart the entire air cleaner assembly and cleaned, fresh oil, new filter ect..Im wondering if there is not some sensor going out or? Seems throttle based to me, something like a TPS or? It idles just fine. I dont know much about these engines soo. It is not throwing any codes, but I will check again.

    RG
  • gdub2gdub2 Member Posts: 10
    My engine light is on - and my code is P0441 - Evap emission control purge flow low - does anyone know if this will be covered under the 1996 through 1998 Model Year Federal Emissions Warranty Enhancement before I have to take it to the dealer and pay $100 for them to look at it?

    Has anyone ever been covered undered this Emissions Warranty Enhancement for repairs? Knowing that you have to get the problem checked out at a Toyota Dealer ($100.00) before they tell you whether it is covered under the warranty.

    I just had the tranmission rebuilt $1400.00 and now this engine light shows up. I'm getting ready to put it up for sale by owner. It has 119K miles and one owner me! So I need to hurry up and get it ready for selling so I can buy my new car. I've had it with this camry
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Do you have the Federal Emissions Warranty Enhancement documents? I'd be skeptical that they would still cover a 10-year-old car with 119K miles.

    Besides, I don't think the warranty enhancement had anything to do with the evaporative emissions system, but I could be mistaken.
  • gdub2gdub2 Member Posts: 10
    Yes - I do have the document. It was a letter that they sent out I tried to make it into an image let's see if this works ..

    Emissions Warranty

    Here is an Excerpt:

    "The enhancement coverage is on the Evaporative System and is extended to the components specified below for a period of 14 yrs or 150,000 miles from the vehicles in service date, whichever occurs first.
    -Evap storage canister
    -Evap system pressure sensor
    -Fuel cap
    -Fuel tank
    -Fuel tank filter neck
    -Purge valve
    -Tank vapor vent line
    -Three-way valve
    -Any ohter part or component, including any maintenance parts, between the fuel tank and teh intake manifold (but not including the intake manifold) designed to contain or conduct fuel vapor from the fuel system"
  • hcheneyhcheney Member Posts: 1
    I have the same issue. 2001 Camry, V-6, 71k miles. If you drive it at 40 to 50 mph and hold steady on the gas, it will start jerking badly. I have had it to the dealer twice for this issue. The first time they told me nothing showed up on the computer. The second time, they cleaned the carbon off the throttle?, since it hadn't been done and that "may help". Well it didn't and now it is going back again. This vehicle idles smoothly, runs well at highway speeds, but in that speed range, which is most non-highway speeds, it is simply awful to drive in. Please post if you have any luck and I will do the same. I don't want a Toyota dealer to pull parts and "HOPE" it works, that is what I would expect at the corner gear head garage.
  • k2005k2005 Member Posts: 4
    :confuse: I just purchased, a 98 Camry LE w/ 69k, I've owned VWs for years so I don't know a whole lot about toyotas. First question, when I start my vehicle and accelarate it for the first time it make a noise an feels like it's somehow forcing the engine, is that normal. Second question in the freeway at speeds of 60+ my steering wheel vibrates a lot. Third question approx. how much will it cost to get a keyless entry alarm and control? Thank you.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Number 1, I don't know exactly what you mean by a noise "forcing" the engine -- you may want to elaborate. Number 2, the most likely cause is improperly balanced tires/wheels, probably the fronts. Number 3, I have no idea.
  • txstudmfntxstudmfn Member Posts: 6
    If it feels kinda like the pedal sticks/ hesitates/ jerks on acceleration then follow this procedure.
    ~Take the air filter assembly off.
    ~You'll notice the closed valve at the opening to the engine block.
    ~Use some throttle body cleaner and an old tooth brush and clean the area before that valve real good.
    ~Let it dry. Then repeat one more time.
    ~After 30 minutes put the air filter assembly back and you are done.
    It worked for me. Infact there is a site that shows you how it is done (with pics). You just have to do some good research. I did this like a year ago. Don't pay someone for something you can do yourself !!
  • briana2briana2 Member Posts: 1
    It sounds like you have an air leak in your fuel system.
    What seems to be happening, is your fuel filter is not full at 40-50MPH.
    YOUR ENGINE DOENT HAVE ENOUGH FUEL AT 50 MPH
    It seems that your engine is pulling the fuel out faster than it can be filled.
    At higher speeds the engine the pumps fuel faster, thus what supplying more fuel.

