Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions



  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Look behind the dash, by your left knee. Check behind the tray. I thought you had said you checked the cigarette fuse and it was fine. I think your owners manual will have a picture and how to get at the fuses, if my memory holds correct.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The fuse for the rear backup lights, is the 10 Amp fuse marked Gauge.

    If the fuse checks out okay, then I would suspect the reverse switch, which is up in the engine compartment on the transmission.
  • I can not figure out how to change the bulbs in 1996 Toyota Camry tail light is out, Please help!!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Sylvia, I answered it over in the other QA area.

    It's a 15A fuse, labelled Cig Rad, in fuse slot #8, on the backside of the junction block#1. Look behind the ashtray by your left knee to find junction block#1.
  • SylviaSylvia Posts: 1,636
    Thanks! And look... you earned points for answering the question there ;-)
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    If you have the owner's manual, it will tell you (toward the back). Otherwise, you'll have to remove the trim inside the trunk to access the bulbs. There should be a kind of "trap door" for the outer bulbs (the ones not mounted on the trunk). Remove the door or trim, then twist the appropriate bulb socket one quarter turn counterclockwise, then pull straight out.

    Then to remove the bulb itself, either twist slightly counterclockwise while pressing inward on the bulb, then pull straight out OR just pull straight out (I'm not sure what kind of socket the '96 model uses). Installation is the reverse. Try not to touch the new bulb with your bare hands -- use a cloth or tissue.
  • regorego Posts: 3
    Thanks Kiawah.

    I finally found a sheet metal screw behind a small plastic lid below and right to the steering wheel. It worked fine.
  • 03 Camry...While rewinding tape, suddenly system "froze". word "tape" shows on screen. No buttons work, not even on/off switch. System remains "on" even with engine turned off, dial remains lit showing "tape".
    Went to dealer who had no time to diagnose but removed and replaced SAME fuse and everything worked normally once again.
    Later tonight, I was fast forwarding and exact same thing has happened. I have not removed fuse.
    Any ideas? Is it electrical? Is it the unit? Should I take it to the dealer? Should I take it to a radio shop?
    Appreciate any advice, Thanks
  • krrusskrruss Posts: 1
    The right rear electric window went out on my 2006 Camry CE. I was going to try the obvious things like checking the fuse. Unfortunately, I can't make sense out of what the owners manual indicates for fuses. To make sure I had the right fuse, I pulled the fuse that said it was for the window on the left door. With the fuse out, that window still operates. I realize this is unrelated to my original problem, but it is hard to troubleshoot when you can't rely on the information you have. Anybody have a vowel I can buy?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    There's actually 3 fuses which feed different parts of the power window circuitry.

    - 30 Amp Power#1
    - 10 Amp ECU-B
    - 10 Amp ECU-IG

    Check your email. Go to Mailbox tab in the grey bar upper right corner.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    I know from removing it that the first fuse you listed (30 amp Power #1) controls all 4 windows plus the moonroof (if equipped). I had to do this to "initialize" the moonroof in my 2004 Camry (easier than disconnecting the battery).
  • I have a 2002 Toyota Camry and the interior lights don't work. The overhead light, the door lights do not work. I checked most of the fuses and they were good. Is there anything else to check ? The overhead light bulb is good so it is not the bulb. Help please.......
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,413
    Must be the switch in the door/door jamb. If you can pry it out you can pull off the two wires and touch them together and see if the lights then work. That would by-pass the switch.

    How did you test the fuse and the bulb? Visually is not good enough. You should use an ohm meter to test for continuity through the fuse or through the bulb.


  • rvilesrviles Posts: 1
    I have read all the previous posts regarding this particular problem. However, I believe mine is a bit more unique. I have replaced the fuse, and as soon as I turn the ignition switch to accessory, or on, I can watch the pink 30A fuse glow red, and then fail. Takes about 2 seconds. Further research, shows approx 12 volts on the 3 volt fuse when power is applied. I feel there is a short in the system, or a window that is stuck in the up position, but not sure how to begin troubleshooting the issue without taking off all the door panels and disconnecting the window motors on all 4 doors.

    Any ideas? :sick:
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Which 30Amp fuse are you blowing, AM2?

    If so, then AM2 feeds the keyswitch, and then feeds 2 downstream fused circuits:
    - a 5 amp fuse for ignition coils
    - a 5 amp fuse for starting circuit, feeds first a clutch switch, then starter relay, then starter primary.

    If this AM2 fuse is blowing immediately, try pulling the two downstream 5 amp fuses (they are in the circuit AFTER the ignition switch). If it still immediately blows (which undoubtedly it will since the fuses downstream are only 5 amp each and would have blown), your ignition key switch is probably bad.
  • i recently replaced my battery, but my car still won't start. i'm sure it was a battery issue because the car started when my last battery was jumped. i think the factory alarm/ignition kill is preventing the car from starting--the horn sounds when i open the door, the alarm light is on, and i hear the alarm clicking. i don't have the remote and i haven't figured out how to bypass the alarm. would taking the alarm fuse out bypass the system? if so, where is the fuse for the alarm? any ideas would be appreciated.
  • rsd61rsd61 Posts: 1
    I need too require help identifying fuses however for the Rear Driving/Running Lights and Interrior Dome & Dash Lights Only. All forward lights, Backup and Rear Directionals all work but NOT the Rear Driving/Running nor Dash & Dome Lights.
    She has no Owners Manual for mt to look at. Does anyone know where to find a wiring schematic of the lights / fusebox? I have been told that there is a "Modular" that could be the issue. Where / what - I don't know. All the fuses look good.
    Please post reply here and email me directly @ and I'll post findings/results here for all.
    Thanks Again :confuse:
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    - The dome light is fused with a 7.5A fuse called 'dome', which is up in the engine compartment junction block#2, on the inside of the left front wheel well. The dome fuse is in the lower left quadrant of the block.
    - The rear taillight problem could be either the taillight relay, or the 10A fuse called 'tail'. The fuse is on one side of the junction block by your left knee behind the ashtray, the relay is on the backside of that block. There is a row of three relays going across the middle of the block, and the tail relay is the one on the far right while looking at the relays. Can you verify that your license plate light is also not working...thanks

    Good luck.
  • Hello! Both turning signals and the emergency lights quit working on my 01 Camry. We checked the fuses and bulbs and both are good. I was told I need to replace the relay flasher. Can anyone tell me where that is located? And is it complicated to replace?
    Thanks! Any advise you can offer is greatly appreciated.
Sign In or Register to comment.