97 Chevrolet Silverado Complaints

thomasc

My problem was most apparent at idle. You could really tell it was missing (noticeable vibration and shaking). It would only do it for a minute or two. I used to give it a little gas after it had run for about 30 seconds and that would sometimes make the missing stop. I tried injector cleaner to no avail. The dealership "couldn't duplicate the problem" until the Check Engine light finally came on. Then, it took several trips to the dealership to get them to replace the injector. Since it took almost two weeks for me to get a service appointment when the light came on, the light had gone out by the time I got there. Even though trouble codes were stored that identified cylinder #2, they basically wiggled the spark plug wire and told me to come back if it missed again. It did and I came back a little more unhappy with the truck. Finally, after a little chat with the manager at the end of the day (still nothing done to fix it), he figured out the injector was probably bad. One more trip and it was fixed.

By the way, OBD-II stands for On Board Diagnostics, second generation. This means the computer in your truck has extra software to diagnose the emissions system and determine what part is failing. OBD-II was phased in around 1996 and, as I recall, was required on all vehicles in 1997. Your truck will have OBD-II if it's a '99. As an example of the system's capabilities--on older computer-controlled cars, a miss in the engine would probably cause a "running too rich" code that is pretty general in nature. OBD-II, on the other hand, has misfire detection software that, for the most part, isolates the miss to the specific cylinder(s). This makes it much easier to isolate the cause. Unfortunately, you can no longer read the trouble codes by shorting two terminals with a paper clip (or at least you couldn't on my '97 truck). The OBD-II system maintains a misfire count for each cylinder. The service department (if they're willing and you pray hard enough) should be able to read the misfire count and determine if your truck is actually missing at idle. Once the misfire count reaches a certain limit, the Check Engine (MIL) light comes on. The light will go out again after (as I recall) three distinct trip cycles. All of this information is in the factory service manual, if you own it.

Good luck. Keep pressure on the dealership or find a different one. Most of all, drive your truck regularly--it's much better for it!

--TomC

powerisfun

Looks like thomasc has already answered your question and I agree with him. Take it to the dealer. Maybe try another dealer if your current dealer has proven untrustworthy. The Espanola service people seem very nice. I've never needed to bring in my truck, but I went to talk to them to ask their advice on adding headers and cat-back dual-exhaust. I talked with the service manager and he was really helpful.
By the way, my truck has a rough idle too. That appears to be a characteristic of the Vortec engines. Even the new 4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L Vortecs are having that same "problem". Mine is hardly noticeable most of the time, but occasionally I'll really feel it.
-powerisfun

stevek

My '97 K1500 with the 5.7L Vortec has a lifter tapping noise on the passenger side. The dealer said it can run forever with it. Are these hydrolic lifters? No oil additive was able to "fix" the problem.

chevyck1

I contacted my service manager, and he told me to fill it up with medium grade fuel, save the reciept, then drive it at least a hundred miles, and fill it up again and save the reciept and mark down how many miles I went, and then take it to him. I guess they don't believe me, like I'd be wasting my time even talking to him. He said it might be an injector being that the best mileage I've ever gotten is 15mpg. And that's what it got when I just filled it up. I am also planning to bring up the oil consumption issue, it uses about a quart every 3,000 which really bothers me. I hope they don't just wiggle a few wires. I sure hope they find the problems and fix them, if not I'm gettin ready to take a huge loss, and I sure won't buy another new GM product ever again. As far as driving it regularly, I can't afford it due to the crazy gas prices, especially if I have to use medium grade, It's nearing 2 bucks a gallon. I only use it mostly on the weekends in the summer to take my atv to the mountains. My commute to work is 30 miles one way. Besides, I feel dumb driving an empty truck back and forth. Thanks for all the info.

thomasc

Chevyck1: Good luck with your truck. I'd be surprised if the dealership worries too much about the oil consumption--I had a roommate in college whose parents bought a brand new Chevy van. It used about a quart every 1000 miles and the dealership considered it "normal". Personally, I would have driven it into the service department via the side wall of the building. On the bright side, the engine lasted a long time (well over 100k miles). They just had to buy oil a case at a time. The rough idle you're experiencing may indeed be a characteristic of the engine and not a problem. The injector problem I had was much, much more noticeable than the standard "rough idle." If your truck is actually missing, your "Check Engine" light will come on sooner or later. I do remember Popular Mechanic's long-term test vehicle, a '99 Silverado, blew a rocker arm and started missing. According to their report; however, the Check Engine light came on almost immediately.

