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Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions

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  • rocker8rocker8 Posts: 1
    Thanks in advance for your great forum. My wifes Camry has an electrical problem. While driving, the dash lights for alternator, lights, and brake came on. The battery went dead that night. I tried charging it and noticed the charger on full charge, and never letting up as the battery was charging. I noticed while troubleshooting that if I pulled the under hood "charge" fuse, the warning lights went out when the engine was running.Seems like a direct short somewhere. Could it be the voltage regulator ? Also noticed if I disconnect the battery cables, the battery charges normally. Any ideas ? Thanks !
  • jefarljefarl Posts: 2
    My daytime running lights do not shut off when I shut off the engine and remain in the car for a while. The sometimes they don't shut off even after I open the drivers door and leave the car.

    anyone else have this problem or has Honda indicated what is wrong. Yesterday my battery drained because the lights never shut off after i left the car.

    Jef
    2000 Camry
  • i changed the battery on my 95 camry v-6, but i can't get the car to start. i think the factory alarm is cutting off the ignition and i don't know how to get around the alarm/ignition kill. i don't have the alarm fob anymore, so i don't know what to do. any suggestions would really be appreciated. thanks!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Rocker8,
    Sounds like something is draining the battery down, could be a number of things.

    I'd start first with the most likely, the alternator may have a blown diode. Assuming you can charge up your battery by disconnecting the cables as mentioned, drive on over to an autoparts chain, and have them do a battery and alternator test. They can do it on the car, which tests whether your battery is good, but also will test your alternator output under a load. This will tell you whether all of your diodes are good, and it is putting out the rated current. This is usually a free service they'll do. I'm suspecting that they'll find a bad alternator.

    Come on back and let us know the results. If that didn't fix it, we'll take the next steps....but it's good to start with a known good basic power status...a good battery and alternator.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    jefarl,

    You should post your year, make, model of vehicle. Your bug will be a vehicle specific bug depending upon electrical schematics. Without having Honda schematics myself, if it was mine.... I'd be checking the DRL relays.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Ralph,

    Check to make sure your 30Amp AM2 fuse is good.

    That fuse is located in the engine compartment, in junction block #2, on the inside of the front left fender/wheel well area.
  • I have a 1996 Camry that I bought for my daughter and everything on the car works except for the windshield washer delivery system. I thought of checking the fuses first but cannot identify where to look or what fuse may activate the unit. I do not hear any noise from the washer motor....but it just may not be getting power to operate. Any help would be greatly apprecuiate.
    Totalsale4
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,063
    You could test this with a simple 12V test light. The washer motor is probably attached to the bottom of the windshield fluid plastic tank. Remove the connector, have someone work the wash switch, and see if the light lights in any of the holes you plug it into. Naturally the wire side of the light must be grounded to metal or the negative pole of the battery. If you get a light, then the motor is no good. If you don't get a light, go to the fuse panel and look for a burned fuse. They should be marked. If all the fuses are good, one would have to suspect the wash switch.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    There is a 20A Wiper fuse, which feeds your wiper/washer switch (w/combo wiper relay), which then feeds the wiper motor and washer motor. If either of those work, then you know your fuse is fine............and the problem is either the switch or the motor.

    As Shifty suggests, a digital voltmeter or test light at the washer motor will determine whether it is getting power but the motor isn't turning (washer motor bad).....or there is no power there (defective switch).
  • teddawteddaw Posts: 6
    Kiawah... sorry for the delay. Spring break called!
    OK so I have verified that when the car is in reverse the pin on the junction box below the steering column goes from 0V to 13V properly. I have also checked some of the pins for various taillights and those too turn on when the headlights are turned on. So i think I have an actual problem with the harnessing. I cant get continuity thru the harnessing on the trunk lid to ground or any of the other wires. Do you happen to know where I could get a wiring diagram as the main harness that runs from the JB on the left side of the passenger seat has 20+ wires in it. Im trying to ring out each wire but there are some duplicate colors. -Teddaw
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Not something that would be easy to get to you.

