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Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions



  • I think my point is that they will do it quickly and hoepfully correctly (I've had mixed luck in that dept) BUT only they are aware they did it quickly. The book says it takes 2.5 hours to remove and reassemble a door so thats what they charge. Nevermind it takes less than 1/5 that time. Plus, do they give me my car back after an they hold it 3 hours. Personally if they halved their labor rates I bet thir business would quadruple. I''ll look for an indy shop or if I can find a video or procedure, try it myself I guess. Otherwise it remains broken I guess.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited October 2010
    I say go for it!

    If you have the video, and it will only take you minutes, then within 1/2 hour you'll know whether you're in over your head, or you can most likely handle it. What's the worst that can happen, a back door that won't open?

    Well actually now that I think about it, perhaps it's a door that won't shut, or one where the window won't go up anymore, or a short where none of your door actuators work anymore.

    I still say go for it, nothing ventured, nothing gained. Have faith in yourself.
  • I had a similar situation on an old Chevy. To unlock the driver's door, you would click the unlock button on the fob once. To open the other three doors, you would click it a second time. The passenger's door lock wouldn't always unlock. The lock slide would go about halfway as far as it should have. I found out that by clicking a third time, the lock would travel the rest of the way to unlock the door. Total cost was zero. Granted, it was not a "fix" because the door would not unlock when it was supposed to (after two clicks), but it became a habit where I would always give three quick clicks on the fob, and all four doors would open. I drove it that way for another four years with no problems. See if this might possibly help in your situation. It's worth a try, because it's free! Good luck.
  • that did not work. Funny though it started working last night but stopped again this morning....
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited October 2010
    You're going to need to get that door apart, to diagnose/find the root cause of the problem.

    - Bad/binding locking solenoid.....solenoid bad, and not able to move good linkage
    - Bad/binding locking linkage....solenoid good, but not able to overcome problem with bad linkage
    - loose/corroded electrical connection...electrical power not getting to the solenoid
    - frayed/broken wire in the door jamb area, providing intermittent connections (although I would doubt this is the cause of your age vehicle on a back door)
    - or something else
  • I got tricked about 2 years ago buying a used 1999 camry , they reset the engine lights and right before I got home the speedometer starting acting crazy and tranny slipping..Replaced the vehicle speed sensor which seemed to help..Speedometer would go wacky during heavy rain with puddles or if I ran the air..But car ran good..
    3 days ago , I didnt really pay attention but I plugged a iphone charger into my cig lighter , I coulda swore i saw it light up but not 100%..But now I look at the charger and the nipple is missing , but the cig lighter still heats up but there are some burn marks on the inside of the lighter..
    Problem im having is that the 10amp Gauge fuse keeps blowing , sometimes on startup , sometimes when I put in reverse , or sometimes when I drive about exactly a quarter mile..Seems to be that I can drive the quarter mile after the car has been sitting , but right after if I try to change the fuse it blows on startup..If its in between , the car will start but fuse will blow upon shifting from park...
    There was kind of a loose bulb in the trunk light that I disconnected , looked thru all the wiring in the trunk and it looks fine..Disconnected and pulled fuses for the trunk and the Gauge fuse still blows..Disconnected an old alarm system and tried pulling various fuses still same thing...
    Where would be next place to look??..the wiring behind the Cig lighter that still works but possibly got shorted?? or the vehicle speed sensor that has been kinda wacky from time to time??? Thanks!!!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited October 2010
    Well unfortunately, the 10A gauge circuit is one of the more difficult circuits to diagnose a problem with, since it is wired into so many different things and powers many of the 'control' circuits, for other devices.

    I'll make up an analogy, which is not quite technically correct, but hopefully you'll understand the concept. Your house thermostat is a control circuit, and it needs power to run. It monitors the temperature of the house, and then closes a switch when needed, thereby telling the furnace or air conditioner to turn on/off, and the blower fan to turn on/off. The furnace and airconditioner may use it's own much larger power sources, but the 'control' circuitry can be powered by it's own circuit. (The reason my example is not technically accurate, is because in most furnaces, the thermostat is directly powered by the furnace power, not it's own power source). However, the way Toyota has these circuits built is as I described. The gauge circuit is involved with:

    ABS system and traction control
    backup light
    charging circuit
    dash combo meter
    cruise control
    door lock controls
    auto tranny
    engine control
    key reminder and seat belt warning
    auto turn off light circuit
    moon roof
    power window
    stop light
    tail light.

    Thus the 10A wire runs all over the place and connects into a lot of different control circuits.

    There's a couple of things that are easy to check and do, the rest would be too difficult, particularly without a set of electrical schematics.
    - Go check that loose bulb, bulb fitting in the trunk,
    - Also check VERY carefully, and re-insulate each wire if necessary, the bundle of wires that rub against the trunk hinge.
    - Disconnect that alarm system, I am always very suspicious of aftermarket devices that people add into the wiring. Cut/insulate the power source to it, if need be.

