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Toyota Avalon Engine Questions

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  • ghickghick Posts: 1
    After 3 trips to Dealer, now they mysterious found "another" engine code. The first code was P0446. To fix they replaced the vsv switch for $130), the 2nd trip (light still on) they said it was NOW the charcoal cannister,,,another $440. The tech told me to drive it a while as the gasoline "might" evaporate,,,,it didn't so I took it back, so now the 3rd trip. This time they discovered a faulty gas cap, inner part was busted. This was the problem all along (I think) as this code (P0446) no longer appears, but low and behold up pops another code during the 3rd trip: P1135, Fuel air Metering. Manufacture Control: Pedal position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent. Can anyone tell me about this code. My thinking is that the tech is covering for the previous two goofs, and may have even done "something" to set this code, or loosened something. Yes, I'm getting a phobia now! Is the P1135 code something I can buy from the dealer and install myself? The car appears to drive fine. Note, I do not have an extended warrantee, and I do like the car and plan on keeping it. Any words of advice would be appreciated!!!
  • I had the oil changed in my 2005 Toyota Avalon and the dealer did not properly reinstall the oil plug. Because of their mistake the car stopped running and left me in the middle of a major intersection. I then had it towed back to the dealership where they put a new plug in it filled the oil up and told me to go on my way. The dealer says that there is no damage to my car because it is specially equipped with a safety feature that stops the engine when it senses there is no oil. I am worried that there will be damage/problems that could come up in the future.

    My questions are:
    1) Is there really a safety feature like that in the car? 2) Can there be damage to my car that could go undetected now but surface later?
    3) If it was your car what would you do?

    Ellen
  • jdre86jdre86 Posts: 30
    1. Sorry I have no clue (you never know...its 2006)

    2. I don't think so. Did the engine just turn off like you had switched the ignition off or did it lose power, sputter, etc. and eventually die? When an engine runs dry of oil, you just don't put oil in it and go on your merry way. So maybe there is some device that prevents such a thing from happening. And you still have a while before your warranty runs out, so don't lose any sleep over it. Also, do you notice anything different about the way it drives?
    3. Make sure the "important" people like the owner of the dealership and Toyota know of the incident in case of future repercussions.
  • coop3coop3 Posts: 3
    We are having continuing problems...we had computer problems, took to an independent mechanic...they found a dime in the cigarette lighter! We have never used our cigarette lighter, no smokers in this family! Have NO IDEA how this dime got there! When mechanic took out, all the lights went out on dash (VSC, VSC OFF, ABS), said problem was fixed! (Don't believe it!) Now, there is a ticking in engine...after engine turned off! If I put my key into ignition, the clicking stops. Maybe in 3 or 3 hours, the clicking starts again. We put the key in, it stops. Anyone experience these problems???????
  • I have a 2005 Avalon LTD and at 5,000 miles the check engine light came on. The computer scan came up with the code P0138 indicating a fault in the "O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)". After four trips to the local Toyota delearship and three different changes of these sensors the solution finally came with changing the "Air Fuel Ratio Sensor Banks one and two". The delearship in the end apologized stating that Toyota just released a bulletin indicating this was the solution to this new problem with 05 Avalons. Indeed when my vehicle was making a home at the delearship another 05 Avalon LTD was in for the same reason. In the end it took 5 weeks to fix the problem. I post this note to advise other Avalon owners of this problem and I am also curious if other owners are having the same problem. I am still suspicious the delearship made up the story and the "new bulletin". I did buy my own scanner to check the faulty code and it did indicate P0138. The check engine light has remained off for one week now and the P0138 code no longer appears on my scanner. However my Innova 3030 scanner continues to warn there may be a possible problem of a "pending" DTC or the vehicle's "Evaporative System Monitor" has not run a complete diagnostic test. This warning persists despite driving the car daily for over a week now. I would appreciate any comments and I thank all in advance of your replies.

