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Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions

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  • I have had my 2009 TCH for about 6 weeks and have been tracking the gas consumption carefully. The web site (Canadian) says I should get 50 MPG city, combined and highway driving. After 6800 KM (4225MI) I am getting only 40 MPG. I know that the info on the web site is an "estimate" but it shouldn't be 20% out. I don't drive with a heavy foot, in fact I try to get that little "excellent" message every time I shut the car off.
    Has anyone experienced poor gas milage like this??? :cry:
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    ~40 is the best you should expect for pure city driving using regen energy recovery. You should consider yourself luck with FE that good for combined city/hwy.
  • rxersrxers Posts: 9
    I got a 1997 Camry and the lights just cut out on me. When I say light the brake (when stepping on them) and the headlights are working. The front corner lights are not coming on and the tail lights are not coming on when I step on the brakes. However, the harzards are working. Must be a fuse, but can't figure out which one (first the under my left foot or the one under the hood) and then which one to replace???

    THanks!
  • So was the problem the relay if one headlight works? I am dealing with the same issue right headlight is out , I think the relay is good?
  • greetings,
    i have been reading through this thread and gotten some good ideas for what to check to solve my problem, however, so far i've not found the solution.

    1997 Camry LE (2.2L automatic, no factory "theft deterrent system", but there is an aftermarket alarm system from previous owner).
    - the dome light has been intermittent for several years, though i have "fixed" it several times by popping the bulb out and putting it back in, i now realize that something more is happening with that circuit. the trunk light and key "ring light" also don't work.
    additionally, yesterday after checking fuses and pulling the dome light fixture out to see if there was immediately obvious wiring or grounding problem, the power door locks stopped working *unless the key is in ACC or ON position*
    - the power leg of the 7.5A Dome fuse reads good voltage (and the fuse is good)
    - the dome light is not receiving voltage
    - the power windows DO work normally
    - i have checked the 25A Door, 10A Gauge, and 30A Power fuses - all OK and good voltage on power legs (though i'll probably check them again as soon as it stops raining).

    at this point i'm starting to look at the relay integration module, but i also think i haven't exhausted other troubleshooting avenues. even with the Haynes manual's schematic, i can't really get a clear picture of how everything fits together.
    suggestions welcome - thanks!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I think you are on the right path.

    The dome fuse feeds the integration relay, which then provides power up to the dome light itself. Your symptoms would suggest a problem w/integration relay.

    Your key cylinder light does not work, that is also fed from the same point on the integration relay. Symptom points to problem w/integration relay.

    The door locks, have as part of their control circuitry....you guessed it, the integration relay.

    Luggage compartment light....you guessed it.
  • thanks for the input kiawah.
    a happy ending for this story, yet one with a few twists and turns - unnecessary twists as it turns out.
    i did replace the relay integration module (after fetching one from a junkyard and learning the slow way precisely how there are not only 2 little plastic latches that hold it on, but also a hefty socket of connections on the back that doesn't like to let go without substantial persuasion!), but nothing changed.
    decided to re-recheck all the fuses that may have anything to do with the problem. after studying the funky diagram on the back of the engine compartment fuse/relay lid, i realized that i had been looking at the wrong fuse! at some point in the past, a 7.5A fuse had been put where a 5A should have been, and a 10A was in the Dome slot. i didn't pay close enough attention to the diagram and therefore was 1 column off, i just looked for the 7.5A fuse.
    this is just the kind of lesson that i like to learn every few years. sheesh!

    i'm including some pictures here for the benefit of anyone who is going to mess with their integration relay and the following bit of parts info that i learned in my search:
    - Camry (models without theft deterrent) integration relay module is interchangable from 1997 - 2000
    - part number is 82641-AA010 or 82641-AA020 (both work, AA020 is the updated number, according to Toyota parts - and at the time of writing this, there are 0 (as in none) AA020s available in the USA!). see photo for part number detail.

    front of integration relay:
    image

    back of integration relay (note the socket near the top, this means the module has to be carefully pryed off):
    image

    part number detail:
    image
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    ughh,

    Somebody switched the fuses...ouch.

    Ebay The integration relay, or someone will come along this site and need to buy one at some point. They do fail, and are not the easiest to find.
  • right, eBay is what i was thinking as well.
    meanwhile, i had to see what was inside the mysterious relay integration module. here is what i found:

    interior electronics of Camry relay integration module (AA010):
    image
  • I seem to have exactly the same problem that you did...dome light, automatic locks, etc. Which fuse did you end up replacing and where did you find it? Many thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    What year Camry do you have? It can be different, depending on the year.
  • I replaced the before cat O2 sensor in my son's avalon with a universal. It within a month started giving him engine error codes. I decided to replace it with the correct OEM part and 3 years without any trouble. I gues the universal O2 senor is just enough different that the computer has difficulty with it. Hope this helps.
  • My tail light, instrument panel, parking lights are not working. I checked in the owner's manual and the one fuse related to my problem is called Tail the 15A. I checked it and is not blown. I checked all of them and not one is blown and still is not working. The car is a toyota camry 1994. If anyone have an idea what can it be the problem please post an answer. thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,618
    Well first off I'd replace that fuse regardless of how it looks.

    My second guess would be the multi-function lighting switch on the steering column.