Stevek: As I recall, lifter noise was common on the 5.7 engines. I would hear a faint tapping at times, particularly for the first few minutes. I've heard of some folks having much louder lifter noise. I'd suggest taking the truck to a different dealer for a second opinion. From what I've heard and read, the noise is not destructive--just annoying.

--TomC

chevyck1

Thanks for the advice. I've already made up my mind on selling it, but I had a question for you. Are Dodge and Ford V-8's known for losing oil and missing when they have low miles? Or is it just Chevy?

wtd

My 98 ext-cab Z-71 also has the rough idle. Last year I took it to three dealers and all said everything shows normal. I just live with it now. the truck seems to run fine.

thomasc

I traded my '97 Chevy on a '99 Dodge Quad Cab. It has only missed on startup twice--once appeared to be questionable gas quality (my wife's Montana missed the same morning) and the second time was this morning. I filled up last night, so I'll be able to tell if it's bad gas in the next day or so. Both times, a little tap on the accelerator cleared up the miss immediately. The '89 Ranger I had before the Chevy missed a couple of times on startup in the 100k I had it. Neither the Ranger or Dodge have a rough idle. I can't provide input on full-size Ford trucks because I've never owned one.
If you're contemplating the purchase of a Dodge
and you'd like my observations having driven one for a year, email me. My email address is tconrad "at" fuse "dot" net (sorry--that account hasn't been hit by spammers yet and I'd like to keep it that way). Since everyone knows I had terrible dealership service on the Chevy, I'll omit most of that information.

--TomC

powerisfun

My rough idle takes a few seconds to happen. For instance if I stop at a red-light, it idles normal for about 5-10 seconds then the rough idle kicks in. Does that sound similar to your idle? Other than that one small flaw, the truck runs like a dream, so that tends to make me rule out dirty injectors, etc.

chevyck1:
Regarding your engine's oil consumption, you might want to double check to make sure you're measuring correctly. First, when you change your oil, make sure you fill the filter with oil before installing it (you may not be able to fill it completely because it will spill during installation due to the fact that it goes in at an angle), then fill the crank case up to the full mark. Then run the truck for a few miles and after turning the truck off, wait about 15-20 minutes for the oil to fully drip back in the crank case and then check it. You'll probably need to add some as the filter will consume some and the engine parts may still be holding some. Once you top it off at that point, it's really full of oil (but not over-full).
The reason I say this is that if you didn't fill your filter with oil, once your truck has run for a few minutes, the filter will take about half a quart and if you check it 1000 miles later, you'll think that it burned that much. Just a thought.
-powerisfun

mit6

I was considering buying a 1996 Z71 ext. cab. but wondered how they did on gas mileage with the new Vortec engine?

chevyck1

Thanks for the idea, but I'm aware of the filter lowering the level, and it's not the filter. As far as the idle, it' sounds about right, I can't really tell you for sure, cuz I'm kinda unfamiliar with the truck, I've driven it maybe 500 miles in the last 3-4 months, and will probably drive it another 500 miles in the next year because gas is $1.60, and at 15mpg, it'll sit for a long time now. I contacted GM about the gas consumption, and they said it falls within the "range" specified by them. I swear, you can't get anywhere with them, they always have a loop hole in their favor. Do you have any ideas as to how I could sell it fast? I'll take 24k, that's a heck of a deal. I'm not selling it so much cuz it's a bad truck, just that I can't afford to drive it, and rather than to let it rott, someone can get some good use out of it.

chevyck1

I get 15mpg, powerisfun gets 18-21, I'm not exactly sure we have the same gear ratio though.
How much is the going price for that 96 if you don't mind my asking? I'll give you a heck of a deal on a 99c/k w 12,000 miles, and all the amenities. I need to sell it cuz I can't afford to drive it anymore. Gas here is $1.60 a gallon, and I drive 30 miles one way to work.

jlflemmons

Folks,
I have experienced a really odd safety issue. On
pre-99 GM trucks, especially the 95-98 models,
there has been a problem with the positive post on
the factory battery leaking. When this happens,
the acid flows down the positive cable and drips
onto the fenderwell. Then it will flow down the
fender well and drip on the metal brake line for
the right front brake. I saw a technical bulletin
on this, I think in NTHSA. But more importantly,
I saw this happen on my '96 GMC. Luckily, it was
found before too much damage was done to the brake
line. I still think I will replace it.

