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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager Starting & Stalling Problems

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  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 979
    Hi, rich_92,

    Since it seems that there hasn't been an answer here, you might try asking the folks in the Idle or Stalling Problems: All Vehicles discussion. Just click the link to get there.

    MODERATOR
    Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • Thanks for the reply. But I wanted to tell you that I've faced this problem on cold mornings & what I do now is to heat up the engine by revving it up to 3500 rpm for like 2 mins. After that there are'nt any stalls. Besides I find the exhaust smells of gas. It does not come inside the van but when I step out it smells quite a bit. Do you have a clue? I was thinking of replacing the spark plugs, fuel filter & maybe the oxygen sensor.

    Regards.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,845
    Hi Rich, I'm not a wrench turner but I'd clean my throttle body first to rule that out. It's a issue with my '99 Quest every year or so, but my symptoms are a sticky throttle, not a stall when I'm coasting.

    Another easy thing to do is swing by an auto parts store and ask them to see if any codes are being thrown off - lots of places will do that for free.

    You could have something flaky going on with one of the computer modules or something too I suppose. There should be some ideas over in the stalling discussion that Claires linked to.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • I'm having the same prob with my 94 Villager (140K). It just started a week ago. It intermittently stalls on turns, while coasting, and after you start to pull away after a stop. It doesn't matter if the engine's warm or cold. It also has the strong exhaust fuel smell someone else mentioned, if that's related.
    Did you get it figured out on your van? Does anyone have any ideas?
  • You checked all vacumn hoses? Air leak could cause too rich condition with EMS computer which would give you fuel smell. FD
  • Thanks, will have it checked.
    Mechanic found out the stalling issue is due to the "idle air control valve". One of the solenoids on it is broke. Will put it in this week and see what happens! Just wanted to update in case someone else has this prob.
  • Hi Villagerwoes, were you able to verify that your fuel pump was the cause of your starting issue (post #1826)? My 95 Quest has exactly the same problem as you described, and my mechanic is stumped. :confuse: He has tried replacing the mass flow sensor and the ignition coil so far, but these have not solved the problem
  • Here is my problem. 1997 Villager 98k miles. Nothing major repaired on it. I know I know, bad owner. Okay, check engine light always on. I have pulled the codes myself and it is the 3rd gear ratio problem. Okay, got it to go away before deployment to Iraq. When I got back it was fine, lasted about 3 months, then boom check engine light. Okay, now I have some other symptoms. Sometimes when I take off from stop it surges then stalls. Starts back fine in N and I take off. The idle acts like it sticks. RPM about 200 above normal with foot off gas, I rev it up a bit and comes back down to normal. I have some ideas what it might be but just wondering if anyone else has this problem. Thanks
  • Ok, another prob. Just recently returned from long road trip. Van ran fine the whole time except for a couple of stalling issues and high idle problems. Okay, returning through the dallas area I was driving about 7O MPH when I noticed engine surging. Like a idiot I stomped on the gas. It picked back up and I thought all was well. I was wrong. The first time I let off the gas it died out. So I pull to the side. Tried to restart and got the really rough idle and really low. No throttle response, and when you gave it gas, it died. Ok, had this issue before about year ago, popped the hood and checked all plug wires. Two things found. The bottom three plug wires seemed to be really loose. The top left one, the hard one to get to, same thing. Pushed them all on except top left one, engine was a little warm. Did the best I could. Got back in and started it up, seemed fine. I resume driving and about 5 minutes does it again. Now I have established something, engine bay warms up and problem occurs. I am thinking plug wires, ok so find autozone, replace all wires. Take off again and it last about 15 minutes and does again. Well, it was close to evening and I knew the weather would cool off. Waited till almost night fall and tried again, did not have a problem again for the remaining 200 miles. So here is my question, do I still have issue or did the gremlins take a break. Anyone else dealing with this. Please give me ideas. Thanks
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 895
    If your Villager is hard to start, have your mechanic check your fuel pressure regulator. My 2001 was very hard to start, especially when warm, requiring me to pump the accelerator to start/keep it running. The fuel pressure regulator fixed that, and I get better mileage also.
  • Must be a cursed area. We had similar problems in the Dallas area as well as we were vacationing. We had many different repairs done but the repair that I believe fixed it was new distributor.
