Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions



  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Fuses controlling that circuitry are:
    - 30A Power #1
    - 10A ECU-B
    - 10A ECU-IG
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check fuses which supply power to the Airbag computer:
    - 7.5 A SRS
    - 15A Cig/Radio
    - 7.5A IGN
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,644
    Could be a bad sensor. In any event, you probably have no air bag right now.
  • mdevlinmdevlin Posts: 2
    Thanks for identifying the fuses. All three looked good but I replaced them anyways. Still have the sane problem. When I raised the off the track window I blew something other than the fuses that makes all the windows not work. Do you know if there is something other than the fuses that could cause this? Thanks!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited April 2011
    There's a couple other pieces of electronics involved.

    The body ECU computer, sends power to the "Power Relay" to turn on. That relay then allows the power from the 30A power fuse, to connect to both the master door switch as well as the individual door switches.

    Verify that none of the door switch window switches are working. If the drivers master doesn't, but an individual door switch is working, then I would suspect the master door switch is bad. You can verify with a voltmeter whether you are getting power to the switches or not.

    If none of the door switches work, then I would next inspect the power relay (and this is what I suspect might be bad). The way the relay works, is that you provide voltage to it's primary (+12 volts to pin 1, ground to pin 2), and that energizes a magnetic coil inside the relay. The secondary connection are pins 5 (which gets power from the 30A power fuse), and pin 3 (which supplies the power to the door switches).

    With the relay out of the socket, and no power connected to the relay, the resistance as measured with an ohmmeter should be infinite between pins 3 and 5. When you connect 12v to pin 1, and ground to pin2, you should hear and feel the relay click. The resistance measured between pins 3 and 5 should now be zero.

    If you don't have a multi-meter (could get one for 10-20 bucks at autoparts or radioshack), borrow one.

    As a diagnostic technique it is technically possible to bypass the relay by temporarily shorting out the socket with a wire (pin 3 to pin 5 secondaries), but I wouldn't recommend that. If you mistakenly touch pin 1 or 2, you will either blow up the computer or blow the 30A fuse.

    You can however put a voltmeter on pin 1 of the socket to engine ground, and you should find 13ish volts on that pin. That would confirm that the 30A fuse is good, as well as the wiring over to the relay block.
  • bigbean73bigbean73 Posts: 1
    After replaced valve cover gasket on 2000 Toyota Camry, and degreased and cleaned engine, Head relay is making buzzing sound? Just head relay bad, I assume that means head light relay?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    That is correct. That relay is turned on by the combination of the integrated circuit "integration relay", and the column mounted headlight switch. The head relay, when turned on, provides power to the headlights.
  • davecanadavecana Posts: 2
    I left the ignition on overnight in my 2004 camry. Tried to jump it in the morning and when I hooked up the cables the horn went off. Battery is now tested fine (even triend a new one) , lights will go on, and I get some lights on the dash showing the water indicator and door open but when I turn the key, no click and the engine won't turn over. No window power, radio, heater, etc. Wonder if I cooked a main fuse?
  • dprkr79756dprkr79756 Posts: 1
    there is a fuse box on the left side of the stering wheel. Mine looks like an ashtray. Pull that out and you will find fuses there also. That is where I had to replace fuses when my tails lights wouldn't work.
  • davecanadavecana Posts: 2
    Brought it to the mechanic and the main fuse was blown as well as the ignition and the radio fuse. Cost of fuses was $7 and $70 for the hour to figure it out. main fuse is tricky to get out and has a bolt going through it so you have to remove the fuse box to get it. Hope this helps someone else.
  • bugs8bugs8 Posts: 1
    Have a 2009 Camry with digital radio display (not a navigation system) . Sound is working but no display. Can only change channels and modes by using the butttons on the steering wheel. If I touch any button on the radio the unit shuts off. Any ideas?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Take it to the dealer, for a warranty replacement radio
  • danspinelldanspinell Posts: 10
    When my air conditioner is on, my car cannot hold highway speeds higher than 60mph. The further I try to drive the further I have to push down the gas petal to fight with the speed. Also, when stopped at a light, it hesitates and slowly gets up to city speeds. If I stop too fast, the car stalls.

    It is fine when the AC is off. None of the problems happen.

    I have changed the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, wires and the fuel filter.
  • amberlivesamberlives Posts: 1
    hi there, my driver window motor is totally shot and i can see it needs a total replacement however the passengers side stopped working but appears to be fine after taking of panel and looking at mechanism. when I use the window button I can hear power but nothing happens. Looked at fuse box on driver side but can't pull it out and no idea which fuse operates windows. Also my vent on sunroof opens and closes but my sunroof will not open all the way. It stops at about 3 inches then won't budge. I'm a do it yourselfer mostly but putting the whole window motor together might be too much hassle by time I figure it out. Looking for encouragement. Either way I have to purchase entire motor, it's totally shot and missing pieces on dr. side. Pax side look fine but doesn't work...THanks!
  • sid007sid007 Posts: 12
    A year ealrlier My head lights and doors stopped working for my 1997 Toyota Camry LE. I could track down the problem with the integration relay.I bought it from the junkyard and replaced it. It worked fine for a few weeks.Everything was working. But then one day it rained and I was back with the same problem. Everytime I turn the ignition there is a whirring noise inside the integration relay. The headlights /Taillights power windows don't work.The engine starts though. I am absolutely sure the integration relay went bad this time too.There must be something that is burning it out.possibly a short which happens when it rains.May be the water seeps in from somewhere that does this. How can I trouble shoot this.May be look for electrical shorts.But where do I start and how ? I will appreciate a solution
  • limsndlimsnd Posts: 1
    My turn signals and emergency lights stopped working. Everything else works just fine. I'm about to check all fuses, but I think they are fine. I understand it might be flasher relay. My question is, I saw pictures with the location of it, I just don't know how to remove the panel. Screws seem to be hidden. Is it possible to remove that panel without removing top panels? If so, maybe anyone has suggestions or pictures. Thank you.
  • gankhuyaggankhuyag Posts: 2
    edited June 2011
    my toyota camry 1998 LE (no day light, V4) has no headlights, taillights and dash lights. No Power locks too. I checked the headlight relay and it is good (just put on another camry-same year 1998 camry LE). The 40 A fuse is also working. No power on 15A fuses (headlights fuses). I tried to be smart and shorted terminal 1 & 2 on the headlight relay socket (when i took off the head light relay) using a loose wire. I lights came on, but never come off by switch ( only front head lights came on, but tail lights no). Then I also shorted 3 and 4 on the same socket and the lights are not on again. I also double checked by meter terminal 1 & 2 on the socket - there is resistance. But on terminal 3 & 4 nothing. What shall i do? do you think that can be a problem of integration relay? PS: all fuses (except 15A), 30A working fine too!!!
  • josh61josh61 Posts: 2
    edited June 2011
    I have a 1990 Toyota Camry, the first thing I noticed go wrong was the dome light went out, i checked the bulb and it was fine. A week or so later I noticed that the fan in my heat/air conditioner unit would only work on high. Later I noticed my break lights did not work, but my tail lights still did. I checked my fuse box and noticed that by break light fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and as soon as I tuned the car on it blew again. What would be causing all these problems? Could it be one thing or are they all unrelated?
  • josh61josh61 Posts: 2
    I forgot too add, but I do not think this applies. At about the same time as everything else went out, It wouldn't let me shift out of park. The only way I can shift out of park is to hold down shift lock button while shifting.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    It's the brake light voltage that is used to energize the solenoid that releases the park shift position. Most likely cause is a shorted bulb filament, bulb base, or bulb socket.
Sign In or Register to comment.