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Chrysler Sebring Warning Lights and Problem Codes

245678

Comments

  • james31james31 Posts: 1
    MY CAR FAILED INSPECTION FOR THREE REASONS IF YOU CAN HELP I WOULD BE VERY THANKFUL HERE ARE THE CODES IT READ

    P0136 O2 SENSOR B1 S2 MALF
    P0141 O2 SENSOR B1 S2 HTR MALF ( THINK THESE TWO ARE THE SAME JUST TWO DIFFERENT CODES NOT SURE THOUGH?

    P1610 MFR CTRLLED COMPUTER OUTPUT CKT ( THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WILL NOT COME ON AT ALL WHAT IS THE MOST COMIN PROBLEM TO CAUSE THIS ?
  • migashmigash Posts: 3
    i was leaving work and started to accelterate. then all of a sudden i herd a hallow thud sound (sounded like a pair of steel toed boots kicking something) fallowed by the sound of something like a whole lot of gravel in my wheel well (no i wasnt driveing on gravel).

    then my battery light turned on

    i drove home like normal with no "problems" save the light.

    my car still always starts, however after about 300-400 yards the light comes back on.

    other things wrong with the car... the rpm gage, and the mileage keep turring on and off randomly.

    someitmes they stay on for a week
    sometimes they turn on ater i "get going"
    sometimes they just dont turn on at all.

    other then that What could be up with my car?

    UPDATE: my car died

    while i was driving one by one things turnd off on my car.. till i couldnt even get the emergancy lights to work. its dead in the water now
  • I am currently experiencing the same problem. The air bag light had come on and stayed on for two days in October of last year, but then went off. Just last week, it came on again and is now on continuously.

    I have an extended warranty and I am taking to the dealer later this week. I will post an update after my visit to the dealer.
  • Please let us know if you have any info on this.... I just arted getting the same thing...
    Thanks
  • hi, i experienced the same problem with my air bag light! It stayed on for about 2 mos. I took it to a trusted independant garage and the guy checked the air bag "fuse" which is located under the wood grained console it pops off. After he located and inspected the fuse it was blown, after he replaced it the light immediately went off!!!!! In conclusion replace your airbag fuse!!!!!!!
  • Last night after dinner, my 2000 Sebring Convertible would start and run for about 2 seconds before dying. Today I was checking things out and noticed the red anti theft system dash light was not illuminated. I reset all the fuses in the underhood fuse box and, as if by divine intervention, the dash light started working and the car started and ran just fine. Is this common? Is my anti theft module beginning to croak?
  • hoyohoyo Posts: 1
    In my 95 sebring LXI, the abs light is on continously. I had it in the shop and they found a bad abs sensor on the left rear wheel in addition to a faulty abs computer.
    The sensor they changed, but the computer was too expensive so I got hold of a used one on ebay, supposedly tested and ok. The problem with the light is still there after the swap and I was wondering if anyone know if I have to reprogramme the computer? This computer is located inside the compartement below the glovebox.

    Geir
  • kmnkmn Posts: 3
    I had the same problem in my 01 convt. and it was the passengerside seatbelt reciever. That fixed the problem
  • I was driving this morning, and the Battery Light comes on. I looked a the manual, but it gave no indication as to why. Any one out there with knowledge of this? Thanks!!
  • cory98cory98 Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 sebring lx and it like looses power when driving for like 30 mins at a time. Mechanics have told me that it might be the catltic converter or the fuel filter. I dont know what it is. It will drive fine for 25 to 30 mins then it will loose power. Then you turn the car off and let it sit for 15 mins it wont do that, until like 25 to 30 mins have passed.
  • ncky1224ncky1224 Posts: 2
    I have a 96 Sebring Convertible JX and it just recently has started to stall out and not want to start. Sometimes I will be driving down the road it will be die, my steering in the car becomes tight and it dies. Then it will not start for a few minutes. After I let it sit for a while, it starts. I brought it to a local garage this past month and they replaced the Map sensor and said it was all fixed. However this morning I drove it to work and then I was leaving at lunch time and the car was dead???? I got it running and drove it back to the garage tonight. Any ideas anyone?
  • tprovolttprovolt Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 1995 Sebring LXi which is in almost new condition and that I absolutely love. I only purchased it a week and a half ago. Just today it didn't want to start, and then while I was driving it just cut out (a few times). One thing that was different than every other day, was that yesterday I accidentally set off the alarm (which I didn't know was armed) by opening the passenger side door. Have you learned anything else about why your car might be cutting out? :confuse:
  • no1bobono1bobo Posts: 1
    Unfortunately, the airbag will not deploy in an accident. I had the same problem with my 2002 limited. I wonder if it is all tied together. My fan motor stopped blowing and they fixed that under warranty. The airbag light mysteriously came on and I took it after warranty to be repaired by the dealer.The dealer instructed me that as long as the light was on that the air bag would not deploy. They said it was one or both seat belt sensors. By the time I was ready to have the work done to fix it, it mysteriously went off. Now it is back on a year later.
  • ncky1224ncky1224 Posts: 2
    I haven't heard anything back about the car cutting out. The garage that I brought it to is now closed due to a electric fire there so I have been waiting on an appointment at the local Chrysler dealership. Just my luck they dont have an opening until the end of next week. :confuse:
  • We bought a used 2001 Sebring LXi V-6 2.7 litre engine vehicle in January 2005. It had 59k miles then, it now has 86k miles. We have been very good about oil changes especially after I read in this forum about the possibility of sludge. We live in a hot climate(North Texas) and the oil gets changed every 3000-3500 miles.

