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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro Warning Lights

creidcreid Posts: 54
I know this is a silly answer but the first thing I would check is the gas cap. The vehicle has a sensor for pressure & will give a check engine light if not tight or leaking. Just my 2 cents.
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Comments

  • coonhoundcoonhound Posts: 174
    If the light does not go off on it's own then you need to lift a battery cable for about 10 minutes to reset the computer. Be careful and don't short + to ground with the wrench as you remove and install a cable. Better to lift negative, but a little more difficult to get to.

    My 97 sits a lot and sometimes runs rough on startup giving the check engine light. I reset it and everything is OK.

    If it continues to come on you are probably going to the dealer to have them run the code scanner. And hope that someone has not been running premium fuel and the injector pressure regulator is out. The list price of the injector unit is $470.00. The thing is only sold as a unit. My 97 was replaced at 27,000 miles under warranty.

    If it is an O2 sensor, and there are three of them at about $70.00 ea. even at auto Zone.

    Those are the unpleasant thoughts that I have on the subject.
  • Jkeefe1,
    Had similar problems, 1993 Safari XLT with 120k had stalling, low power, "Check Engine" light, etc. Had valve seals replaced twice due to smoking at start-up, and EGR continually clogged. Local mechanic, who works on several Safari/Astros did the following:
    - replaced catalytic, it was bad
    - replaced O2 sensors, which had been repeatedly nuked due to clogged injectors/EGR valve
    - did an intake flush, I think it was BTG-system?
    - removed EGR and ran the van on the road (with the EGR still removed) to blow out residual carbon in the intake manifold
    - replaced EGR with a new unit.

    Since then, I use a bottle of Techron fuel cleaner each month and switched to regular 87 octane. Last 20k miles have been the best running ever for the van! I was ready to heave the beast prior to this last ditch fix, but the improvements are dramatic. Also saw a site on the Van forum for a firm that makes an EGR screen to catch the carbon particles before they enter the EGR assembly, mounts on the base between the intake and EGR itself. There's also a PROM update that the dealer has that cycles the EGR open at cruise, probably to allow carbon to blow out? Good luck!
  • creidcreid Posts: 54
    I asked earlier to AWD owners of their gas mileage compared to mine. Well I took my van to the dealer yesterday due to an intermittent check engine light that illuminated when holding the coast in w/ cruise control set. The code was about the right and left banks running rich. The dealer replaced the MAP sensor due to the original was shorted (according to tech writing on service report). My question does a map sensor make that much of a difference with regards to gas mileage?
  • mrnimmomrnimmo Posts: 271
    could certainly make it run rich enough to give you that horrible gas mileage. Time will tell, right?
  • Ok so I bought this 1994 Safari from my aunt it drove fine for a couple of weeks then I filled it up drove it about 60 miles and when I got of of the interstate it was running like Either the head gasket was blown or it had water in the gas (it even deiseled When I turned it off) so I went to a gas station bought some gas treatment and the problem went away almost instantly. so I thought the problem was solved then I drove it home then to and from work for 2 weeks no problem then I had a 3 hour drive to make so I stopped at a different gas station filled up and about 20 minutes down the road it did it again( both time the Service light came on) so I stopped got gas treatment and problem gone Thought it was odd that 2 different gas stations had water in thier gas but with gas prices the way they are its possible but then on the way back from my 3 hour drive it did it again this time without filling up but I let it sit before working on it and the service light is off and its running great so I don't even know where to start because everything is working now
    Any Ideas would be greatly appreciated
    Thanks
  • This problem sounds a lot like dirty, clogged or malfunctioning fuel injectors. The reason the fuel additive works for a while (if I'm right) is because it temporarily cleans the injectors. I've never had this problem with my Astro, but have experienced it multiple times in other vehicles. The "Service Engine" light would come on because you're giving the computer a misfire fault. I don't know how big a deal it is to remove the injectors, but if it's tough you might first check plugs and wires.
  • Long story short... 67k miles, Engine light came on, mechanic diagnosis Catalytic Convertor failing. (No smell or other symptoms...) He suggested misfire would contribute to CC failure, & a tune-up might help. This mechanic also opined that the Vortec engine was all-around buggy & a pain in the nect. I decided to ponder the CC problem & wait; tune-up done by different mechanic. (location convenience, not mechanic choice) 2nd mechanic claimed that "false readings" are common among the computers for this model, and suggested driving a while, then checking again. Engine light came on 2 wks later, but code was for 2 injectors failing. Same mechanic said that this model has a plastic (!?) housing or sleeve that fails (obviously, if it's true...!), and that it's causing the misfire which might in fact contribute to gradual CC failure. :confuse: QUESTIONS: (1) Any chance the computer board is faulty, failing, and/or are they known to be unreliable in this model? (2) Is the fuel injector "plastic" thing true, and is there a better fix, i.e., different type of injectors or preventative measures to keep them from failing again? (3) In the "old days" we'd smell the CC failure and the vehicle would run like crap - if it's failing, why are there no other symptoms? HELP!!!!!!!!! Thanks!
  • I see that it was august when u had this problem did u get it fixed. because i have a 96 chevy astro i have replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter and it still won't run any suggestions would be appriciated. thanks
  • Spray starting fluid into intake hose behind the air cleaner in front of the engine. Now if you get no attempt at starting like it wont try to fire then you have no spark or ignition. Now it could be the module that controls the ignition and this will take out the ignition coil both could be hosed. My 99 Safari is in the dealers shop as we speak and this is what they told me, all for only $450.00.I'm lucky I can afford it, but I hate to pay someone when I can fix it myself, but I couldn't. So maybe this will help you or someone else.
    Good Luck
    BillB4
  • dave8697dave8697 Posts: 1,486
    You can get the code read free at autozone or advance auto parts stores. I have 2 astros. 87 and 98. My 87 (175,000 mi)died a minute after starting it last december. The check engine light came on and the code read lean or rich mixture. The coolant temp sensor was bad. It had previously failed at 48,000 miles in 1991. It is hard to get to with rear a/c lines in the way, but the $7 part screws into intake manifold into the coolant passage. Van started right up and the 3 mpg mileage increase from then on suprised me. I could hear my fuel pump prime and I had spark.
  • My 99 astro van won’t start after sitting a few days. It happened about a month ago too. Both times I didn't have very much gas in the tank and the weather was around freezing and raining. Last month I eventually got it started by jumping and cranking if for about three hours. It smelled flooded.
    It's a 4.3L fuel injection engine. This time after trying to jump it, it just won't start..kinda feels like it wants too. It diesels a little after each attempt.