    I had this SAME problem on my dodge diesel.
    The problem was at the fuel tank. AIR was getting into the fuel pickup.
    Dodge or Toyota doesn't matter.
    Get air in a fuel system you have problems.
    They had to put in a New Fuel Pickup.
    They have a way to check the fuel system.
    Give it a shot

    Brian
  • bluesabrebluesabre Member Posts: 2
    Congrats on your Gen4 purchase, I have the same model and year. (Except mine has over 104k miles on it.) By "forcing the engine," do you mean you floor the accelerator pedal and the engine doesn't respond like you expect? You didn't provide much info, but it could be a number of things: Transmission for starters, when was the fluid flushed and replaced? You're also getting close on the timing belt replacement, did mine at 70k. It could be as simple as a plugged PCV valve or dirty intake. Those last two items are very easy to remedy - your PCV valve should be replaced every 60k. You can get a new PCV and grommet from your local Toyota dealer and intake cleaner from your local autoparts store (cheaper than the dealer.)
  • k2005k2005 Member Posts: 4
    you knew exactly what I was taking about. But I thought Gen4 timing belt was suppose to be replace at 90k, anyway, I will be doing a service tomorrow because no service was performed at 60k. This is what i'll be doing. New tires (they're really worn out), new brakes, 4 wheel alingment, replace oil & filter, transmission flush, cooling system flush, spark plugs, and air filter. and I guess now that you mention it. I should replace pcv valve then. So it's going to be quite expensive, do you think I my timing belt could wait until 90k?.
  • jdoug6jdoug6 Member Posts: 2
    I have a '96 Camry 4-cyl. LE 2.2 liter (116,000 miles, 68,000 of which put on car in last 2.5 years). I have been advised to do the following:

    Tune up - $175 parts, labor, tax (has not been done since I bought car 11/02)
    Leaking fluids (transmission, power steering, CV boot). Mechanic does not want to replace power steering pump until all leaks are fixed (e.g., transmission pan gasket, filter). This work would also include steam cleaning engine. - $225 parts, labor, tax. (2.5 hours labor @$60 per hour).

    Total $400 out the door.

    If power steering pump is still a problem, roughly $175 for rebuilt and 2.5 hours labor.

    Mechanic is reputable and comes recommended. Are these costs competitive (Los Angeles zip 90042)?

    Thanks!
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Tune up? The only "tune up" required is to change the spark plugs, which is an easy job on the 4-cylinder. Is the engine running smoothly right now?

    I'd certainly replace the torn CV boot, and recommend repairing the tranny leak. Where is the power steering fluid leaking from? It would certainly be a good idea to repair that also, but what is the problem with the power steering pump?

    And I'd skip the steam cleaning - just have him use a shop rag to clean off excess grease/fluids from the leaks.
  • garzagarza Member Posts: 3
    OK, I took out the air filter assembly down to the throttle body. Then I cleaned inside the throttle body best I could with carb cleaner and a shop rag. This FIXED my problem. I have no clue why, but the car does not have the hesitation any more. Thanks a lot for the tip.
  • pavlovsdogpavlovsdog Member Posts: 6
    Hi I bought a used 2002 Toyota Camry with 19000 miles and have a question. When I bring my toyota to a quick stop (as opposed to a slow stop) the engine will vibrate for about a second and then idle smooth again. I had this checked out by a toyota master technician before purchase and he said that it is the computerized idleing. It will idle just one click higher than it should in certain situations. He said in no way is this harmful to the vehicle, and it cannot be fixed. He claims this is just something you sometimes have to deal with having a 4cylinder as opposed to a 6. Although I do not believe that it cannot be fixed(it's probably just not cost effective to them), do you think this is a fair assessment? It really isn't that big of a deal(the vibration is only obvious if you are sitting in the driver seat), but I was just curious if anyone had any inuput.

    Thanks
  • riverrunnerriverrunner Member Posts: 2
    This is my first toyota, purchased used with 30k now has 42k miles on it. About 3/4 of the time when I apply brakes to come to a stop my engine strongly shudders. It began when only my air conditioning was turned on. The shudder is becoming more pronounced. Now, as I check it without the air on the engine vibrates slightly. At first I thought it was the compressor causing the engine to bog down while slowing, maybe something loose under the hood, maybe a belt??? I have asked 2 toyota service techs about it and they have never heard of this happening. Has anyone had this issue and found out what the cause is? Any ideas what may be causing this?
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