    DNC
  • captain2captain2 Posts: 3,971
    just had the occasion to take my early '05 to the dealer for a relatively minor (but bothersome) oil leak. Must be happening often enough that the Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) #EG065-05 was issued 12-23-05 - it reads as follows:
    Some 2005 model year Avalon vehicles may experience a small/slow oil drip from the bank 1 VVTi oil supply line on the front of the engine. The oil pipe has been improved to prevent this condition.
    Bank 1 is the firewall side of the engine, and the tubes they are talking about move oil from the cylinder heads.The fix involves a timing gear cover, some gaskets, and the oil pipe subassembly.
    The TSB also notes this problem is covered by the 60k mile powertrain warranty.
    If you have an early Av you might want to check with Calif. and find out if your will need the repair
  • I have 146,000 miles on my Avalon and the ECU is bad. I've replaced the knock sensors and testing indicates it's the ECU. I am not sure I want to spend the $1,200 plus to replace with a new ECU. I would like to keep the car as long as it will run.

    I spoke with Toyota tech depart. and they indicated I could save a lot of money by using a salvaged ECU. (last resort)

    Can anyone tell me what would be involved in replacing the bad ECU with a used ECU?

    Do I have to stick with the same model year or can a newer/older ECU be used. (searched the net found a ECU from a 2001 XLS)

    Any info would be a great help and thanks in advance.

    Alex1015
  • I JUST BOUGHT A 95 TOYOTA AVALON TODAY FOR MY DAUGHTER. IT HAS 112,00 MILES ON IT. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON. I DIDN'T NOTICE IT DURING THE TEST DRIVE. MY HUSBAND NOTICED IT WHEN WE GOT HOME (23 MILES) LATER. DOES THE LIGHT AUTOMATICALLY COME ON AFTER SO MANY MILES? I DIDN'T GET THE MANUAL WITH THE CAR SO I CAN'T LOOK IT UP. THIS CAR DRIVES GREAT. PLEASE HELP!
  • finfin atlantaPosts: 589
    You will get several answers but the light indicates that the onboard sensors think there is some problem, most likely with the emissions controls. It does not come on due to mileage and should be off under normal conditions. Others will have more ideas and suggestions...
  • master1master1 Posts: 340
    That is self-explanatory. It means you need to have the engine checked.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Or, in the alternative, it might simply mean that you need to tighten the gas cap and then wait for a few drive cycles for the diagnostic indication to go out.
  • hylynerhylyner Posts: 216
    If both check engine light and VSC warnings are lit, it is very likely the gas cap not tight enough. Check engine light alone is something else. Emission control component problems are by far the most common. Autozone will provide you with a free diagnostic, or you can take it to your dealer and they'll do one for you. It takes about 15 minutes.
  • deepandeepan Posts: 342
    AFAIK there is no VSC on the 95 avalon. the chk engine light could very well be the gas cap not being tight. dont know how many start/stop it will take to rectify it. if your radio doesnt have any anti theft codes you can either disconnect the battery or maybe pull the relevant fuse. make sure the cap is tight. if the light should come back on then you have a emission issue. (maybe an o2 sensor
  • txjtxj Posts: 1
    This Toyota Avalon Limited has exhibited sudden engine acceleration from idle or low rpm to 6500-7000 rpm instantaneously a number of times. It has happened normally when either lightly applying the brake or just releasing the brake with foot off the accelerator pedal. Last time happened 6 times with transmission in park after an occurance with the brake on. It also seems that it occurs when the steering wheel is slightly turned for a left turn. Has anyone heard of this problem or better yet heard of a solution for it? Toyota says they have never heard of it even though the NHTSA site has a bunch of complaints on the issue for Avalons and Camrys.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    that's going to a pretty high rev. if it were me, i'd ask the service people to check the connections between the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and the ECU (Engine Control Unit). i might even go so far as to ask them to replace the throttle body.

    There is also an Idle Speed Control Valve (ISCV) that comes into play when the vehicle is cold, allowing more air to get by an essentially closed throttle, and I think the ECU may also schedule more fuel through the injectors at that time as well.

