Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Buick Regal Electrical Problems



  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Have you had your battery checked?
  • creevecreeve Posts: 1
    I have just had the turn signal switch replaced on my 92' Buick Regal. The radio controls on the steering wheel are not working now. Do I need to reset something on the radio? The new switch I bought is for steering wheel radio controls.

  • Did you find a solution to this problem? I have the same problem.

    My shop had my car for a total of three weeks to no avail. I took it to an electronics specialist with ten years experience and saw doe eyes when I told him about the problems with my '97Buick. The only things that they said were in common were the grounds, (checked ok), the alternator, (replaced twice) and the ignition, which I haven't done yet. Might as well buy a new car and start over.

  • I have a 1998 Buick Regal and the headlights are very dim. When I checked on internet I found a couple of recalls but the only thing they did was send a supplement to the manual telling you how to readjust the head lamp. My husband said when he looked at the headlamp the inside plastic was cloudy. Has anyone had this problem? There was also listed a recall regarding rack and pinion steering. How long are these recalls valid? And does the recall cover a used car?
  • Make: BUICK Model: REGAL Model Year(s):1998
    NHTSA Campaign ID Number : 98V102000

    Ask your dealer to look this up and what can be done.
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Should still be covered under recall. I had my front lights (99 Regal) replaced under recall about 3 years ago. I am the second owner of said vehicle. There is a product out there that can remove headlight cloudiness if that is the problem.
  • hello,
    i have a 97 Buick Regal LS which was given to me, so i dont know its history. But ive had it for about a month now and just within the past week my battery, anti-lock, oil, brake, and low track indicator lights have been going on whenever they feel like it! Mainly the battery light. Ive had my battery and alternator tested. no problem there. i checked for loose wires, the battery terminals and the brakes themselves. Im confused and was wondering if this was something serious or if its just a quick fix i could possibly do myself before going to a shop... any ideas? :confuse:
    Thank you,
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    any ideas?

    Could be the sensors going bad for those particular items.... or a loose connection. The coolant level sensor went bad in my 99 Regal LS. The coolant level light has been on for about 6 months now... hopefully it will burn itself out shortly.

  • My 1998 buick regal is having an electrical problem, the head lights turn off, the fan stops working, also the interoir lights dim, cruise control shuts off, main dash board light flickers.

    I have checked the battery and the grounds and haven't ffound any problems.
  • know anyone who does exorcisms on cars? :P
  • A Switch Doctor? :shades:
  • its a switch? I was driving today and ALL the indicator lights went on, and odometer/ clock started flickering. then my car seized up and died while i was driving... took 20 minutes before i could start it again and drive home with the hazards on at least. could this be the ignition or just electrical problems just in the dash? :confuse:
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Seadog - Did you find the solution to your dash lights? I have a 2000 Century that the dash lights went out. The fuses and dimmer check out OK. The tail lights and head lights work fine. Any help is appreciated. :confuse:
  • tonyf2tonyf2 Posts: 24
    I have a '01 and a '98 Regal, I had this same problem with my '98. Took it to the dealer, they replaced the ignition switch, it's been fine now for the last 6 mo. Cost $626.
  • I have a 2001 Buick Regal. I have started having trouble getting the key out of the ignition when I turn the car off. the key will only go far enough to turn off the battery and will stop there not letting me be able to take the key out. any suggestions as to what is causing this?
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Your battery is going bad.
  • The only practical solution is to unsolder the bulbs and replace them with the new ones. This applies to all recent LeSabre, Regal, Century and Park Avenue. By recent I mean 1999 and later, and maybe some earlier models as well, but I haven't seen those. The problem is not limited to the dash lights; nearly everything in these cars is lit with miniature incandescent bulbs: buttons on the steering wheel, on the doors, radio, and the climate control module.

    GM did not plan for those bulbs to outlast the cars. My guess is that if you are experiencing this problem, your car has a lot of miles on the clock (== many hours of work for the bulbs). When my wife bought her LeSabre at 156k miles (and those miles were not honest, I'm estimating it had done close to 200k), about one-third of all bulbs were dead. One month later, more than half of them were dead. They were at the end of their mortality curve.

