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Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions



  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    If you are saying that your symptoms are:
    - the front parking lights DON'T work
    - the rear parking lights and the license plate DOES work.....

    then your problem has to be either your front bulbs are burnt out or the wiring to the bulb has a problem. They are all fed from the same circuit, and there is no fuse that feeds the front parking lights separately.

    Pull the front bulbs, check for a bad filament and or connection in the socket, use a ohmmeter if you need to verify that the bulb is good or bad, and a voltmeter if necessary to check that you have voltage in the socket.
  • thank you! we will check that in the morning after it stops snowing...thanks again
  • teddawteddaw Posts: 6
    1999 Camry V6
    Both reverse lights do not light.
    Both tail running lights do not light.
    License plate illumination does not light.

    The dash "tail light out" indicator lamp is OFF when the headlight switch is off, and ON when the switch is ON(both parking and headlight on) and also ON when the auto headlight sensor turns on the headlights.

    I have checked the following fuses which were good:
    TAIL (Instrument Panel JB#1)
    GAUGE (Instrument Panel JB#1)

    I have visually inspected the harnessing in the trunk (where the high stress area would be) as well as the harnessing to the light failure sensor and didn't see anything that got my attention.

    Additionally, the first time I noticed any of this was when the check engine light came on with code P1780 (Park/Neutral Position Switch Malfunction ) and was accompanied by the reverse indicator on the dash being illuminated at the same time as the drive indicator light (or park etc). The check engine light went off on its own and has not come back on since, and the transmission dash indicators are working correctly again as well.

    Last but not least, this car has an addon remote start and keyless entry. Dont know if thats playing a role.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Do your brake lights work, or not?
  • teddawteddaw Posts: 6
    The brake lights work fine. Just pulled two of the relays... trying to check them now! Pulled and checked two relays on the back of the Instrument Panel J/B (the one on the passenger side as well as the middle relay-- Part #s VFM-11F41-ZO5) and with 12V on the coils the contacts closed.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    It appears you've got a couple different problems, which is making me wonder what the common thread might be.

    The simplest of the circuits is the backup lights, and I think we should start there to figure this out. The power to this circuit comes from the ignition switch, thru the 10A gauge fuse (which I believe is good because that gauge fuse also feeds the indicator light that is telling you that your tail lights are out), thru the backup switch, and then to the 2 backup lights to ground. Can you get a digital voltmeter, and meter the voltage on the 10A gauge fuse, to verify that it is sitting at 13-14 volts. If that is good as I suspect it is, then measure the voltage on the backup switch. If you have voltage on both legs of that switch, then go to the backup lights and verify that you have voltage on power feed to the backup lights.

    I had initially suspected the taillight relay for the plate lights (which still might be involved as another problem), but let's figure out the simpler backup light circuit first.

    If you are able to check relays, then check the tail relay. There are three relays in a row on the otherside of the junction block where the tail fuse is, which I think you've found. If you are looking at the block staring at the relay side, the right hand one is the tailrelay. It's by a small yellow connector, and the tailrelay has a different connector plug immediately above it. This tailrelay isn't related to the backup light problem, I only offer it now since you are already checking relays.
  • teddawteddaw Posts: 6
    Kiawah.. thanks so much for your time!

