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Toyota Camry AC Questions

24

Comments

  • manual type (3 knobs) where you set the fan speed manually
  • stlpike07stlpike07 Posts: 218
    Does the fan speed change constantly, or when you accelerate and slow down.

    When you accelerate, for lack of a better term, it sends more "juice" or power throughout the vehicle.

    I've noticed on many different cars that when you accelerate, and the rpm's go up, that the speed of the AC fans goes up to the maximum speed.
  • no, there does not appear to be a connection to the accelerator. The air speeds up and slows down even with the cruise on at highway speeds or sitting at idle. It worked fine yesterday but today it is once again speeding up and slowing down. The dealership told me it does not have a resistor but a new thing called an AC accelerator.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    What you actually have is a PWM, Pulse Width Modulation, "switching" blower motor driver. Basically the power is switched on and off VERY rapidly and the speed is determined by the duty-cycle, on vs off time, of the pulsing. Except at full speed there is no PWM switching.
  • pktrrmpktrrm Posts: 2
    My 2000 Camry was blowing ice-cold air. Immediately after I changed out one of the headlights it stopped working. When pressed, the AC button light turns green but the AC clutch won't engage. I think it's probably just a fuse, but I don't know where it is... can someone please tell me where the AC fuse is located on a 2000 Camry?

    Thanks in advance!
    Chris
  • pdnotespdnotes Posts: 2
    My 02 Camry had exactly the same problem - stopped blowing cold & the AC light blinked. Toyota actually issued a service bulletin for this condition(TSB EL011-05), which involved the the magnetic clutch relay. We replaced it, and the problem is solved. I believe the part cost around $60, and was so easy to install that I actually did it myself.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    There are two possibilities. The OAT, Outside Air Temperature, sensor is usually mounted on/near the front bumper just in front of the condensor/radiator "stack".

    Open that connection and the OAT would seemingly go below freezing. The A/C is totally disabled if the OAT is near or below freezing.

    The second possibilty is the refrigerant pressure switch. On my car it is mounted just below the passenger side front headlight. A poor or open connection there would most definitely cause your symptoms.
  • rtemplertemple Posts: 1
    I have an 06 Camry w/o climate control. A/C is blowing only warm air. The compressor is engaged and does not cycle on and off. A/C control knobs light up but when you turn the temperature knob counterclock wise ( colder) at about 10:00 position the knob light goes out?
  • I have a 2000 Camry with a AC fan problem. At first the fan would only work on high speed.Then it finelly stopped working all together.The fuse is good. The green light in the AC button is lite but no fan. Any ideas?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check the blower resistor, which is by the blower motor squirrel cage, passenger compartment.
  • in_buddyin_buddy Posts: 4
    Hello Techs,

    I recently bought used 05 Camry LE with 44k miles on it. I have little to none about car knowledge. I have noticed even if I run my AC on max for an hour it only makes temperature ok not cool. Does that sounds fine? I guess something is wrong. Can any of you please suggest what to troubleshoot and what could be wrong?

    Thanks in advance.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    No, that doesn't sound fine.

    Take it to a shop to have them check your freon levels and pressures. They'll also check that your pressure switches are working correctly, turning your compressor on and off correctly.

    Toyota dealership can do that, or a repair shop that handles air conditioners.

    You may have a leak, which let your freon leak out and is now too low. They can also check for leaks.
  • in_buddyin_buddy Posts: 4
    Thanks a lot.

    Couldn't that a AC filter issue? Just another thought by someone.

    Thanks again for your technical advice.
  • in_buddyin_buddy Posts: 4
    No response..??
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The filter is not a credible cause of the problem. The instructions to replace it are in the owners manual, it's behind the glove compartment, takes about 5 minutes to put a new one in. Do it if you want.

    You run it an hour on max recirculate and the vehicle isn't cold, you have some freon flow related problem. Get it to a shop who can diagnose and repair AC issues.

    You need a set of gauges to get even a basic understanding of pressures, an understanding of the principles of freon gas to liquid to gas conversion, the effect of pressures and pressure differentials which effects flow through and orifice, and leak kits to do it right. Some make the mistake of just throwing a can of freon in, which can cause problems. You can actually overcharge the system, preventing the compressor from pulling down the lowside pressure low enough, which then prevents enough flow to provide enough cooling. There is a set of proper pressures (on both the low side and the high side), that need to be in the system for it to work correctly. It's not really a DYI'er.
  • in_buddyin_buddy Posts: 4
    Thanks a lot.
  • redfieldredfield Posts: 2
    i have a problem with the heater in my 2007 Camry Hybrid.
    When it is very cold outside ,5 to 20 degrees, it gets to warm
    after a short time when the thermestat is at it's lowest 65 degrees.
    I have to keep turning the temp to "lo", to shut off the heat and then
    it gets too cold and I have to go back to 65. I think the problem would
    be elliminated if I were able to set the temp at 63-64, which I can't.
  • dutildutil Posts: 1
    Hi there, I have a toyota camry 1990 4 cyl and 4 wheel drive. when i drive in town and let it go to slow down there is a sound like banging. Was wondering if it could be the rear end. Do I need to jack the car to check the lvl of the oil of the rear end?
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    The Camry is front-wheel-drive car, so there is no differential in the rear, and therefore no oil level to check there. It's hard to diagnose what your problem may be over the internet without more specific information.
  • I have a 2004 Toyota Camry XLE it has 126000 miles on it. My AC light started flashing the other day and I am assuming that this means that I need the AC recharged or something like that. Would I be right in assuming that or is that even something that could be done? Or might it be something more serious? If someone could let me know that would be great.

