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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager Starting & Stalling Problems

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Comments

  • wp93wp93 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info. I looked up my old receipt and the injectors were actually $123 a piece. I don't know where I got $300. You still found a much better deal.
  • my car will not start, i was driving and it shut off in a restaurant parking lot. i had to start it several times to make it home. Once I got it home will try to start but has not started as of yet I have a 1996 Mercury Villager. Can anyone please help me?
  • We had a similar problem on our 95 a few years ago. Besides not starting, several other things did not work, such as radio, wipers, lights.
    Turned out to be a relay under the hood. There were two identical relays, the dealer swapped them until the replacement was shipped.
    This may not be your issue, but could be.
  • ebussebuss Posts: 12
    Have you tried resetting the fuel pump reset button on the left foot panel? Does the fuel pump run for about 5 seconds when you turn the key to the on position? Check these ideas and get back for more info. Earl
  • my 1996 Nissan Quest gxe has check engine light ON over the weekend. took it to for initial diagnostics. Technician told me 3 error codes 1 for knock sensor, 2 for 1st gear sensor, 3 is 3rd sensor problem. Advised to take it to dealers for fixing.
    When I called dealer, they don't know about 1st and 3rd gear sensors :)
    For knock sensor the price is varying 600-1000$. Is this right price for fixing. This is in CA.

    thanks.
  • I'm no expert, but I can tel you my 96' Villager had the knock sensor set the code a couple of times. After a full ignition tune up, it stopped setting that code. So, I think the code being there doesn't mesn the sensor is out of range, just that a "hard" code is set, meaning the sensor keeps sensing knock over and over. I don't know about transmision codes though. Resetting the "Check Engine Light" is easy, just remove the two push on wires you see on the + battery post, no tools required, just push down the clip and pull off both of them. Leave them off for about ten minutes, as quick remove and replace will not clear the codes.
  • Thanks Hend, your information is useful for resetting codes. Any way I want first dealer to read error codes again. This could be possible the my van is lost power (radio, clock are set to default) few times in 2005. It recovers it self, it could be the problem for knock sensor to detect some problem in ignition.

    thanks again.
  • I have a 96 villager. I love the thing. only problem i have ever had is random RPM failures. One time stopped running all together. Mechanic told me dirty sensor in distributor. well that was fine and dandy, but still random problem. It seems to run ok at cold temps then worse when warm then it will start to miss fire and then chug to stop. Ok here is something to think about. Wife was driving van and it stopped. When I arrived on the scene i opened the distributor cap and found that the screw that holds the rotor in place wiggled loose. I put the screw back in and it seem to run fine. but started jerking towards the end of the trip back to the house. Checked screw still tight. Now it will run but will start to fight for rpms when it gets warm. Last time it chugged to a stop the engine developed a loud screech at 1900 rpms and higher. It almost sounds like a belt but is coming from the back side of the engine towards the fire wall. The thing has had an engine light on randomly for about 2 years Maybe I am crazy but it almost sounds like a vacuum leek.

    Recap. Screw came out of the rotor. Replaced screw ran fine for about 5 miles then started to chug. Runs ok when cold then worse as it warms up. The engine fights for RPM until it stops running all together. Last time it stopped it developed a loud skreech at 1900 rpm and up. Sounds like b52 taking off. It still runs with loud screech but has noticeable loss of power when it does run ok. :sick:

    Any help would be great.
  • ebussebuss Posts: 12
    The loud screeching sound could be one of the belt tensioners, there is one for the air conditioner, and one for the power steering/water pump. The loss of power after warmup sounds to me like a faulty/ wearing out fuel pump. The bearing in the tensioners are the same, about $7.00 at auto part store (here locally Gogal's).
    I had the same problem with the dist screw coming loose. To fix, I put a little silicone gasket sealer on the threads. Good luck with the repairs, and please post the resulting repairs. Earl
  • Hi,
    I have the same problem with my 94 Mercury Villager. Still trying to figure out what the problem could be... Any luck??? Please let me know.
  • Claire@EdmundsClaire@Edmunds Chicago areaPosts: 968
    Hi, rich_92,

    Since it seems that there hasn't been an answer here, you might try asking the folks in the Idle or Stalling Problems: All Vehicles discussion. Just click the link to get there.