Jim

mit6

anyone else gas mileage on a 96 Z71 ext. cab?
I'm interested in what others are getting?

powerisfun

Just to expand on what chevyck1 mentioned about my mileage. I get 18-19.5 mpg in the winter (about 90% highway driving at 65 mph, 10% city) and 20-21.2 mpg in the summer (same percentages). My truck is a '98 GMC Sierra Z71 with ext-cab, 5.7L engine, 3.73 axles, P265 tires, and 4-sp. auto trans. The '98's are essentially unchanged from the '96's.
My uncle has the same exact truck as me, except that it's a '97. He told me his mileage is 18-19 mpg if he goes the speed limit (65 mph), but drops to 14-15 if he goes 75-80 mph (I never go that fast for more than a few seconds when I'm passing someone, so it's not a concern for me). That's probably true in general especially with trucks since wind resistance is much greater for them.

-powerisfun

stevek

My '97 Z71 with the 5.7L Vortec gets about the same as powersifun's does

powerisfun

Just out of curiosity, could you tell me where your trucks were made? The plant location should be on the bottom of your window sticker (and I think it's also on the driver-side door sticker inside). Mine was made at the Oshawa, Canada plant.
-powerisfun

chevyck1

My truck was made in Texas, I'm not too sure what city the plant is off hand, but there's this cheesy sticker on the inside of the door jamb in the shape of the state of Texas that says "Built in Texas by Texans". Maybe that's why you get better gas mileage!

stevek

Mine was made in Canada, I am in the North East.

lneil

Engine Rap.. I've had 3 engines in the 1998 GMC sierra with 5.7 liter. It had engine rap problems
from day one. Now 119 days in the shop for repairs.

Stevek: GM quotes anything less than 1 quart of oil for 1,000 miles is consider normal. You also get the same from FORD.

Powerisfun: You must be one of the few that got a good truck, which seems rare today with GM.

This will be my last GM ever, and same goes for the people I work with. GM doesn't stand behind their product at all levels, right up to the president.
Just waiting to here what I need to do next.
Waisted a TON of money! VERY SAD !! I liked what GM Advertised and promoted, But extremely disappointed they don't practice what they preach.

chevyck1

Why don't you check into your local lemon laws? Call the Attorney general, Better Business Bureau!
Raise some hell! I checked into our law here in NM, and it states your vehicle has to be non-driveable, and in your case that applies, especially after 3 engines. I'm sure it is similar elsewhere. Is it still under warranty?
If it's still under warranty, I'd make them buy it back, even if I had to get a lawyer myself.

alt4

I have a 2k Silverado LT Z71 (4dr), so far (1000 miles) I have no problems. The only one minor complaint is that when wearing the seatbelt and braking the drivers seatback moves forward a little and then goes back when you come to a stop. The passengers side does not seem to do this. The truck has 6 way power bucket seats. Since the seat backs aren't hinged like they would be on a two door car, I don't think this play is normal. I could live with this minor thing if there all like this, but if it could be fixed it would be nice. Before I go to the dealer and he tells me its normal it would be nice to know if it really is.
Thanks, AL
AJTessier@att.net

4x4man

All...

I have a 1997 Silverado, 4x4, 5.7L, 4spd auto, 245 75 R16 tires, and not sure on the ratio, probably 3.73's, but I get about 16 mpg mostly highway doing 60-65 mph. I thought that was pretty good for a truck, especially with oxygenated gas (yuck!!)...if I wanted gas mileage I would have bought another Saturn and got 40 mpg like my wife does...by the way I am in Colorado.

alt4:
My seat back moves a little forward when stopping also, however, I have manual seats with power lumbar control. It is not much and I don't loose sleep over it.