    On Friday afternoon, the oil pressure light came on at idle for just a few seconds then disappeared, and then did at again a few minutes later. I got the car into a mechanic this morning(in our area almost all independent mechanics are closed on Saturday) and it was too good to be true. Almost immediately he noticed the oil pressure switch was leaking, so he replaced it. $61! I felt like I won the lottery as I drove away and then 20 minutes later it happened again, this time at every stop.

    I need to backup. At one point this mechanic said he would do a "manual oil pressure check" but after he noticed the switch leaking he didn't do it.

    I took the car right back and he said the oil pressure must really be low, but he doesn't have one part to do the oil pressure test. He says he will get that one part, call me, we can do the oil pressure test, if it's really low, we can try heavier oil, if that doesn't help we'll probably have to replace the oil pump and that repair is a $600-700 job.

    My questions are as follows: Are we spinning our wheels with this oil pressure test, and even after that, will replacing the oil pump solve the problem? I don't know much about cars, but I've never heard of an oil pump being replaced. Finally, is all of this related to the "sludge engine problem" that I read about last year?

    Thanks
  • derekw420derekw420 Posts: 4
    Im having the exact same problem. Ive replaced numerous parts (timing belt, distrubtor and cap, fuel pump, wires and plugs) and nothing fixed it. Ive checked the air intake and filters to make sure it is recieving the proper amount of airflow. Im thinking of taking it to the muffler shop and getting a flow test done and then cleaning or replacing injectors. Please let me know if you find out what is wrong with yours.
  • derekw420derekw420 Posts: 4
    I finally got my problem figured out. There was a bracket that holds the ERG valve. A pin slipped out of the braket and made my car run like crap. It was about $150 for the part and well worth it. The mechanic told me that it is very hard to change and thats why most mechanics overlook that part and go on to somethig else. All I know is that my car is purring like a kitten now.
  • Can you tell me exactly what was wrong with your car I'm trying to figure out is that what i need?
  • derekw420derekw420 Posts: 4
    When I would come to a stop, my RPMs would drop and sometimes my car would die. I could start it right back up but I would have to give it some gas or it would immediately die again. My check engine light came on and when I checked the code, it was reading a "fuel air mixture problem". The missing ERG pin was making my car run too rich resulting in a carbon build-up inside of the engine and injectors, so I had to clean that out also. It felt like my timing was off or some of my spark plugs werent working but that wasnt the case. Also, if I was driving at 5mph or more, it didnt seem to have any problems. It was only when I would stop or start my car without holding the gas peddle down a bit. I also took my car to a muffler shop because I thought I may have had an exhaust problem but it checked out fine. It ran even worse when my AC was on. Let me know if this helped you.
  • Thank you it helped me alot. The problem I am having is that I could be on the freeway and all of sudden my car would just lose gas even if I push the pedal. I would have to sit on the side of the road for about 30 min. Sometimes it would die, sometimes it wouldn't. However, if after sitting for about 30 min it would drive fine again for about 2 more weeks then happen again. The mechanic says they cant do anything until my light comes on. It finally came on after 2 months, now I keep getting different diagnosis.
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