    Beyond that, diagnosing the problem is going to be a bear. You'll need the electrical schematics, a wire routing diagram, volt/ohmmeter, and a lot of patience and determination. You'll need to unplug as many of the control circuit devices as possible, until you can get the fuse to stop blowing yet is still driveable. Even then however, the problem could be in the wiring itself, and with unplugging everything, the fuse still blows.

    If this was my vehicle and I couldn't immediately find it, I might consider wiring in my own new 10A circuit. Wire in a brand new 10A circuit, and then begin using that new circuit to feed the power to all of the other different control circuits. One by one, move the device over from the old power source, to the new power source. At some point when cutting the device off the old 10AGauge circuit and connecting into the new, the 'problem' will shift over to my new circuit, and I'd prove exactly what the problem was.
  • I needed front brakes replaced and also had brake fluid flushed. Problem solved. Thank you.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Super, it's great when a warning light does what it is supposed to do!
  • The alarm button on my smart key sometimes gets pushed when the keychain is in my pocket. Is there a way to disable that button on the key? Or disable the alarm itself? I don't think I would miss it - who pays attention when an alarm is going off?
  • mwj32mwj32 Posts: 1
    Is there a fuse for the Fuel Pump? When I turn on my ignition switch I don't here the normal sound from below my back seat. The car turns but will not start.

    Where would that fuse be located?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Two fuses associated with the fuel pump and pump control.

    15A EFI (electronic fuel injection)
    10A Gauge
  • I have a Toyota 2001 Camry, the front driver side door lock not working by remote
    I were told to check on fuse but have no clue which fuse is for door lock
    Any help will be appreciated.

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Can you clarify your symptoms please, you may be going down the wrong path.

    1. Verify that your door locks work by the door switches. Try both the driver side, and the passenger side, and make sure all the locks open, and all the locks lock from both doors. If these are not working correctly, then it has nothing to do with the remote key fob. Tell me what you find when you do these tests.

    2. If everything is working correctly via inside the car, then click the remote keyfob to lock and unlock the doors. Tell me what you find.
  • aces24aces24 Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 Toyota Camry. The insturment panel lights do not work, as does the power outlet under the cigarette lighter. When I checked the fuse (fuse #29, behind the change holder), I noticed there was no wire running behind the port, and therefore the fuse either sits in there loosely or falls out. It still does not work even when I tape the fuse in. My manual says this fuse is for the power outlet, but I do not see which fuse is for the panel lights (I am assuming it is the same one, unless someone knows differently). I am not very electrically inclined, and do not want to replace the whole panel, but I would like to see the speedometer at night. Is an in-line fuse the only solution (and where would I attach it to...the wires behind the stereo?)?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited January 2011
    The instrument panel illumination, get's it's power from a 7.5Amp "Panel" fuse. Behind lower finish panel.
  • aces24aces24 Posts: 2
    Thank you! There is definitely a short somewhere in that fuse, as it blows immediately upon ignition. The audio system, window defogger, cigarette lighter, etc. all continue to work b/c they run off multiple fuses, but I would like to see my speedometer at night. I'll probably get led lights that plug into the cig lighter, as I imagine that will be cheaper that getting an electrician to look at all that wiring...
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    That fuse handles basically three things: clock, combo meter, and the little illumination lights (goes to dimming rehostat first) that are all over the place.

    Try unplugging the clock, and then see if you can get to unplug the dimming rehostat. That may help you break the circuit apart, to see which chunk is causing the fuse to blow.
  • Hello. I have been digging through this site a bit trying to solve my problem. Based on what I have read, I understand that several components are on the 10A gauge circuit. I have followed some diagnostic steps laid out by kiawah and I am pretty sure I have isolated my problem to the AC system.

    Here is my current status: If I replace the 10A fuse and start the car with the AC off the fuse remains fine - gauges, windows, etc. operate. When I turn on the AC by pushing the AC button the fuse blows immediately.

    As a test, I replaced the 10A fuse with a 15A fuse to see how the AC would function. The AC does indeed work and blows cold air. Of course, that was just a temporary measure.

    So, what is the likely cause? I do not know enough about automotive AC systems, or cars for that matter, to be able to deduce what is faulty.

    Thanks in advance for any feedback or guidance.
  • My generous school snow plowers pushed snow into my car (right under the hood). snow covered radiator upto right in front of battery. I cleaned snow out using a random stick. Driver's side head light was out so I bought 2 pairs of brighter light bulbs for both low and high beams. After replacement, I tested all lights. Only driver's side low beam does not work. How can I approach this problem?
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