Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevrolet Cobalt Electrical Problems

13468912

Comments

  • Thanks sharkman. GM has contacted me and we are trying a different dealer. Maybe that will help. Taking it in Friday wish me luck!
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    Because of cost to pursue other avenues, I would first do this:

    - confirm you haven't bought contaminated gas (water, seaweed etc - this has happened to me when I bought diesel in Sarasota FL once many years ago)
    - then have the fuel filter replaced. _ hopefully it is a stand alone object in the fuel line, but there is a possibility it is part of the fuel pump assembly IN the tank, so in that case would not be cheap.

    But I would have the tank checked for contamination and that should not cost too much unless it was found to BE contaminated. To check, go to local corner gas stn and ask them for a dab of litmus test paste. It is a light green. They put it on dip sticks when they guage the inground tanks when ordering gas. They wipe it on and draw it up the bottom 18" or so of the stick. At the point it turns to red from green, is the water level in the tank.

    But...some stns have gone very hi tech and possibly that whole operation is automated now, so check around.
    You might have to Google where u can buy the litmus paste and then have your mechanic dip your fuel tank.

    While the Cobalts seem to have this throttle body issue, what you described happened to simulate fuel starvation also (by a clogged filter) especially how quickly the problem returned. Good luck.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,896
    Very good suggestions. We were just discussing a similar issue in a Toyota Corolla discussion here.

    wrichards, if you live in a cold climate, and if the car spends long periods outdoors, you might try putting a bottle of Heet in the gas tank. It's about $3 and available at auto parts or discount stores like Wal-Mart. Sometimes moisture gets in there, whether already in the gas station's tanks, or in yours. If that's the case, Heet will work wonders. (if it works, I'd also consider going to a different gas station in the future.)

    If it doesn't work, at least you'll have ruled that out as a cause for almost no money.

    MODERATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    Good point also, Kirstie. I had forgot about the moisture in gas due to condensation in cold winter climates (try to keep tank full to reduce that, wrichards) and the potential freezing of moisture in the filters.

    I suspect that the Heet you mentioned is just a methyl hydrate of some sort. Hopefully/probably rubber seal friendly, which can't be assumed with hardware store bought MH. I suppose that is ONE good thing about ethanol use in gas in recent years. It has a natural type of moisture evaporation quality in gas.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,303
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,303
    >It's about $3 and available at auto parts or discount stores like Wal-Mart.

    The methanol (wood alcohol, methyl hydrate) that's in Heet or any other brand of product that "removes water" from gasoline is a good check. But I don't personally recommend its frequent use because of seals in the system.

    If the poster uses gasoline that contains ethanol, it probably keeps any condensate picked up from their tank bottom and burned. The ethanol gasolines have additives that help the gasoline and ethanol stay mixed and suspend the water present.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,896
    Gotcha. We don't have ethanol-blended gas in this part of the state, which may contribute to our issues. We've had to use Heet twice in the past 1.5 years, which isn't bad. If the seals go... well, it is a 13-yr-old truck that was cheap. You can only expect so much.

    MODERATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,303
    That ability to carry away condensed moisture is the only advantage of ethanol, in my opinion. I believe it's mandated at a certain level of total usage in Ohio, so most stations have ethanol blended.

    I didn't know there were areas that were alcohol free!
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,113
    wrichards79,
    Can you please email me your complete contact info including a good number to reach you, VIN, current mileage, involved dealer, and your Edmunds username (or a link to this page). I look forward to your response.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • Christina, my email address is wrichards79@yahoo.com, you can email me your email address so I can give you all my information. Thank you
  • I have a 2010 LT with 11,000 miles on it. Sometimes the driver's side windows do not go down. Also, occassionally my sensors (i.e. low tire pressure) and remote start (factory installed) do not work. Recently, my abs ansd service traction lights came on. Chevy and my good for nothing dealer keep telling me there is nothing wrong woth this car. However, my car has been taken in 3 x's for these issues. The 2nd time my dealership saw the windows not going down, but instead of hooking the car up to the computer, they turned it off and reset the issues. In my last vehicle report, it showed an error message for the abs and traction lights. Yet chevy and the dealer both say there is nothing wrong with the vehicle and they will not fix it. How do you get an error code and then not fix the error? Is anyone else having any trouble. I heard from a mechanic it could be the body control module or something called a seranae (spelling?).
  • I bought my Cobalt brand new in 2005 and it now has 107K miles. I have had similar problems with the key sticking and the steering wheel locking up, not to mention constant problems with the radio/CD player. I wasn't too worried about these issues, just dealt with it. I also had to take it in to the dealership to have the leak from the AC into the passenger floorboard fixed. I took my car to get the oil changed on Wednesday. When I left the shop and put my car in drive it shifted so hard my whole car jerked. Then I took off onto the road and when it shifted to first it was very loud and jerked. Every time the car shifts now it jerks, and when it is put into drive/reverse. The owners manual says that you do not need to add or check the transmission fluid or filter and from what I have found out it is basically impossible to do it yourself. Has anyone else had this issue? I was just about to get rid of it and now I am stressing that I will have to replace the transmission and it will be close to what my car is worth!
  • david244david244 Posts: 4
    edited February 2011
    Help! My 2006 Cobalt that now has 31,000 miles was bought new. The first problem was the control arm bushes needed replacement one month after the warranty expired at $400.00 I got the power steering replaced with the recall. I had to replace the shifter assembly in April which cost me $600.00 I called GM and they said they can't help because it's out of warranty. Now I read that these are on-going problems with this car, and GM does nothing to help. GM says "Too bad" & "Sorry"! THIS IS WHY THEY QUIT MAKING THESE LEMONS.

