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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro Heating / Cooling

17891113

Comments

  • lemmer1lemmer1 Posts: 1
    Hi!

    Can you help me? I have a 2002 Safari with the same vent issue. Would you kindly send me the instructions and the diagram to fix it?

    Thank you so much!
  • dwlj_djdwlj_dj Posts: 2
    edited May 2011
    I have a 2000 GMC Safari and I have searched a very long time to find a vacuum diagram for my vehicle. I found one that was close but had a few extra parts my vehicle did not have. I have four vacuum lines, one coming from the PCV to the tee, one from the vacuum ball to the tee, one of two that comes from the firewall. This one is the thicker of the two vacuum hoses. I have replaced all with new vacuum hoses. Now according to the diagram that I have found that pertained to my extra hose, it went to a part that I do not have in my vehicle. I have just pluged it up for now, but one more thing that the other diagram had was the bigger of the two hoses had a extra tee that also lead to another part that is not on my vehicle. So I know that this is in the right range of having the vacuum hoses in the right places. The diagram has part numbers by each part, but the person that posted the diagram did not post the parts list. If you have what I need, please e-mail me the diagram. I hope that who ever is reading this has learned on most of the diagram. If anyone knows the web sites to find our vacuum diagrams, it would really help those in need. If I find the diagram in my reseach, I will post them myself. I have not stop researching, because this is what I do, research.
    Donald e-mail me... dwlj_dj@yahoo.com
  • bdarbdar Posts: 19
    Hi lemmer1,

    Sorry for the delay in responding. I have been out of town and completely forgot to respond. Could you post your email address so I can email you the vacuum diagram? I will post the explanation on how to fix the problem below, but I am not sure how to send attachments through the forum.

    I have the vacuum Diagram for a 97' Chevy Astro and from what I understand it should be the same for all the upper model astros/GMC Safaris. If you are having the air come out from the defrost and not from the vents, you should check 3 critical areas. So I will try to explain it to you as best as I can. So if you are standing in front of the Astro and open the hood, you would look to your left hand side first. There is a big black box like thing all the way to the left (and that is the ac blower fan). Right beside that, there is a medium size silver canister that should have tubes coming out from it. That is the AC condenser and that is where you would recharge Freon to the car. Right next to the canister (on the right side, tucked in a little) you should find some sort of a t-connector with three vacuum hoses connected to it, Once should be going into the firewall (the wall of the car going into the vehicle, one should be going down towards the bottom of the car, and the other should be going to the right. Most likely, the one going to the right is the one that is broken. That one passes to the right by the alternator and other things on its way to the engine manifold where it connects in. That area is extremely hot (when the car is on) and that is why those vacuum lines tend to break down quickly (Thank Chevy for their stupid designs, LOL). It may take some bending and moving with your hand to get into those tight spaces to reach the other end of the vacuum hose. They sell replacement vacuum hose/tubing at Napa Auto Parts by the foot, and they have vacuum connector heads in multi-packs at Auto Zone. Basically, you will have to build your own new vacuum tube with a head on each end, one to connect into the t-connector and one to connect on the engine manifold. I would make the tube a bit longer so you can position it away from the hotter parts of the car and you can use plastic strapping ties to secure it so that it doesn't get caught in any gears belts, etc.

    That should solve the problem. If it doesn't, I would check the second line from the t-connector going down to the bottom of the car. That line connects into the vacuum ball underneath the car. The vaccum ball is located underneath the car by the right front tire (in the same area as directly underneath the condenser. So you would have to get on the ground and slide underneath the car (Head first) and look with a flashlight underneath the front and you will find the vacuum ball. It is a round plastic ball thing and it should have a vacuum line connected to it. Check the line and also check the ball for any cracks, etc. If the line is bad, change the line and then if the ball is bad, you can get a new one from the dealer and I also think AutoZone has them (Check their website). The ball clips on with two clips/screws to the metal of the car and you would have to pull away the plastic flap of the wheel wall to see those two screws. On the Diagram, the areas that I mentioned are numbers 11. 12, 16, 34. Try that out and you have any questions, just email message me back.
  • bdarbdar Posts: 19
    Haven't been on the forums in a while. I can't send the diagram through the forum (Or at least I don't know how). If you post your email address, I will send you all the info.
  • bdarbdar Posts: 19
    Hi jstnfields240 and all that replied to your post,

    Well, I would assume that your issue of the air coming out of the defrost in the back is related to the vacuum lines in the front, but I am not sure as I do not have any experience working with the Astro's back AC as my Astro does not have rear AC (I wish it did, LOL). BUT, since you've stated that you can hear vacuum in the front, then that leads me to believe that you are having a vaccuum leak in the front because you should never hear the vacuum sound unless your lines are broken or cracked. I will post my explanation on how to fix it from the front, and maybe that will help (And I think it should because you are hearing the vacuum in the front and shouldn't be). Please post your email address and I will send you the vacuum diagram.

