Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Toyota Avalon Suspension Questions



  • Well my impression is that the Monroes would be softer and the KYB firmer. As for the control arms I'd ask them to show you what they are talking about. You'd be looking for badly deteriorated rubber bushings in the control arms. If they are just a little squishy or have very light cracking, that might not require replacement. They could be over-selling you a bit here, I don't know. I'm always a bit leery of chain store operations.
  • Also which control arms should I get? Would have a part #? Pepboys didnt provide this info (they did for the rest of the parts...).
  • yeah, I'm not convinced the control arm needs to be changed - will get a second opinion but he basically showed me that the control arm moves but did not show any deteriorated rubber bushings in the control arms.
  • Do you have any noise over bumps or unusual tire wear, or shimmy at speeds, etc. ?
  • njavalonguynjavalonguy Posts: 35
    edited April 2011
    hello folks,

    My ride ( 2000 Avalon XLS ) recently caused 124K miles and I am getting signs that time has come for a suspension job. I used to hear a funny sound ( similar to an empty plastic can bouncing around in the trunk) from the driver side rear area while going over a bad patch on the road since almost 20K miles now and I got used to it and decided to live with it till the time I noticed uneven wear for the driver side rear tire last week ( the outside edge shows more wear than the inside one only for this tire). I have occassionaly also noticed the vehicle pulling to the left at times despite of a wheel alignment job last year.

    I read some of the posts on this forum and am confused on what parts ( struts / strut mounts / bushings / sway bars, etc) need to be replaced.

    Would like to know what my options are - whether to go for aftermarket parts ? whether only the driver side can be replaced or do I need to replace both the rear struts ? How much it approximately cost me ?

    Any inputs would be appreciated.

  • 5539655396 Posts: 530
    Look in 'Toyota Avalon 2004 and earlier' also. Search 55396 or ABfisch.
  • I did read some of the messages posted by ABFisch and 55396 and am wondering since I am the only person reporting the uneven tire wear issue ( outter edge worn more than the inner edge) in addition to the noise while going over rough patches on road, does this necessarily mean I need to change the struts ? or could this be something minor which can be taken care by changing the sway bar bushings, etc ?

  • 5539655396 Posts: 530
    Ya, mine wear on the outside too. Comes from going around corners too damn fast now that it's fun to drive. A good alignment/suspension check should ID possible problems.
  • Thanks 55396,

    You are absolutely right...I go fast around the corners too...but the only concern is why the rear tire shows more wear on the edge than the front ?
    more troubled with the fact that I hear the noise from around the same tire while going over a bad road patch. Just completed 125K miles on the car. Could a suspension overhaul be needed in your opinion ?

  • 5539655396 Posts: 530
    I don't recall what you have done, but many have replaced struts under 50k, so if you haven't done that, it's time. But I would start out with a 4 wheel alignment. That should ID any worn parts. It seems like someone had some clunking due to sway bar bushings being worn. If there is wear and clearance, the sway bar could clunk around in there.
  • 5539655396 Posts: 530
    Those are the ones in general. Better measure your sway bars. Mine are 17mm rear and they didn't have that size so I had to order 16mm and hone them out. Better to be sure what size your bars are before ordering.
  • njavalonguynjavalonguy Posts: 35
    what year is your avy and what trim ( XL or XLS ?).

    Mine is 2000 XLS with 205 60 R16 tires.

  • 5539655396 Posts: 530
    Mine began it's life as an Enterprise rental car, an XL, but was a managers car so never in rental fleet. Pearl white. I added gold package, woodgrain interior, mud guards, color matched spoiler etc from online for about $420. Then my wife bought 16" chrome mags and tires. By then it looked so nice I upgraded the suspension with KYB/GR2 struts and energy sway bar bushings. What a difference as I have posted. Now I can't find anything I would rather drive. Handles and rides great. And, I've had Vettes, muscle cars, Audi, driven multiple BMW's, you name it so it isn't like I don't know what's out there. No dealer checks ever but nearing 100k so timing belt/water pump is due. I do most of my own stuff. I had links to pics here but host no longet there and I don't see how to upload an image to a post, if indeed possible. If anyone knows..................
    I also own a 90 Lexus LS 400 with 59k that drives as new. The Avalon is my wifes car, but we both use it as our primary driver.
  • njavalonguynjavalonguy Posts: 35
    wow nice to know...btw you didn't mention what year is the car ?

