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Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions

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  • icehengeicehenge Posts: 9
    When I changed the thermostat on my 98 camry I removed the electrical plug from the compressor. When I tried the A/C the light flashed, then I realized the plug wasn't inserted all the way.

    Doubt thats your problem but its worth a shot to see if the electrical connection is secure at the compressor.
  • 99 Camry--Rear passenger window won't go up.....installed new regulator and driver door switches........still won't go up but all other windows and locks work......Is there a fuse somewhere that I can check.......Silly, but I didn't get a manual with this car....(yes, I know..I'll get one on E-bay) But for now I need suggestions...Thanks
  • Hi, I'm new to this forum and website. And I'm not going to start off well, because I have a problem!! I have a 1996 Toyota Camry station wagon, and yesterday when I got in the car, the clock, the radio, and the overhead dome light didn't work. I wouldn't have cared as much if I wasn't driving 4 hours home from Maine, but I figured it was a fuse, and I'd just change it at home. I got the new fuse for it, but as soon as I put the new fuse in, that fuse blew too. So the guy at the autoparts store said that I probably had an electrical shortage that had something to do with THAT fuse in the fusebox. I know I can't really get off complaining because those are the only three things in the car that I don't really need, but I'd still like to fix this. Any ideas as to whether or not I can do this myself and how? Or, how much do you think it would cost in the shop? Has this happened to anyone? Also, when we opened up the fusebox in the engine compartment, the dome/clock/radio were all using a 25 mini fuse, when it relaly called for a 20 mini fuse. Could that be related?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,780
    If you have a short, it wouldn't matter if you used a 100 amp fuse, they'd all probably blow.

    dome lights are notorious for short circuits...but...since a "short" circuit means that a wire is grounding "short of" the destination, you'd have to trace the wire all the way from the fuse box to the dome light.

    You might start by looking at the switch in the door that works the dome light...remove that switch and tape it up so that the wires can't touch anything. Let the switch dangle in outer space and put in a new fuse.

    If that doesn't work, drop the dome light out of the headliner and do the same thing. Make sure no wires are touching and just let the dome light dangle up there---if either of those cures the problem you know the short was either at the door switch or the dome light area.

    The radio rarely causes such a hard short like this unless it was one of those home-grown installations done with tape and wires twisted together. You might look under there and see if you see a lot of homemade wiring. Factory wiring is neat and tidy.

    As for the clock, that might be hard to pop out of the dash to check.

    Last area would be BEHIND the fuse box, where you'd have to unscrew the entire fuse box and inspect behind it, in the area of the fuse that is blowing.

    Always exercise caution when fooling with wiring. I always like to have someone nearby who has loosed the positive battery cable so that it's just a slip fit on the battery. If something starts to smoke, you yell and they yank.

    MODERATOR

  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    "...I always like to have someone nearby who has loosed the positive battery cable so that it's just a slip fit on the battery..."

    Unless Toyota is different from everyone else selling cars in North America, that's wrong. Whenever disconnecting an automobile battery in most production cars over the last 50 years, always pull the negative (-) battery cable from its terminal first. Pulling the positive (+) cable first is apt to spark, with the potential to set off a hydrogen gas explosion at the battery and send pieces and hot sulfuric acid flying in all directions. (The acid and battery shrapnel aren't at all conducive to continued eyeball function, but they can sure be a dandy motive for learning Braille...;))
  • where abouts in the door is the dome switch?
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    shortage is something experienced when there's too little of something.

    you mean electrical "short" or short-circuit.

    i agree with most of what shifty wrote. except me personally, i would have the negative leg of the battery loose and the one to be disconnected by a bystander.

    think about replacing a battery: the very first terminal to pull is the negative. why?

    two-fold
    1). If you are using a metal tool without insulated grips on the positive terminal first (i.e. with the negative strap still attached), you are creating a closed circuit with your body if another part of your body is in touch with the metal body of the vehicle. it's not voltage necessarily that can defib the heart, but current, and chances are the path you've created passes in close proximity to the heart. if the current draw is just right, i think you can have an interesting experience.

    2). if you have a battery which is de-gassing, shorting the positive with the negative (say the tool slips and touches part of the frame) will cause a nice short almost directly, but in close proximity to the battery. there's likely to be sparking, and where there's spark and degassing... possibility of explosion.

    (2) is one of the reasons why when you jump a car, you connect positive battery terminals first, and then one leg of the negative jumper cable to the good battery, and the other end of the negative jumper cable (i think i have this correct) to some exposed piece of metal on the car your trying to jump far enough away from the battery that any sparking will be unlikely to cause a problem if there is degassing.

    now some may say, but wait when I'm replacing an old battery with a new one, and i install the positive first, then the negative, if i'm physically in contact with the negative at the time i am also touching the body of the car, won't there be current flow? i think the answer to this is yes and no. yes there will be current flow, but more current will flow through the path of least resistance, that being the terminal of the battery and cable clamp, and not through the vehicle body, your body, to the cable clamp.

    shifty - did i get this one correct?

    one edmunds tee-shirt extra large pleese. ;)

    ok, just exercise caution with the battery.
  • Shortage actually works in this sense if you think about it, because there is a shortage of electricity getting to the things I need the electricity to get to. Ie: there is none.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    when you have a short with very little resistance, you have maximal current flow. Voltage = Current * Resistance. The volts across the battery is 12, so as resistance decreases, current increases.

    this is why a fuse rated for a given current blows.

    so - you're in a situation of excess and shortage at the same time i guess. ;)

    agreed, the current is flowing in the circuit which has the short, and not as much (relative) in the circuits that are well behaved.

    shify's idea to pull the over-head dome assembly is a good one. if you have a custom, non-OEM radio/amp, I'd start there myself.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I had a short once in an old vette, found in the wiring harness the flexed between the car and the drivers door everytime it was opened. Years of opening or closing caused the failure.

