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Toyota Camry AC Questions

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Comments

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Suspect blower resistor.

    There's a 4 prong connector, pull that apart and measure the resistance between pins on the resistor.

    This will be a little hard to explain, but the plug is oblong. Holding it so that the length is horizontal, on one side you'll have pins 1 and 3, and on the other side you'll have pins 2 and 4.

    measuring the resistance from 1 to 3, it should be 1.74 ohms.
    measuring the resistance from 2 to 4, it should be .38 ohms
    and if you are able to figure out which pins are 2 and 3 (cadicorner diagonal pins), it should be 1.12 ohms.

    If you don't get those resistances, replace the blower resistor.
  • edmund2460edmund2460 Posts: 293
    edited July 2010
    Need some advice please on whether to trust what the dealer is telling me..

    2003 XLE V6 with 94K. Over a couple of years the auto A/C had not been switching correctly between air and heat during the transition period to spring in March (we live in SC). It just would not heat when the outside temp. was in the 60's (yes the wife requires it). The first time we asked at the dealers they said something like it was designed like that (as if the car decided when we needed heat). Anyway this spring, it just would not heat, even when set on max heat, this time we were told it was due to a 'thermo regulator valve' or the mechanism that operated the valve that let the heat in. The advisor said it would cost $290 and also 'aren't you glad it's not the whole unit which costs $820.

    When I took it in today I'm told it is the $820 part, he descibed it as the heater head. I have a feeling it encompasses the cheaper part that was first recommended. The advisor today tells me they were 'either wrong in the spring, or wrong now (can't believe he'd say that). Advice anyone, thanks..

    (The unit was set permanently on A/C this spring and cools fine.)
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2010
    Looked in the factory service manual for you (my words in ()).

    For the symptom Temp Contol - no warm air.....

    The sequence of items to check/repair/replace are:
    - Engine coolant volume (ie...is there hot water that is flowing thru the system)
    - Air mix damper servo assembly (this is a doorman who moves a damper door. Like there is a refrigerator on one side, oven on the other. It moves the damper from one side to the other to choose how much hot or cold gets mixed together)
    - Cooler Thermistor #1 (monitors the temperature, sends info back to control assembly)
    - A/C control assembly (the brains, and the damper)
    - Heater radiation sub-assembly (a little radiator, which takes the hot water and heats the air)
    - wiring harness
  • edmund2460edmund2460 Posts: 293
    edited July 2010
    Thanks for the quick reply kiawah. It looks like the first diagnosis we had in the spring was 'replace air mix damper servo assembly' and now we have moved on lower down the line to control assembly (my ticket says replace ac control head). Apparently this came from running a diagnosis. Could this be overkill, instead of just replacing the doorman they're doing the whole front entrance (so to speak).

    This has been giving intermittent trouble long before, but it was never written up or correctly diagnosed then.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2010
    I do my own maintenance on all of our vehicles, but have never had to tear the dash apart in a Toyota (did my old Vette once, but that was a story in itself). If this was an extra car, where you had the luxery of time, you could take the dash apart and do a lot of diagnosing to find out exactly what small part was binding or not working correctly.

    Repair shops don't have the time, and you wouldn't want to pay their hourly rate either for them to do that. So they end up swapping out major FRU's (as we call them in the computer business - field replaceable units). You have a problem with your printer, you just swap the whole thing out, no matter how small the problem might have been.

    So they get your heating/ac diagnostics down to 4,5,6 major pieces that the techs can replace, and unfortunately those parts are larger conglomerates of many parts, so they can cost quite a bit. It also means less parts to handle, store, and inventory in the parts distribution channels.

    Dealerships/Repair shops have a tough job. Customers are sitting there waiting for the cars, mad that they are inconvenienced and have to even be there in the first place, and mad that they are going to pay what they feel are outrageous prices for labor and parts.

    So yes the parts are costly, but if they didn't fix it this way you'd have hours of labor instead that you'd have to pay for.
  • edmund2460edmund2460 Posts: 293
    edited July 2010
    Thanks, last questions..., is the damper door a separately replaceable part? I remember the service people distinctly telling me in March that boy you better be glad we don't have to replace the whole unit just the damper. Some one else bought the dealership so the old crew is gone. I know how it works with electronics, but it seems like Toyota could have had the replaceable units down to smaller parts here rather than $1000 (which is what it will cost) piece. I was so glad I left the Ford days behind when I bought this and now I'm paying the same amount as I did on my Sable for A/C and it's not even the compressor. I'm going to have someone else look at it. Do you recommend that? Should I stick to a Toyota dealership or general A/C licensed tech?. Thanks again..
  • swanjswanj Posts: 1
    I have 07 camry LE with single climate control. With the A/C on you can tell a significant difference in temperture from the driver side and passenger side. The passenger side is really cold and works great but the driver side just puts out heat with no mixture of cold. i tried looking online for some manual to remove the dash so i can look back there and see if a valve is stuck or something but it makes no sense since i do not have dual climate control. i
  • mv52mv52 Posts: 4
    I've had the same problem on my '03 and '06 Camry, as well as other cars. Simple solution: it's low on refrigerant.
  • edchkedchk Posts: 1
    My air con suddenly act funny. The driver side is cold as normal but the passenger side was pumping warm air on a hot day.