    I guess you still have some time for timing belt / water pump replacement..replaced mine at 120K and it was almost new.

    I am not so much of a DIY guy so don't know whether the rear sway bar size for my car too is 17 mm like yours.

    there is 50 % on labour on strut replacements going on currently at pepboys and also you get the 4th Monroe strut free if you buy 3 so thinking of replacing them on the weekend.

    I know given your experience with KYB you wouldn't think replacing the OEMs with Monroe would be a good idea but anyways not planning to spend much $ on a car which is 11 yrs and 126 K miles old.

  • 5539655396 Posts: 530
    Ours is a 2003. I paid $209 on ebay for my KYB's (4) and had them installed locally. I take mine to the junk yard for work I don't do. Todd builds and races stock cars and does a good job for me. Full brake job with 2 new rotors and ceramic pads (I really like) including rear hub replacement. I supplied that part - $80 online. $270. People have posted that they paid $1100 and $1300 at their friendly customer oriented dealer.
  • Update :

    After spending $700 + i got the rear struts (Monroe OEMs), strut mounts, sway bar links and bushings replaced at Pepboys.

    The clunking did disappear only to return 2500 miles later. Though it is not as bad as before however, i can hear a little rattle with a discerning ear while going over rough patches. What's worse is that this time I hear it from the front too....indicating that it is time to replace the front struts too.

    I am going to take the car back to Pepboys for the rear noise because it is still under their 90 day warranty however I am really disappointed and need some direction on what else needs to be replaced :(

  • 5539655396 Posts: 530
    So where's our next update? :-) What was the outcome, but more importantly, how did the car perform? Was your result similar to what we got for driving dynamics? Do you think the Monroes gave you a nice firm well handling driving experience? How are they holding up? Any softening as the miles accumulate? Noise gone?

  • iljaslmiljaslm Posts: 1
    edited December 2011
    My 2001 Avalon with 240K miles has been an extremely reliable vehicle. I've replaced an O2 sensor and a rear wheel bearing and that's it outside of regular maintenance. Every switch works, the AC still cools, and the ride is great.

    I have two questions. At highway speeds, when I apply the brakes there is a significant front end vibration. It's very similar to what I would expect from front end rotors that need turning. Since they had already been machined twice, I replaced the rotors and pads. It didn't correct the problem which leads me to believe it is some type of suspension issue. Any suggestions would greatly appreciated.

    Secondly, I'm not 100% confident that I have ever changed the transmission fluid but I think I did a few years ago. I've been told "if it's not broke, don't fix it" or in other words don't change the fluid now because it will cause problems. I really hate not changing it but I don't want to open pandora's box either. Any suggestions?

    Thank you for your consideration
  • finfin atlantaPosts: 586
    Here's a free opinion....
    Transmission: The fluid has a definite lifespan. After a certain point it fails to lubricate properly so change it and flush the transmission also to get it all out and refill. Yes, it is possible this will cause something negative to happen.... but it will happen anyway if you don't, so do it now and hope for the best.

    Brake vibration: Sounds like the rotors are still bad. If it does not vibrate unless you touch the brake pedal at 70 mph.... what else could it be? Inferior rotors, wrong pads or a bad mechanic most likely. Twice is enough milling on the rotors, good call there, not enough left after a third cut. Have a good front end shop check the alignment, struts and related parts... see what they say. Others may have ideas here also.... :)
Sign In or Register to comment.