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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro Warning Lights

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Comments

  • hi, i need help. I have a 1997 chev astro. 4.3eng.
    i had a check engine light on for awhile with a code
    po301- no.1 cyl misfire. i'v replaced and tuned up everything and the problem is still there.it runs rough with no power and sucks gas bad.now the engine light flashes all the time and no one can tell me what the flashing stands for.the flashing tells me what?i've checked the books and they don't address
    the light flashing compared to just being on.
    any help is appreciated.
  • i have a 93 astrovan 4.3. the abs light and the service engine soon light go on and off intermittently. i have the code reader and it tells me that the ecm code is

    "#43 electronic spark timing (EST) circuit - low voltage detected / electronic spark control (ESC)- circuit problems".

    and the abs fault is
    "#8 shorted dump valve circuit or faulty ecu".

    both these lights started coming on within a day of each other...i kinda sounds like maybe something is not putting out enough voltage or something.
    any ideas what it could be??...
    thanks
  • I have a 1141 code which relates to the fuel cannister evap. system on my 98 2WD van. I have replace the gas tank cap with a new one from the dealer. I have replace the purge solenoid on the intake manifold also. I still have the fault. Has anyone had this same fault and if so what was the fix.

    P.S. I am fairly unhappy with all the little problems this vans has thrown at me for the last 8 years. The latest big one was the now infamous coolant leak from the poorly designed intake manifold gasket.
  • I have a 90 Safari. I recently replaced both rear brake cylinders & shoes. And after bleeding the brakes, the dasboard brake light went out, as expected. Just a day later, the brake line itself started leaking, both ABS & Brake dash lights came on. After replacing brake line & hose to rear axle, bleeding brakes again (even bled front brakes), The ABS & Brake light still stay on. I have a good pedal,& brakes seem to working fine. I have even disconnected battery cable overnight.
    I have asked a few people, even a mechanic freind. The usual answer, "GMs do that a lot, I wouldn't worry about it".
    I would like to sell it, but I don't think this will look good. Any ideas or suggestions? :confuse:
    Thanks!
  • I bought a used 1997 GMS Safari and there are some small issues I would like to get fixed. The price was too much to resist.

    The check engine light stays on. I am new to this and I can use some help. The van drives fine, starts good and the motor sounds really good.

    I understand that there are code readers out there that can reset the computer; is this correct? What type of reader works the best?

    I also noticed that the airbag light stays on, can anyone tell me what to look for?

    Finally the horn doesn't work.

    Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
  • smo1smo1 Posts: 6
    I have a problem with my Check Engine light NOT going on. At start up it does not go on. I need to correct so I can pass my state's vehichle inspection. COuld it be a fuse?
  • Hello out there...

    My ABS light and the red brake lights came on the other day at the very end of a long stop on a slippery road. The brake pedal went just about all the way down during this sequence but nothing seemed to be wrong. Just as the car stopped, the lights came on.

    I think it is a nuisance light since the brakes, front and rear, work just fine. My question is... How do I reset the ABS module to see if there really is something wrong?

    Any help is appreciated.
  • cobcob Posts: 210
    Reset the ABS light by removing the neg battery cable for 5 minutes to reset the codes. I would also check you brake fli=uid level in the resevoir to make sure that is not the source of the red brake light coming on.
  • I put a jumper on the communications link to get the ABS light to flash a code. I got a 63. Does anyone know what that means???