    I was told it only have one heat exchange so if driver side have cold air then pump and others are working. My garage take it apart and cannot find what is wrong. Any suggestions?
  • adamw812adamw812 Posts: 32
    My 2008 Camry LE, has an offensive odor as if there is mold in/on the evaporator. The car is still under warranty, it has only 12,000 miles on it. Should I take it in and have them argue with me? Will they fix it without an issue? I have tried Ozium in the air intake at the base of the windshield and it is such a powerful odor of urine, the Ozium has a hard time combating it.
  • jomarexjomarex Posts: 4
    I took it to the mechanic before it got hot enough to need the A/C. He says it has a full charge of refrigerant, and it never quit blowing really cold the whole time he burned up a lot of gas, idling it to see if it would quit.

    Last year, it would blow hot intermittently; now, it only blows cold for a minute or two after I start the cold engine, and blows hot the rest of the day while I keep driving around. It appears that if I let the engine cool down enough, then it will blow cold for a minute, then hot. It's only been hot outside the last couple of days, though.

    I have fixed a lot of things on cars, but know nothing at all about A/C...

    any ideas for me?
    thanks
  • nightfall1nightfall1 Posts: 1
    edited May 2011
    i recently bought a 40000milles 07 camry le the ac unit was not working i took it to the repair shop the unit was flushed and gas replaced but i noticed any time i switch the ac the engine drops like the compressor is sucking the life out of the engine the compressor finally broke down after a day i had it replaced but still the dropping of engine power was still on i used it for several months and again the compressor is dead please advice me on what to do.
    i need all the information i can get i leave in a remote area where the service personnel dont really know a lot about the 07 camry if i can get any advice i could supervise in fixing the problem
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Toyota often replaces the evaporator with this condition but even if they do the condition will most likely return.

    First, DO NOT allow the A/C compressor to run unless actual cooling, initial cool down, is REQUIRED. A/C dehumidification of the cabin airflow results in the evaporator, think SPONGE, being left saturated with moisture once the A/C is switched off.

    Dark, moist, dank A/C plenum, perfect breeding area for the microbes whose "leavings" produce that rather horrid mould and mildew odor.

    In the mean time it helps, really helps, if you can leave the windows lowered, even slightly during times the car is parked under shelter. That allows the accumulated moisture to evaporate and be flushed out of the cabin.

    Many upscale vehicles now have a UV light mounted within the A/C plenum to combat the microbe breeding. Toyota has experimented over the years, since '91, with several anti-microbe, fungicide, coating on the ~10,000 sq. inches of evaporator surface area. These have either been found to be detrimental to human health or wash away too quickly.
  • My 2005 Camry is blowing hot air with the indicator light flashing. I have checked other online forum early this summer (May) and following the suggestion, I replaced the clutch relay (placed in the fuse box under the hood) and after done that the AC went to back normal. Then just last week, the AC broke again. I unplugged the clutch relay and put it back on, then the AC started working just fine. However, yesterday, the AC stopped working again. Does anybody have any idea what's wrong with my AC? By the way, it also seems like the AC is more likely to broke when outside temperature is hot.
  • Hi: the car is a '98 camry le, 4cyl with 95k on it. a couple of months ago the AC began to get weak and i was hearing a noise that rose with engine speed, then fell as the tranny shifted. It goes on when the AC clutch engages. Goes off when the clutch disengages. As mentioned, AC output is weak now.

    Local shop says compressor, probaby the bearings, is going bad and quotes me roughly $900 to replace compressor and drier, and maybe an expansion valve.

    Questions: does this diagnosis sound correct and does the rough estimate seem appropriate? Since we are going into fall and I've dropped about $2,350 into this car in the past year I thought I'd wait to spring. (previous work was oil pump seals, water pump, timing belt, starter, battery and new tires)

    Thanks.

    EliotB
    Annandale, VA
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Your engine is "threatening" to overheat and the A/C is disabled automatically.
  • vinbetvinbet Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 99 solara, read about blending doors,and switches, and vacuum lines and after I spent many hours and scraped knuckles found nothing! As a shot in the dark I tried one of those cheat Walmart/autozone 134 recharge cans..... Worked great for the rest of the season, come to find out it was just low... It's starting to get warm again and same thing, thinking I had it all figured out, tried this agian... All I found was two empty cans and no ac.... After looking further I found the actual problem. The thinner line (liquid line) coming from the firewall to the dryer has come loose from the clips and was rubbing on e belt creating the leak. $85 from the dealer waiting on it now. This is why I'm back on the Internet ... Looking for an easier way to replace this line... Lots of bending and spinning to get the old one out. Worried about damaging the new one when I put it in. Also question if I should replace the dryer since I'm there anyway???
  • I have a 2004 toyota camry and every time we drive for more than 30 minutes it stops blowing cold air,but if we leave it sit for about 4 hours and leave again it will be ok for about another 30 minutes.This happens every time we get in the car.Can anyone help me with this.
    Thank you.
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