    I have the vacuum Diagram for a 97' Chevy Astro and from what I understand it should be the same for all the upper model astros/GMC Safaris. If you are having the air come out from the defrost and not from the vents, you should check 3 critical areas. So I will try to explain it to you as best as I can. So if you are standing in front of the Astro and open the hood, you would look to your left hand side first. There is a big black box like thing all the way to the left (and that is the ac blower fan). Right beside that, there is a medium size silver canister that should have tubes coming out from it. That is the AC condenser and that is where you would recharge Freon to the car. Right next to the canister (on the right side, tucked in a little) you should find some sort of a t-connector with three vacuum hoses connected to it, Once should be going into the firewall (the wall of the car going into the vehicle, one should be going down towards the bottom of the car, and the other should be going to the right. Most likely, the one going to the right is the one that is broken. That one passes to the right by the alternator and other things on its way to the engine manifold where it connects in. That area is extremely hot (when the car is on) and that is why those vacuum lines tend to break down quickly (Thank Chevy for their stupid designs, LOL). It may take some bending and moving with your hand to get into those tight spaces to reach the other end of the vacuum hose. They sell replacement vacuum hose/tubing at Napa Auto Parts by the foot, and they have vacuum connector heads in multi-packs at Auto Zone. Basically, you will have to build your own new vacuum tube with a head on each end, one to connect into the t-connector and one to connect on the engine manifold. I would make the tube a bit longer so you can position it away from the hotter parts of the car and you can use plastic strapping ties to secure it so that it doesn't get caught in any gears belts, etc.

    That should solve the problem. If it doesn't, I would check the second line from the t-connector going down to the bottom of the car. That line connects into the vacuum ball underneath the car. The vaccum ball is located underneath the car by the right front tire (in the same area as directly underneath the condenser. So you would have to get on the ground and slide underneath the car (Head first) and look with a flashlight underneath the front and you will find the vacuum ball. It is a round plastic ball thing and it should have a vacuum line connected to it. Check the line and also check the ball for any cracks, etc. If the line is bad, change the line and then if the ball is bad, you can get a new one from the dealer and I also think AutoZone has them (Check their website). The ball clips on with two clips/screws to the metal of the car and you would have to pull away the plastic flap of the wheel wall to see those two screws. On the Diagram, the areas that I mentioned are numbers 11. 12, 16, 34.
  • bdarbdar Posts: 19
    Dear All Edmunds Visitors for Chevy Astro Vacuum Diagram,

    I decided that I would post my email address on here for future posters to see. Many people have come on here requesting help with the Chevy Astro Vacuum Problem, and I am always ready to help everyone. However, I am not on the forum too much, but the way that I respond is that Edmunds usually sends me an email notification when someone posts in the forum. I just logged in and noticed that there have been a few posts where I didn't get a notification about the posts. So, I will post my email address below and if you need help, instructions, and/or the vacuum diagram, just send me an email and I will be glad to help. I know how horrible and irritating this problem is (especially in the height of the summer and winter seasons) and there is no reason to suffer with it as it can easily be fixed!

    Take Care,

    BDar
    adarwish69@bellsouth.net
  • rab23465rab23465 Posts: 9
    My issue is: I have heat and also cold air coming out of the proper vents but both AC and heat only work on the first two blower settings. When I turn the blower switch to High or the 3rd setting there is nothing. Would this diagram help me re this problem? Thanks and I really appreciate you help. Can you send me the diagram please? I tried to send a message to you outside the form but the email address did not seem to be correct. I used: adarwish69bellsouth.net My email address is : bbeckwith@shaw.ca
    Thanks Bob
  • duecekdduecekd Posts: 19
    The problem with the blower not working on some speeds is the resistor array for the blower needs to be replaced. I recently had the same problem on my '95 GMC Safari. You need to remove it and take it to the parts store because they had a heck of a time finding the right one for me. The replacement parts indicated in their database looked nothing like the original, and even the bolt pattern wasn't even close. But after the diligence of the parts guy, he found it and had to order it, and I got it in 2 days. It is located on my van on the left side behind the A/C evaporator, to the right of the blower housing. It has a 4 pin connector on it, and the guts of the thing fit into a hole right below the firewall. When you pull it out it has a bunch of metal coils that eat the voltage to get the different speeds. It may look fine to the naked eye, but I guarantee that's your problem. It cost me about $18.