    MODERATOR

  • Thanks for answering so fast. I replace it with a new one, but it still not working. what is the multi-function lighting switch and where should i find it? what is the steering column and where it is?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,618
    That's the switch you use to turn on the headlights, work the directions, etc. As to where to find it---I'd just google it and see what comes up, also try eBay, and the dealer.

    MODERATOR

  • hondo17,
    the fuse for the dome light is under the hood, in the fuse block next to the battery (at least in my 1997 Camry). there are a few clips that release the long, black plastic lid of the fuse block and there is a diagram of the fuses on the underside of the lid.

    i took a quick picture showing the dome fuse:
    image
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check your 10A Gauge fuse.

    If that is good, and you've already checked the 15A Tail fuse, then I would suspect the Taillight Relay. The way it works is that the taillight relay is turned on, by the integration relay. When the taillight relay is engaged, it provides power to the 15A tail fuse. You need to make sure that relay is turning on, and the secondary points have connected providing power to the 15A tail fuse. One easy way to check, is to pull the 15A tail fuse, and with the light switch on, with a digital voltmeter you should find 13.5 +/- volts on 'one' of the legs in the socket where the tail fuse was.

    Lightswitch turns on the integration relay, integration relay turns on the taillight relay, the taillight relay provides power to the tail fuse. The tail fuse provides power to the dash lights, tail lights, etc.
  • I feel your pain, I spent close to $500 to have a remote start put in my 2009 Venza by the Toyota dealer. It works some time but the range is only 80 feet. A total waste of money. I had a unit installed on my 2003 Chrysler Town & Country Limited and it had a range of 400 feet. It was installed by an accessory company in my home town and only cost $219.00 and worked great when I traded the van in for the 2009 Venza. Should have readd the manual on the remote start range, I would never have spent more than double on a system that to me is worthless.
  • I have a 2009 Toyota Venza with the factory add on remote start. It's range is a lousy 80 feet when after market brands have ranges up to 1000 feet. Is there any way to extend the range of the factory add on?
  • My clock quit working. Where is the fuse box and what type of a fuse does it take?
    Thank You
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    There's three fuses associated with the clock
    - 7.5Amp "Panel" fuse, in the fuse box by your left knee. Or it's the
    - 15 Amp "Cig" fuse, or it's the
    - 7.5 Amp "Dome" fuse

    You probably blew it by something in your cigarette lighter outlet.

    See your owners manual.
  • 1999 camry keyless entry and windows roll up down quit working .
    driver side windows work ok .
    central locking system does not work u need to lock unlock each door manually .
    any suggestion plz.
    thanks .
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You might have a couple different problems, based on the symptoms you report.

    For the power window circuitry, there basic power comes from the 30A power fuse, goes thru the power relay (which is turned on by the integration relay), and feeds all of the power window switches. The fact that at least the drivers window works, leads me to conclude that the power fuse and relay are okay. You should try the windows switches on each of the other doors, to verify that they are able to control each of the individual windows. If so, then I would conclude that your window motors are okay and suspect that your window problem is caused by a bad drivers side door panel switch. You would verify that before replacing, by checking the workings of the switches with a voltmeter.

    If the individual door switches do NOT work correctly, then the problem could be that all 3 of the non-driver motors are blown (very unlikely, but possible), or again the drivers side door switch is bad. Here again, the proof would come from a voltmeter on the switches.

    The door lock circuitry, has three power sources. The 30A power fed thru the power relay (which should be okay based upon your driver window working), and a 10A Gauge and 25A Door fuse which feed the integration relay circuitry, which then contorls the door locks. Verfiy that those two fuses are okay, visually and with a voltmeter/ohmmeter. If fuse bad, replace it and retest. If not bad, then we start to suspect that the integration relay is bad.
  • Mr. Kiawah thanks for quick response
    windows does not work from any switch. every thing quit working at once central locking , keyless entry ,window rolling and little clock in the dash. i did lock my car with remote at my work and every thing was working fine. end of day when i try to unlock the door with remote it did not work i did open driver side door with key which is may be first time in 10 years of car life i did. the alarm go off. after couple of minutes i turn the ignition on car started and i drove home . every thing looks ok except dash clock. then i notice all the problem mentioned above. i will also check voltage at each window switch after work. but i feel like main culprit is some kind of fuse or relay .
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Oh okay, that's different than you originally stated. You said
    "driver side windows work ok "

    Given that windows do NOT work, then check the 3 fuses that I referenced earlier.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I should have also said in my last post, that it would not be necessary to pull apart the drivers side switch and verify the switch operations. That would be necessary if the drivers side window WAS working, and the others WERE NOT. If that was the failing symptom, then I know that power is getting to the switch since the one window was working, and you would therefore need to meter why the other switchs weren't working.

    With NONE of the windows working, it is much more likely a fuse issue, so just check those first.
  • My Dashboard lights and tail lights recentlly stopped working both at once. I wanted to know if you believe its just a fuse and if so how do I go about changing that? I have no clue where the panel is or where to start. Can somone please assit me in this matter.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check your 15A "Tail" fuse.

    It's in the fuse box by your left knee, 3rd row down, 2nd fuse over.

    Your owners manual would show you where that's at.
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