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Chevrolet Malibu Start Up/Ignition

I just purchased a used 2005 Chev Maxx with 12500 miles about 2 months ago. I've put about 3k miles on it. My problem has 2 issues. The first is when I go to start the car,after I turn the key and before the engine engages I get a really bad shake that rattles the whole car. This happens about 6 out of 10 times when I start it. The second issue is I get a periodic rattle in the right front. Here again it does not happen all of the time. I've had it into service and they couldn't find anything wrong. It's still doing both things. Anyone else having that problem? Any suggestions? Thanks, fmm06418
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Comments

  • My wife's 04 Malibu does the same thing on start up occasionally. Not as often as yours but with hers is it usually accompanied by a major transmission issue where it doesn’t want to shift and when it does the car jerks so hard it makes me glad I'm wearing a seatbelt.

    Had 2 different dealers attempt to solve these issues along with a steering problem but after performing items on TSBs, multiple software updates, and a new BCM the problems still remain. :(

    We love the Malibu and there is not a more loyal GM customer than myself but the (good natured) ribbing from my import driving in-laws is starting wear thin. :sick: Although my father-in-law is on a wait list for a Sky!
  • This is the first GM product I've had in 25 years. The last was a 67 Nova. I really like the way the car drives and the interior is very comfortable. Since I'm 6'4" the leg room is very important to me. As for the shaking when it starts and the intermitant rattles, I'm just keeping my fingures crossed and hope if it's something major, it will be fixed under warrenty.
  • billbbillb Posts: 14
    Mine shakes like this on start up sometimes too - twice this week already. My dealer says it is because the car has electronic ignition and I am holding the key down too long. I really dont know that I am and I try to be conscious of that on start up (when I remember) but it still happens.

    As for my other shaking problem, I took the car in Friday. The dealer says asphalt sealer was on the caliper and brakes and that caused them to stick. I don't know if that would cause my two incidents two weeks and 1000+ miles apart. They cleaned it off. We will see.

    The dealer also said the rotors and brakes were fine. They must not have road tested it because I still get a nice wobble when braking at higher speeds. Still only 21K.
  • mr_botsmr_bots Posts: 225
    Holding the key down too long? On the 04+ Malibus once the key is turned to "start" the PCM takes over and cranks until the engine starts or 4 seconds (Maybe lower). You can just turn the key to start and let go and it'll continue to crank or you can hold it at start all day and it'll still stop cranking once it hits 4 seconds or the engine stops. Also, your wobble when braking might be warped rotors.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,370
    >asphalt sealer

    What does that mean? Is it the tar from a road that got onto the the brakes? Or is it some undercoating they applied to the car?

    >Still only 21K

    The brakes will be fine until 36000 is passed. They they will find there is a problem from having been overheated, but it won't be covered by warranty.
  • redmaxxredmaxx Posts: 627
    The dealer also said the rotors and brakes were fine. They must not have road tested it because I still get a nice wobble when braking at higher speeds. Still only 21K.

    Good luck with this one. It was like pulling teeth getting my dealer to feel the problem. All the while, I'm thinking, "Do you not have any senses? How can you not feel that shaking?"

    On the bright side though, since they fixed it its been fine for 10K.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Posts: 1,740
    Be absolutely sure your tires are torqued correctly. I had this problem from time to time and every time I noticed it, it was because the tires had been severely mis-torqued.

    Fortunately once the tires were torqued properly, most of the shake went away. The brake rotors are indeed flimsy.
  • 04cad04cad Posts: 131
    Regarding the shaking when braking.... I have had this problem on a couple occasions and it usually starts after the dealership has had the wheels off for a rotation or other service. My opinion is the service tech isn't torquing the wheels with the proper sequence and torque when re installing the wheels which is warping the rotors causing the vibration.
  • paopao Posts: 1,867
    you are correct..it appears that the wheels must be properly torqued or you may experience some warping..and that vibration......insist they are hand tighten and torqued...and not with an air gun
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,370
    Many shops don't like to have to use a real torque wrench to tighten lugs. They talk fast like a teenager caught using all kinds of excuses.

