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Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions

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  • Did you ever get an answer to this question?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    rsteen,

    If nobody answers your question, I'll look at the schematics when when I get back into town later in the week.

    I'd suspect that the fuse is blown, and you should swap it with a similar rated fuse to prove it. Schematics would show exactly how the circuitry is wired, and which fuse(s)would be the culprit.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    rsteen,

    Check out the ACC Relay. This Accessories relay powers the 15A PowerPoint, the 15A Cig Lighter, (which are the two items you recognize aren't working), and also the 10A Rad#2, and a 5A ECU-ACC.

    It's on a connection block with 6 relays on it, the ACC one is the one in the corner. On the long edge, you'll find the Fog Relay in the middle, then then Tail Relay, then the ACC Relay in the corner. The wires from the instrument panel connect into that same block.

    Good luck.
  • Hi,
    I have a '99 Camry LE that has an alarm on it. This past week, the car isn't starting unless jumped, or on a battery charger. I think the problem is a blown fuse, but I don't know where the fuse box for the tail lights is located. The tail-light-out indicator has been on for a while, but the tail-lights work when I step on the brake. Also, after starting the car after its on the battery charger, the tail light sensor is off, only to light up again when I step on the brake to put the car into gear. What fuses do I need, where do I replace them? I have no car manual since the car is second-hand. Thanks for your help!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Not sure why you believe you have a blown fuse. The fact that you have to jump your car to start it, usually points to (in order of probability):
    1.) Your battery is bad, and it isn't holding a charge. It doesn't hold enough power to start the car, so you have to jump it.
    2.) Your alternator is bad, and it isn't recharging the battery back up, while you drive.
    3.) Something is left ON and draining the battery down.

    More than likely I would suspect your battery. You can take your car to the local auto parts store and they'll do a free battery and alternator check for you (Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc). They will test it under load/stress. Let us know the results.
  • I plug a Garmin iQue GPS unit and an iPod into my cigarette lighter and after a while, it blows the fuse. The fuse for the lighter is 15 amp, I even put a 20 amp fuse in and it still blows. Even with just the GPS unit in,it still blows the fuse.
    Any suggestions?

    If I want to run a direct wire from the battery to the GPS, where is the best place to get the power from?

    What would happen if I just short the fuse holder?

    Thanks for any help...
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The purpose of the fuse, is to protect the wire from burning up when too much current is drawn. This would be an extremely costly repair if you allow this to happen, and could easily start a fire as well...... which is what you are risking when you put a 20Amp fuse in a circuit rated at 15Amp. If there is a dead short load plugged in, SOMETHING is going to burn up....and you want it to be the fuse. The battery for instance will deliver hundreds of amps of power in total, which is a very thick piece of wire (look at the size of the battery cables as a reference). You would never want to direct wire anything to the battery, everything MUST be fused, and the fuse rating has to be LESS than what the wire itself is rated at. If the fuse is rated higher than the wire, then the wire burns up instead.

    You can look at the power consumption of your Garmin, and I'd be surprised if it is more than a couple amps (watts = amps x 13volts). The 15amp receptacle would be more than enough power to power your 2 devices, so something is shorting. I'd suspect what is happening, is that the garmin plug (or the ipod plug), is made in a way that either the side or tip contact is somehow shorting out, and blowing your fuse. I had that situation with an old radar detector, I had to put the plug in a certain way, with the side connectors in a certain direction, or it would trip the fuse. Look carefully at how the male outlet is made and where the contact points are. Then look carefully at the female outlet, and where its' contact points are. When you put the plug in to the receptacle, DON'T turn the plug, just push it straight in.

    I have also seen shorts in the male plug itself, but if it was a short it would blow the fuse upon insertion....so I doubt that is your problem.
  • norcal2norcal2 Posts: 1
    1995 Toyota Camry windshield wiper motor quit today. Checked the fuse and seems to work OK, used the replacement fuse and still no joy. (Being that the motor is hot, would be an indicator that there is current.) I manually move the blades and they moved freely together, until I engaged the wipers. They then froze in position and would not move. Please help.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check that your windshield washer is working, that will verify that the power is okay. If that works, then suspect either your switch or your motor. You can check out the motor with Generation 3 wiper motor

    Assumes this is NOT a wagon, standard self diagnosis electrical repair disclaimers apply, your mileage may vary, use only fused test leads, yada yada yada, good luck.
  • moemillsmoemills Posts: 1
    Hi. I'm having the same problem with my 2004 camry. Both outlets not working and I've checked the individual fuses (they look fine). Where is the ACC Relay? Is that a fuse in the same block or ??? Sorry, I just don't know what that is ... Thx. Randy
  • jjoseph2jjoseph2 Posts: 18
    my 1990 toyota camry as soon as i start the car the temprature gauge go all the way up.But if i tap on the dash board it will come down.I like to know any one had the same problem
  • bunybuny Posts: 2
    Have had the same problem !!! The only difference was the weather. In my case it was -20C and blowing snow. Am in Sask. Canada. Problem went away on its own after a few minutes, but re-occurred a month later...still very cold weather.
    Dealer replaced a relay located under dash with a re-designed unit. He told me old relay caused problems in cold weather. Maybe relay not good in hot weather either??
    HJ
  • jjoseph2jjoseph2 Posts: 18
    I found the problem with the Gauge.The gauge was defective. Dealer price for the gauge is $ 105.I bought the instrument cluster from a used autoparts place for $20.Replaced the gauge, problem solved.
  • becca3becca3 Posts: 5
    My rear left hand turn signal does not work. I had thought that I just needed to replace the bulb. After getting it checked, I was told that I need a new FUSE. I looked under the hood but couldn't find where the new fuse would go. Does anyone know about this? How much should it cost if I took it to a mechanic to do. Should I buy the fuse myself?
    Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Becca,

    The fuse for your turn signal is down under the dash, by your left knee. The fuse to handle the turn signals is 7.5amp and is easy to replace.