Bob

nick58

Is the V6 large enough for the LS SB extended cab. Prefer standard shift but can't decide between 6 & 8. Not used for hauling. Mainly transportation

okkid

I could use a little help. I have a 97 1/2 silverado that I bought new. After the first 16 months and 35,000 miles the transmission would shift very hard from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3. I took it in and they replaced the transmission with a new one. Now 17 months after the replacement and 34,000 miles the "new" transmission did exactly what the old one did. No more warranty. What the hell is wrong with the damm thing. My dad has a 98 with no problems and 70,000 miles. Oh I have also had the fuel injection plug up twice already.

chevyck1

Is it normal for a truck to loose a quart of transmission fluid after the first 13,000 miles?

thomasc

Okkid:

I'd suggest taking your truck to a reputable transmission specialist (NOT the dealer) and have them check it out. When the dealer changed your transmission, did they change everything (torque converter, etc.) or just the transmission. Perhaps you have a problem that didn't get fixed by simply swapping the tranny. I've read numerous complaints of harsh (but not severe) shifts--my truck used to shift hard and I liked it because soft shifts = slippage = earlier transmission death. My truck didn't shift hard enough to blow the transmission, though! Did this problem just start all at once?

Chevyck1:

I assume the 13,000 miles you refer to is since you bought the truck and not since you had the fluid changed, right? Have you checked it regularly and noticed it dropping or was that your first check? My '97 Chevy was about a quart low from the factory--I didn't notice it until about 5k miles. I didn't find a leak, so I mentioned it to the dealership on my next monthly visit. They didn't find anything wrong (no surprises there) and it never went down any more. I'd just crawl underneath and look for leaks. If you don't see any, keep an eye on it to make sure it's not a chronic problem. I'd definitely report it to the dealership service department the next time you take it--make sure they list it on the service order so it will be "on the record" in case your transmission falls apart 500 miles out of warranty.

--TomC

chevyck1

Yes, it's 13k miles since new, and I don't remember checking the transmission fluid, and if I have before, then it wasn't low, cuz I would've remembered, and of course added a quart. I'll check underneath this weekend when I change the oil, and grease it. I took it to the dealer the first two times to change it, but it's just too much trouble, plus I don't trust them, what if they choose to "skip" those hard to get-to grease fittings, or what if they don't tighten the filter or plug properly. I just can't trust some minimum wage kid on my truck. On my previous motor oil consumption, I noticed some oil splattered on top of the valve covers, so I washed the engine out, and cleaned the the pcv valve, and I'll check now how it does, this time it's at 3,000 miles and only used slightly less than 3/4 of a quart. I was thinking, if it at least lasts to 50k miles,or till I at least pay it off, I can then replace the engine with a zz crate engine, and a 5 speed tranny, and rip out all that computer junk, and get a straight axle kit for it too. I was going to sell it, but I'll lose to much, and plus I still need a truck, and a new one will cost me 60 bucks more a month, plus my wife can't like the new silverados, and I can't trust a Ford or Dodge.

bquick

I'm getting the overboost steering problem in my 97 Ext. cab 2WD. Dealer said it didn't do it for them. So I disconected fuse 21. Doesn't do it anymore. What steering do I have now? High or low boost. I'd rather have heavy mode for control. (after all it is a truck)
Also, truck wanders on the highway like it's windy when it's not.
And, it has a nasty shudder when towing between 10 and 30 mph.
THANKS for any input!

chevyck1

My gas mileage is further down for no reason. I filled up today, and it calculated at 11.7 mpg, and I didn't drive any different than usual, and last time it did 15 mpg, and part of that was towing my ATV around! I might as well be running a 454 for that matter. Does anyone have any suggestions as to why gas mileage is soooooo poor on a 99 C/K 1500 vortec 350 auto ext cab-13k-miles? And yes I've contacted the dealer, and they say it falls within the "range" specified by GM,-go figure!

thomasc

Good luck on removing your computer components--I know someone who tried that on a much older car (an '86 Cougar) that had much less computer integration and his car never ran right again. Don't forget that even your speedometer and gauges are controlled by the computer now--remove it and you'll probably have to use a stopwatch and mileposts to measure your speed! I agree totally about the hidden grease fittings. I only had my oil changed by someone else twice--the first time, they didn't grease the idler arm, the second time they seemed to find everything. You may want to rethink your Dodge/Ford opinion--I had 102k basically trouble-free miles on my '89 Ranger that I sold when I bought the Chevy. That truck is up to 140k now with almost no additional problems (O.K., the exhaust shield fell off and a u-joint went out). After dumping the Chevy that gave me 31k miles of chronic problems, I bought a used '99 Dodge that I now drive daily. So far, I've put almost 10,000 miles on it with no trips to the dealership except for a transmission fluid change (the previous owner had towed with it so I thought I'd be safe). The Dodge guzzles gas like you wouldn't believe but it goes about its business without complaining (or breaking down). Of course, if all that I read is true, the transmission could go at any time without warning!