    Thank you
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I have a 2004 Toyota Camry XLE it has 126000 miles on it. My AC light started flashing the other day and I am assuming that this means that I need the AC recharged or something like that. Would I be right in assuming that or is that even something that could be done? Or might it be something more serious? If someone could let me know that would be great.

    Yes, that could be done, and
    Yes, it could be more serious than a simple recharge

    That AC freon system is a closed system, so if it is low on freon then it leaked out somewhere....and will leak out again if you fill it up with a recharge.

    The question always is, how long will it take to leak out if I just refill it, and nobody can tell you that without looking at the vehicle and doing a freon leak test on it. But if you go to that trouble to identify the failing component, then you should go ahead and fix it.
  • thank you for getting back to me I will have it checked out.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    I would think the A/C system would need recharging, but this suggests there could be a leak somewhere in the system. Any competent shop (doesn't have to be a Toyota dealer) should be able to diagnose and fix the problem. The cost will depend greatly on where the leak, if any, is located.
  • I previously leased a 2005 Camry Le which I enjoyed immensely, and about a month ago, I leased a 2009 as the other was over.

    I have noticed that in the 2009, when it is a hot day, and I turn the center dial to MAX A/C that the left dial indicator light turns on and is set for RECIRCULATION. I know that this is a normal function but I noticed that it takes up to 2 minutes with Hot Air blowing before Cold Air is actually blowing out of the vents. After that, the A/C works fine.

    In my 2005, with the same type of settings, Cold Air was blowing in less than a minute.

    Has anyone experienced the same thing, and does anyone know why? I spoke to three different dealers including the one I leased from, and received three different answers: it's normal, it's not normal and needs service, it is the computer sensors controlling the A/C temperature. Fyi, I have the Manual A/C version.

    I am taking the car back to the originating dealer to check out the A/C but I want more info and did not like the three different answers that I received.

    Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    It seems that with only about a minute difference in the time cold air is coming out, I don't think the dealer is going to find anything wrong. But it doesn't hurt to check, because the car is new and under warranty.

    To me, it seems other factors would be more important, such as the outside air temperature and if the car is parked in direct sun or in the shade. Plus it's possible some A/C design changes were made when the car itself was redesigned for the 2007 model year.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Assuming your previous Camry had automatic climate control the blower would not normally come on, or on but not up to full speed, until the refrigerant had cooled the evaporator down to a level wherein you would not "feel" hot airflow if the blower came on earlier.

    Most manual systems will turn on the blower instantly and until a few minutes have elapsed for the refrigerant to be compressed, cooled to a liquid, and then converted back into a gas in the process of cooling the evaporator, you will always get relative warm system airflow.

    In any case it might be a good idea to have the dealer modify the default factory settings such that the system does not go into recirculate mode automatically when you first start the A/C cooling system on a HOT sunshiny day or when you use max cooling mode.

    At time when you enter the car on a hot day and the interior atmosphere is HOTTER then the outside it is a good idea to have the system in FRESH airflow mode, turn the system to max cooling and the blower full up. After a few moments when the HOTTER atmosphere has mostly been exhausted from the cabin then switch to recirculate for substantially improved cooling capacity/efficiency.
  • Thanks 210delray for the reply. I just came back from the dealer, and like you said, he found nothing wrong, so my next question is whether this is characteristic of the model compared to my 2005, and the Service Advisor could not answer.

    I then went to a dealership sales manager who was involved in my sale, and he stated that he noticed something like that in his 2010 demo but that is as far as he could tell me, either.

    You would think that he or the service people would know a definitive answer but the best I have received so far is your suggestion that maybe there was an A/C design change.

    I guess I will have to investigate further. If anyone else knows the definitive answer, I would definitely appreciate it.

    Thanks again 210delray for pointing me in a direction.
  • Wwest I just read your post after I responded to 210delray, thanks for your helpful info, too. My previous Camry did not have automatic climate control but manual.

    As I mentioned, I just came back from the dealer, and they responded there was nothing wrong but obviously did not or could not respond in the detailed manner that you undertook.

    That being said, the manual suggests for MAX A/C turn the center dial to MAX A/C and then the left dial to HI. Recirc mode will automatically activate in this mode.

    If I understand you, your suggestion in my case would be to try and move the center dial up one knotch from MAX, and put the fan at MAX while leaving the windows open for awhile to expel the hot air.

    Again thanks to all of you so far for the suggestions and help. I do appreciate it,
  • frb263frb263 Posts: 3
    I have noticed that the AC in my 2005 Camry LE was significantly stronger than it is in my 2009 Camry. I think my 2009 unit is working correctly, but it takes longer to cool the car on a hot day. The temperature blowing from the vents doesn't seem as cold, and the velocity of air is not a great as the 2005.
    I haven't noticed the delay you refer to, nor have I taken it to the dealer. (I don't think they could diagnose a flat tire, much less an AC problem). I checked the cabin air filter, was OK. It seems strange that there would be that much difference between these model years.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    If your new Camry has automatic climate control and your old one had manual control that may well be the difference.

    To get maximum, QUICK, cabin cooldown if you have the automatic system the best procedure is to turn the system to the lowest temperatrue setting, the blower should automatically go to MAX speed, over-ride or leave the airflow mode in FRESH for long enough to EXHAUST the HOT cabin atmosphere and then switch the system to recirculate to increase the AC efficiency.

    Once the cabin atmosphere and surfaces are cooled down then lower the blower speed to a more comfortable sound level.

    If you want to REALLY improve AC efficiency then go to Home Depot and buy/install a water flow shutoff valve to insert in the hose to the heater core. The A/C can then be left to its own "devices" since the reheat/remix mode is now non-functional.

    FE will also improve a bit if you use these procedures.
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