    However, you indicate that the 'left' hand turn signal does not work. If your right hand works, then the problem would not be your fuse since the fuse does both right and left.

    What exactly is the symptom you are getting that it doesn't work? Does it come on and stay on without blinking? Does it blink fast? Does it do nothing?

    When you have the failing symptom, would you get out of the car and say what the rear signal bulb is indicating (on/off/blinking), and what the front signal bulb is indicating (on/off/blinking). If it is blinking, take note as to whether it is blinking correctly (ie.. not a quick short flash).
  • becca3becca3 Posts: 5
    Thanks for your suggestion. I just checked the front left hand turn signal and it blinks fast. The rear one does not come on at all. The right hand signals work correctly.

    What do you think it could be. Thanks for you help.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    One of your bulbs is bad, I suspect it is the rear one. When it blinks fast, it usually means that one of the filaments is broke, and is shorting out internally to the parking light circuit. The blinker works on the amount of current draw, so when there is a short like this the blinker blinks real fast.

    Take both the left front and rear blinker bulbs out and check them, I'd actually suggest replacing both while you have them apart...they're cheap, and you don't want to have to take them apart again in 6 months.
  • becca3becca3 Posts: 5
    Thanks for your help. I'll do what you suggested.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Come back and let us know how it turns out.
  • ryan99ryan99 Posts: 46
    Hi everyone, Quick question on replacing a window motor on this car...do I have to replace the regulator as well? seems like all the motors I find to buy come attached to the regulator...wouldn't that make it a bigger job? thanks
    Ryan
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Great information, kiawah. You might think about adding a CarSpace Guide on the door disassembly as well. Folks who wouldn't know to look at your album would more likely check in that area.

    You make some really great contributions to our discussions, by the way. Thank you! It's very much appreciated. :)
  • ryan99ryan99 Posts: 46
    Wow! thats just what i needed and more than I would have asked for...thanks alot...I always find good help here...
  • dugan00dugan00 Posts: 2
    I have a 1992 Toyota Camry with 210,000 miles on it and the clock works very intermittently. For the last month or so, the lighting surrounding the environmental controls doesn't work. I was wondering if this was caused by a bad fuse, or is it something else?

    Thanks.
  • truckerstruckers Posts: 1
    Hello newfoldenkid could you please send me a copy of the position of the fuse box and fuse for the windows.
    My son in law has a Camry estate 2.2lt 1993 he can not close the moon roof or work the windows or door locks its a right hand drive.
    acording to the camry manual the fuse is listed as a 30amp fuse instrument panel. fuse number 34.
    He has tried but can not find it?.
    its listed as a type b fuse have you got any ideas
    please.
    truckers
  • johnnyd1johnnyd1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Toyota Camry with the automatic temperature control feature. The light for the A/C button on the control in the dashboard has gone out. Does anyone know if this is easy to replace? Are there any schematics available? The dealer wants almost $200 to replace the bulb or bulbs.

    Thanks.
  • uhaul2uhaul2 Posts: 1
    Similar problem with '96 Camry. Various lights on dash/blinkers flash with accompanied clicking noise. Car won't start. Changed battery. No luck. Please help!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    There's a couple things I'd suggest. First, it's always good to make sure that your battery and alternator are stable and putting out the necessary power (under load). Almost all of the parts supply stores (Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc) will hook up your car to a tester and validate that both of these critical components are performing. Make sure there isn't any corrosion around the battery connections.

    Secondly, I'd then check 3 main fuses in this vehicle. Under the hood on the left front fender wall there are two fuses. Alt-H is a 100Amp fusible link, and AM2 is a 30Amp fuse. Check for battery voltage at both sides of these fuses when you are having the failing condition. You should have 13+Volts with a voltmeter. The third fuse AM1 is a 40Amp fuse inside the car by the drivers left knee.

    Let me know how your battery and alternator checks out, and whether any of these voltages aren't correct.
  • riahsmomriahsmom Posts: 1
    The interior lights (dome and below glove box) have stopped working in my 97 Camry. I checked the corresponding fuse under the hood and it appears to still be intact. Would there be another cause for the lights to not work?

    Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You should also check:
    - the fusible link, which is in JunctionBox#2, under the hood, on the inside of the left front fender, kind of behind the left headlight.
    - the 7.5 Amp fuse, which you've said you have checked. You might consider replacing/swapping it anyhow if you are not absolutely certain it is okay.
    - the integration relay, which is inside the car down by the drivers left knee.
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