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Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions

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  • I just bought a 1997 Camry LE and I noticed that the Dashboard is totally dark and does not have any light to be able to see the Dashboard controls like clock, radio etc,. I cannot even see what gear the vehicle is running on!

    Is this normal or is there a fused bulb that should be illuminating the dashboard I should be checking for?

    Another thing I noticed was that the radio will not work till I switch on the Headlight!! It looks to me like the radio wiring got somehow hitched to the Head light circuit. Anyone has any ideas how to fix this?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Suspect that someone hacked into the wiring (possibly a replacement radio), and possibly cut into the wire that provided power to the dash lights, and used it to feed power to the radio.
  • dclift61dclift61 Posts: 3
    The key turns fine, when I put it in the ignition, bells ding and everything seems ok, when I turn the key everything dies, no radio, lights, no click to the starter...nothing...any suggestions???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,617
    Jiggle the transmission lever (presuming this is an automatic) to see if the neutral safety switch is misaligned, or...step on the brake and shift to neutral and try to start it. If that works, then the neutral safety switch is out of whack.

    Another way to test the neutral safety switch on an automatic is to bypass it by placing a simple remote starter on the starter relay. The car won't actually run like this, but it will "crank", telling you that there's nothing wrong with the starter at least.

    It is possible that your ignition switch is also defective, and not sending current to the starter relay. This can be checked out with a simple test light on the starter relay contact that connects to the ignition switch wiring. Turning your key to start should illuminate the test light.

    MODERATOR

  • dclift61dclift61 Posts: 3
    I have the same problem with the car in neutral, this was an "all at once" problem the car started fine when I went to the store, and wouldn't start 15 minutes later. The battery alternator and starter all seem to be fine, the problem isn't in the key and tunbler they work fine, the parts dept at Toyota says the ignition switch...my question is wher the heck is the switch and how do I go about replacing it?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,617
    edited May 2010
    Oh I think they mean the electrical part that plugs into the ignition tumbler and lock.

    But this is just a wild guess on their part. You should have the starter relay tested to see if you get ignition current to the starter relay when you twist the key. If you do get current each time you twist the key, then going through all that trouble to extract the ignition lock and switch would have been for nothing.

    Also it can still be your neutral safety switch, which will interrupt current to the starter relay, giving you the false idea that the ignition switch is bad.

    MODERATOR

  • dclift61dclift61 Posts: 3
    They told me that if I popped a cap on the shift housing that there is a lever (switch) that can be depressed to bypass the neutral safety switch,. I did as they suggested and I still have the same problem...I did notice that since this has started that I can't shift even with the brake depressed unless i push that bypass down...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,617
    No, you're just getting one bad piece of advice after another. What they were referring to was the shift-interlock mechanism which can be by-passed. THis has nothing to do with the Neutral Safety Switch.

    You don't need to step on a brake to START a car, right? Only to shift it.

    So you have TWO problems. One is probably a bad brake switch.

    Now on a CLUTCH car you need to step on the clutch to start the car.

    MODERATOR

  • Ok. I need to further clarify. The Dash lights fine on the Radio controls, but it is dark on the Gear and the A/C controls area. I will get the wiring checked. Any idea how much this kind of work costs? I would think the guy would have to open up and check the wiring and fuses for those areas..
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,617
    Okay. Has anyone checked the fusible links in the wiring on this car? These are usually found running off a wire from the positive battery cable and then along the inner fender liner. There may be more than one fusible link, and they may branch from the lighting to also the starter relay. This sounds like something you should definitely investigate.

    Fusibles are tricky---they might "look" okay but aren't.

    MODERATOR

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited May 2010
    You're giving some conflicting info.

    You first said you had no dash lights and used radio as example. Then you said you had dash lights on your radio.

    Let's backup and so some basics.

    With a voltmeter, can you tell me what the voltage of the battery is.

    Then go to the cigarette lighter, and carefully put the probe onto the center contact point (without touching the sides), and tell me what that voltage is. The key will need to be in the accessory or on position.
  • Sorry about the confusion, it looks like the radio was replaced before I bought the car and the wiring got screwed up when the radio was replaced. So I am going to take it to the mechanic tomorrow to have it fixed.
  • Thanks a bunch bperrico, my clock went out 3 years ago.I had given up on locating this "secret fuse box"...I found it now and replaced the blown and the clock is working again!! Thank you
  • bobo23bobo23 Posts: 4
    The interior lights don't work on my 94 Camry XLE. I can't find a fuse that fixes the problem, can anyone give me a suggestion
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check the 10A Panel fuse.