    When the key is in the on position the service engine soon light is on and the check gauges light is on. I did a scan (with my battery almost dead) and it said the scan was successful but no trouble code found and said the MIL indicator was off?

    Could it be my battery just needs to be charged or replaced?
    Why is the check engine light on but no error code when scanned?
    Should I try a scan with a fully charged battery?

    Thanks for any help.

    Smokey
  • md333md333 Posts: 2
    I have a 97 Astro and have had similar problems with the engine not starting when it is cold and damp. I believe the problem is the ignition coil. I replaced one last year and one cold damp day it again failed to start. Point a hairdrier in the area of the coil(behind the alternator) to dry it out or spray wd40 on the wire connections leading to the coil. The moisture drains the voltage and doesnt allow enough spark to start.
  • qlocoqloco Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Chevy Astro with 120,235 miles. My service engine soon light is on. Funny thing is it comes on and off. I took it to Autozone and they tell me its code P0117 = Engine Coolant Sensor Voltage Too Low. I've changed the coolant sensor by the ERG valve and the temperature sensor by the manifold. I was told it could be a grounding problem. But I have no idea on how to check that. I have no idea now on what to do next to correct this problem.

    Thank Qloco.
  • cobcob Posts: 210
    On my 1997 the check engine and check gages light stay on if the key is in the on position and the engine is not running. They are just resetting themselves for when the van is started. If the lights don't come on before starting than it signals there is a problem with the systems. I believe the ignition coil may be your problem. I would also check the distributor cap for cracks. I have read other posts where people had damp weather starting problems caused by mosture in the distributor.
  • Thanks cob and md333! I will try that today. Is there any test I can do with a volt meter that would tell me if the ignition coil is too damp?
  • bought a new battery...used hairdryer on ignition coil,sprayed ether in air intake and only makes a loud popping sound...taking a beer break.
  • put more gas in and replaced fuel filter...still doesn't start.
  • i took the ignition coil out and did the ohm checks listed in repair manual. The coil passed all tests. So I hooked it back up and took one of my front wheels off to access the spark plugs. I took out one plug and hooked it back up to the wire and then cranked the engine....the spark plug didn't spark! I double checked that the wire from the coil to the distributor is sparking...it is.
    Thats where im at now. Haven't checked fuel pressure yet
  • cobcob Posts: 210
    If you are getting spark from coil to distibutor but not to plugs, The suspect would be the cap and rotor or the plug wires. But, since there is no firing going on the wires are probably fine its got to be under the distibutor cap.
  • tinam3tinam3 Posts: 1
    I recently had several instances where the check engine light came on and went off. when investigating it was a misfire on #5 caused by wear on my plugs and wires. I have it fixed but am now wondering what else might need attention in the future. It only has 50K miles on it and I have kept up on the maintenance.
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