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Pontiac Bonneville Electrical Problems

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  • Hi, I have a 95 Bonneville and have been having some electrical problems with it. For a long time I did not have any dash board lights but the check engine lights and stuff like that work. I also didnt have any lights on my radio or heating panel. Lately the dash board lights have been working. They came on about 3 weeks ago and have been working with out fail everytime. I went to get into my car tonight and my headlights dont work. I do have dash board lights still. I had a issue with the head lights a few months back but a couple of hours later they worked. Any ideas on to why its doing this? Could it be a fuse or do you think its an electrical issue within the wiring? Can anyone help me out with this? Its really starting to annoy me! Thanks. Any feed back is greatly appreciated!!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,709
    The first place to check is the battery connections, especially the postive battery cable which is double layer on many cars after a certain year. Cut the plastic to check for corrosion between the two positive cables. They are separated by a lead spacer/washer that may flatten and not make good contact after tightening over the years. Check to be sure the copper cable is not eroded away by acid as well near the ends of the cables.

    Check the other ends of the connectors and the ground for the negatives. I suggest retightening them.

    There are ground busses under the door sill plastic and carpet near the A-pillar. Driver's side and passenger side.

    image

    These are wrapped up in tape but still may corrode due to moisture from shoes dragging in snow and rain or open windows for some people.

    Instrument panel connections behind the instruments also may slightly corrode and not make good contact. For certain problems reseating them helps.

    There's no one cure without looking at the factory service manual to follow the wiring to see what shares what connector among your various problems. So I suggest troubleshooting the above suggestions.

    Be sure to turn off your AC with the key ON so it parks its parts before disconnecting anything.

    The only other problem area is a worn ignition switch and the contacts inside don't make good contact on certain connections out of more than one it makes when in ON or RUN. This is the switch, not the lock cylinder at the top. The lock moves a rod that operates the switch which is down on top of the steering column to make it hard to mess with in a theft attempt. Some have reported fixing problems by replacing that but typically it's a shutoff while running which restarts easily. That doesn't sound like what you're getting.

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  • emh1emh1 Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. Did you ever get it figured out?
  • san77san77 Posts: 1
    The new problem is the front windows, they will not work, they are stuck on up position. The heater/air motor is also going out, so there is not air, no way to get windows down. The back windows back in the winter one at a time, fell, and could not go back up, so they are bolted UP. The Sun roof is broken. I just got a call from our auto mechanic and they said to pick the car up they could not figure the problem out. I know the radio as well used to shut off when the door opens, well it stays on till it desides to shut off. I am going to have to take this to an electical specialist,,,, that is going to be very expensive..I think the car has been a lemon from the start, all the extra's on this car is not working...Windows, Heated seats, sun roof, heater/ air fan motor,
    But with the hot days coming, the car is black with leather seats, no air to circulate gets really hot,,,,,
    Can any one help,,, we checked the fuses,,,,,
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,709
    The blower motor most likely is a poor ground from the motor that barely makes contact. If you can take the motor apart it's at the brushes end. Some people extend it with a copper braid wire. If you kick you foot up against the bottom of the heater case in the middle, does it start working? Or when you hit a bump?

    The windows are controlled by various modules that talk to each other over the network. Do your door locks work? There's a main module in the driver's door that communicates with the other door modules. Some people find a poor connection in a braid of several wires running under the carpet under the middle of the driver's seat area. There's a connection which may corrode.

    There also are several different fuses involved including under the rear seat and under the hood. The radio going off is part of the retained power and someone elsewhere just went through a diagnosis with it. I do not know if it's a part of your problem. I have not diagnosed one of these, but have read several people having done so.

    Your rear window is the regulator which has a slide that moves up and down via a metal cable to move the glass. The metal cable terminates in a plastic part. The supplier gave them several which are defective and break that went into 2000-2002s the way it sounds. People take out their regulator and send them to places on Ebay or other sources which repair and return or do an exchange. I do not recommend Ebay, but sometimes they have what is needed.

    If you set up your carspace email on your carspace page in the upper corner of this page which say's "my carspace" then send me an email at my carspace account which is my username in the title for this post with an at sign and carspace dot com. I'll try to help you find info.

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  • 02gtpbonn02gtpbonn Posts: 1
    Hi everyone.
    I am a longtime lurker to this great forum and I need your help.
    I just put a 2001 3.8 SC from A Grand Prix GTP in my 02 Bonneville.
    The motor is in and all that is left is the electrical and the front shaft connections.
    I have a few questions and need some help if possible!

    1. We are thinking we need to use the computer for the GTP motor.
    2. The wiring harness( where it plugs into the fuse box, and the connection in the firewall-under the master cylinder is different.) The 02 takes a rectangular plug, and the one on the new motor is round.

    Anyone have any ideas on how to proceed?

    Thanks
    Joe
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,709
    I found your email, finally. Check your mailbox. Pay special attention to the link about the connection under the front seat that can stay wet and is a junction between the modules in the doors. People have found that doesn't make contact causing things to not work because they can't talk to themodule in the driver's door.

    Good luck.

    This message has been approved.

