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Toyota Camry Transmission Questions (MY Prior to 2007)

1246

Comments

  • sean300sean300 Posts: 41
    I don't think that the mounts are bad because it does not feel that bad. I'm not a mechanic but it just doesn't feel like my engine and tranny are "flopping" around. I looked at the torch strut (passenger side by coolant reservoir) and it seems tight and there is no deterioration of the rubber. Also, my guy has looked at the car extensively prior to this and he never mentioned bad mounts - I take it to him exclusively. He only said that the rear mount was really shot. Like you said, I think that he would have caught this a long time ago. But, I also agree with you about just replacing the rear mount for now. My mechanic does not have a problem with installing parts that I buy and supply to him. I searched eBay and the rear mount is only $49 new. Labor should not be that much since I'm only replacing one mount. Thanks for the advice.
  • bkamalibkamali Posts: 4
    Hi All,
    I have a Toyota Camry V6-XLE, year 1997 and about 175000Km on that.
    A couple days ago I noticed that when I go from Neutral to Direct, there is a sudden movement on the motor. So far it never happened when I start the motor and it is cold; but it happens when the motor and transmission are warm.
    It happens occasionally. Sometimes everything is good but sometimes it happens. The transmission oil has been changed (flushed) about one year ago.
    I appreciate any suggestions about the probable cause.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    You're quite welcome. Sounds like you have a good solution for now; also if you have a trustworthy mechanic, that's great.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    If the engine is actually moving with respect to the rest of the car, it could be the engine mounts -- see the past few posts.
  • sean300sean300 Posts: 41
    I had the same problem with my '98 Lexus ES300. The front engine mount was bad (attached to the frame of the car and the engine bracket by the alternator and the belts). The mount is commonly called a torque strut or referred to as a "dog bone" (shaped like one). It was replaced and all other mounts were checked and found to be good. I still have some movement but I am told that it is minimal, the mechanic said that the engine has to have a little give because the mounts are made of rubber. I have replaced this mount on my previous cars which were two camries ( '92 4 cyl. and '95 v6). Do you also hear a clunking sound accompanied by a hard shift or jerk when putting the car in gear? This would occur with my car when moving the gear selector from park to reverse and a little in drive.
  • sean300sean300 Posts: 41
    210delray, see post #104. It was not the rear but the torque strut. You will see the rest in the message.
  • sean300sean300 Posts: 41
    Hi. I posted on es300/330 forum, but I wanted to try this one too, since Lexus is made by Toyota (Camry). I am still having issues with tranny/engine mounts. Replaced the front (torque) strut but advised to change the other three mounts too. What may or will happen if the mounts are not replaced? I am assuming that these are original mounts - have 150K miles on the car. Others have said that they have more miles and have no issues.
  • Hi,
    Thanks for advice.
    I noticed something else, which is the shifting happens in 3000 RPM, normally it was less than 2000RPM.
    Do these problems relate? (probably yes) What is your opinion?
    Regards
  • I am not sure but my es300 shifts in second gear around 4000 rpm' s. The mechanic that changed the dog bone mount said that it is shifting a little late but may be because of the mileage and the age of the car. He also said that the important thing is that the tranny is shifting fine. A guy on the es300/330 forum (Larry1) said that his 1992 es300 was operating fine when traded in at 255K on the clock with the original engine and tranny. So, in short, I don't think that you or I will have any major problems with our cars. I mean, Camrys and Es300's are similar and both made by Toyota. In answer to your original question, I really do not know if the two issues coincide.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    [quote name='kolkh' post='127828' date='Sunday, Sep 2, 2007 @ 06:24 PM']DISCLAIMER:
    Previous post is not a simple reply – this is actually 11-th edition of “Wwest Mythology”. Previous 10 editions have been discussed and bitten to death in approximately ~1000 posts in a number of forums/sites. I have read some of those. What is the result? See here:

    [url=http://www.siennaclub.org/forum/index.php?showtopic=6921&hl=]http://www.sie- nnaclub.org/forum/index.php?...ic=6921&hl=[/url]

    As if previous discussions do not exist, wwest posts the same stuff again and again and again…
    Like a Big Propaganda Machine, wwest is in a win-win situation: if you start infinite discussions and win – it does not mater, next time he will post exactly the same stuff. If you ignore him – he will flood forums and poor readers would have to deal with it anyway.