    Upstream (closer to the battery), is the Tail Relay, which is turned on by the light control switch.
  • bobo23bobo23 Posts: 4
    edited June 2010
    How is the Tail Relay related to the interior lights. The 10A fuse is OK. Where could I get The Electrical Wiring Diagram withought buying the manuals?
  • nick84nick84 Posts: 1
    Kiawah / Dave:

    Just saw the message you posted in 2008. Now my car has same problem (2001camry). Can you send me some photos of the "flasher 1" to "flasher 3"? My email is bk7482006@yahoo.com.

    Thank you,
    Nick
  • For the last few days the dashboard rear indicator light goes on either when ignition is turned on or when car is placed in gear and remains so until next restart.

    Dealer wants $49 as baseline " start to search" price.

    Anything I can do other than black tape over indicator light and my wife or I regularly checking lights in rear before driving off?

    Thanks in advance to those who take the time to read and respond to this post.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,617
    You might check to see if there is any corrosion around the bulb contacts or the plug in connector back there. This light could be triggered by a slight voltage drop.

    MODERATOR

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    When you turn on the lights, the tail relay is turned on which supplies power to all of the many circuits and light bulbs that are on at night.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    What problem or post are you referencing from 2 years ago?
  • bobo23bobo23 Posts: 4
    The fuse for that light is 20 amp according to the Toyota Maint book.
  • bobo23bobo23 Posts: 4
    The Toyota manual shows that the Power windows come off the main power relay.which looks like it is in the door control itself. It shows it between the 30 amp fuse and the controls. It also shows a 10 amp fuse tied to the door lock control relay which also ties to the power main relay. This book is not real clear about the location of things, but I think it's all in the door switch.through the power main relay.. I'd attatch diagram, but don't know how.
  • kupffxkupffx Posts: 1
    Hello everyone. This is my first time and i need tons of help. 2 Months ago my fuse started blowing in my car. this fuse controls my auto lights, windows, and gauges. so i changed the light and it worked fine for a month then it started again. I took it to a shop and they told me it was the speed sensor so i changed that and it worked for another month. now its doing it again but different. When i put the car in park or start it in park the fuse will blow every time. I thought it was a short in the speed sensor but i unplugged it and it still did the same thing. if i use my manual shift put it in N before i start the car and then D it works. But as long as the car is on and i put it in park the fuse will blow. Can someone help me figure out my problem i'm very stuck. Thank you
  • I suspect you are blowing the fuse because your back up lights are part of the same circuit. There are wires that run by the drivers side trunk hinge and they are at a very common wear spot. If you open the trunk, and look at the bar for the hinge, you will see a bundle of wires running to the trunk lid, including your back up lights. They are probably some bare wires there. If there are, cut and repair the wires properly and try to put some extra "armour" around them. That may solve your problem. That might explain why your car won't blow in Neutral, because it doesn't shift past Reverse and activate (electrify) the back up lights. Let me know if that solves it.
  • dbentondbenton Posts: 1
    I have the same problem on my daughter's 1989 Camry. Would the same diagnosis apply, and if so do you have the assembly diagram for that year? Thanks in advance.
  • My friend has a 92' camry and it overheated. The car died and the horn started honking. We towed it back to the shop and topped off the fluids. Tried to start it again and horn honks when the key is turned on. Also it isn't getting any spark now but it turns over. Any suggestions?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2010
    Well just unplug the horn to stop that nuisance for now, and work on the main engine won't start problem.

    Since it appears you have a couple electrical problems going on, start with making sure the battery is good, sitting at about 13.5 to 14 volts, it's terminals are clean (with no corrosion) and tight.

    Let use know what you find the battery voltage to be. You're going to need a voltmeter to check some further voltages as well.

    And when it overheated, how long did they drive it, and how did it finally stop running?
  • The car is turning over just fine. The batt is new. I even unpluged the alarm and it still honks. I've heard that the computer will do that so you'll have to send it in.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2010
    Unplug the wire, that is connecting the horn to the harness. Find the horn, follow the wire back.

    So this may be the alarm system, which is stopping the ignition from working.

    What kind of alarm system is this?
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