bquick:

If you removed the steering controller fuse, you have permanently soft steering. Your particular overboost problem is caused by the steering speed sensor going whacko. If the steering controller senses a problem, it immediately shuts down the system and opens the orifice on the back of the pump, providing full boost. Removing the fuse does the same thing. My (former) dealership said you could replace the steering box with a '95 version to get a more consistent boost level. By the way, NHTSA has a defect investigation going on '98 GM SUVs for that exact problem. I wouldn't be surprised if that steering system is recalled at some time in the future. I only know of one owner of a '97 or '98 GM full-size truck that HASN'T had a steering problem yet. The opposite of your problem (loss of steering boost at low speeds) drove me to get rid of my '97. There was no known fix for that problem at the time (short of installing 13" Yugo tires). So far, I don't miss that flaky steering system at all! Whoever designed that system should be run over by a Hummer.

--TomC

chevyclunk

Perhaps some one can help me. I bought a new 96 Z71, 3:42 rear, 5.7 liter. Truck dumped its first trans at <500 miles, had new one installed, this started loosing the shift on the 2-3 gear shift. Dealer installed new computor and problem fixed however there was a noticeable clunk on the 2-3 shift. Dealer changed differential, foamed the driveshaft to dampen the noise ( this just caused a severe vibration) and changed the driveshaft. Then came back and told me it was "normal" and there was nothing they could do with it. Went to another dealer who had an excellent Trans guy. He went throught the entire driveline and told me that there was nothing anyone could do. The clunk was there and that was it. The noise has not gotton any worse over the years, 88,000 miles now, It does get a little louder in the winter when its cold out. I am planning to sell the truck soon and buy a new one. Does anyone have a similar problem. I know of one other guy that has the exact same issue and was told the same thing. My concern is that when I try to sell it who will believe it when I tell them that the noise they here is "normal"!!!! The truck is in excellent shape otherwise. If I cant sell it for as fair price I am considering taking legal action against G.M. Please advise

sjspor

This reply is for nick58, Nick, I have 97 X-cab short box with the V6, 5 speed and 3.42 axle. While no speed demon, it has all the power I need. I mainly use it for day to day driving, basicly a full size car with a big trunk. I pull a pop up camper 3 or 4 times a year, and it has no problem with that as well. The real benefit is the 20-21 miles per gallon driving back and forth to work. I have seen as high as 23 on highway trips. This is going to be hard to find used, because it was damm near impossible to order. At least now with gas prices going over 1.60 in NY, maybe the dealers won't insist that I don't want a V-6 or a 5 speed.

stevek

My '97 K1500 had the speed sensor replaced on the bottom of the steering column for less than a $100.00 which fixed the boost problem. It happened at 85K miles.

bquick

Help.....I disconnected my #21 fuse and I'm still getting this jerking, like hitting an ice patch. Almost like the balljoints catching. Did it 3 times in a row then went away for hours. I don't like the idea of towing my race car with wacky steering. Is there a way that I could get the speed sensitive steering in heavy mode all the time?

amage

I JUST PURCHASED A 98 1500 5.7L 4X4 36000MI IAM HEARING A LOUD WHINE COMING FROM THE FUEL PUMP TOOK BACK TO DEALER HE SAID YOURS IS ONE OF THE QUIET ONES HE SAID THEY ALL DO THAT CANT BELIEVE IT IS THERE ANY TRUTH TO THE MATTER. P.S. LOVE THE TRUCK

thomasc

Sorry to tell everyone this, but my service advisor, along with everyone else I know that owns a similar truck, says "They all do that!"