    END OF DISCLAIMER[/quote]

    Okay, "teacher" will take a different tact, tactic.

    Do you know how many things in a car simply waste energy....???

    A) Power stearing hydraulic pump when there is no "stearing" to be done. What, 98% of the time?

    And yes, I do know that PS pressure helps "hold" the stearing in a "set" position, but just how much energy does that require in comparison to the HUGE losses?

    The PS must have the pumping capacity/volume/displacement to help, SERIOUSLY help, turn the wheels at or near a dead stop(parallel parking...), all the while with the engine turning only at idle, of maybe slightly above.

    So, 2200 RPM and driving straight down the highway at 65MPH guess how much pressurized PS fluid is simply being bypassed back into the sump.

    Is it any wonder that many cars are converting to electric power stearing, even at the risk of having the solid state electronics overheat and therefore automatically going into a sub-standard power assist mode?

    B] Gear-type engine lubricating pump. Again, pumping volume/capacity/displacement must accomodate full pressure and flow even with the engine at idle. So as engine RPM rises the EXTRA pumping capacity must be bypassed back into the sump.

    Either BMW or MB, don't remember which, has already gone to a variable displacement engine lubricating oil pump in oder to reduce these losses and thereby reduce the engine heat load and also increase FE.

    C) A/C compressor. Here again, the compressor pumping capacity must be such that it can provide FULL cooling capability at engine idle on a BRIGHT and SUNNY 100F (or above) day. In this case the A/C clutch along with a reasonably sized liquid refrigerant storage reservoir has been used for "eons" to ammiliate the effects of continuous engine loading by the A/C compressor.

    So why do you suppose so many new vehicles are coming out equipped with the new variable capacity "swash plate" type A/C compressor, and the compressor clutch?

    Because it is better design practice, overall, to have a continous ~2HP load on the engine rather than an intermittent load of ~7HP.

    [b]Getting the picture..?[/b]

    D) And just what is the deal with the torque converter (hydraulic TURBINE pump, slush pump, etc.), just how lossy is that sucker?

    The slush pump, torque converter, is really required ONLY to act as an automatic clutch. At low engine speeds, idle, the losses are so high that virtually no torque is coupled to the transaxle input shaft. NONE would be ideal, but nowadays you need a clutch pedal for that. The nice thing about the torque converter is that it also acts as a reduction gear ratio at low torque loading. But, that's where the torque converter lockup clutch comes into play. In OD it is highly desirous to have the engine operate at the lowest speed at which it can produce "just" enough torque for the current load factor...roadspeed. So at low engine RPMs the HIGH LOSS torque converter is bypassed by the lockup clutch.

    E) This one is slightly off point but I bring it because if I don't someone else will.

    The engine coolant water pump.

    Almost all engine coolant water pumps are of the centrifical, turbine, type and thereby self limiting insofar as pumping volume is concerned. Obviously there is some "needless" loss involved here otherwise the water hoses would not "swell", balloon, as engine speed rises beyond the point wherein the thermostat will accomodate the pump volume. Other than the current crop of hybrids, all equipped, to my knowledge, with electric water pumps, other manufacturers have already converted to electric pumps, if not altogether then at least apartially so, for the cabin heater.

    [b]Get the picture..?

    No...?[/b]

    F) And finally....

    The gear type ATF pump.

    Like everything else above the most critical situation insofar as determining base pump volume occurs with the engine at idle.

    Hmmmm..

    Let's think this over a bit.

    Just what "work" does the ATF pump have to do with the engine at idle?

    Shifting from park or neutral to drive or reverse is clearly not critical insofar as pumping volume is concerned...

    Upshifting once underway always involves engine RPM well above idle....

    Aha, DOWNSHIFTING....

    So, when does an automatic downshift with the engine at idle or nearly at idle.

    Not for passing, kickdown, certainly...

    But then how about just before coming to a full stop...?

    Or during coastdown periods with the throttle fully closed...?