    The latest problem is the power steering goes out, the low fuel light comes on and the car jumps when accelerating. I took it to the dealer today & they worked for four hours and even though it happened when they drove the car they cannot find the cause of the problem. They had me leave the car so they can continue to diagnose the system. Any ideas??

    (THIS IS MY LAST GM.)
  • Transmission control module. Hard to detect unless you're looking for it. So tell'em to look at it. Can't hurt. Good luck.
  • '05 Cobalt, 90k miles. Almost flunked state inspection because the brake lights didn't work. I had just checked them so did not believe the tester. We found that the brake lights work....but only if the ignition is in the "run" position. if it's off (key in or out) the brake lights don't work.

    Is this normal? I don't recall having this issue before. Body Control Module was replaced about 2-years ago.

    He said there were some "strange computer issues" as well but he ran a manual test and passed the car.
  • Forgot to mention that the center brake light works with the ignition on or off. It's just the "regular" brake that don't work with the ignition off.
  • Dumped the cripy cobalt got a 2010 Huyndai Elantra Gm CAN KISS MY AS....
  • gdawg415gdawg415 Posts: 3
    I have a 2006 Cobalt and it keeps blowing 2 separate fuses. First fuse to blow was the Climate Control System, Cluster Fuse #16 in the passenger side kick panel. Second fuse to blow was the Park Neutral fuse in the fuse box under the hood. I had been driving the car around and the # 16 fuse kept blowing out then one day I got into the car and the car would not start not even with a jump. I had it towed to my house and a friend found that the park/Neutral fuse blew but the car still would not start. I had it towed to the Chevy Dealership. $236.00 late they say it was the park/neutral switch was blown and that a relay was not in correctly. I pick it up and drive it around for about a week and the same thing happens both fuses blow. The #16 fuse blows more frequently than the park/Neutral fuse. I take it back to Chevy and they tell me they really can't isolate the issue but most likely the Underhood fusebox needs to be replaced which is going to cost about $600.00. Has anyone had a similar issue? It obviously has to be some electrical issue but kinda baffled why the dealership can't give me a exact reason as to why the car keeps blowing those two fuses. It also seems to happen most when it's raining. Any help would be appreciated.
  • I bought a 2005 Cobalt LT in 09 used at 44,000 miles. from the start, there was a serious issue with the locks. they would continuously lock and unlock no matter if the alarm was set, if i was driving, while parked, or w.e. and my sunroof would stick. I got that fixed. Then a few months later, my power steering went out multiple times. Took it to the dealership 5 times and promised them that the next time they take it and i get it back with the same results, i was going to sue them under the lemon law. upon telling them that, they replaced my steering column and the problem went away....UNTIL recently. At 96,000 miles, my car starting going haywire. The back driver window wont roll down, the Traction control light comes on, it jerks in acceleration, shakes whenever i hit the breaks; it'll cut off on me randomly (like in the fast lane on the freeway); the brake light comes on; the power steering light comes on; my radio volume fluctuates; my speedometer, fuel and RPM sensors all go nuts. this car is a piece of crap!! i have began to log my experiences on youtube. i live in the suburbs of Detroit and i have already started a case # with GM, if i dont get the results, they WILL be seeing me at their corporate office until something gets done about this!!! this is ridiculous. when you buy a car, you buy it for quality and safety, and this car lacks both!
    Here's the link of one of the vids of the car going haywire if you want to check it out. We should start some kind of petition or something because this is unacceptable. >:-(

    link title
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,113
    gdawg415,
    Have you involved Customer Assistance? Has your dealer spoke with Technical Assistance?
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • kf101981kf101981 Posts: 4
    I have spoken with customer assistance when no where in my manual said that I had a cabin air filter....for the $800 plus dollars in repairs it had cost me because I didn't know it was there and my dealership didn't check it at routine maintainence times, I was given 1 year---so about 4 oil changes---and tire rotation for free. What would they have done to help now...nothing. This car is a POS.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,113
    Are you still experiencing issues with your vehicle? Please keep me posted.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,113
    mizzpoetic08,

    You stated you had a case set up with GM Customer Assistance. Could you please email me the case number? I would like to look further into the situation.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • david244david244 Posts: 4
    My 06 did the same thing only had 31,000 miles on it, after the dealer had it for 2 weeks and could not find the problem. I picked it up and went strate to the Hyundai dealer and trated it in for a 2010 Elantra. GM was no help at all all I can say is dump the POC.
  • kf101981kf101981 Posts: 4
    Yes...the heating/cooling system has failed again. This is the second time on that.

    I want to trade it for a different car, but the financing people (GMAC/now Ally) will only consider taking less than I owe if I get another Chevy...why would I do that?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,113
    kf101981,

    You stated you spoke with customer assistance, could you send me the case number? I would like to look further into the case. What dealership are you currently working with?

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • jonsic3jonsic3 Posts: 1
    I bought a cobalt brand new in 2005. Had nothing but trouble from the start. The tc light and power steering light would come on and the car jerk around. Took it to the dealer when it was under warranty. Every time told it was something different. Now just took it back sunk 450 and still same trouble. Not sure what i should do from here
  • kf101981kf101981 Posts: 4
    Get rid of it ASAP...it is a piece of crap.
  • I replaced a battery in an '06 SS. When the clock and radio failed to operate, I noticed that the fuse for the Audio / OnStar (including radio), both inside console and underhood were blown. New fuses blow immediately in both locations. Also, the door locks do't work properly. While I can manually activate them from inside the car and the door switches work to UNLOCK the vehicle, the door switches do NOT work to LOCK the car. Any ideas?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,113
    jonsic3,
    Can you please email me your VIN, complete contact information including a good number to reach you, current mileage, and involved dealer? I look forward to your response.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
13468912
Sign In or Register to comment.