Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager Starting & Stalling Problems

191012141526

Comments

  • nag3nag3 Posts: 2
    hello everyone this is a great forum it's really informative. There was one post here I read someone found out that when he/she tried to fix there quest from dying on him/her when hot but when cold it would start up nice and smooth, but after a couple of few feet it would start chugging like is was out of gas but it had gas.
    Well i have the same problem but only thing is, i changed the fuel pump thinking that was the problem and the fuel filter and took it to my Neighborhood Mechanic to check the fuel pressure and the regulator, well the mechanic said everything checked out good , But he also said that he ran a diagnostic and electrical check it came back saying the it was an electrical Problem, and he told me to "Replace the PCM or Powertrian Control Modual or the computer.
    But when i came to this forum to read up i found a gay/gal saying that when they replaced the distributor everything was fine? i think my self it also is the distributor , cuz the PCM is hard to break down am i right? and the PCM controls alot of sensors which would also show symptoms if the PCM went bad? Please guys/gals help me figure this one out i would really appreciate it Thank You :)
  • jmaliksjmaliks Posts: 1
    I was at a light on a hill pointing up hill and after 30 seconds the van just shut off. There was no sputter or other warning it just stopped. The ignition turned over but it would not start. Pushed to the curb and still would not start. Battery and electrical all strong. Towed to the house and no Change. This is all of a sudden. There did not seem to be any sigh of trouble prior to this. Any thoughts?
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,919
    Timing belt? How many miles are on it?

    Since you mentioned that it was pointing uphill when it quit, are you thinking it may be a fuel problem?

    Steve, visiting host
  • I had a similar problem parked facing uphill with just under a quarter tank of gas in 20 degree weather...just stopped and wouldn't start.
    put some more gas in it from a can and it started right up.
    The pick-up in the gas tank is near the front (parked face up a hill, all the gas will be at the back) and with a little moisture in the tank the screen on the pump froze up just enough to drop the pressure.
  • I have a 99 mercury villager that starts and runs fine for about 20 mins then dies. Will start back up and keeps dying at idle. When i keep the rpms up driving like a race car driver with one foot one gas and one on brake i can usually get around for a while. Other times i cant do that. It has been in the shop for three weeks and this is what has been done. New fuel filter, fuel pump tested fine, timing belt checked out fine. He tried an aftermarket maf(mass air flow) sensor and it ran awhile only to do the same thing again. He sent the maf back. He had a Nissan mechanic come to his shop to check it out. He said its usually one of two problems. water/ rust in the computer or the maf sensor. There was no rust in the computer and he then reccommended a oem (original equipment manufactured) maf sensor which costs $400. His nissan friend said that he has had several problems with after market sensors and you absolutely need to have the oem maf. My mechanic is now having his nissan friend come back and run a special diagnostics test (i guess a more high tech one for nissan engines) to see if it throws the code for the maf. I will know more this afternoon about what code he gets. The only code I got from auto zone was a knock sensor and several mechanics told me that it is not the problem with the van. Keep in mind that my vans check engine light is not on. I know it works because it lights up when you turn on the ignition and then goes off right away. Anyone have any suggestions as to what this problem is? And anyone know if it really matters if you get the oem mass air flow or should any one auto zone sells be fine? Please respond with any info you have. I am unemployed and certainly cant afford useless costly parts put on my van. :mad:
  • Mark,
    I've searched the net for weeks and asked everyone i know and have come to the conclusion there is no easy fix for this. My '96 was fine until last month when it started crapping out when it warmed up. Cool off and it runs good, fifteen minutes later it's a bucking bronco. Won't restart til it cools off. I've replaced a ton of parts on it and still no luck. I'm amazed that so many have the same problem and no one can come up with a solution. When I'm looking at 400 dollar maf sensors and 600 distributors I'm thinking that those two items alone equall the current value of the vehicle. I won't do it. It's been a great van and I've owned it for nine years, but all good things come to an end. Good luck.
    Red
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,919
    The '96's distributors are different from the '99s. The coil (and something else) are inside the distributor on the '99 generation. Aftermarket ones for the '99 run around $200.
  • petakapetaka Posts: 12
    In the old days when the ignition coils were separate the diagnose was simple. When the engine compartment, and hence the coil got hot, the engine would die. You would push your car to the side and wait for things to cool off.
    The solution was to replace the coil, not the distributor. I think that might still be valid for any car that has a separate coil, and I said might because with today's cars I am not completely sure but this could be used as a lead.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,919
    I read somewhere searching around yesterday that you can get some "cold shot" spray stuff at the parts store and when the van dies, hit the distributor with the cold shot. If the van restarts, that's supposed to narrow down the problem to the distributor.

