Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions



  • The fuse never actually blew - it melted and one of the blades popped out. It was a red fuse (that's 10amp isn't it?). Maybe the fuse wasn't seated properly at the same time and the loose connection and extra amps caused heat. But, not enough amps to blow it.

    I did use permanent connectors. I don't like tracking down electical problems I already fixed - so I tend to over do repairs.

    I will add and extra $50 to the scholarship this year and give extra cash to the food bank this Christmas. I will also help somebody else with their car problem. Thanks, again.
  • ronl2ronl2 Posts: 1
    The power windows, seat belts, backup lights and gauges will not work on my 1990 Camry. It keeps blowing the 7.5 fuse. I checked wires going to door. Could it be the backup switch on the brake pedal? What is going on here?
  • Kiawah has helped many of us to a similar problem. First, you backup light circuit has a wear point in the trunk you may want to check out. My 95 blew a similar fuse (10A though) and screwed everything up (windows, charging system, shifting out of first, etc). I checked the wires that go to the back up lights (in the 95 it was on the drivers side going from the top of the trunk up the hatch. What I found were bare wire and melted insulation at the hinge (that's probably not the right term). This seems to be a common problem. Repair those wires with a permanent connection with lots of protection if they are worn. Then replace your 7.5 A fuse. If that isn't the problem then check out post #787. Good Luck and thanks to Kiawah I have a reliable Camry again!

    AND HE BEAT ME TO IT - SEE Post #847
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    +1 to pathfind response

    Please verify that it is the "Gauge" fuse that you are blowing, and not something else.
  • My 2000 Camry LH headlight was intermittent so when I went to replace the bulb, found the white wire covering and bulb housing connectors melted. Now, there is no power to the headlamp and the fuses are all good. Have checked the wires back 6" and found no additional melting. Advice?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Can you tell me whether you have daytime running lights, or not. There is different circuitry depending upon whether you have DRL.

    There are three fuses in this circuitry, make sure all are good.
    - 40A Main
    - quantity (2) of 15A Headlight fuses

    Also let me know whether you have a little portable DC voltmeter that you would know how to use to check some voltages. We can definitely prove where the problem is if you have one of those. They're about 15 bucks.

    If you are asking for advice on the connector, you need to buy a replacement socket, and solder the wires in. Make sure you get the correct wires to the correct socket position. You have a high and a low beam wires, as well as a ground.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Not altogether unusual, especially so if someone has substituded "brighter" aftermarket bulbs in place of the factory recommendation.

    55 watt Halogen light bulbs run on the HOT side. If at one time someone was not careful enough at fully seating the connector this is what happens. or you may have simply encountered a factory manufactuering defect, the electrical connection of the socket was somehow compromised.
  • i just got a switch for my power windows on my 92 toyota camry and i cannot get any power through the switch or my sunroof could it be something wrong with the fuse or the power window relay. i cannot even find the window relay
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check two fuses:

    - 10 A Gauge Fuse, and
    - 30 A Power Fuse. This 30A is on the fuse block by your left knee, but it is a big fuse over on the right hand side. On the right edge of the fuse block, the top fuse is the Power Fuse.

    Let me know what you find.
  • I own a 2003Toyota Camry xle. Two lights on my heating system do not come on. Is it a fuse problem or do I need to remove the unit?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Are you talking about the tiny illumination lights at night, that light up the dash and all of the accessories? Like the lights that illuminate the cigarette lighter, radio, etc?

    If you are, this circuit has one fuse that powers all of these lights, so if one is powered they all would be powered. It's the 10A Gauge fuse.

    If only one or two are out, then most people would probably just ignore it, otherwise it'll be a trip to the dealership to let them take your dash pieces apart, at whatever their labor rate is.
  • bmw65bmw65 Posts: 1
    My keyless entry keyfob has decided not to work! After two days at the dealer, during which they were unable to re-program the existing key or a new one, I was able to get it working (though not as well as previously). The doors unlock/lock but none of the lights go on like before; also, I need to be right up on the car for it to work! The remote starter is on the key as well, but I have not been able to get that to work! Any ideas? I should mention the car was hit earlier in the year, however, there was no apparent need for any repairs othyer than body damage.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Is there a year, make, model, trim for your vehicle?

    And is that remote entry and start system a factory unit, or a dealer/other add on?
  • i get a code 14 = bad igniter,short in wireing,bad ecm. Q: if i jump the igt wire with the igf wire and bipass the igniter will this mess up the ecm or the ignter ? And yes my head herts from tring to read the wiring diagrams
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The ECM is just the trigger for the igniter. You need the igniter for ignition to work.

    I suspect you'd blow the ECM's output to the igniter, if you connected directly to the coil.
  • I just noticed that my right headlight stopped working. I didn't even bother to look closely at the bulb before buying a replacement. I just assumed that it was burned out. I replaced the light, and the problem continued. I checked the old bulb with a volt meter and it checked out fine. I checked the 20A fuses, for both left and right lights, and they are both good. There is a relay that I have not checked yet, though I was tempted to swap it out temporarily with a similar but not identical relay in the fuse box. I am wondering if the relay could actually effect just one side rather than two. What else can I check before taking it to the garage?

  • Problem solved! No comment. LOL
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    "No comment" what does that mean? user error?
  • Both the automatic transmission selector switch light in the center console and the driver-side seat warmer switch light in my wife's 2006 Camry XLE have suddenly stopped working. Is it really likely that two separate bulbs have burned out, or could there be a different problem? I'm not anxious to start removing the center console to check the bulbs until I'm sure.
  • Update: 99 Camry. Fuse would blow at different times while driving.
    After spending alot of time and effort, I took my car to a electric shop for cars. After 2 weeks and 350 dollars they found that after I had the engine rebuilt , they did not secure the wiring harness behing the engine and after driving it for 6 months, which is how long it took for this problem to come up...the wires melted and 3 wires fused together and would rub on the pipe only when I drove the car and hit a bump. So there you have it. Thank you to Kiawah and everyone who tried to help..
Sign In or Register to comment.