    Personally however with your limited symptoms, I'd look at the dome light first (easiest), unless someone messed with the factory radio.

    You may want to look at the electrical schematics for that year/car (see the 'other' web site), to make sure there aren't items on that circuit that you don't realize aren't working (like a lighter).
  • ryan99ryan99 Posts: 46
    My front passenger window in my 99 Camry will go down but has a hell of a time coming back up....I see I can get a motor pretty cheap on ebey and I am reasonably handy with cars....has anybody done this on a 99 Camry before? if so how did it go? thanks again
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,780
    RE: Short circuit:

    Maybe I'm trying to outsmart myself here.

    My reasoning was not to take OFF the positive cable, just to loosen it a bit so you COULD yank it off.

    Now why the positive? Well, yes, conventional wisdom says to take off the negative and this is probably good advice. But you know, either one works in an emergency. Maybe BOTH should be loosened, to give the stand-by person TWO changes to interrupt an electrical fire.

    My understand of "short" is that the current falls "short" of the target, that is, it completes a circuit well before the circuit that was supposed to be completed. After all, the dome light is the end of the line, so a live wire touching ground before the dome light has completed a "short circuit" back to the battery.

    I really don't believe the term is related to "short" as in "lesser amount". It's "short" as in distance, not volume.

    ANYWAY-- I'm always nervous about giving electrical advice out to anyone without supervision, but if they use common sense and have a back-up plan (like two people working on it), they should be okay.

    Nigel Shiftright once told me, with singed finger pointed in the air: "Destruction happens at ten times the rate of construction".

    MODERATOR

  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    if the yanking is done without contact to the body of the vehicle and the terminal (i.e. someone grabs the insulation), which wire you pull is gonna be immaterial to the interruption of power.

    but, you'll have to re-attach that positive at some point won't you? then you'll have the issue with possible shock.

    short: well that is essentially a path to ground with little intermediate resistance. what is the resistance of a length of wire? there is a formula, but for most wire used in a car, it is pretty negligable.

    where there is small resistance, more current must flow, hence a fuse rated for X amps will blow when sinking more than X amps. remember volts = current * resistance.

    a fuse in a car, or in a house is rated such that it is the weakest point in the circuit, right? you want the fuse to blow when it senses too much current flowing. the heating which will result will cause the fuse to fail.

    if the fuse were rated larger than the current carrying capability of the wire, or metal conducting parts in the destination device, guess where the heating is going to occur and where the circuit will open.

    you never want to "over-amp" a fuse or a circuit breaker in your home for the given wiring. you want the fuse or ckt bkr to trip and protect the wiring and the device.

    in a car: no vehicle fires please.

    as to fall's short of the target, in general this statement is true, however the target (like the overhead dome light) can be the target. i understand what you are saying, the real target is the bulb in the overhead dome light. no argument there.

    as far as loosening both clamps... i'm not going to give you advice shifty. you're the auto guy. me though? i wouldn't do it to either terminal. i mean to say there is a time to remove the negative and work on a circuit, and there is a time to re-connect... but to leave loose? nope. i can't see the advantage, and only see a disadvantage. let's say you got a current drain and you are tracking it down, and lets say you leave 1 or 2 loose clamps. guess where there is going to be resistive heating (happens where the amount of conductor / contact is smallest)? just like the sizing of the fuse (generally set by thickness of fuse material). guess also where there is gonna be potential arcing?

    if you have a battery out-gassing...

    well. maybe *i'm* over analyzing the problem now.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,780
    This discussion inspires me to install a battery shut off device!

    MODERATOR

  • rfp1rfp1 Posts: 4
    After skimming all messages, haven't seen anyone with this problem.

    I live in mid-atlantic area, very hot the past week.
    I went out to my car after work, about 95 - 100 degrees.

    The car started, but would not come out of park. AC, power windows, turn signals, did not work. Brake light, tire pressure light, and ABS light, were all on. I called dealership and they told me about the button to push to get it out of park. I drove the car to the dealership, probably about 120 degrees inside, 50 minute drive.

    Left it there overnight, same symptoms in the morning. They hooked it up to diagnostic machine, and everything started working properly, without doing anything. They kept the car for another day, did not happen again. So they have no idea what happened.

    My theory is computer/heat/short circuit problem.

    I called that Toyota number and they assigned me a reference #.
  • rfp1rfp1 Posts: 4
    wonderful..................not.

