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Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions

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  • I have a 2009 Toyota Venza with the factory add on remote start. It's range is a lousy 80 feet when after market brands have ranges up to 1000 feet. Is there any way to extend the range of the factory add on?
  • My clock quit working. Where is the fuse box and what type of a fuse does it take?
    Thank You
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    There's three fuses associated with the clock
    - 7.5Amp "Panel" fuse, in the fuse box by your left knee. Or it's the
    - 15 Amp "Cig" fuse, or it's the
    - 7.5 Amp "Dome" fuse

    You probably blew it by something in your cigarette lighter outlet.

    See your owners manual.
  • 1999 camry keyless entry and windows roll up down quit working .
    driver side windows work ok .
    central locking system does not work u need to lock unlock each door manually .
    any suggestion plz.
    thanks .
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You might have a couple different problems, based on the symptoms you report.

    For the power window circuitry, there basic power comes from the 30A power fuse, goes thru the power relay (which is turned on by the integration relay), and feeds all of the power window switches. The fact that at least the drivers window works, leads me to conclude that the power fuse and relay are okay. You should try the windows switches on each of the other doors, to verify that they are able to control each of the individual windows. If so, then I would conclude that your window motors are okay and suspect that your window problem is caused by a bad drivers side door panel switch. You would verify that before replacing, by checking the workings of the switches with a voltmeter.

    If the individual door switches do NOT work correctly, then the problem could be that all 3 of the non-driver motors are blown (very unlikely, but possible), or again the drivers side door switch is bad. Here again, the proof would come from a voltmeter on the switches.

    The door lock circuitry, has three power sources. The 30A power fed thru the power relay (which should be okay based upon your driver window working), and a 10A Gauge and 25A Door fuse which feed the integration relay circuitry, which then contorls the door locks. Verfiy that those two fuses are okay, visually and with a voltmeter/ohmmeter. If fuse bad, replace it and retest. If not bad, then we start to suspect that the integration relay is bad.
  • Mr. Kiawah thanks for quick response
    windows does not work from any switch. every thing quit working at once central locking , keyless entry ,window rolling and little clock in the dash. i did lock my car with remote at my work and every thing was working fine. end of day when i try to unlock the door with remote it did not work i did open driver side door with key which is may be first time in 10 years of car life i did. the alarm go off. after couple of minutes i turn the ignition on car started and i drove home . every thing looks ok except dash clock. then i notice all the problem mentioned above. i will also check voltage at each window switch after work. but i feel like main culprit is some kind of fuse or relay .
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Oh okay, that's different than you originally stated. You said
    "driver side windows work ok "

    Given that windows do NOT work, then check the 3 fuses that I referenced earlier.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I should have also said in my last post, that it would not be necessary to pull apart the drivers side switch and verify the switch operations. That would be necessary if the drivers side window WAS working, and the others WERE NOT. If that was the failing symptom, then I know that power is getting to the switch since the one window was working, and you would therefore need to meter why the other switchs weren't working.

    With NONE of the windows working, it is much more likely a fuse issue, so just check those first.
  • My Dashboard lights and tail lights recentlly stopped working both at once. I wanted to know if you believe its just a fuse and if so how do I go about changing that? I have no clue where the panel is or where to start. Can somone please assit me in this matter.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check your 15A "Tail" fuse.

    It's in the fuse box by your left knee, 3rd row down, 2nd fuse over.

    Your owners manual would show you where that's at.
  • So we just bought this 99 Camry on Thursday...it has 110K miles on it. Everything looked good and it ran good as well. We're driving it home and the lights/dashboards start dimming...until, finally, the whole car dies. We have to have it towed home. Once we get it home and looked at, it's the alternator. So we replace the alternator. The car now starts but it doesn't stay on for very long, so we check the battery. It needs a new battery as well because this one isn't holding a charge at all. Well, here comes the interesting part. After changing all of this, the dashboard gauges aren't working as in the temperature, the speedometer and rpm's. The gas gauge is still working. The mileage is blank. The clock on the side works but barely. The dome light works but none of the windows work. The keyless entry works.
    Any ideas on what to check next? PLEASE HELP!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Start first to verify that your basic power supply is good. Are the battery connectors clean, free of corrosion, and both the wiring and connector tight to the battery?

    Get a digital voltmeter, and check the voltage of the battery, it should be sitting around 13.5 to 14.0 volts. If you are down at 10-12 volts you still have a battery problem.