    In both of these latter instances if the transaxle is to downshift lots of ATF pressure/flow will be required to ascertain the downshift clutches are quickly and firmly seated. Otherwise, with low or marginal ATF pressure these clutches would undoubtedly incur some serious level of slippage and the wear associated thereto.

    So, the engineers say to each other, if we could eliminate just these two instances the ATF pump FIXED capacity could be a LOT lower and that would undoubtedly inprove FE overall while reducing the heat load and clutch wear rate.

    Say, what does a stick shift driver do in these instances. Well as the cars coasts to a stop teh driver would normally disenage the clutch and slip the transmission into 1st.

    Well, we can't disenage the clutch....Can we...??

    Sure can, simply "upshift" the transaxle a few notches, no substantial level of engine compression braking, NO transaxle clutch wear. Who cares if the upshifted clutches don't quickly fully and firmly engage...!

    But what about coastdown periods at 40-30MPH with the engine at idle...?

    Why not upshift then too, who's to notice?

    ________________________________________

    The theory behind the above dissertation arose because I noticed a seeming abiguity between my earlier theory, "protect the drive train using DBW to prevent engine compression braking.'

    Owners have been reporting that while in cruise control the engine/transaxle ECU will actually command a downshift to retard roadspeed going down a hill.

    Me..."What? Downshift a FWD or F/AWD vehicle and actually take advantage of engine compression
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Owners have been reporting that while in cruise control the engine/transaxle ECU will actually command a downshift to retard roadspeed going down a hill.

    That's not true for either of my Camrys ('04 with 4-speed auto and '05 with 5-speed auto). If descending a grade at highway speeds with the cruise control on, the car will remain in top gear. If the grade is steep enough, the car's road speed will increase above the set speed.

    ONLY by braking rather firmly will the transmission then downshift into 3rd (for the 4-speed unit) and 4th or 3rd (for the 5-speed unit). Of course, braking cancels the cruise control until the "resume" feature is activated.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,098
    >... engine/transaxle ECU will actually command a downshift to retard roadspeed going down a hill.
    ... the car will remain in top gear. If the grade is steep enough, the car's road speed will increase above the set speed.

    Is it the 2007 DBW model that downshifts? Your models act the way I want a car to do, even when cruise control is "off." I will move the lever to a lower gear if I want the car to downshift, and lose fuel economy in the process.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    I don't believe there's any difference for the '07s, if the transmission is working properly. The Camry has had drive-by-wire since the 2002 models, at least for the 4-cylinder engine.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    The issue of 1-2 second downshift delay/hesitation seems to exist across the industry, more prevalent for FWD and F/AWD but I see posts of these symptoms for Ford, VW, and Honda along with Toyota and Lexus.

    So my cruise control downshift statement may, or may not, have been taken from a Toyota or Lexus post.
  • Three days ago the problem just disapeared and there was very smoth shift in gears.
    However today I used my A/C (I haven't used it during these days) and I noticed that the problem came back.
    Any suggestions?
    Thanks.
  • I still have the same issue that you seemed to have. Most of the time the car does shift smoothly but it does seem on particularly hot days that the shift issue is most prominent. What seems to work for myself is to allow the car to idle for a few minutes - this seems to settle the hard shift somewhat. The only other thing that I can think of is a possible transmission fluid change. I was advised by several mechanics and technicians not to flush the transmission. I usually change the fluid every 20k miles. Hopes this helps. Best regards.
  • My daughter has a 2000 Camry with 95K miles. The check-engine light came on. She took it to the dealer who said she had the following codes:
    P0770 - Shift Solenoid E Malfunction
    P0773 - Shift Solenoid E Electical

    They suggested a new transmission. My daughter took it to a Transmission shop. They tried replacing an external solenoid. Didn't work. They dropped the pan and said there is metal in the fluid. Need to rebuild the transmission. The car runs fine, no shifting problems. He says it has to do with the Torque Converter. Symptoms would be poor gas milage. Said that the external solenoid filled with guck right away. So, is this a common occurance to have a Toyota with less than 100K miles and need a new transmission? I have had Honda's and no problems like this. Will cost $2200, including parts, labor and tax. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,667
    Very, very unusual, unless the fluid was never changed. Toyota and GM generally have the most reliable automatics.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "..unless the fluid was nver changed.."