    Thanks
  • i gotta agree with cob. i very recently had hard starting and rough running til i went in the distributor cap and bent all the tips in to be closer to the rotor as it passed (you'd be amazed at the gap inside the cap from the tips of the cap to the rotor tip)and sure nuf it starts like the vehicle was just rolled off the producion line ... i carefully measured the safe amount to bend inwarded with no touching between rotor and dist.cap and i suspect i may have changed the timing a very little bit due to the spark being able to jump a slight bit sooner but if the vehicle senses stuff like that , well i guess it might compensate( if it has the ability) for the timing advance if any :)
  • i gotta agree with cob. i very recently had hard starting and rough running til i went in the distributor cap and bent all the tips in to be closer to the rotor as it passed (you'd be amazed at the gap inside the cap from the tips of the cap to the rotor tip)and sure nuf it starts like the vehicle was just rolled off the producion line ... i carefully measured the safe amount to bend inwarded with no touching between rotor and dist.cap and i suspect i may have changed the timing a very little bit due to the spark being able to jump a slight bit sooner but if the vehicle senses stuff like that , well i guess it might compensate( if it has the ability) for the timing advance if any :)
  • chinnesechinnese Posts: 3
    Run fine 1998 115 k only problems runs great when warm a bit rough when cold and when turn on ac on it once and a while get a check engine light turns . Check engine code get o2 sensor replaced 3 of them any other ideas. :) :)
  • trevor14trevor14 Posts: 2
    Having problems with a cylinder loading up with fuel and fouling a plug. Did a full tune up, ran a fuel injector cleaner, scaned the motor, did a fuel preasure test, no codes but a flashing engine light( meaning a missfire and your converter is loading with fuel), replaced the fuel injector system in the intake, checked for leaks in the intake and lines, and still no differance in proformance. I then decided to check the wiring from the fuel wiring harness (top of the intake) to the computer harness and low and behold the wires from the comp side had been laying on the van body under the battery and had wore through causing the one fuel injector to stay open.
  • trevor14trevor14 Posts: 2
    check the wires from your computer by the battery so they are not touching the van body
  • dep1006dep1006 Posts: 1
    i need help with a service engine light the code shows small vacume leak or loose gas cap i just had a vacume leak fixed at the dealer 3 weeks ago. the light came on for the first time 2 days ago does anyone know if there us a way to reset the code light without a code reader, auto zone won't do it for me. i mam due for an inspection and it won't pass with the light on any help is appreciated thanx
  • danr4danr4 Posts: 1
    I have an unusual problem that is intermittent - the Brake and ABS dash indicators lamps come on. They also go away, usually after I park and turn off the Safari for a short while. The reservoir is full, the brakes were all replaced recently. The first time it happened, I took it in for repair and the mechanic filled the reservoir (it was low) and a couple of days later it came back on. I returned and agreed to replace the brakes - it has 85000 miles and they have never been replaced. It stops fine, but the dash indicators keep coming on - any ideas from fellow Safari owners as to where I can begin looking for the problem?
  • steveb17steveb17 Posts: 2
    edited October 2010
    Refer to question/answer #2 of 39: This member is correct (Again: as odd as it may sound). I've had two different vehicles that both gave me the check engine light and it turned out to be the gas caps were not venting correctly and caused a vacuum problem within the system. I replaced the gas caps and everything was fine from that point on. this may not be your problem exactly; But, it may be worth your time and money to check into this possibility.
  • glenggleng Posts: 1
    o2 sensor no activity detected .Bank #1 Sensor #3.
    Does anyone know if this is a upstream or downstream sensor.Thanks
  • Its very likely that your ABS Module needs to be refurbished. Mine was doing exactly the same. Vibrations seemed to set it off and both BRAKE/ABS lights would come on until I turned the car off. It is a popular problem with the modules.

    The fix was less than $100 dollar and it was very easy.

    There are two companies that do this and give you a warranty for their work:
    ASI (Automotive Scientific Inc) www.AUTOECU.com (HINT: their Ebay listings are way cheaper! http://myworld.ebay.com/ate1234)

    And the other company is Module Master: http://www.modulemaster.com/en/index.php

    You can ship it to them and still drive your vehicle. Your brakes will work just fine, but the ABS feature won't until you replace the controller. Just make sure you cover the other half of the ABS unit on your car. You'll want to protect it from debris and water.

    Best of luck.
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