    All three relays have now been checked (on a bench) and seem to be functioning properly. I also checked Gauge with the ignition on and there was battery voltage on both sides of the fuse. Can you give me a bit more info as to where the backup switch is? Whats the easiest way to access it?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Don't know whether you have an automatic or manual transmission, but the switch is on the transmission. WIth the hood open, stand in the middle of the car facing the engine, hold out your right hand, and drop it down toward the transmission. That's the area the switch is in, which detects when the transmission is in Reverse.
  • teddawteddaw Posts: 6
    I have the automatic.. I have found the park/neutral position switch... and what I think is the vehicle speed sensor. But no joy on the other switch. Its getting dark and my lighting is awful. I think I'll knock off and try some more tomorrow!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    That's the switch, it will be closed when the gearshift is in Reverse. Check the voltage on the pins. One pin should be hot (14V) when the ignition is ON, the other side should be hot only when transmission is also in reverse (while the ignition is in ON position). Shorting the switch pins should give voltage to the rear lights, and they should light up.
  • rocker8rocker8 Posts: 1
    Thanks in advance for your great forum. My wifes Camry has an electrical problem. While driving, the dash lights for alternator, lights, and brake came on. The battery went dead that night. I tried charging it and noticed the charger on full charge, and never letting up as the battery was charging. I noticed while troubleshooting that if I pulled the under hood "charge" fuse, the warning lights went out when the engine was running.Seems like a direct short somewhere. Could it be the voltage regulator ? Also noticed if I disconnect the battery cables, the battery charges normally. Any ideas ? Thanks !
  • jefarljefarl Posts: 2
    My daytime running lights do not shut off when I shut off the engine and remain in the car for a while. The sometimes they don't shut off even after I open the drivers door and leave the car.

    anyone else have this problem or has Honda indicated what is wrong. Yesterday my battery drained because the lights never shut off after i left the car.

    2000 Camry
  • i changed the battery on my 95 camry v-6, but i can't get the car to start. i think the factory alarm is cutting off the ignition and i don't know how to get around the alarm/ignition kill. i don't have the alarm fob anymore, so i don't know what to do. any suggestions would really be appreciated. thanks!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Sounds like something is draining the battery down, could be a number of things.

    I'd start first with the most likely, the alternator may have a blown diode. Assuming you can charge up your battery by disconnecting the cables as mentioned, drive on over to an autoparts chain, and have them do a battery and alternator test. They can do it on the car, which tests whether your battery is good, but also will test your alternator output under a load. This will tell you whether all of your diodes are good, and it is putting out the rated current. This is usually a free service they'll do. I'm suspecting that they'll find a bad alternator.

    Come on back and let us know the results. If that didn't fix it, we'll take the next steps....but it's good to start with a known good basic power status...a good battery and alternator.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666

    You should post your year, make, model of vehicle. Your bug will be a vehicle specific bug depending upon electrical schematics. Without having Honda schematics myself, if it was mine.... I'd be checking the DRL relays.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666

    Check to make sure your 30Amp AM2 fuse is good.

    That fuse is located in the engine compartment, in junction block #2, on the inside of the front left fender/wheel well area.
  • I have a 1996 Camry that I bought for my daughter and everything on the car works except for the windshield washer delivery system. I thought of checking the fuses first but cannot identify where to look or what fuse may activate the unit. I do not hear any noise from the washer motor....but it just may not be getting power to operate. Any help would be greatly apprecuiate.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    You could test this with a simple 12V test light. The washer motor is probably attached to the bottom of the windshield fluid plastic tank. Remove the connector, have someone work the wash switch, and see if the light lights in any of the holes you plug it into. Naturally the wire side of the light must be grounded to metal or the negative pole of the battery. If you get a light, then the motor is no good. If you don't get a light, go to the fuse panel and look for a burned fuse. They should be marked. If all the fuses are good, one would have to suspect the wash switch.


  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    There is a 20A Wiper fuse, which feeds your wiper/washer switch (w/combo wiper relay), which then feeds the wiper motor and washer motor. If either of those work, then you know your fuse is fine............and the problem is either the switch or the motor.

    As Shifty suggests, a digital voltmeter or test light at the washer motor will determine whether it is getting power but the motor isn't turning (washer motor bad).....or there is no power there (defective switch).
  • teddawteddaw Posts: 6
    Kiawah... sorry for the delay. Spring break called!
    OK so I have verified that when the car is in reverse the pin on the junction box below the steering column goes from 0V to 13V properly. I have also checked some of the pins for various taillights and those too turn on when the headlights are turned on. So i think I have an actual problem with the harnessing. I cant get continuity thru the harnessing on the trunk lid to ground or any of the other wires. Do you happen to know where I could get a wiring diagram as the main harness that runs from the JB on the left side of the passenger seat has 20+ wires in it. Im trying to ring out each wire but there are some duplicate colors. -Teddaw
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