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Pontiac Grand Am Security Passlock Problems



  • I have the security light on - not bliking. Tried the ten minute reset thing - nothing. Pulled off the PCM connectors - no corrosion. Removed the Ignition switch and reset the PCM per repair manual instructions - no luck. Can't get it started. Any suggestions by other that have experienced this?
  • Few questions, when you put the key in the ignition and try to start it does the starter engage and the engine turn over or do you get nothing?
    Tell me what happens from the start.
  • tlou17tlou17 Posts: 1
    So I have a 2000 pontiac grand am. I had an after market alarm isntalled in 2000 when I got the car. Well the remotes for that stopped working about 2 years ago. Well long story short we uninstalled the alarm then the key would not turn so Monday I had my ignition changed and now the security light is on and when I turn the key all I hear is a click. I tried the relearn on yesterday and nothing after the 3 cycles still nothing anything you can suggest? Would cutting the yellow wire solve my problem? and also would my car start if jummped? I am so disgusted with this so any help is appreciated! :cry:
  • I put the key in and turn on the ignition. The security light stays illumintated - not blinking. The car does turn over but it acts as if the gas has been shut off.
  • Bicycletroy.
    When I had a passlock problem the light would be blinking when I tryed to start the car, the car wouldn't turn over, nothing happened. I turned it on and waited the ten min. when the light went out I started the car. When ever I was driving the car and the security light would come on I knew the next time I would have problems starting the car. Your problem doesn't sound like a passlock problem, it's more then likly a fuel pump thinking, find the fuel pump connecter at the fuel tank and run a wire from the battery to the power side of the pump and see if the pump comes on, if not then replace the pump. I'm not saying that you don't have a passlock problem, I'm saying your car isn't starting this time because of something other then passlock.
  • I have read almost all of the posts in this thread. There is a lot of good information here, and there are a lot of posts about problems that seem to be just starting problems that are not associated with the Passlock(tm) system. I know that most of you don't want to read through 400 or so posts to find out how to fix (or bypass) the problems in your car when the "Security" light comes on, flashes on, or whatever else it does when your vehicle doesn't start. To save you from gleaning through the above posts, I have written a tutorial about the Passlock(tm) system, and how to fix it when it starts to malfunction. Since my tutorial is quite detailed and lengthly, I am placing it on my own website, rather than posting it directly here. You will find it at:
    Grand Am Passlock Security Fix
    Please.... everyone.... this tutorial will fix ONLY problems that have to do with malfunctions of the PASSLOCK(tm) security system on the Grand Am, and many Alero's. It WILL NOT fix problems with the fuel injectors, starter motor, battery, or other items which will also cause your car not to start. If you try to start your car, and the "Security" light comes on and flashes, then read my article. If that is not what is happening, don't bother.
    Dick Berger
    Retired GM Proving Ground Engineer
  • erpnbcerpnbc Posts: 4
    Help!!!! I have been reading posts for a few weeks and I am still at a loss. Here is my story. I bought a 2001 grand am last year, loved it!!!!!
    A few months ago it started becoming harder to start, then on occation when I was driving it would completley shut down. It has continually gotten worse!!! i have had my independant replace the Ignition module and some sensor (sorry, I will have to check my bill, cant remember what it was) only to be at a loss. Honestly, my mechanic seemed rather embarresed but could not find what the problem was. I then phoned GM and they told me it sounded like the pass lock and so I took it in. After 6 hours of being there (1.7 hours diagnostic) they were able to tell me that it may be the fuel pump or fuel pressure switch but would need more time. I was frusterated and said forget and went to pick up the car. After reading many posts on this website and many others, I decided to test fate and had my independant mechanic change the ignition cylinder which as we all know housed the passlock. STILL DIDN"T WORK!!!! However, a day after it was changed I tried to see if my remote starter would still work, it cranked but wouldn't catch. went to start my car and for the first time got the security light on my dashboard which I had to wait the 10 minutes to reset. Also since then when the car stalls the Service Engine, Battery and Oil lights now come on.
    My remote start used to be one of the ways I would be able to start it when it didn't want to start, but over the past month it would start it fine and then as soon as I went to put the car in reverse or drive it would die. Now the remote doesn't start but I really dont care about that. This car came with an aftermarket remote keyless entry and remote start, could this be potentially the problem? I am ready to sell the car but scared that it might be difficult considering it is so problematic, never know when this will happen. My biggest fear is the stalling, today it happened on a bridge, very frightning.

    I am at a loss. Should I consider the battery cables or battery or even spark plugs. What about the fuel filter, had it changed a few months back, could it possibly not be on right or letting air in, or can that happen. Or, has anyone ever experienced a bad connection somewhere else that I might want to consider. PLEASE HELP.
  • OK, I'm not a Machanic for a living but love car's so if you don't want to read this it's OK. I Think your problem is a connector going to one of many sencers. First get some electrical spray cleaner and a tube of dieelectrica grease, pull every connector off each sencer one at a time and clean it, check it for a good connection and apply a dab of grease to it and re-connect it, make sure you get all the sencers connectors because you don't know which one it could be, MAP, TPI, Cam, Crank, distributor, temp, O2, power pack/ coil. and the one's I missed.
    I believe your problem is in one of these connectors that lose it's signal and shuts the engine off, your major ones are the cam, crank sencer, power pack/ coil connector, TPI or TPS. and Distributor, the distributor connection is what keeps your fuel pump going, with out its signal the fuel pump shuts off. Also have your independent check the connections to your PCM, ECM or what ever they want to call it.
    Keep us informed as to what you find
  • erpnbcerpnbc Posts: 4
    Thank you sooooo much! I appreciate any feedback. I have a friend who is a mechanic and after speaking with him last night he would like to see if he can offer any help, because I am taking a huge loss if I sell it. I think I will sell it regardless but at least need to know what is wrong with it to give info to new owner if it can sell. I have thought about cleaning connections, just not sure where they all would be, thats where my friend would come in.