    When they use a torque wrench they should use the star pattern and go around twice. If I don't trust the shop, I come home driving gently on the brakes, and jack the car up at each corner to take the weight off and loosen and retighten with my own torque wrench. Current rotors on LeSabre have 65K on them. The wheels have been off every 6-7K miles for rotation and other times on my own.
  • billbbillb Posts: 14
    >asphalt sealer

    What does that mean? Is it the tar from a road that got onto the the brakes? Or is it some undercoating they applied to the car?

    >Still only 21K

    The brakes will be fine until 36000 is passed. They they will find there is a problem from having been overheated, but it won't be covered by warranty.


    Tar I suppose. The problem hasn't happened in the last 10 days.

    I figure the same thing with the 36K mark. I will take it back before then and invite them on a test drive if need be. The local dealer is right off the the highway.
  • thorfamthorfam Posts: 2
    We have a problem on start up randomly. The car shakes and runs on without starting. Turning it off and re starting almost always works fine. It is an 04 maxx LS. We have less than 5K left on warranty and it will not reproduce this problem often enough for the dealer to attempt service. The dealer thinks it may be a fuel problem but can't find anything wrong. Help.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Posts: 1,740
    is it from a cold start, a lukewarm start, or a hot start?

    Maxxes and many cars have trouble starting if you run the engine a short distance, then park the car. The problem seems to be incorrect temperature analysis. The ignition and fuel system get confused and send the wrong mixture to the cylinders.

    This problem has showed up on an old prism and camry I used to own.
  • shadow5599shadow5599 Posts: 101
    "many cars have trouble starting if you run the engine a short distance, then park the car."

    That's just an accepted part of life here in an area where we have such huge changes in temperature season to season. In the period of a given year we deal with a range of outside temperature from -40C in winter to +40C in summer. I'm always amazed ANYthing works at -40.
    If you've ever had to sit in a car that's sat outside in -40 overnight, you'll know what I mean. If you havent, then you cant imagine it. Factor in windchill and we can get to -50, 60 or lower.
    My past challenge has included making a carbeurated engine with an electric choke work ok for that wide range of temperatures.... yikes! That makes newer cars look very good.

    Just so you dont get feeling too bad for us here, today it's +30C, which equates to HOT.
  • e2helpere2helper Posts: 1,002
    BTW I saw an update in dealer info regarding complaint on starting - where it seems like starter staying engaged after engine running. Nothing available yet but looks like calibration update expected in June. I will keep an eye out for updates.
  • shadow5599shadow5599 Posts: 101
    The starter seeming to stay engaged for a few seconds too long, I've had that happen several times since I've owned the car, about 2 months now.
  • thorfamthorfam Posts: 2
    This is probably a better description of my problem. The starter staying engaged. It will not always keep running under these conditions without turning the key off and re starting. It seems to happen most often with a cold start.
  • I really need some good advice here. I have a 2001 chevy malibu with roughly 100,000 that I just bought And like so many others on here I im haveing problems starting the car. It cranks but will not turn over no matter what i do. The only way i could get it to start is to spray starting fulid where the air filter is ( maybe it is flooding) I think it may be the ignition system or the fuel system but to be perfectly honest i dont know much about cars.Please help! :confuse:
  • maxxindmaxxind Posts: 22
    Malibugirl2001, depending on how recently you mean when you said you "just bought" the car, I might want to go back to your dealer if you bought it from a dealer. If you bought it privately, or if it's no longer covered by any warranty from a selling dealer, I'd take it to a good shop to have this trouble diagnosed. This is not going to be a do-it-yourself repair, in all likelihood.

    If I were guessing based on what you say, I'd say you may have a bad fuel pump.
  • well I just bought the car from a private party so i im sol but i have been reading on here and i think it is either a theft system chip or maybe a fuel in jector problem. at any rate i have no clue and i will probaly have to go to the shop. i was just hopeing that i could figure it out and not have to pay that much
  • mdp35submdp35sub Posts: 4
    Have a 2005 Classic 35500 miles. At times car will turn over, but will not crank. After trying for several minutes it starts. Noticed this issue happens with the A/C on and when its hot out. Anyone had this problem or knows what causes it. Dealer checked it, but said problem could not be located unless this happened while in in their care.
  • maxxindmaxxind Posts: 22
    It may be vapor-locking. This could be your problem if the car is hardest to start after it's been sitting for a fairly short time when you try to re-start it. Vapor lock is caused by excessive heat under the hood causing the fuel in the fuel lines to vaporize after you shut the car down.