  • :confuse: Did you ever get to the bottom of your cold starting problems?? We recently sold a very nice 95 Quest with 88k miles, loaded with every option for $3500. Now that the weather has turned cold it is almost impossible to start. Once started it runs fine, and will continue to re start. Problem seems to only occur when aprox 45 or less. We believe it is a fuel problem. Have checked all sensors, replaced all secondary ignition parts(plugs, cap, rotor, coil etc...) Checked fuel pressure, injector pulse, cleaned injectors, intake and valves. We also borrowed a CPU from a friends salvage yard, and replaced a mas-airflow sensor. Once started it runs very well. If we add fuel to the intake through a vacuum line it starts right up, so the problem is fuel related. We are leaning to replacing the fuel injectors, but that is an expensive proposition. We have checked and scanned just about everything else. Please tell me that you figured it out.
  • :confuse: Did you ever get to the bottom of your cold starting problems?? We recently sold a very nice 95 Quest with 88k miles, loaded with every option for $3500. Now that the weather has turned cold it is almost impossible to start. Once started it runs fine, and will continue to re start. Problem seems to only occur when aprox 45 or less. We believe it is a fuel problem. Have checked all sensors, replaced all secondary ignition parts(plugs cap rotor coil etc...) Checked fuel pressure, injector pulse, cleaned injectors, intake and valves. We also borrowed a CPU from a friends salvage yard, and replaced a mass airflow sensor. Once started it runs very well. If we add fuel to the intake through a vacuum line it starts right up, so the problem is fuel related. We are leaning to replacing the fuel injectors, but that is an expensive proposition. We have checked and scanned just about everything else. Please tell me that you figured it out.
  • mottsmotts Posts: 9
    Hey Guys, the rollar coaster ride begins again with the beige mobile.
    The past 2 months I have had the problem with the stubborn van not wanting to start. It seems to want to start when it's been resting for longer than a couple of hours but when we drive the vehicle then park for say 10 to 20 minutes it does not want to start.When I turn the Egnition switch to on position it does not turn over at all. I have taken the battery to check OK. My mechanic has replaced the negative ground wire from the battery to starter.Boy have I had my problems with this vehicle. It really has been quite the "QUEST" to fix this piece of metal. Motts :sick:
  • Have problems with 95 Villager starting on rainy days. The engine turns over but will not crank. No problems starting when it is a bright sunny day. Any ideas?
  • it sounds like a throttle position sensor going out..those can also be intermittent
  • Well I believe you are partially right. After I removed the TPS and messed with it for a minute I didn't think the max and min readings were correct. Anyways, I reinstalled the TPS, I put it in wrong the first time, i set it at .47 volts because it drops about 1 when you are running. It ran rough for about 2 days, smoothed out now. And guess what, the ever present check engine light has either burned out, hehe, or I actually fixed something.
    By the way if you are ever installing a TPS, ensure that you have the arm that catches the throttle body arm on the right side of each other. You will know if you don't because you will never get the correct voltage.
  • I have a 1993 nissan quest and kind of had similar problems, I had the fuel pump changed out and now it starts right up every time. The mechanic told me that something in the fuel pump was clogged or something.
  • mottsmotts Posts: 9
    Mechanic just recently replaced starter and have not had the problem re-occur.( Knocking on wood ) Still trying to solve the rear blower/heat not working, Motts
  • Had similiar problem with my 95 Villager.Replace FICD relay in relay box situated on left side of engine compartment.Stands for "Fast Idle Control Device".Trust me,this is most often overlooked when addressing stalling issue with Quest/Villager that
    coommonly aflicts these vehicles.
  • mottsmotts Posts: 9
    Hey guys, I'm not sure if you had the same problem as my 94 quest stalling. The van would stall when I would be slowing down specifically turning around the corner. The engine rpm gauge would jump/bounce below 500 and often stall the vehicle. I had the dealership replace the Air Idle Control Valve. That problem happened 3 years ago and have not occured again, hope this helps your "QUEST/VILLAGER", Motts :lemon:
  • Pretty much identical stalling characteristics to my Villager.However, rather than replacing entire Idle Control Valve,I replaced the FICD relay instead as this was the reason the Idle Control Valve wasn't working.The different terminologies,"Fast Idle Control Device" and "Idle Control Valve" are part the same unit working in conjunction with a relay.Just want to clear up some confusion.
  • muchomucho Posts: 1
    Hello, I have the same problem that Mitch in Missouri is having with his Quest. On long hills my Quest will run fine up to a certain point when suddenly it will begin to shudder, lose power and finaly come to a stop. Regardless of how much fuel I give it. After I sit on the side of the road for 10 min. or so it runs fine (unless the hill continues for more miles in which case the whole thing starts over again).