  • tjp4tjp4 Posts: 1
    I'm experiencing the same issue with locks going on and off while driving. Have you heard any reason why?
  • tjacks1tjacks1 Posts: 2
    i cant get car to turn over when i try to jump starer with screwdriver it turns over but wont do it with th key is there a way to disable the security system or reset it the keys have a chip on it and i was told it might not be reconizeing them any one out there who can help with this problem
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,709
    This is an early solution.
    http://vats.likeabigdog.com/t

    If you put your key in and turn it to on and the security light flashes for 3 minutes and then resets to read a new key insertion, you either have broken wires in the column where the tilt flexes, the contacts that rub the chip are dirty (alcohol on key when inserted may help), or the contacts on the key are dirty (rub with pencil eraser).

    When the system doesn't read the chip right, the lights on dash all come on, but when turned to start nothing happens. You'll hear fuel pump when key is turned to on. But injectors and starter are disabled for 3 minutes after you turn the key 3 times to start with a wrong resistance reading.

    You can read your resistor with a meter, and match with the 15 choices in the link I posted. Buy resistors at radio shack for a series you solder together. Or see an aftermarket alarm place; they routined bypass these with resistor sets for alarms they install.

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  • rednufrednuf Posts: 1
    Had same problem with my 02. Was told by dealer whole unit would need to be replaced. Then one day another light was out on my dash, so I slapped the top of the dash and that light came back on. So I decided to try it on my stereo. I flicked the display with my finger twice and the light came back on. You might try that. It's a shame that vehicles have become so complicated and so poorly made.
  • megaroosmegaroos Posts: 1
    My mom purchased her 94 from my brother last year. The car had issues with water leaking into the driver's side very close to the pedals. He assumed it was from the sunroof and taped it so it wouldn't leak and well you cannot use the sunroof anymore. That helped with the leaking, but it sat unused in a garage for a few years. The car however has been having issues with the dash. The odometer and the window that shows the little car icon (IDK what it's called) come on sporadically. The window flickers on and off but more so off lately. She cannot get the car inspected b/c of this issue. Before that, when the car would show up in the window, it would chime that the 3rd brake light was out(which is wasn't).

    I am wondering where to even begin to look for the problem, is it a fuse or wire or both?? I'm thinking that the water had something to do with it.

    :confuse:
  • I just changed out the a/c blower motor on my 2005 pontiac booneville. The motor will not come on. I found a field mouse lodged inside the old motor. Is there a fuse, relay or resistor that i need to check? The a/c compressor starts and stops with the switches on the dash. I have a newborn and gotta fix this fast.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,709
    Fuse #2 30 amp. rear block under rear seat. That may mean the original motor was okay and just swedged by a mouse carcass?

    Check your connector under the dash for a burned contact or a contact that has unclipped and is recessed too far to make contact.

    I am assuming your car is wired like an 03 leSabre. I checked the CJ2 diagram for auto temp control.

    fuse #37 goes to the control, but you said the control is working other parts of the system.

    On the blower motor connectors B and C are power and ground. A is a feedback to the control unit. You might use a fused jumper to see if you can apply power to the old motor and make it turn and then the new one.

    Good lluck.

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  • shawn101gshawn101g Posts: 2
    HI yall i have a 92bonneville and my service engine light has been on when i had bought the car. a week later the car would not do anything when i turn the key. the lights and radio come on but thats it. so i had bought a new battery& a new starter, took it to the shop and they said no power was going to the column so they said i needed a new key or a new column so i bought a new key nothing. then a new column still nothing. i had noticed that my security light dose not come on at all when i turn the key i dont know what to do or what is wrong can any one help
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,709
    My guess from a distance is that yo've been sold a new key and new column you didn't need.

    You may have a connection problem in the various battery cables and grounds. Especially grounds.

    Do you hear a click when you turn the key to ON as the starter tries to work?

    There also are ground busses under the door sill plastic liner and carpet on the driver's side and passenger side. Pull out the sill at the front and check for corrosion on those grounds. I do not know if one affects the starting circuit, but cars in wet climates or having leaks have developed corrosion there.

    The chip in the ignition key is read by contacts in the lock cylinder. Two tiny thin wires go down the column, inside a plastic cover that looks like it's a solid wire itself, to the connector at the bottom of the column where the two inner wires split out to different connections. From there the leads go to the computer on those early years of PassKey and the resistance is read by the powertrain computer whether to allow injector pulses and to allow the relay for the starter circuit (high up on the firewall above the passenger's side where it's very hard to reach.

    The two wire can be cut where they go up to the steering column and connector by a resistor series of the same resistance as the chips in the keys.

    Then the computer gets the right reading for the car's key all the time. No theft resistance.

    http://vats.likeabigdog.com/

    http://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system

    This message has been approved.

  • shawn101gshawn101g Posts: 2
    yeah i kinda figured that i did get sold things that i did not need. but when i turn the key the starter will not even attempt to move. it was jump started by the guy at the shop. but it only ran for maybe 3 seconds and it shut right off he said that something was enabling the fuel. and he replied that he did not no why the security light dose not come on at all when the key is turned to the on position to allow the lights and radio to come on.
  • fcbclanfcbclan Posts: 1
    starter ok relay ok no power to small purple on relay
  • hbj1955hbj1955 Posts: 1
    I has my '95 towed to Affton Auto Electric. They found a bad ground boat. These guys know what they are doing.
  • jmosejmose Posts: 4
    I'm working on a 94 bonne I need a way to check a 5 digit trouble code the code
    that came up is not in the Haynes repair manual P0629 any ideas where to get help , pass key frequency invalid also comes up.
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