    Claire

    HOST

  • Thanks for the reply. But I wanted to tell you that I've faced this problem on cold mornings & what I do now is to heat up the engine by revving it up to 3500 rpm for like 2 mins. After that there are'nt any stalls. Besides I find the exhaust smells of gas. It does not come inside the van but when I step out it smells quite a bit. Do you have a clue? I was thinking of replacing the spark plugs, fuel filter & maybe the oxygen sensor.

    Regards.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,985
    Hi Rich, I'm not a wrench turner but I'd clean my throttle body first to rule that out. It's a issue with my '99 Quest every year or so, but my symptoms are a sticky throttle, not a stall when I'm coasting.

    Another easy thing to do is swing by an auto parts store and ask them to see if any codes are being thrown off - lots of places will do that for free.

    You could have something flaky going on with one of the computer modules or something too I suppose. There should be some ideas over in the stalling discussion that Claires linked to.
  • I'm having the same prob with my 94 Villager (140K). It just started a week ago. It intermittently stalls on turns, while coasting, and after you start to pull away after a stop. It doesn't matter if the engine's warm or cold. It also has the strong exhaust fuel smell someone else mentioned, if that's related.
    Did you get it figured out on your van? Does anyone have any ideas?
  • You checked all vacumn hoses? Air leak could cause too rich condition with EMS computer which would give you fuel smell. FD
  • Thanks, will have it checked.
    Mechanic found out the stalling issue is due to the "idle air control valve". One of the solenoids on it is broke. Will put it in this week and see what happens! Just wanted to update in case someone else has this prob.
  • Hi Villagerwoes, were you able to verify that your fuel pump was the cause of your starting issue (post #1826)? My 95 Quest has exactly the same problem as you described, and my mechanic is stumped. :confuse: He has tried replacing the mass flow sensor and the ignition coil so far, but these have not solved the problem
  • Here is my problem. 1997 Villager 98k miles. Nothing major repaired on it. I know I know, bad owner. Okay, check engine light always on. I have pulled the codes myself and it is the 3rd gear ratio problem. Okay, got it to go away before deployment to Iraq. When I got back it was fine, lasted about 3 months, then boom check engine light. Okay, now I have some other symptoms. Sometimes when I take off from stop it surges then stalls. Starts back fine in N and I take off. The idle acts like it sticks. RPM about 200 above normal with foot off gas, I rev it up a bit and comes back down to normal. I have some ideas what it might be but just wondering if anyone else has this problem. Thanks
  • Ok, another prob. Just recently returned from long road trip. Van ran fine the whole time except for a couple of stalling issues and high idle problems. Okay, returning through the dallas area I was driving about 7O MPH when I noticed engine surging. Like a idiot I stomped on the gas. It picked back up and I thought all was well. I was wrong. The first time I let off the gas it died out. So I pull to the side. Tried to restart and got the really rough idle and really low. No throttle response, and when you gave it gas, it died. Ok, had this issue before about year ago, popped the hood and checked all plug wires. Two things found. The bottom three plug wires seemed to be really loose. The top left one, the hard one to get to, same thing. Pushed them all on except top left one, engine was a little warm. Did the best I could. Got back in and started it up, seemed fine. I resume driving and about 5 minutes does it again. Now I have established something, engine bay warms up and problem occurs. I am thinking plug wires, ok so find autozone, replace all wires. Take off again and it last about 15 minutes and does again. Well, it was close to evening and I knew the weather would cool off. Waited till almost night fall and tried again, did not have a problem again for the remaining 200 miles. So here is my question, do I still have issue or did the gremlins take a break. Anyone else dealing with this. Please give me ideas. Thanks
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 892
    If your Villager is hard to start, have your mechanic check your fuel pressure regulator. My 2001 was very hard to start, especially when warm, requiring me to pump the accelerator to start/keep it running. The fuel pressure regulator fixed that, and I get better mileage also.
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