    bdar, if you read this, I have watched you ask for vacuum diagrams, but the only one I had was for my old '92 GMC, which I think I got from you. I wasn't just leaving you hangin buddy!!
  • dwlj_djdwlj_dj Posts: 2
    No, the diagrams will not help you with the high end being gone. Make sure you take the negative off the battery.
    This is what you need to check.
    When you have the hood open and you are looking at the engine, to the left is the plastic windshield and overflow reservoir. You will need to remove it, take the overflow hose off the radiator that goes to the reservoir, take the two screws out and when you are lifting the reservoir out, be careful because the washer fluid pump is on the front of the reservoir. You can take the pump out of the reservoir and then remove the reservoir. Behind where the reservoir was, you will see a cable plugged into a socket which this will be the blower motor resister. There may be a strip of plastic that you will need to pull and then you will need to take the cable out of the socket. Look inside the socket and on the right side of the socket may be burnt. If not, this is a good sign that the blower motor resister is the problem. There will be two screws holding the blower motor resister and there will be a cable running from the blower motor resister going to the blower motor to the left. You will have to unplug it from the blower motor. You can go to any parts store and pick it up for about $40-60. The blower motor resister will look different than the one you take out but it will be the replacement for it. You may have to modify the opening to make it fit. I had to file the top and bottom of the hole to make the blower motor resister to fit. Put it back in reverse of what you just did to take it out. This does not take very long to do, I believe it may take you about one hour to do if you have the basic tools. I hope that this will solve your high end not working and you will be able to enjoy the ac/heat once again. If you still have problems, write me back and I will do my best to help. If I do not have the answer, I will research it and try to find one. Knowledge is all about sharing it and pay it forward.
    Donald
  • bdarbdar Posts: 19
    Hi,

    This topic has gotten a bit extensive and so I am not sure who originally had the problem and who was replying to help with it. So, to the forum member who asked the question/has the problem, this problem is with the fan's blower motor and it is specificaly the resistor setup on the motor. Post #s315 and 314 do a very good job of detailing what you need to do to fix this problem. In the past, I have had this problem with my 97 Chevy Astro, but I had it in the repair shop for other issues (nothing related to the AC) and so the shop had fixed it for me (it was actually at the Chevy Dealership) and they replaced both the resistor array and the blower motor. I would have done the repair myself, but I was traveling at the time and so I had to get it fixed ASAP because I couldn't drive around with not being able to have the AC on Hi.

    However, I had this problem another time, and when it happened again, it was the actual key for the fan that had gone bad. The key is the one that you use to turn it from low to hi. I guess over the years the panel had gotten worn out from changing the setting so much, and the internal metal pieces of the key went bad, so when you set it to hi, there was no contact inside the key and so the blower wouldn't go to hi. I ended up changing the selector panel (Basically all three keys) and the HI setting was working again. I don't know how often that has happened to others, but usually went ot won't go to hi, it is either the resistors or the selector key itself. Wish I could offer more info but that's all the experience I've had with that problem. Good Luck!