    There is a harness that runs along the floor channel on the left hand side (drivers left side), up above the left rear wheel, and then a 12 pin connector up there. Check back there to see if can meter voltages out there.

    This is really strange, don't normally see these types of problems. Was this car in an accident or something? damaging either the left side or left rear? Has somebody done some cutting or modifications....for instance rear amp or speakers or ???
  • teddawteddaw Posts: 6
    I have exposed most of the harnessing the runs along the floor channel and all the up the rear seat. The car has an aftermarket remote start and keyless entry installed up near the drivers side junction box.. Lots of poor quality splices up there and what looks like 1 or 2 in the harness in the floor channel, but no splices on the wires for the reverse lights. The car has not been wrecked. I'll look deeper for the 12 pin you speak of... I hope its just that!!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    As mentioned before, you have a couple problems as the reverse lights are a different circuit than your other lights. I'd track down the reverse light problem first, as that is the easiest/simplest to track down.
  • my kids car got broken into and they stole his stereo out of the dash. He had to jumpstart it and crossed the pos/neg cables. It fried his battery and will not turn over now. I bought a new battery, I replaced the EFI relay and fuse, and engine main relay with parts from a junkyard. It still will not turn over. I checked all the fuses I can find. Under hood, left knee panel. I really believe it's electrical, but don't know what to do next, please help. Could the alarm have something to do with it? It doesn't appear that the steering column was messed with.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    When you say it "won't turn over"......do you mean that the starter doesn't turn, engage the engine, and turn it?

    Or do you mean the starter works, but the engine doesn't start running?

    If it is the first, you can check the voltage on the starter primary to see if you have 13 volts, and then check the starter motor voltage.

    Did you replace the parts you mentioned because they were bad (as determined by metering), or were you just replacing parts in the hope that they had something to do with the problem?

    Do you know how to read electrical schematics?
  • When I turn the key nothing happens at all. No accessory lights or anything. My guess is the ignition switch, but is it being caused by the car alarm? I replaced the parts hoping it would help. I know very little about electricity (know little about mechanics) I might be able to stumble thru a schematic, but no I do not know how. Not sure how to test relays. I get no power windows or power to any other items.
    If I get it narrowed down I can find someone to help me check things I can't figure out. Thanks for trying to help me.
    another thing that I noticed is that you can't step on brake and put the car in gear. You need to push the override button
  • matman1matman1 Posts: 2
    Hello, You all seem like a but of smart fellers,
    I'm new and thought i might give your grace and knowlage a try.

    There is a similar post in here, but not quite the same.

    My wife's car had stalled a few times on acceleration, but would restart, finnaly wouldn't restart (after about a week of stalls when the engine warmed up) Had to get it towed. just shut off on her... took it to a great machanic, they told me to replace the distributer (and one other thing that i can't remember now). so i bought a used distributer and it ran like a top. lately it has been lagging real hard on take off, and the idol can't make up its mind where it wants to be. between 700-1100rpm well, she had just pulled into our driveway and it shut off. didn't restart. when i got home, it restarted. AHHH! not sure what to do. Hopefully you all can help. I think there was some other part that worked with the distributer...

    Matt
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Greenie,

    We need to start with the basic power. It will be helpful if you have a voltmeter to troubleshoot this problem (digital over analog is preferrable), you could probably pick it up at a radio shack or autoparts chain. Alternatively, you could probably also do this with a cheap 12v test light indicator obtainable for maybe 5-10 at an autoparts chain. The only reason I would get the voltmeter, is that when all is said and done you may have a relay with some fried relay points on it, which would show a high resistance. A test light wouldn't necessarily pick that problem up, but a digital voltmeter would show a slightly lower voltage. We may find that a test light is all you need, but if you don't have either right now and have to buy one, get a digital voltmeter.