    Other than this my van runs great I love it. I have had the knock sensor fixed, replaced the belts and wires, had the intake manifold rebuilt but nothing changes this problem.

    The last time this happened as I was sitting on the side of the road waiting for my engine to cool down another 99 Quest packed full with 5 people raced past me going up the same hill I had been trying to climb?!!

    Does anyone have any clues to this problem? Mitch~ were you able to figure out how to fix your van.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated!

    thanks :confuse:
  • stigmatastigmata Posts: 10
    That sounds alot like what happened to me when I lost my fuel pump.
  • I have a 94 nissan quest. It start and then died. It want's to start but will not turn over. Any ideals?? :cry:
  • randeisrandeis Posts: 1
    Same exact problem on 1994 Villager. Six Mercury dealers couldn't read computer codes, nor could they fix it. Ford Motor Company (Mercury) service center won't answer emails. 1 Nissan dealer said they could read the codes but refused to work on a Mercury Villager. 3 top independent mechanics have given up.

    One dealer changed fuel pump. . . $700
    Another dealer changed timing chain. . . $500
    Another dealer changed Mass Airflow Sensor. . . $300
    Another dealer wanted to change timing chain. . .again
    Pep Boys read codes. Said leaky fuel injector. . . $60
    Injectors initial inspection passed.
    Changed all plugs, wires and rotor. . . $300
    All dealers (and others) said they could not read codes, due to the period in 1994, when Nissan switched from standard codes to a proprietary system, then immediately switched back.

    Symptoms:
    In neutral, engine races as normal and sounds great.
    In drive with foot on brake, engine bogs down heavily and won't pass 2000 rpm, yet sucks fuel.
    When placing in drive, engine struggles to move vehicle at first. Then after car becomes "lighter" due to moving at 20mph or so, the load is effectively taken away. Car surges, RPM spikes and we are off to the races with plenty of power.
    Intermittent stalling on idle after movement, such as at stop sign.

    144k mileage. No more than 100 miles in the past 2 years running from repair shop to repair shop.

    If anyone has resolved a similar problem, please post it here. Also, feel free to write me at my email address.

    Thanks, Rande
  • jrossmanjrossman Posts: 2
    I would reccomend checking the Distributor. I had exactly the same symptoms with a 96 and found the distributor to be the cause of all the problems.

    Joe
  • dmbslcdmbslc Posts: 2
    Hello Daryljoe,

    I was curious if you ever found out what was causing your problems when it warmed up? My 95 villager is doing the exact same thing.

    Thanks.
  • questerquester Posts: 3
    This would be an easy one for the mechanic, he only needed to switch two spark plug wires for this effect. Sounds fishy to me as well. I don't think I'd ever go back to that mechanic again. Be careful what you say about him, but I'd let my friends know about this experience and advise them to stay away.
  • fljewelsfljewels Posts: 2
    Recently my van has seemed sluggish to want to start. Sometimes it starts up just fine, other times it acts as if it is not going to start. It also doesn't seem to make any difference if it has been started recently or been sitting all day or night. It sounds as if there is plenty of power to start, it just doesn't want to turn over. Had the battery checked and it was fine. Read on another site that this problem could be caused by one or more of the following: fuel filter, fuel pump, starter, alternator, or timing belt/chain. Where should I start first? Is there more than one fuel filter and pump? Does my van have a belt or chain? and How much is a reasonable cost for getting the timing belt/chain changed? I don't have the tools or space for DIY type of repairs so I will have to take it to a repair shop.
    Thanks,
    fljewels
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