    BDar
  • rab23465rab23465 Posts: 9
    Thanks to all who replied. I'll get to it before it gets too hot up here in Canada. That might not be for a while but I need to get it done before winter 2011.
  • I am sure this has been talked about before but my 99 Safari has a heater /AC that drops off when one steps on the accelerator. I assume that it is a vacuum issue. Anything else I need to look at and where can i find a vacuum schematic.
  • geraldlgeraldl Posts: 3
    My air stops blowing every now and then when my heater is on and when I'm going up hill (whenever there's a strain on engine), but my AC seems to be good.
    Also, the air from my heater is not as hot as it used to be.
    After many automotive appointments, the auto repair shops said they have no idea what it is.
    A friend of mine said the engine could be old/worn and not creating the pressure needed (not sure if this is true).
    I flushed-out my heater core a few different times and it seems to have helped my air get hotter when my heater is on.
  • astro11astro11 Posts: 1
    The problem is the vacuum canister is to small and when throttle is close to full, as going up a long hill the engine can't supply enough vacuum to A/C vents. I fixed my 2005 astro by adding another canister.
  • jeffkoryjeffkory Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 94 astro { no rear a/c } But just did my vaccum hoses today- First of all if the compressor is cycling on and off-- Your probably low on freon. Now on my van i pretty much have the same hose routing you mentioned- On the right { passenger side} I have a/c accumulator { big silver canister} the radiator overflow canister and the winshield washer canister-and my air intake for the engine{ Plastic tubing to the air cleaner} . I removed the radiator overflow canister and the plastic air cleaner intake tubes and under all that is the vaccum resivoir ball {black plastic ball} I have a T THERE THAT 1-GOES TO THE BALL 2- GOES TO THE HEATER BOX {directly above} And the other 3- WENT TO the rear of the intake { vaccum supply} After connecting the new hose to the ball everything works again--even my cruise control..
  • micor43micor43 Posts: 1
    AC & Heat is only coming out of Defroster Vents - Switch that controls Air Direction replaced and worked properly for 2 days. A section of the Vacuum hose was "rotten" and crumbled in my fingers - only patched it and all worked fine, but did not last. I'm convinced that the prob will be fixed if I can replace the Vacuum hose completely, but cannot determine how/where it is routed. Can someone please help - tried to get a diagram online but no luck. Thanks, Mike (micor43@verizon.net)
  • joey109joey109 Posts: 1
    edited June 2011
    hi can you please send me a copy of the ac diagram for the chevy astro
    would really appreciate it thanks so much it seems like we are having same problem ac works fine but air coming out of the defrost vent
  • datkins1datkins1 Posts: 4
    Lemmer,

    Can you email me a copy of the vacuum system that you have for the GMC 2000 Safari? jjrudy65@aol.com
  • datkins1datkins1 Posts: 4
    Can you send me a copy of the diagram for the vacuum system please? Thank you.... jjrudy65@aol.com
  • datkins1datkins1 Posts: 4
    Can you change out the connector/fiting on the low side for the A/C so you do not have to repalce the complete hardline system for the A/C? This is on a 2000 Safari AWD model. jjrudy65@aol.com
  • tfinkastfinkas Posts: 1
    BDAR,

    If you could please send me that diagram for the 97 Safari/Astro vacuum tube routing I would greatly appreciate it.

    Thanks,
    Tim
  • r0eninr0enin Posts: 1
    I was wondering if you got a copy of that diagram? if so could you send it to me? have a leak in my 99 and come to find out that is the line that goes to the rear a/c, it came loose from the connection that was used to bolt it away from the exaust and was resting on the cadalitic converter and melted the aluminium. Thanks
  • rkstammrkstamm Posts: 1
    What canister did you use, and how did you add it in?
  • miekym2miekym2 Posts: 1
    edited July 2011
    hey there.. Is there any way you can send me a copy of the vaccum diagram also ? I'm having issues with my girlfriends astro ac and it would help me a great deal.. Thanks Mike

    Miekym2@yahoo.com
  • jim481jim481 Posts: 4
    No matter which position I set my air control knob air only comes out the defrost vent of wind shield. Also when I move air control knob to MAX A/C blower motor does not increase speed.
    Hope someone can give me some help on this issue and maybe someone has a vacuum diagram they could email me.
  • I can tell you exactly what the problem is, as I have fixed this on, 3 seperate work vans. It's a broken plastic vacuum line. If you lift the hood, and look just above the alternator, you should find it. I just usually get a 12" piece of 1/8" rubber vacuum hose, from Napa, break out the brittle section of plastic, and use the rubber line, to rejoin.
  • jim481jim481 Posts: 4
    Thanks for your reply.
    I do see a broken vacuum line as you describe but where is it connected too??
    Their is a couple lines coming through the fire wall and the broken one is attached to like a 90 degree ell but where is the other end???
  • Sorry about long reply. Have been away from puter, for awhile. The other end goes off to your right, under the air intake, and across the top of the engine, on the driver's side. You almost have to reach inside there and feel around for it. I found loosening the 2 air intake clamps, unplugging the connectors, and removing the intake, made it easier to repair the line.
  • Thanks for your reply.
    Can you give me a little more info on what I am feeling around for?
    A pic would be great.
  • Cant do a pic, as I would have to remove the upper air filter cover, and air intake, which requires what I mentioned before, just to take a pic. Snap up the 2 clasps for the air filter, loosen the 2 hose clamps, unplug the 2 electrical connectors, and remove this assembly. The broken end of this plastic vacuum line, runs over top of the rad hose, and underneath, what you have just taken off. Remember, this line goes all the way to the rear of the motor, but even if it is broken, it should all still be there, to see. Don't feel around, trying to find the other end, remove what I said, and you'll find it.
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