    It really sucks because this was my first sporty car purchase and I love it, but I am so scared to keep it even if I can fix it as it seems to have so many issues that arise with this car! :confuse:
    Thank you for your message.
  • The more electrical they put on a car the more problems you get. I've got a friend that was fighting a stalling problem on his Dodge, the computer said O2 sencer but after a year he found his problem by accident, it was the connector on his power pack and now his car runs great. He was just lucky.
    Let us know what you find out.
  • Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a shot. Get this - I took it to an independant mechanic. They replaced the lock cyclinder which got rid of the security light. It started up so I brought it home. The next day - it doesn't start. Acts just as it did when I took it in. GRRRRRR.
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    Changing the lock cylinder won't do anything to the typical Passlock problem - the Hall effect sensor is on the ignition switch, not part of the lock cylinder. Go back and read post 394 and look at the link supplied. Very good info and permanent repair without any major work. Passlock is a bit more complicated than presented, but the technical operation really isn't important for the bypass shown.
  • When you pull out the lock cylinder there is a Integrated Circuit chip connected to it with 3 wires including the infamous "yellow" wire. Isn't this the Hall effect sensor?
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    You must be talking about the ignition switch then. The lock cylinder is the center part that the key goes into that simply turns inside the switch. It's not an IC by the way, it's a simple magnetic switch. If you haven't done so go look at post 394.
  • According to the shop manual, when your SECUTITY light is on solid (not blinking), it indicates that something has gone wrong with your security system WHILE YOUR CAR WAS RUNNING, and the Body Control Module has bypassed the security system. In this case, the security system is no longer working, and therefore, it is NOT the cause of your engine not running. I'm not a mechanic, I'm an Electronics Engineer, so I can't diagnose your problem, but the indication is that you have something other that the security system wrong with your car. If you look back to several previous posts, you will see that when you cut the yellow wire to solve the SECURITY problem, your car will run, but the SECURITY light will be on solid.
    Unfortunately for you, there is more wrong with your car than the security system, possibly bad ignition system, bad injectors, or a bad Body Control Module.
    You could try the modification suggested in Post #394, which would certainly eliminate the security system from your possible culprits, but that leaves several other possible causes for your problem, and tripower1 is likely right about it not getting fuel.
    Dick B.
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    By the way, your link in post 394 is very good.
  • raycorriraycorri Posts: 13
    I thought you guys would find this interesting. Apparently, the makers of these bypass modules have finally started marketing these things as a means of bypassing the passlock without adding the remote starter. (And actually providing the instructions.) It's about time someone has broken the silence in some sort of industry.
  • I've read several hundred of these 400 plus replies in this thread along with a hundred or more in several other automotive forums. It's all a painful jumble in my head, but I think I want to go the route mentioned by Ray Corri in post #405....get some sort of learning module used by a remote starter company like Passlock2 or DEI Viper PLJX(I think that's the alphabet soup of a name) The Passlock2 website only mentions the 2000 Impala and not my 2002. I see that there is a Passlock, a Passlock I and a Passlock II and also something called Passkey. I went to the link in post #394 and compared its description of how the Passlock system can be bypassed with what my owner's manual says. His owner's manual gives a specific timeframe whereas my manual for the 2002 Impala says, "If the engine stalls and the SECURITY message flashes, wait until the light stops flashing before trying to restart the engine." No ten minute time frame is mentioned. Anyway, bottom line, I'm trying to determine what version of Passlock, Passkey, or whatever is used on my 2002 Impala(3400 V6 E Vin code) so that I can order the right type of bypass module. I hope people will start posting reviews of whatever remote starter or bypass module they use and how it worked for specific were the you need to know how to solder, read a VOM, etc etc.
  • Does anyone know of a reputable mechanic or auto place in the Hampton Roads(Newport News, Hampton, Yorktown, Norfolk, Va Beach, Chesapeake, Portsmouth, etc) area who installs remote starter kits? If I buy a remoter starter kit(aka bypass module) I won't be physically able to install it myself. I don't have the directions included with the kits so I don't know if your average shadetree mechanic can handle this or if it is best left to someone who works with car/audio installation and the like. I have tried Googling Passlock along with my area and only get hits on car dealers selling used cars who are touting the Passlock as a if it were a good thing instead of a nightmare.

    Thanks for any and all advice and information in advance to this post and my previous one where I posted before signing my name.

    Danny Moses
    Yorktown, VA
    2002 Impala Security light came on while running for the first time today...and I know what is in my future and am trying to be proactive for once.
  • Also since then when the car stalls the Service Engine, Battery and Oil lights now come on.

    It is normal for the Service Engine, Battery, and Oil Lights to come on when the vehicle stalls. It happens every time I stall mine by letting the clutch out too fast.
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