    Another possibility is that they can be blown by a faulty charging circuit. The life span of an incandescent bulb decreases as the 7-th power of over-voltage! They must be substantially under-rated for the voltage range in the car (where it's normal to see voltages reaching 15V). The bulbs used in those cars are rated for 12V.

    That sucks. Not only because it's a pain to replace them, but also because they are hard to find. My guess is that they are custom made for the factories supplying the assembled boards to GM. I could not find them in the general suppliers' catalogs, and it was useless to ask the dealers: they told me those bulbs don't have a part number and can only be replaced with the component they're in. Which, if you count them all, far exceeds $1000.

    If you are lucky, you might find all that stuff at a junkyard, but there is hardly any sense in that, because the bulbs are likely to be old. Replacing the instrument panel will give you trouble, too. It keeps a copy of the odometer value, and it will scream if the value is incorrect; some simply refuse to work, requiring re-programming.

    My solution was much better, overall, but I screwed up in the middle and it ended up costing me more than I planned (but still less than replacing components, or putting up with the dead lights).

    I think I bough these bulbs from Radio Shack:

    I can't recall for sure -- 5 years after the fact, but they sort of look like this. I vaguely remember having to remove the black tubing and possibly also the multi-stranded leads and replacing them with solid wire. At any rate, if you go to Radio Shack and ask for the smallest 12V bulb, that will be it. I couldn't find anything that would be even nearly as small. This bulb is still larger than the original GM bulb, but it fits in most places without surgery. In some parts, you might need to widen the hole, but that should be it.

    Some of the original bulbs are colored. They have pull-over silicone filters on them. These can be pulled off and replaced on the new bulbs.

    Disassembling all those parts and replacing all bulbs, some possibly requiring "custom fit" is a bit tedious, but that's fine, considering the cost of any alternative. I did not count, but I think I spent between 5 and 10 hours over several months, whenever I had time and courage to rip out one component or another.

    CAUTION: those Radio Shack bulbs are crap! They have a manufacturing defect that makes some of them fail almost instantly, and when they fail, they can cause damage to the circuit they're in. Because when they blow (for whatever reason), they create a short circuit, and it's a very good short circuit. One of those rejects blew my instrument cluster a few hours after I put it in. Instead of dying quietly, it shorted the printed circuit in the cluster, and its leads got so hot that they fried the adjacent area of board to charcoal, sending stray current into the processor chip, whose pins were right next to it. That cost me $120, because I had to send the cluster for repair. If anyone is interested, I might be able to locate the company in Illinois that did the repair -- their prices were not that bad compared with the cost of the new components.

    Anyway, I did not give up, but I had to remove all new bulbs again and subject them to a simple endurance test, which you can start with, if you want to follow this path. Connect all these bulbs to a 15V source for several days. If you don't have a suitable source at home, connect them to the car and ride with them for a week or two. My prediction is that 10-20% of those bulbs will blow during the test. The rest can be safely used in the car.

    I did this 5 years ago; the car (and myself) have since moved to Scotland. The car is still running and the bulbs are shining, and I had no more failures. It would be a bummer if I had: there is no Radio Shack in Scotland.

    One more thing: I had to visit 6-7 different Radio Shacks to gather enough bulbs to do the complete repair. They don't stock them in large quantities.


  • I have a 94 regal. 2 injectors are not getting electricity any thoughts?
  • I have the exact same car and it doesnt sound electrical at all - sounds like a wheel bearing, the sensors for the anti-locks and traction control is in the wheel bearing for our car's. chances are, your wheel bearing is barely holding on and loses the sensor when you hit a bump. changed mine and havent had a problem since (over a year). The reason why it works again when you restart is that it resets the system. If you keep driving with the problem, eventually you will end up hearing some almost grinding like noises when you turn hard, and if I remember right, that means the bearing on the opposite side (the one that gets stressed the most).
Sign In or Register to comment.