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Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions

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  • to0h0tt2cto0h0tt2c Posts: 1
    edited July 2010
    Hi, I have a 2001 Camry, LE 4 cyl. and I accidently hit a pothole and my hazards and turn signals are not working. I had changed the relay swtich (which was burning hot when i took the old one out) and the fuse were all checked and working. I can hear a clicking sound when i push the hazard switch on the dash area above the vents but nothing is happening. :confuse:

    (also i have an afftermarket alarm system in the car, they have 2 fuse which are both ok and working, but when i click my alarm my lights appear to come on, both front and back so i dont think its a wire or something)

    Can anyone help?????? :cry:
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2010
    Going to need to do a little investigation, to figure out what is working and not-working. Hopefully we can zero in on the problem.

    Do this at dusk (so you can clearly see the intensity of light bulbs), with someone to help you. One person in the vehicle, the second person outside looking at the bulbs.

    1.) Verify to start with, that there are no outside lights on.
    2.) Next put on the brake and hold it. Verify that the rear brake lights are on, and both are BRIGHT, and there are no lights on in the front. Then release brake.
    3.) Now lets check the parking lights. Turn on the parking lights, and verify that all four corners have the parking lights on, but they are DIM. Now turn lights off.
    4.) Put on the left turn signal. Tell me whether the left rear is: OFF, ON BRIGHT, ON DIM, or ON BRIGHT FLASHING. Let me also know what the front left signal is doing. Then verify that the right side lights (front and back) are both off.
    5.) Repeat the same process with the right side signal. Tell me what the lights are doing.
    6.) Now turn on the parking lights again, and then the left turn signal while the lights are on. Do the left lights show DIM, BRIGHT, or what?
  • kapilmkapilm Posts: 1
    Hi all!
    As ignorant as i may sound, i'll go ahead with my question... i have an '08 toyota camry LE... and ive figured out where the fusebox is... Now, my cigar lighter fuse has blown off and i already have a replacement... all i need to know is how to open the lid of the fuse box... a nice, detailed description would be really helpful, since i tried a lot and all i could reach till is the knee airbag! thanks again
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited August 2010
    There are two major fuse boxes, one is up in the engine compartment, the 2nd is under the dash by the drivers left knee. You should be dealing with the inside one.

    Get you head under the dash by the brake, looking upward. You'll see a black cover with a lip on it. The lip is on the forward edge (toward the front of the car) Pull down on the lip, and the cover should pop off. Replace the blown fuse.
  • ted97ted97 Posts: 1
    I HAVE AN 2002 CAMRY AND THE CHECK ENGINE IS ON. THE CODE READS SENSORS BAD. HOW DO I FIX PROBLEM AT REASONABLE COST. :confuse:
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,830
    Hi Ted, I'm not sure what your exact question is. Are you asking for instructions on how to replace the oxygen sensors yourself? If so, here's a step-by-step guide: http://www.ehow.com/how_6016857_replace-toyota-camry-oxygen-sensor.html

    Of course you have to purchase the replacement parts first - this would be via your local auto parts store, or they can be found online at a wide range of prices - a quick search showed $50 - $120 each.

    If you're asking about getting it done at a shop, I'd suggest calling a local repair shop, or asking friends for recommendations on good shops. This is a very standard (rather than specialized) repair, so you don't HAVE to go to a Toyota dealership.

    MODERATOR
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  • ok my fuse keeps blowing found the wore wire by in the trunk fixed it worked fine then i put everything back in went to reverse then the fuse blows again now i dont konw what the hell to do
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Go check those connections again, to make sure nothing is shorting to ground. Since you found uninsulated wires there, that is the most likely problem spot.

    Might also be a problem in the reverse light bulb itself, take the bulbs out and make sure the connection are clean and not touching anything, then put in reverse again to see if it blows. If no blow, then put the bulbs back in and try again.

    Might also be the reverse switch itself up on the transmission, you'd have to meter that to see if was shorting to ground or not.

    Those are the three areas I would look.
  • I just bought a used 03 Toyota Camry LE. Tonight, while my wife was driving home, she went over a bump. All of the interior lights went out for a second then came back on. When she got home, she had me get in the car. When I shut my door, the radio and other interior lights blacked out for a second then came back on. The same thing happened when I put on my seat belt. After driving around for two minutes, the problems magically went away. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated, especially those that are cheap in nature as I'm a poor college student.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check first that the battery is firmly held down, and that the connectors are tight. People mess around with the battery, and it could just be a loose wire/connection.

    Let me know the status, if need be I'll dig into the electrical schematics.
  • every time i turn on the switch for the heater blower i blow a fuse on my 1995 toyota camry. How can I trace the short??
  • That seems to have done the trick. The connectors weren't that tight on the terminals. I took them off, used a wire brush and and some fine sand paper and cleaned up the terminals and the inside of the connectors. I then made sure everything was nice and tight. If the problem happens again, I'll let you know. I also popped open both fuse box containers and made sure all the fuses were nice and secure. If I have more problems I'll let you know. Thank you.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    great.....glad it appears to have worked
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I suspect your problem is with the blower resistor, but if it's not that....then I would suspect the switch (to a lesser degree).