    Coming off of the battery, there is a fusible link box with 3 fusible links in it. If you stand at the front middle of the car in front of the radiator, and put your hand out at 2oclock pointing at the driver side front strut tower, and then lower your hand down you'd be approximately pointing at it. You need to check that they aren't blown, and that you have 13 volts on both sides of each fuselink.
    1.) 40Amp Main, this also powers the headlight relays, so if your headlights are working at full brightness, this fuselink is probably good.
    2.) 80Amp Alternator, this is connected to the alternator but also the tail lights and stop lights. Check to see if your stop lights are working as an indicator as to whether the fuselink is good.
    3.) 30Amp AM2, which is what supplies power to the ignition switch.

    Let me know what you find, and we'll go from there.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Did you replace the 'other thing' that the mechanic indicated as well, or just the distriubtor?

    The problem you indicate could have many things causing the problem, and you really don't want to be just throwing parts at it in the hope that something fixes it. Could be fuel and fuel distribution, could be electrical, could be compression related. However, there are some basic maintenance items, that if they are the end of their normal published useful life, should be checked and replaced.

    How old (and miles) are on the plugs, and did you replace the spark plug wires when you did the distributor? If you pull the 4 plugs now and look at them, do they indicate proper combustion or is one different looking than the others? (keep track of which plug comes from which cylinder).

    Did this start after a specific fuel fill up? Could be bad gas.

    Are you burning any oil or water (black, blue, or white) out of the exhaust? Are you loosing any radiator coolant? or oil?

    You may want to consider taking it back to that 'really good mechanic', and let him fix it.
  • kiawah,
    40amp main tested at 12.2 volts
    80amp alt. no tailights or brake lights
    30amp am2 tested 0.0 the fuse looked good.
    Once again, thanks for taking the time to help the mechanically challenged.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Your 12.2volts is slightly low coming from the battery, but could be because your battery is discharged. The bigger problem is that you don't have voltage on the two fuse links.

    Disconnect your battery, and take apart the fuse links to figure out what is wrong/blown. You need 13volts on all three of those.
  • mcpete89mcpete89 Posts: 2
    I just bought a 1999 Camry w/o child protection locks. Today my child (3 yrs old), unlocked the door and opened it as I drove down the road. I need something to cover the locks, or disable them from being opened to easily.

    Any suggestions on how to prevent this? After market or oem products?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Rear doors have a child lock on them, see your owners manual page 13.

    Open the door, flip the switch on the door end.
  • rantainrantain Posts: 2
    Hi

    I have a 2003 Toyota Camry LE. The light for the A/C and temperature control panel in the dashboard has gone out. The buttons have light but the panel itself doesn't. I took the panel out and can see two light bulbs but can't figure out how to remove them. Are there any schematics available?

    Here is a picture of the part on eBay. It's the lights around each of the buttons.

    http://www.pamsauto.com/flashdata/picture.aspx?t=e&sn=H014&id=64964&h=768&w=1024- &n=1

    Thanks.
  • mcpete89mcpete89 Posts: 2
    AWESOME!!!

    I feel so much better...thank you!! :-)
  • matman1matman1 Posts: 2
    I would love to let the machanic fix it, just wouldn't be able to pay him...

    No smoke, not the gas, small exhaust leek, i thought that it might be a wierd vacume deal, can't remember what that other thing was to replace. Maybe an igniter???
    I'll see if i have one of those electrical things to test that stuff and i'll get back to you... Thanks, Matt
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    An ignition coil?

    How many miles are on this vehicle, and the plugs? How old are the ignition wires?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Paul,

    I already replied to your other posting in older camry maintenance. Pls verify whether your tail lights are working, or not.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    hmmm.....let me go back to the schematics.

    Let me summarize what I think you said.

    - tail lights are working
    - moon roof is not working
    - power windows are not working
    - air conditioner is not working

    - how do you know that the defoggers are not working?

    Do your wipers and radio work?
  • pawleeppawleep Posts: 6
    thanx
    was 10 amp gauge/backup light fuse
    paul
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