    You can learn more about this stuff on www.auto101.com, choose Technical articles and look for #24-26.

    looks like when the engine is cold, the ISC bumps up the amount of air entering the engine to have it rev higher. a 100 rpm higer maybe based on engine coolant temp, but not 1000s higher than normal...

    but it sounds like your vehicle is asking for way more air and fuel, almost as if your throttle position sensor is reading the wrong opening, or the throttle body is sticking, -or- something is causing your accelerator pedal to hang up (a floor mat?).

    check the floor mat, then go for the Throttle Body and TPS. that's what I'd do.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Make sure your floor mats are "hooked" into the restraint and have not creeped forward with forward corner over the accelerator pedal but still behind the brake pedal.

    Happened to me several times over the years, application of the brake pedal forces the mat down against the accelerator.
  • deepandeepan Posts: 342
    Need some help. Chk engine light came on last night.
    The gas cap is tight but i want to eliminate it.

    How do i reset the light. I can pull the battery but
    is there a Fuse that i can pull so as to reset it. If
    it comes back then i go to plan B.

    Its still a bit cold out there so instead of opening
    the hood could someone tell me whether this model is
    equipped with a OBD 2 device. a buddy has one but i
    need to find out if it fits the car. dont want to drag
    himall the way or me all the way to find out. There is
    no autozone or anything like that closeby!
  • wnavalonwnavalon Posts: 4
    I have a 2005 Avalon and the engine is noisy when cold. It sounds like a valve train noise but quits when the engine is warm. Has anyone found a solution for this ? ( P.S. the engine runs great )
  • lidolido Posts: 7
    I've had trouble starting my 2000 Avalon intermittantly since about a year and a half after buying it new in late 99. I brought it to the dealer twice during the warranty period and they claimed that they couldn't get the problem to recurr. I believe that, but I don't believe that they didn't know what the problem was. It still only happens about once a month or so, but is a pain the in neck when it does happen. Why isn't there a class action against Toyota for this problem or at least a recall? My repair guy says that this is a major problem for a lot of different models. I don't feel like taking the part off and cleaning it and I don't want to pay for a new one. This is a faulty device that fails on cars even in the warranty period so I think there should be a recall on it. Has anyone had any luck spraying cleaner into the iac without taking it apart? That's the only thing I'd really be up for taking the time to do. Other than that I'll just keep restarting it and using the gas pedal to idle until it's time for me to get my next car (which probably won't be a Toyota).
  • Anyone have this problem..
    Picked up my Limited yesterday and on the way home it stalled twice! Plus a little gas leak I noticed as it was sitting for 2 minutes in my driveway, before I took the car back. Gee 16 miles on the car and 2 stalls.
    Too bad I can't just return the car. I truly don't trust the car or want it. I just can understand how a new new new car off the lot has stalling problems. (with a full tank of gas).

    First time toyota person and probably last time too !
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    it's possible the vehicle wasn't prepped for delivery properly, i.e. idle learn procedure (i presume it stalled when idling), or the battery was bad. BTW - you should not charge a deeply discharged battery with the alternator. one thing i would do is demand very detailed information w.r.t. what was serviced on the vehicle. i'd look on the doorjam and examine the date of manufacture. maybe the vehicle sat on the dealer's lot for an extended period.

    the gas tank leak is another matter - again, if they don't replace something - i'd be curious.

    if they won't give you a new vehicle, then perhaps you should tell them you want them to provide you with an extended warranty on their dime. you may have paid for a toyoguard and prep package.