    The blower resistor is how they get lower speeds on the blower fan, it has wires which are a resistance and get hot, thereby dropping the voltage down to a lower voltage, so the fan turns slower.
  • pretty stranger have a 94 and the same thing happen, along with tail lights and break lights. anyone help me?
  • dbj460dbj460 Posts: 3
    I unhooked my battery. I then took a wire brush and cleaned the battery terminals. Then, using the wire brush and some 400 grit sand paper (i wouldn't go too course, but i imagine 100 or 150 grit would be fine) and cleaned off the wire connectors (sorry for my lack of proper terminology). I then reconnected my battery, making sure the connections were really secure. I also opened up both fuse boxes (the one in the engine compartment as well as the one inside the cab of the car) and made sure all of the fuses were connected properly). Since I did all of that, I haven't had a problem. I would start by doing those as those are relatively easy things to do. Getting into the electrical schematics and chasing down a short in the system get messy and time consuming and are to be avoided unless necessary. The steps I took are the steps told me to when I posted my problem. Good luck. If they don't solve your problem, there are few here who could help you with the electrical schematics if you asked nicely.
  • I just bought a new 2011 Camry to replace the 2003 with a blown head gasket. Much to my surprise, the bare bones camry I purchased does not come with keyless entry but of course is offered as an option which I did not get.

    I was hoping that I could use the module and the fob from the 2003 on the 2011. ideally this would be plug and play. Does anyone know where this module is located on the 2003? Does anyone know where it "plugs in" on the 2011.

    Any other insight would be appreciated.

    Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,525
    That's not gonna happen. I'd suggest you have a remote locking module installed at a car audio shop. There are inexpensive ones available for maybe $150, like from Viper Alarm. This gives you a separate little keypad that you put on your keychain with your regular key.

    MODERATOR

  • richmcrichmc Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 Camry, the passanger side tail lights do not come on. The driver side works fine. When ever I turn my right blinker on flashes twice as fast as when I turn the left on. Am I looking at wiring or fuse issue? Help please.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited October 2010
    You have a bad bulb, most likely rear passenger side, but could be front passenger side if it's not the rear..
  • I replaced a tail light bulb and the related fuse on my 97 camry and the right signal is affected. When headlights are on the right rear light will stay lit. When the headlights are off all the lights will be blinking like they would in an emergency situation. The left hand signal works perfectly.
    Help please.
    Thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You have a bad dual filament bulb.

    A dual filament bulb has two filaments in it, a bright one (for brake lights and/or front turn signal) and a dim filament (for when your headlights are on).

    If one of those filaments breaks, it typically will lay over and touch the 2nd filament, thereby powering the other circuit.

    So the symptom you are seeing is this. You put on the right turn signal, and the 'bright' filament is energized on the right side. That filament touches the parking light filament, and thru that circuit thee voltage is now fed to the dim circuit on all four corners.

    If you are able to look closely at the filaments in the bulb while they are working, you will see the problem.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    edited October 2010
    That "short" between the two circuits sometimes happens inside the socket, socket contacts, and even on the base of the bulb. As you push/twist the bulb into the sockets the twisting motion forces the socket contacts together.
  • For several weeks the red "BRAKE" system warning light has gone on daily. It consistently goes on a few minutes after car initially driven in AM. The frequency of light going on diminishes or ceases as the car is driven more throughout the day.

    Turning the steering wheel to the left seems to trigger the dashlight. It sometimes disappears when the wheel is turned to the right, the brakes are applied or the car is pulled over and the parking brake is applied and released.

    The brakes are working fine. Car has 100,000 miles and I am the initial owner.

    Thank you to all who take the time to read and respond to this post.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,525
    edited October 2010
    Check your brake fluid level first thing and if low, pull the wheels off and see what's going on with the brake calipers and/or linings.

    MODERATOR

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Your brake pads are probably worn, and your brake fluid low because of that.

    You're probably long overdue for a brake job, including brake fluid flush.
  • Thanks so much. I'm going to check and get back yo you.
  • kiawah, all bulbs are OK.
    What next?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Then you may have corrosion on the bulb socket.

    Take each bulb out, and work on them one by one. Take the bulb out, and with a piece of sandpaper lightly sand the brass on each bulb base, as well as the silver contact points on the bottom. You are looking to get a clean contact.

    Next roll up a piece of sandpaper like a cylinder, and put that into each socket and clean that as well. Blow air in the socket to get all the dust particles out.

    Now on a dual filament bulb, if will have two silver contacts on the bottom, with the ground being made thru the brass side. Look carefully at the lugs on the bulb, you will notice on a dual filament bulb that they are at different 'depths' up the side of the brass base. If you look in the socket, you will see the grooves where those lugs engage, and one groove is deeper than the other. Place the bulb back into the socket, so that the deep lug is correctly positioned into the deep groove.

    Now power on the bulbs headlights, and see that the low output filament is lit. Now try the brake, and you should see the high output filament light. You need to look real close and actually see which filament is lit.

    Now move on to the next bulb, and go all the way around the car until you have cleaned and checked each bulb.

    Normally you will find a broken bulb filament is shorting out to the other filament. To a lesser degree, you may find corrosion in the socket which is causing the short between the two circuits.
  • the signal light is the one that stays lit and does not flash at all when head lights are on. When head lights are off the left signal light can now flash but it makes all other lights fhash (front and back) as well as if I have put the emergency flashing lights.
    I hope this clarifies the misunderstanding.
    I appreciates your suggestions
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