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Toyota Avalon Brakes, ABS, VSC, etc.



  • I have a 1998 toyota avalon with 151,000 miles on it. MY ABS light comes on after the driving the car for about 5 minutes. The TRAC light also begins to flash at about 1.5 second intervals. I took the car to a toyota dealership, They indicated that the actuator needed replacing at a cost of $1300. I asked for the diagnostics. They indicated that the car is throwing codes 21 -24 as well as 43. I kinda sensed that the technican was guesssing. I can't explain why but he did nto seem committed to his diagnosis. has anyone else had similar issues and if so, were you told that the actuator need replacement?

    Any help would be most appreciated :

  • kman20kman20 Posts: 1
    did you ever get this resolved? what was the problem? I have same issue, and mechanic can not figure it out.
  • I am working on a friends car and they are having a problem with the brakes locking up with out appling any pedal pressure. So far I replaced the pads and the drivers side calipar it seemed to be sticking when I first jacked it up. After bleeding
    the system and test driving low and behold I still have the same trouble.
    The power brake booster seems to pass its operational checks. I have never heard
    of this problem before any ideas on troubleshooting.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Traction Control...??

    Remove the ABS pumpmotor fuse temporarily to see.
  • I am going to see if I cant locate the fuse and try that.
    The weather is bad so I may not mess with it for a day or two.
    That is what I need is a starting point.
  • ballawayballaway Posts: 3
    Hey Guy's and Gal's I found out on the weekend that there is a Plug in Module for the Avalon GXI Mk3 2005 model that throws the ABS System into Bleed Mode only service technicians have this module could this be you problem?
  • ballawayballaway Posts: 3
    Could be a lot different, if you have ABS System you mst open the bleed valve before pushing back the piston otherwise you could damage the ABS sytem.
    also you need to use two spaners to remove the lower caliper bolt, one open ender on the locking nut and one on the bolt. Also on the 2005 GXI Mk3 you would need the Technicians Module to throw the ABS System into Bleed Mode if you don't have one then apparently you can't bleed the brakes on completion so I am told if anyone knows different please let me know?
  • ballawayballaway Posts: 3
    Water can get into your braking system, as Brakefluid is Aquascopic it absorbs moisture (Water). Any good mechanic should have a Brake Fluid moisture content checker if this says it has moisture change it, simple decission.
    If you don't change it you system could gas up under heavy braking because the boiling point of water is only 100 deg C, and the boiling point of dot 4 fluid is 400 deg C. Gas Up means your brakes would not work at all on first push after sustained braking such as decending a steep winding road. this is caused by the steam created which is compressable.
    I have had this happen in a Camry Taxi where the fluid was not flushed completly but pads were changed.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    A simpler way is to raise both driven wheels off the ground, start the engine, shift into drive, and let TC, or ABS if you also apply light braking, put the system in "bleed" mode.
  • delledelle Posts: 2
    This question concerns a 1996 Toyota Avalon with about 87,000 miles on it. Until an incident today, the brakes were working normally. After traveling a few miles and having stopped at a few stop signs and traffic signals, I approached a red light at about 30 mph. I applied the brakes. Instead of the brake pedal encountering resistance after being depressed about an inch or two, it went all the way to the floor before encountering resistance. The brakes engaged at that point and I was able to stop the car by pressing down harder than normal. The "BRAKE" light went on. I then pulled into a parking lot. The brakes continued to work the same way, with the pedal going all the way to the floor before engaging. I checked the brake fluid level and it was okay. No brake fluid leaking under the car.

    I'd appreciate any advice anyone might provide to help me diagnose the problem. Thank you.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,637
    I would guess that you've had a failure in one of the circuit of the dual-circuit brake master cylinder; also you could have a small brake fluid leak---just enough to admit air to the system but not enough to show a conspicuous drop in fluid level.

    By all means, don't drive this car anymore, and have the system checked.
  • At a stoplight the brake pedal sinks slowly to the bottom travel limit in about 10 seconds. The Toyota dealer (which is rated D - for customer service) said that was normal. I complained to Toyota corporate in Torrence, and they referred me back to the dealer. Toyota can not, or will not tell me what is the allowable 'fade' but I believe this exceeds any acceptable amount. The car has 19,000 miles, one owner, garaged in a desert climate. Sounds like an internal leak in the master cylinder to me, maybe I'll put a kit in it...since the dealer won't. It's under extended warranty by the way.
  • popsavalonpopsavalon Posts: 231
    This is the sort of dealer incompetence that drives vehicle owners crazy. With only 19000 miles and extended warranty, you should not be guessing and throwing money at the problem (similar problem on my low mileage vehicle required complete master cylinder replacement, under warranty). There must be another reputable dealer within a reasonable driving distance, I would make phone calls until I found one.

    Somebody out there must still want to have satisfied customers for future business.
  • what kind of brake pad should i use ceramic or metallic? best reasonable all season tire
  • helanacchelanacc Posts: 1
    edited March 2011
    I have a 2006 Toyota Avalon Touring model. Both my gas and brake pedal have an annoying squeak to them when you are driving. It is coming from inside. Is there a spot to lubricate or W-D 40 to stop the squeak? Is anyone else having this problem?

  • robsisrobsis Posts: 160
    To prevent noise, I've always used the OE pads from Toyota.

    Tires are a personal thing...I've seen people say a set is noisy when others say they aren' could be related to hearing. I love my Michelins; however, some think they are too pricy. A good place to start for tires is Consumer Reports, then ask at a reputable tire shop. Careful just to ask for a recommendation, as I used to work at a tire shop and they always recommended what was on spiff that month...
  • im having the same problem were you able to figure anything out?
  • BRAKE QUESTION: My husband just put on brake shoes and can't seem to get the brakes bled. Can someone help.
  • Why would he need to bleed the brakes? Did he also do wheel cylinders on the rear brakes?

    In any event, if he opened up the hydraulic system, he'll probably have to start by bleeding the master cylinder, if indeed he can't get a firm pedal by using conventional means.

    Although this car has ABS, no special procedure for bleeding the ABS system is necessary on this vehicle.
  • cpkdrcpkdr Posts: 1
    I'm looking at a 95 Avalon with 266K miles. Needs brakes (shimmy when stopping) and a windshield wiper motor. Also, I can smell what seems like coolant with the heat on. The guy wants $1200 for the car, but mileage and other potential problems scare me a bit... Seems to drive smoothly and I like the FWD for winter... any thoughts??
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