    if it were me - i wouldn't be leaving until (a) i felt safe in the vehicle and (b) i was satisfied.
  • lavalolavalo Posts: 6
    Being towed to Toyota dealer this morning. Almost did not start, runs real rough, "check engine light is on" "VSC light is on. Car skidding icon light is on. I figure it's computer brains are scrambled. We will see and let everyone know the results. :sick:

    cpo8usnret
  • lavalolavalo Posts: 6
    Just got a call from Toyota dealer. He says I picked up bad gas. He says the tank has to be drained, injectors cleaned and at my cost. I asked if he had any sort of kit to tell if it was bad gas. He had no kit, but he could smell and see that it was bad gas and assured me that he's been in service long enough to know bad gas when he smells it. Maybe so! However the gas in the tank is no more than two weeks old and put several miles on the car since the last fill up. I told service not to drain the tank until I could personally witness them taking a gallon out which was going to be provided to my local gas supplier who does have a crew and method to check for bad gas. This sample will be the back bone of my case to cover the repair cost. More to come. BTW if your going to take a sampling of gas for analysis, buy a new 1 or 2 gallon container. This is the size of the sample the gas supplier wants.

    cpo8usnret.
    :mad:
  • jdirtjdirt Posts: 2
    Debbie,
    This is not a big surprise that you are having problems. I don't think it's reflective of the Toyota brand, but rather the dealer where you purchased it from.

    I myself buy American cars, and have had my share of troubles with them but can honestly say the quality has greatly improved over the years.
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591
    Disagree. Had discommunication with both the dealership and the corporation. And they both are in cohoots around playing ring around the possie. At all levels I got the circle jerk, local, regional manager(I joke who know nothing about his product) and corporate. I could NOT agree with your statement from my lengthy 2 year experience.

    abfisch
  • bobwileybobwiley Posts: 241
    jdirt: When I spend near $40K for a vehicle, I want it to have a very "substrantial" residual value after 3-4years. Find a US "family car"--that has the same residual value as an Avalon, Camry or almost any other Toyota product---they're just like the dinosaurs--extinct. I'll buy US wheb the US builds'em better! I will admit, I was impressed with the Buick Lucerne--biggest concern--1st year reliability. Good motoring!
    Bob
  • mem4mem4 Posts: 52
    Then why are you posting on an Avalon forum? How can you discuss problems and solutions for the Avalon if you have never owned a Toyota? Trolls are a waste of everyones time.
  • 99avalon99avalon Posts: 4
    My wife and I just bought a '99 Toyota Avalon in excellent condition, with 70,000 miles on it from a Toyota Dealer here last week. The other day I start up in the afternoon and notice a small puff of smoke. My heart sank! We're college students and I bought this car banking on all the Toyota quality assurances by everyone out there. I bought it hoping for reliability and quality. So far, I am VERY impressed with the quality. I have 0 complaints, except for the occasional puff of bluish smoke (oil of course) when we start up. I am very mechanically minded, so please feel free to be technical with me. Is this valve guides? Is it rings not completely sealing up? Is it something else I don't know about? It runs beautifully, but I don't know how the old man maintained it for it's first 70,000. What should I do? Engine flush? Engine treatment? Any quick fixes I should try before I just let it continue smoking until I HAVE to fix it (which may never really happen). I love this car, I'm just so dissappointed that it didn't smoke when I test drove it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,715
    Sounds like worn valve stem seals. This is not a big deal to correct...not a small deal exactly, but you don't have to do internal engine work. What might be happening is that overnight, a small amount of oil that is lying on top of the engine in the camshaft area, leaks past the rubber seals surrounding the valve stems. This is then burned off when you start up and you probably won't see any more oil burning unless perhaps you are coasting downhill in gear and create a high vacuum condition where the engine's pistons try to suck more oil from the camshaft area through the hard, old valve stem seals.

    Unless the smoke becomes obnoxious, your car could run for years with this condition. Perhaps more frequent oil changes might even help to correct it somewhat.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • finfin atlantaPosts: 589
    The enemy of your car is age, not mileage. As pointed out, things like valve seal hardening allow oil to bypass into the cylinder during long off periods. This is much more likely than valve guide wear at 70k miles.

    My '99XL was flawless at 92k when traded. Do not "treat" an Avalon engine. Change oil at 5k miles or 4 months whichever comes first. Follow the manual for all other fluids and the timing belt.

    These cars easily go 200k when maintained properly. Front struts will be a likely problem at some point and check the battery cables for corrosion at the terminal on the battery. Common problems, as are front brakes.

    Beyond that, enjoy.... :)
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