BQuick:
As far as I know, there's no way to make the steering permanently hard--that would involve fully activating the orifice on the power steering all the time to provide minimal boost. When you pull the fuse, the opposite effect occurs. Are you sure you pulled the right fuse? It sounds like the system is still working (er, still NOT working). If you did yank the right fuse, I'd have your front end checked to make sure nothing else is binding. My (former) dealership service manager told me some power steering pumps were made with tolerances that were too tight. They rebuilt, then replaced mine to no avail--who knows, perhaps it could fix yours. If you're out of warranty, there's nothing binding in the front end, and you don't want to have the speed sensor replaced, I'd probably do what the service manager suggested I do--replace the power steering pump with an older (i.e., 1995-1996) model that DOESN'T have the orifice on it.
Good luck!

amage: My (former) service manager told me the same thing about my fuel pump. Mine howled like a banshee and he said it was "normal". Judging from the countless other Chevy trucks I've heard that sound worse than mine ever did, I'd say he's correct. That's a very annoying sound, but it appears to be normal.

chevyclunk: From what I've read, the driveline clunk is caused by a loose fit between the drive shaft and the output shaft of the transmission. On my truck, it was most noticeable when I'd let off the gas--CLUNK! If that's also your problem, there may be a (partial) solution. GM recommends a special type of grease for this exact problem. Apparently, the grease is rather thick and cushions the parts to reduce the noise. I wouldn't worry too much about the noise at resale time--if my truck was any indication, they really "all do that!". Nobody cared when I traded mine in. As I recall, there is a TSB on the NHTSA web site that addresses this problem
(www.nhtsa.dot.gov). Good luck!

--TomC

thomasc

Actually, my wording of my last post may have sounded like I work at a dealership (i.e., "my service advisor"). I'm not a professional mechanic, nor do I play one on T.V. I'm an engineer who simply got mad when I was told "They all do that!" in response to every problem I had with the truck (and there were many...). As a result, I dug into the factory service manuals, hit the auto repair web sites, talked to friends who are mechanics, and had several long talks with the service manager at the Chevy dealership. That, combined with many hours under the truck, is where I get my information. I just wanted to clear that up...

--TomC

bquick

Thanks TomC: According to the owners manual #21 fuse is only for the "speed sensitive steering".
I am still under warranty and would like to try to get it resolved before it's done for (or I am)
Dealer checked the front end and said the wheel brgs were a bit loose but that's it. They thought that the belt may slip occaisionally causing the jerking. I was thinking of putting fresh PS fluid in on the idea that the orifice (valve) would work smoother (better). Will a dealer put in a 95 box w/o a MAJOR fight? Is there any official acknowledgement of this problem?
THANKS

mconran

I have a Silverado S/b Extend cab with a 350. I don't think a smaller engine would do it justice. I get 15 miles to the gallon (imperial measure) and enjoy all the power. If looking for gas mileage buy an S10.

jlflemmons

Gentlemen (and ladies if present)
Yes, the fuel pumps are noisey. My '96 had a quiet one when new, but it died at 10K miles. The current one is really noisey, but it has worked for 40K miles with no problem.
Now, about that clunk. One of the problems with the extended cab truck is the two-piece drive shaft. Many lube places are not aware that there is a grease fitting on the rear shaft yoke that must be greased at every oil change. If not, it will begin to clunk and even "jerk" when you come to a stop and when you start out. I had a '94 that I bought used that did this, and greasing would not help. I bought my '96 new and have greased it regularly and have no noise at 50K miles. If you don't see the fitting, run your hand around the yoke of the rear drive shaft as it me be on top where you cannot see it. But trust me, it is there and it really should be maintained.

Jim

thomasc

bquick: I had numerous friendly discussions with the service manager before he offered to swap the pump. I had to convince him there actually was a problem with the steering--he didn't believe me until he drove one of the demonstrator '98 trucks they had on the lot for the weekend and experienced it for himself. I never actually had the pump replacement done because I decided it wasn't worth taking the risk on a $30k (sticker) truck. I was afraid that it wouldn't fix the problem (I had the opposite problem you have--no boost at low speeds) and that a non-standard steering system would be noticable if I decided to get rid of the truck. Finally, I decided it was easier to dump the truck than to try to decide what to do about it. On the bright side, NHTSA is currently performing a defect investigation on '97 and '98 Chevy full size SUVs for erratic power steering performance. Since these vehicles have the same system as the trucks, there's hope that GM will finally see the light and admit there's a problem. Better yet, maybe NHTSA will force a recall. (For details, see www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/defect and enter '97/Chevrolet Truck/Yukon, Tahoe, or Suburban). Your dealership should at least replace the steering sensor for you if you're under warranty. That will correct your problem for a while.

