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Toyota Avalon Brakes, ABS, VSC, etc.

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Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,057
    I would guess that you've had a failure in one of the circuit of the dual-circuit brake master cylinder; also you could have a small brake fluid leak---just enough to admit air to the system but not enough to show a conspicuous drop in fluid level.

    By all means, don't drive this car anymore, and have the system checked.

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  • At a stoplight the brake pedal sinks slowly to the bottom travel limit in about 10 seconds. The Toyota dealer (which is rated D - for customer service) said that was normal. I complained to Toyota corporate in Torrence, and they referred me back to the dealer. Toyota can not, or will not tell me what is the allowable 'fade' but I believe this exceeds any acceptable amount. The car has 19,000 miles, one owner, garaged in a desert climate. Sounds like an internal leak in the master cylinder to me, maybe I'll put a kit in it...since the dealer won't. It's under extended warranty by the way.
  • popsavalonpopsavalon Posts: 231
    This is the sort of dealer incompetence that drives vehicle owners crazy. With only 19000 miles and extended warranty, you should not be guessing and throwing money at the problem (similar problem on my low mileage vehicle required complete master cylinder replacement, under warranty). There must be another reputable dealer within a reasonable driving distance, I would make phone calls until I found one.

    Somebody out there must still want to have satisfied customers for future business.
  • what kind of brake pad should i use ceramic or metallic? best reasonable all season tire
  • helanacchelanacc Posts: 1
    edited March 2011
    I have a 2006 Toyota Avalon Touring model. Both my gas and brake pedal have an annoying squeak to them when you are driving. It is coming from inside. Is there a spot to lubricate or W-D 40 to stop the squeak? Is anyone else having this problem?

    thanks,
  • robsisrobsis Posts: 160
    To prevent noise, I've always used the OE pads from Toyota.

    Tires are a personal thing...I've seen people say a set is noisy when others say they aren't...it could be related to hearing. I love my Michelins; however, some think they are too pricy. A good place to start for tires is Consumer Reports, then ask at a reputable tire shop. Careful just to ask for a recommendation, as I used to work at a tire shop and they always recommended what was on spiff that month...
  • im having the same problem were you able to figure anything out?
  • BRAKE QUESTION: My husband just put on brake shoes and can't seem to get the brakes bled. Can someone help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,057
    Why would he need to bleed the brakes? Did he also do wheel cylinders on the rear brakes?

    In any event, if he opened up the hydraulic system, he'll probably have to start by bleeding the master cylinder, if indeed he can't get a firm pedal by using conventional means.

    Although this car has ABS, no special procedure for bleeding the ABS system is necessary on this vehicle.

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  • cpkdrcpkdr Posts: 1
    I'm looking at a 95 Avalon with 266K miles. Needs brakes (shimmy when stopping) and a windshield wiper motor. Also, I can smell what seems like coolant with the heat on. The guy wants $1200 for the car, but mileage and other potential problems scare me a bit... Seems to drive smoothly and I like the FWD for winter... any thoughts??
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,057
    edited November 2011
    Well let's do the math here...sounds like you'll need a wiper motor, brake pads and rotors, and a new heater core.

    Opposed to that we should look at the value of a 95 Avalon in good condition that doesn't need any of this stuff.

    Buying a Good Used Avalon That Needs No Serious Repairs

    so let's be generous and say that you could buy a really nice '95 Avalon for about $3000 with none of these issues.

    REPAIR COSTS to the $1200 car:

    Wiper Motor R&R = $300

    New brake pads, new rotors (good quality) = $450

    R&R heater core = $800

    Let's round it off and say $1500 in repairs + $1200 asking = $2700.

    MY CONCLUSION:

    Since you NEED all these things, and can't skip any of them, I'd say the car is not worth buying, and, in fact, is actually worth nothing but scrap metal at this point.

    Now if you do your own repairs, the equation changes substantially, to about 1/2 the amount, or around $800, for parts.

    STILL a doubtful enterprise, as the miles are so high.

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  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    In my experience tire noise rises dramatically after about 8-10,000 miles.
  • neil5neil5 Posts: 118
    I have had my 2006 LTD for many years and tires. I had Bridgestone before and wennt back to Michelins. The car used to pull to the left despite alignment and then went back to michelins and was like new no pull. Stay with the michelins on this car
  • ag713ag713 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 avalon and do not have a mechanic or work on cars myself. My ABS/check engine light is on. Also, need struts and brake job. I feel when a person can not tell you the labor rates (dealership) look out. I live in Houston texas. I am looking for about what I should be paying for this and if u wld recommend where I sld go (i.e. pep boys, dealership, brake check, etc.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,057
    I'd go to an independent garage. The dealer is very expensive as a rule, with higher labor rates, and the chain stores are spotty in quality--some might be good at this location, and terrible at that location.

    Are you anywhere near these people. I don't know them but they seem to get rave reviews:

    http://www.keyautowerks.com/

    At any rate, this is the kind of place you should look for---where they won't oversell you.

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