    Picked up car this evening, drove home. My wife went to take the car out, exact same problem.............
  • rfp1rfp1 Posts: 4
    The dealership had my car for almost 2 weeks, they replaced the body computer......so far so good, have had the car back 2 days.....no problems.....yet.............the dealership was very very accomodating, nothing but good things to say about them..........Jim Coleman in Bethesda, MD.
  • satzx1satzx1 Posts: 1
    I have 2002 camry le, bot the abs and brake warning lights are on. In what instance both the lights comes on, hoping that its not an abs problem, which is very expensive to fix. The fluids are at the max level and I have been running the car for the past month without any problem.

    Please advise..I appreciate your help in advance..
  • On the ABS, it could be the sensor that senses the movement of you wheel. If it cannot sense that the light will come on because it won't know when your wheels lock and it needs to kick in. I would get it checked out before is starts raining/snowing.
    As for the brake, if you mean the parking break light, it could be a simple thightening of your parking break. It be a definite if you have to pull you parking break really hard/high to get it to engage.
  • penizzlepenizzle Posts: 104
    If those items dont fix it, you can get the abs controler scanned at your dealer and they will tell you what is wrong.
  • Hi all. I am reasonably handy with cars but this ones got me stumped. a couple months ago as I posted here I started my 99 camry with 130k and auto tranny, put it in reverse and the chk engine light came on and the reverse lights would not go off as well as the dash only reading that the car is in R no matter what gear I am in....that went away on the way to the mechanic of course. This morning all the gauges stopped working as well as the power windows when the car was shifted. I looked at it and found a blown 10A gauge cluster fuse blown. replaced it and it blew as soon as I shifted into reverse. I disconnected the Brake light switch at the pedal, replaced the fuse and overode the shift lockout and put it into gear without incident...any suggestions? by the way my reverse lights do not work....Ryan
  • I have a 1998 Camry and all the windows in the car won't work and they all are down so I have to put a tarp over the whole car everyday. Now I took it to a dealer and he said he thought maybe the wires on the door might be split. So I checked them and two of them were split, so I spliced the wires but still I can't wind the windows up. I also checked all the fuses and they are ok. If anyone can help me out I would appreciate it. Also if anyone knows the electrical scheme for this make and model I would appreciate that too. Im thinking it had to do with those wires that were split somehow but I dont know what I am missing. I can use any info you may have.
  • How can one replace the dashboard instrument panel light bulbs? This is for a 2000 Camry LE. Dealer said they'd charge $175.
  • I have a 1998 camry and the rear passenger side window will go down, but in order for it to go up, you need to put it up with the switch on the drivers door. This is SUPER ANNOYING, and i would like to know if anyone has any ideas on how to fix it. thanks
  • For some reason the digital clock no longer shows on the dashboard of my 2001 Camry I checked the fuse box under the hood and didn't see a designated fuse for the clock.Is there any other fuse box location that might have the fuse for the clock?
  • I just figured this out with my own car. The fuse for the digital clock is behind the little pop-out storage drawer to the left of the steering wheel. There is a map of the fuses on the back of the drawer. The 15 amp fuse that is labeled Cig is the one that also goes to the clock.
  • hi this is my 1st time on this forum .I think this is great stuff. im a mechanic in all areas i'm trying to find out if anybody has ever experianced a headlight problem in these early camry's .The problem is that when i turn on the headlights only the marker and taillights come on.I dont have a signal power to the relay only one terminal of the relay is hot . its at least a 10ga wire so im pretty sure thats the supply power im thinking my problem may be in the headlight switch located on the steering column wich is also the turnsignal switch as it stands now im having to put a jumper wire across the relay socket terminals . iwas going to put a toggle swich temporarily thats just not the way o fix it i'd just like to get to the source of the issue.i could really earn some browny points with the little woman if i could fix this with the quickness.you know what they say "the mechanics car is the last to get worked on " and besides that i'm running out of butt for the wife to chew on cus she's been chewin for a while now .
  • Hi, I have a 2001 camry which blowes the cig, clock fuse when i step on the breaks the rear light failure light censor comes on at this point on the dash. when I replaced the 15A fuse ( hidden behind the change dish) The clock and cig start to work again but when as soon i step on the breaks it blowes my cig,clock & mirrior 15a fuse again plus the the light failure censor comes back on. I measured the Ohms of the break lights and one of them reads 15.0 the other 3.5 could this create a amperage surge to the cig,clock and mirror 15A fuse.... Does this make sence since the breaklights are on a diffrent fuse ? Could my problem be the break light switch.... Thanks in advance for any help.....
  • I figured it out.....My 4 year old stuck a dime in the cig lighter socket it fits perfect and fluch to the back....this is why i kept blowing fuses on the cig,mirror and clock. The rear light failure was not in the tail lights but rather in the light just below the back glass called the upper brake light signal....thanks to this website i atleast was able to start trouble shooting and fix it w/o being banged out at the dealer for a short circuit inwhich in ny they can say it took them ????? amount of hours...boy im happy...:)
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Heh, glad you got it figured out! Four year olds - gotta love 'em!! ;)
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