jflemmons: My '97 K1500 Ext. Cab had a one-piece composite (looked like carbon fiber to me) rear driveshaft about 4" in diameter that had no grease fittings on the shaft or U-joints. The front driveshaft, however, was a two-piece unit that did have a fitting. Perhaps the "plastic" (used jokingly, of course) driveshaft was new for '97. My truck still clunked.

--TomC

thomasc

I would strongly urge anyone experiencing the steering problem to contact NHTSA and fill out a complaint form. The phone number is 1-888-DASH-2-DOT. They'll take your information over the phone and then send a form for you to sign. It's quick, easy, and it does get the manufacturer's attention when enough people complain. A problem in a vehicle's steering system is something that shouldn't be downplayed by a manufacturer.

--TomC

wtd

My 98 ext-cab Z-71 has a somewhat noisy fuel pump but its not too bad. My truck also has a clunk in drivetrain on the 2-3rd shift sometimes. I've never taken it in for this because no one on any of the forums seem to be able to get it fixed and my dealer said that they all do it.

27jr

Next time do not buy chevy. Edmunds states they look cheap looking inside and poor quality.

thomasc

Remember, "They all do that!" is a little like the word "ain't". As we all know, "ain't" can mean "he isn't", "she isn't", "it isn't" and more! Similarly, "they all do that!" can mean:
"We don't know how to fix it."
"We won't fix it."
"It's easier to tell you they all do it than fix it."

Thus, if it worries you and they say "they all do that!", I'd suggest complaining loudly until they do something about your problem. They should at least tell you WHY "they all do that".

--TomC

einsteinalbert

The clunk is cured by applying GM grease 12345879
to the sliding spline portion of the driveshaft so
it will no longer stick in the extended position.
No other grease works. It costs $30 for a pint
can but you can beg a little from the mechanic at
your local dealership. It is pale yellow in color. It contains a very high % of teflon powder. There is a bulletin about it, 92-265-7A, formerly 91-242-7A. I also recommend, while you have the driveshaft out, slightly rounding the corners of the spline teeth.

Brakes pulling to one side can be caused by front
brake hoses that are delaminating inside. If there is no visible or obvious problems with bad wheel bearings, scored rotors, seized up caliper slides, then replace both right and left hoses (cheap to do) before doing any other (usually expensive) work.

Albert Einstein

4x4man

Give me a break.... don't buy chevy because "Edmunds states they are cheap looking and poor quality"
Do you own a Chevy?? I just got my 97 Silverado last month and I love it. So what makes it cheap looking inside?? Plastic, hmmm every truck has plastic inside...umm lets see here, cloth seats..hmmm I think all trucks have that...but wait there's leather too...hmmm even Chevy has leather, like the rest of the trucks out there...poor quality?? were?? which truck, new ones or old ones?? Sure chevy is the only one that has ever had problems with their vehicles and everyone else builds perfect vehicles...give me a break, this web site for the most part has nothing but good things to say about fords and crap for the rest. Ever hear of piston slap from ford engines?? That is poor quality.. Ever hear of the '99 Mustang Cobra's not putting out the rated horsepower they were supposed to??? Hmmm, poor quality. Ever hear of trans problems with Dodge??

I could go on, sure chevy isn't perfect, but the other guys aren't either.

thomasc

Thanks for an excellent answer on the clunk and brakes! Now, what do you think about relativity?

--TomC

powerisfun

Everyone always picks on GM cars for having "cheap looking plastic". Every car from every manufacturer I've ever been in has "cheap looking plastic". For some reason they hold GM to a higher standard on that particular feature and I'm tired of hearing about it.
Onto another rant: Cars today are so complex that it would be impossible not to have some problems (and that goes for all brands, foreign and domestic, low-end and high-end prices). If you really think that "for $30,000 it should be perfect" as some people have stated, you better keep your money, because chances are ain't going to happen. I've been lucky with my truck, it really has been close to perfect, but I've also only got 15,000 miles on it.