    That test is supposed to work on the newer style distributors too.
  • grtfredgrtfred Posts: 1
    I was having a misfire problem. Scan said knock sensor. Scans can be misleading.
    The bearing in the distributor had gone out. Opened the distributor, there were many small metal flakes inside. Replaced the distributor, runs fine. Note; the timing marks are hard to find. The pointer is right under a hose fitting that is steel colored among the black. Stand by the right front wheel facing left. May have to push a hose to the side. Aim your timing light down through a small space and you'll see the pointer right above the pulley with the marks. Took me a lot of searching with a flashlight to find it.--Good luck, Fred
  • cheri6cheri6 Posts: 21
    I just bought a 93 villager with 102,000 miles on it and it seems to bogg out and lose power when going up a longer hill. It also slightly cuts in and out after the hill on flat ground. Then sometimes when it is warmer out it loses power on the highway. I can floor it and it acts like it isn't getting any gas. When I remove the gas cap, a lot of air pressure comes out. It definately runs better when it is cold or colder out. The fuel pump was just changed to correct the problem but the problem is still there so it must not be that. I am worried about when the weather gets really hot. Does anyone know what else it might be? Thank you for any help with this.
  • canyonsvocanyonsvo Posts: 23
    Same problem here with a 2000 model. The check engine light had been on for quite some time with a vss error. I didn't want to mess with replacing that sensor as the van had always driven fine. Last week my wife calls and says she is stranded. I managed to limp the car home and changed the plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor, fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. Started it up, ran great, super! Not so. After the engine reaches operating temperature (10 minutes or so) it cuts out misses. The cel now has a code for knock sensor. WTF? If I can find a cheap dizzy from a junk yard I'll try replacing that. But I really hate to keep throwing parts at this thing.
  • markhagenmarkhagen Posts: 5
    Well everyone. As i thought it after reading these posts in here and after 1 month in the shop it turned out to be the distributor. After talking with several mechanics a knock sensor is in no way urgent to get replaced and is not the problem your having. Mine throws that code now and it runs just fine. I would check the distributor. The van runs great now but im selling it. thanks to all on here for your help.
  • cheri6cheri6 Posts: 21
    The guy at nissan explained that as the barrings in the distributor wear, they throw metal shavings around in there and they dirty up the inside of the distributor. This causes those barrings to become smaller and when they heat up they just roll around in there and cause the misfiring to happen. A remanufactured distributor is 200 buck! A brand new one is $385! Then 50 bucks to the mechanic to install. Not a cheap fix unfortunately. Especially after you have already changed other parts. I did find a distributor at a junk yard for $45 but I worry that this might have the same problem. But I wonder if a person can open the distributor themselves and clean it out. I think I read that others have just done that and fixed it that way. Does anyone know about fixing the distributor itself? Can that be done? It sure would be cheaper. Thanks
  • cheri6cheri6 Posts: 21
    The guy at nissan explained that as the barrings in the distributor wear, they throw metal shavings around in there and they dirty up the inside of the distributor. This causes those barrings to become smaller and when they heat up they just roll around in there and cause the misfiring to happen. A remanufactured distributor is 200 buck! A brand new one is $385! Then 50 bucks to the mechanic to install. Not a cheap fix unfortunately. Especially after you have already changed other parts. I did find a distributor at a junk yard for $45 but I worry that this might have the same problem. But I wonder if a person can open the distributor themselves and clean it out. I think I read that others have just done that and fixed it that way. Does anyone know about fixing the distributor itself? Can that be done? It sure would be cheaper. Thanks
  • canyonsvocanyonsvo Posts: 23
    Getting expensive fast! I'm into it about $300 so far, and that is with me doing all of the work! I just ordered a new dizzy off of Ebay for $160 shipped. If that is not the problem, I think I may crush this thing.
  • canyonsvocanyonsvo Posts: 23
    If fixed it! I took off the distributor cap, rotor and cover plate. I noticed some metal shavings around the bearing/shaft area. Using compressed air and a pencil magnet I was able to remove metal shavings that amount to about a dime sized piece when lumped together. I put a light amount of white lithium grease on the bearings and reassembled everything. Runs better than ever! I just drove about 15 miles and get no hiccup from the engine at all.
  • canyonsvocanyonsvo Posts: 23
    still going strong two days later.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,919
  • cheri6cheri6 Posts: 21
    Good Job. glad to hear you got it fixed. I have a question for you.
    Do you think that a person could get away with just cleaning the metal shavings out and still using the same distributor, or do you have to replace the entire distributor? I just hate to spend all this money! Thanks, Cheri
Sign In or Register to comment.