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Toyota Camry TSBs and Trouble Codes

2

Comments

  • scoti1scoti1 Posts: 676
    mert2, Sorry to hear that the TSB fix did not last for you. I have forgotten the details of your problem -- can you describe your hesitation again? How long/how many miles did the TSB "correct" the problem? Was it a gradual return of the hesitation symptoms or did it happend suddenly?

    Thanks for the update.
  • mert2mert2 Posts: 74
    wwest -- I'm highly suspicious that the service dept. will have any idea what you're talking about.

    these are the same guys that didn't know there was a tsb out, and when I got them to look it up they tried to charge me for it because they thought it was an enhancement, not a fix.

    the other shop in town has played parts roulette with me (replace this part, see if that gets the light to go off).

    do you have something from toyota that I can take to them?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    There is a very well defined diagnostic procedure for in car reading/checking the accelerator pedal VPA sensor output voltage at WOT and at rest, fully released positions in the factory repair/shop manuals.

    The manual indicates that the acceptable VPA output voltage range at rest must be between 0.5 volts and 1.1 volts. IMMHO the problem is that if it happens to be above the 0.8 volt level the engine/transaxle ECU will not be able to easily discern the difference between fully released and partial but just slight application.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Can you do me a favor..??

    I have little doubt that Toyota gets it right.

    By that I mean if you disconnect the battery and then reconnect it after being certain the accelerator pedal is FULLY released the engine/transaxle ECU will at that time RECORD the VPA (accelerator position sensor) voltage that indicates a fully released accelerator pedal.

    That stored voltage parameter should not change over time and multiple drive cycles unless the ECU has "reason" to suspect the sensor voltages have drifted from the original ones recorded.

    That might happen, for instance, if you often brake with your left foot, even ever so slightly, while also have a very light touch on the accelerator pedal. That might result in the ECU "thinking" that the accelerator pedal sensor outout voltages have drifted over time and the initially recorded IDLE voltage needs to be adjusted to fit the new accelerator "idle" position.

    Or suppose you often get into the car and unconsciously apply a light pressure to the gas pedal just as you switch on the ignition?

    So, here is my suggestion.

    Disconnect and reconnect the battery being sure the accelerator pedal is fully released.

    Now, each and every time you get into the driver's seat be sure the very first thing you do, consistently, is put your right foot flat onto the carpet. Now put the key in the ignition and start the car with your foot still flat on the carpet.

    Before shifting into any gear use your right foot to apply the brake. Do not move your foot to the accelerator pedal until the transaxle is "settled" into the selected gear.

    Try that procedure, consistently, for a week or more of drive cycles and see if the hesitations returns.
  • mert2mert2 Posts: 74
    Already do that.

    Years of driving a standard has me in the habit of stepping on the brake (right foot) when I start the car. No foot on the gas.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    OK. I've driven mostly manuals since getting my license decades ago. Now I drive automatics (i cry). Anyway, aren't you supposed to put your left foot on the rest pad (if you have one) and never use it? I certainly don't.

    Unless I'm in a panic stop. There have been a few times where I've gone for the phantom clutch and brake at the same time. ;)

    But seriously, does anyone use their brake and gas in their automatics at the same time? If so, they must have idling issues right? And, are many applying gas when starting? You're not supposed to...;)
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    I have always, religiously ( or so I thought) used my right foot for both braking and gas.

    Then last week I realized that the one time the firmware designers could likely rely on the gas pedal being at idle, and thereby reliably "learn" the gas pedal idle position, was during the sequence of firmly applying the brake in order to have the electric solenoid release the shifter so it can be moved out of park.

    So the issue is NOT what foot you use for braking otherwise, but specific to the exact time you are shifting out of park.

    After realizing the above I started paying more attention to my own driving methods. Low and behold it turned out that I had a habit of using my left foot on the brake each time I shifted out of park. For some reason I had developed the habit of applying the brake with my left foot in this instance circumstance.

    What was I doing with my right foot...?

    In the case of preparing to back out of my garage, and as it turns out any time I am backing up, my right foot is always on the accelerator pedal with my left foot applying or poised over the brake.

    Probably lucky that I don't have DBW.
  • flakkasflakkas Posts: 5
    Im just wondering if anyone went to fix their hesitation problem on their camry. and did the TSB do anything to make the vehicle more smoother on the shifting and did it solve your lurching and hesitation problem? Also did it make the problem worse or did it start other problems?
  • crapppcrappp Posts: 1
    I get a code 12 from 91 camry. Will not run. It just dropped dead. Fuel pump works. No spark. Looked up code 12
    "open or short in ne,g circuit.
    distributor,open or short in sta"
    What in the hell does that mean?
    Thanks
  • typesixtypesix Posts: 314
    There's a problem in the distributor system. Could be the coil(common problem), the sensor, or rotor, or something else.
  • paulcudlippaulcudlip Posts: 33
    I have tried to search for this TSB to no avail. I remember reading that Toyota had a supplier problem with this item.
    Can anyone provide me with the TSB?
  • penizzlepenizzle Posts: 104
    http://arrc.epnet.com/autoasp/listvec.asp?sid=18167179&uid=s9072919.main.autoref- ctr&mk=TOYOTA&yr=1999&md=CAMRY
    is a site with that info. CLick on your engine type, then on the next screen click on Service Bul. and recalls, on the next screen click on Elect. devices and computers, proms and sensors link. On the next page, there are a few TSB's regarding the o2 sensors(also known as air?fuel sensors). All info is there.
  • eddiecruzeddiecruz Posts: 18
    I recently bought a 2007 Camry SE V6 and have been having the same problem. I feel as through I’m constantly fighting to keep the car straight at speeds of 50+. This is very disappointing to me after all the good reviews on the vehicle that I have been reading. I asked the dealer about it and they said that they need to recreate the problem (some mechanic racing on the freeways with my new car, remember Faris Bulers Day Off?). I’m betting that they will say that this is normal.

    Anybody else have this issue?
    :mad:
  • penizzlepenizzle Posts: 104
    It could be something as simple as tire alignment. Or maybe its the tires that you have. Maybe eventually YOTA will put out a TSB with this problem.
  • njeraldnjerald Posts: 688
    There is a TSB!

    Mine drives fine but there is a TSB ST005-01, dated 11/16/01, which covers all 2002-2007 models.

    It covers the diagnosis of whether it is tires or alignment and procedures to fix. Seems pretty straight forward analysis.
  • paulcudlippaulcudlip Posts: 33
    The link does not work. You have to be a member.
  • penizzlepenizzle Posts: 104
    actually, i'm not a member. Do this. Go to dogpile.com and type in "AARC auto repair" and click search. There will be a link that says Bedford Public Library in Blue letters. Click on that. Then click the arrc link that is on the next page. This will take you to a screen will model year numbers. Select 1999 and the select toyota then click camry then click the model you have. On the next screen click on "Service Bullitins and REcalls" scrool down to the electronis, PROMS, and Sensors link and you will see a couple of TSB's regarding the O2 or air/fuel sensors.
  • Thank you very much for your help. That is exactly what I needed.
  • m27m27 Posts: 1
    1998 Camry 4 cyl auto failed mass inspection today due to trouble codes: po125
    p1135
    engine rpm= 665
  • penizzlepenizzle Posts: 104
    P0125 means there is insuficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control(bank 1 sensor 1). The fix to this can be the following: heated oxygen sensor malfunction. Just replace the heated the number 1 oxygen sensor on bank 1 and clear the codes and you are good to go.

    P1135 isn't a code. You probably meant P0135, which is also related to the heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 1.
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