    Some gasoline is more prone to do this than others, and you can't really generalize by brand names because it varies by region and station, so if you have usually been buying your gas at one place, try buying it somewhere else. I believe that super unleaded has less tendency to vaporize as well, so you might try that as a test. Try to find gasoline without any ethanol in it if that's possible in your area.

    A solution to this problem (if it's vapor lock) is to have the radiator fan set up to run for a few minutes after shutting the car off in hot weather. I don't know if the computer in your car can be programmed to do this, but there are other ways it can be done, such as with a relay. But since you're under warranty still (barely) I'd stick with the dealer at this point and mention the vapor lock possibility, and see if they have any ideas for how to keep the fan running.

    If the no-start ever occurs when the engine is cool (car has been sitting for several hours, even in hot weather), then it's likely not vapor lock.
  • prdmprdm Posts: 145
    Vapor lock no longer an issue with fuel injection systems.
  • shadow5599shadow5599 Posts: 101
    And what may I ask is a 05 "classic".
    Is it a 05 new design or is it a 04 old design?
  • e2helpere2helper Posts: 1,002
    Chevy Classic was the name used for the old version of Malibu after the new version came out in 2004
  • mdp35submdp35sub Posts: 4
    2005 Classic is Chevys rental fleet car. Its a Malibu with a different name. Figure that? A 2003 body style Malibu with 2005 mechanics. :)
  • shadow5599shadow5599 Posts: 101
    Then I gather its a 03, mechanics and all. 3.1 litre engine, hydralic power steering, NON epsilon platform, etc.
    Aboslutely NOT comparable in any way to the new generation of Malibus. You may notice a lack of complaints on the new generation of Malibu, a much different and much better vehicle. If you've driven both, you'll know what I mean.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 873
    Yes, no 3.5 L in the Classic.
  • I had the vapor-locking issue with my 2004 Classic Malibu (basically a 2003) last summer, but it would do it when I stopped at a stop sign off of the interstate in Macon (200 miles from home--Chattanooga). It shut off, and I had trouble getting it to start. After stopping and starting for about a mile, I finally pulled into a Cracker Barrel and called the Chevy service station to pick it up. A week later, they said they found nothing wrong with it, and it was fine for the rest of the summer. This summer, it's doing about the same thing except it starts losing power while driving on the interstate (after a couple of hours on the road). In order to accelerate (and sometimes to maintain speed), I have to push excessively on the gas pedal, and of course the RPM jumps and all that nice stuff. I noticed this problem when driving back from Savannah in May, but it was just losing power and shut off when getting off of the interstate and pulling into a gas station. A little cooldown and some fuel injection cleaner, and it was fine. Today (on the way down to Savannah), it started losing power and shaking severely (like I had a flat tire or a couple of flats) after a couple of hours. Again, fuel treatments and a cool down, and it was fine until we hit Macon (where my car loves to end up--their service station!). I'm renting a car for the rest of the weekend until I can pick it up Monday since they told me they will have to drive it for a while to find the problem. Anyone else experience this? If they can't find the problem, I'll leave it there until they do :mad: :lemon: !
  • I have a 2002 malibu with 119,000 miles and yesterday it just died on me no warnin just acted like it ran out of gas and quit. i checked the fuel pressure at the rail and there was none, checked the pump to find that it was not kicking on. So today i changed out the pump and filter put it all back together and still no start, no fuel at the rail no pump rnning. I checked the voltage at the relay and im getting 12v in i replaced the relay and still nothing. At the pump wiing harness i am only getting 5 volts not sure if thats god or bad but i need help cant seem to figure out where to go from here :sick: :lemon:
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