    Yet another totally unjustified "pilot error" post. Factory "shill"??

    The factory doesn't REQUIRE, nor even recommend, that the ATF be flushed/drained/refilled on my 2001 AWD RX300, EVER...!!

    So I rather doubt if the Camry does.

    ATF can NEVER, by CAREFUL design, be the initial cause of a transaxle failure. ATF can only contribute once it is contaminated or overheated as a result of some failure mode, design flaw, of the transaxle.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    I hope you're not accusing mcdawgg of being a "factory shill?"

    His posts have always been forthright. No matter what the manual says, I think the common wisdom is still to drain and refill the auto tranny fluid at regular intervals, something like 30K to 60K miles. I've already done it once on my '04 Camry (47K miles currently).
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,098
    > not accusing mcdawgg of being a "factory shill?"
    His posts have always been forthright.

    Agree.
  • jhoneyjhoney Posts: 2
    98 camry, 4cyl,auto, car has a problem shifting into overdrive. have to let off the gas and push on the gas to get it to shift. it only happens when the car is getting warm the transmission shop says. they said they could not find anything wrong with it. they said they noticed the engine was losing power when this happens. they think the shifting problem has to do with the engine losing power. the car has 104,xxx miles. only things i had to replace was water pump,timing belt,hoses,thermostat,belts at 7x,xxx miles and just replace the catilytic converter at 103,xxx. the cat was replaced due to the flex pipe getting a hole in it.no codes show up on the engine. any help would be appreciated
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    It would not be altogether unusual for an I4 with that many miles to not have enough "GO" power to run at the low engine RPM required in order to operate satisfactorily in OD, most especially after a COLD start.

    Once the engine warms up and the "worn" compression rings expand to more completely seal the cylinder you will have more "go" power.

    How "comfortable" are you that the timing belt was/is properly installed? A few "cogs" off + or - can make a HUGE difference.
  • jhoneyjhoney Posts: 2
    i put it on and the car has always ran good.i was wondering if the timing might be off now. i was wondering if it might have jumped a tooth.we have close to 3x,xxx miles on the timing belt.i am thinking about taking it apart and checking it and installing a new one. might even just get rid of the car and get a new one.
  • i have a 2004 V6 Camry with 45000 miles and i want to do my first drain&refill, should i drop the pan and check the filter at this time
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,018
    A reporter aims to connect with a V6 Camry owner who has encountered quality problems, particularly with the car's six-speed transmission. If you have a relevant experience to share, please respond to jfallon@edmunds.com with a few words about your experience along with your daytime contact info and the model year of your Camry. Please respond no later than Monday, November 5, 2007.

    Thanks,
    Jeannine Fallon
    Corporate Communications
    Edmunds.com

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • rfg99rfg99 Posts: 2
    I'm planning on changing the tranny fluid in my '99 Camry V6 LE which has 60K miles on it. The manual recommends DEXRON III but I see Castrol makes a new Import Multi-vehicle ATF equal to DEXRON III(H) and a whole lot of other ATF fluids. Am I asking for trouble using this product in my '99 Camry?

    Any insight appreciated! :D
  • rfg99rfg99 Posts: 2
    I'm planning on changing the tranny fluid in my '99 Camry V6 LE which has 60K miles on it. The manual recommends DEXRON III but I see Castrol makes a new Import Multi-vehicle ATF equal to DEXRON III(H) and a whole lot of other ATF fluids. Am I asking for trouble using this product in my '99 Camry?

    Any insight appreciated! :D
  • I brought my 03 camry to the dealership for 30000 mi maintainess. The people at the dealership suggested me to change the transmission fluid, but I said no. I checked my service manual and it doesn't mention to change the fluid at 30000 mi or any milage. I opened the hood and there is a sticker says "No need to change transmission fluid" right beside the transmission fluid deep stick. I am kind of confused about this. I don't mind to spend some money to change the fluid, but on the other hand I don't want to waste my money. I really need your suggestions on this, I should follow the manufacturer's suggestion or the dealership's.

    Thank you in advance for any suggestions and opinions
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    I would use the dipstick to check the ATF condition at each oil change interval. If it remains clear and pink then ignore the dealer.
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