    Verify that your voltage is good, and if so we can take you deeper into the electronics to trouble shoot. You may have blown another larger fuse or alternator out while putting the battery in. Who did this installation work?
  • We figured out that the problem was that someone had switched the 10a fuse with a 15. Once we changed that to the 10a, everything came back on and is working again. We took the car out for a test drive, and we heard an electrical pop from the drivers side and all the gauges went out again. We'll replace the fuse again and see how it goes. Could it be an electrical problem that is making the fuse keep blowing?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Tell me specifically which fuse circuit is blowing. The fuse box is labeled. Is it the 10A "Gauge" fuse?

    If so, the alternator could be bad. But that circuit feeds a lot of other stuff, so we'll have to do some sleuthing to figure out what is causing the problem. Don't want to jump immediately to the alternator, but at this point since you were working there....that is probably more likely.

    Who did the alternator repair......where did the part come from, and who put it in?
    Who did the battery repair....where did the part come from, and who put it in?

    Depending upon where the products came from, and who installed them, will determine the suggested course of action to diagnose/fix.
  • It is the 10A gauge fuse. We tried to replace it and it blew again, and then again.
    We bought the parts from AutoZone and did the work ourselves, meaning my dad and I. My dad is a retired mechanic so he knows a lot about cars. The battery is also from AutoZone. Right now we're looking around to see if there's a wire that's been stripped or is touching the metal frame. When we bought the car it was missing the radio, so we're looking to see if something happened when they took it out.
    The battery says 14.64 and so does the alternator so we really don't think it's either of those.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Okay,

    Since the 10A Gauge powers the control circuitry in the Alternator, I think there are at least two scenarios that are possible:

    1.) It could be that there is some problem in the wiring, causing the 10A Gauge to blow, which in turn makes the alternator not work because it doesn't have any voltage to power the control circuitry. That then, causes the battery to run down as it's not charged. Hence, you may have replaced an okay alternator and and an okay battery......unless at AutoZone you had them check the alternator and battery before replacing.

    2.) It could be that the new alternator is bad, and there is a short in the control circuitry, which is causing the 10A gauge fuse to blow. That is causing all the other things on that circuit to not work.

    One thing you could try, is to unplug the alternator, replace the fuse, and then try to run the car without the alternator in the circuit. You'd be running just on the battery at that point. If the fuse blows again, you've eliminated the alternator as being the cause of the problem. If the car runs fine, then you should suspect the alternator is bad.

    One thing you should also check, since you are checking some wiring. Get on your back and lay down in the trunk, with your head up by the left drivers side rear seat. Inspect the wiring, wear it rubs against the metal framing as you open and close the trunk. Sometimes people overjam things in the trunk, the wiring becomes pinched or wears, and shorts out.
  • We tried what you had suggested about unplugging the alternator and trying it off the battery, it blew the fuse. So then we rehooked everything back up and it blew again before the car was even started all the way.
    Any other suggestions?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The 10A Gauge fuse, handles a lot of control circuitry for a number of things:
    - combo meter
    - cruise control
    - door lock control
    - transmission
    - engine computer
    - key reminder and seat belt
    - headlight control
    - light auto turn off
    - moon roof
    - power windows
    - stop light
    - tail light

    Note: a number of items have the control circuitry powered by the gauge fuse, but then has another fuse for that same item which may go thru the secondary points of a relay. As an example, the control circuitry powers and controls a relay, when the relay is turned on it supplies power to the device thru a different fuse.

    Take a look at all of the relays, see if any of them look (or smell) burnt/melted.

    Looks like you found out why they were interested in selling it.

    Let me go look at the schematics, and see if there is some way I can get you to unhook some couplers to see if we can get it to stop blowing the fuse.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    A 15 amp fuse in a 10 amp position.

    Radio was removed.

    Whoever installed that 15 fuse amp may have done so knowingly and for good logical reason. I would first try another 15 amp fuse on the chance some past owner knowingly put an extra load level on that circuit.

    Was a new radio installed and who did the work..??
  • We did try another size fuse, we tried another 15 and also a 20....each blew the fuse.
    As of right now, there is no radio in the car. The person that owned it before said he took it out and to a place to get the radio fixed because there was a cd stuck in it. He also said it was expensive to fix and it would have been cheaper for him to buy another factory one. We were gonna put a Sony one in that we had already bought awhile ago.
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