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Pontiac Grand Am Security Passlock Problems



  • lsuzilsuzi Posts: 1
    Thank you! Fix took me about 45 wanted $600 to fix. The resistor cost 99 cents. Senior citizen on fixed income. Thanks again for your help, Mr. Berger! :)
  • ok so i have a 04 ga gt v6 and since the day i got it the drivers window didn't work. (bought new :lemon: ) and now the lights ( headlights and tail lights flicker ) mostly when it is off but does sometimes do it when running not as much took it to the dealership they claimed they fixed it one week later the same thing started happening i found that if i take out the head lamps fuse and one next to it it will stop but i have to do that every time i go somewhere so i can get home is that a pass lock issue??? bcm??? i think the dealership put a new bcm in ill check on that and idk what to do i cant afford a new car and i dont wanna take my fuses out 4 tiems a day its just a hassle :shades: thanks a bunch u can email me also if u know the problem the faster fixed the better
  • If you took it to the dealer while it was in warranty, and they didn't fix it, bring it back to the dealer, along with the original work order. They will have to fix it under warranty.
    It sounds like you have enough knowledge about automobile wiring to have figured out that taking the headlamp fuse out will keep your battery from running down. I would think you can troubleshoot this problem yourself, and find the short in your system if you purchase a shop manual. At any rate, your inquiry does not belong in this thread. Try searching for something to do with headlights not turning off. Oh, and by the way, Try to use correct grammar. It really helps us to understand your problem if we can decipher what you are trying to say.
  • I did check all of these wires and didnt find anything (used volt meter) and my ?? is could the pass lock issue be the cause of flickering headlamps??? and i checked the dealer invoice and they say they reset my bcm and charged me a good bit to do so should i cut the passlock wire and would that help??and by the way i didnt come to this forum b/c i thought it was exactly my problem i came because i thought it might help me solve my problem or at least point me in the right direction thanks for the help guys.
  • I wouldn't think the passlock issue would cause any headlight problems. Yes, both are controlled by the BCM, but they are entirely separate parts of the programming. The more likely suspect would be anything related to Daytime Running Lights. There is a relay associated with Daytime Running Lights which may be the problem, but without a service manual, it would be hard to trace down the cause.
  • I have had my car at 3 different shops and towed 5 times within a month. My car will not start, wants to turn over, everytime i had my car towed to a shop it would start right up!!! they never could find a thing wrong with it, till i had it towed again yesterday morning to pep boys, which the time before put a new ignation in and switch and charged me over 400.00 for nothing, as it did not fix my problem. pepboys said this time my car would not start, and they could find the problem now, they told me it was the security system that i had to get it towed to the dealership, when the car go to the dealership they were able to start it!!! the man spent over 4 hours on my car and could not find a thing wrong with my car!!! in which he did not charge me a dime. So what i have heard now is i need to go get a new key made at the dealership for about 40.00, here is a web page that had info on it about this pass key, i am hoping this works as i have a daughter i take to work by 7am then me and my 2 yr old grandson waste 20 min in store before i take him to school, between my paying for my towing, taxi cabs service etc this is so killing me!!! hope this helps and i am going to try the key and keep my fingers crossed!!
  • ccsmileybear,
    I do not believe you need a new key. This thread deals with Pontiac security systems which have the resistor and switches as part of the ignition switch. If your vehicle is between 1999 and 2003, it's likely you don't have a system which relies on a circuit in the ignition key. What year and model is your pontiac?

    1. When the car won't start, is the "SECURITY" light flashing?
    2. After you do the 10-12 minute relearn process, does the "SECURITY" light go out?
    3. Has your "SECURITY" light ever come on solid and stayed on after the vehicle has been running for at least a minute or so?

    You can probably find the solution to your problem in one of the following messages in this thread:
    #50 (be sure to click on the links and view the pictures)
    #394 (follow the link marked "Grand Am Passlock Security Fix")

    There are descriptions of many people's problems in many of the other posts, but if you read just these few messages, and read them thoroughly, you will have the answer to all but 0.01% of the Passlock problems.

    And then, there is my usual suggestion:
    Get a genuine Service Manual for your particular vehicle
    My suggestion is to get an Online Manual from the following source:
  • Hi, my car is a pontiac grand am, i went and got the manual out of my car, and read in there about the passlock, also after doing research it does show where you need to get a new key, which makes sense. i am going to try that first and hopefully that works. if not i am going to trade off my car, after reading this post what a nightmare and i do not want to have to worry if my car will start every time i shut it off!!
  • ooops 2002 pont gran am
  • 2002 Pontiac Grand Am does not use a special key. I did the modification as shown in this link:
    2002 Grand Am Passlock Mod

    I have never had the passlock problem since.

    DO NOT PAY ANYONE MORE THAN $2.50 FOR A NEW KEY. In my 2002 Grand Am SE, I use cheap keys made at the Home Depot key counter. Many GM cars need the special keys, but not this model. Another way to check if you need one of the electronic keys is to look at the side of your ignition key, near the bottom of the black coating, and see if there is a "+" stamped on the key. If not, then your key is good as long as it will allow you to turn the ignition switch.

    Dick B.
  • ja33ja33 Posts: 23
    If you woud take a look at my message #695, i have a cheaper solution. Just put a drop of three in one oil on your present ignition key. Try it but do to take a look at my message. It is now over 11 months since I stopped having the passlok security starting problem. Alero owners had the same problem, tried the oil and problem resolved.... Too easy...Ja
  • Hello Mr. Berger,

    I have a 2000 Oldsmobile Alero that's been having the passlock problem (will not start, must wait ten minutes, etc.). I came across your website with the fix (bergerweb) so I thought I'd try it. I'm in the middle of fixing it right now, but before I cut any wires or anything, I found what might be a difference in my car and your grandam and wanted some advice in how to move forward.

    On your site, the middle connector for the body control module goes from A1-A12, left to right. However, mine is the opposite (A12-A1 left to right), and also the black wire comes out of the A6 port and the yellow wire out of the B6 port, if that makes sense. I know the wires shouldn't matter, but I just wanted your advice before I cut the wrong understanding is that I should strip "my" yellow wire (B6) and cut the black wire (A6) and solder the resistor as instructed, but I just wanted to check. Thanks for your time!
  • Cut the yellow wire, and solder a resistor from B6 to the black wire on A6.
  • jhweejhwee Posts: 1
    Thanks for your message, it is very helpful.
    I just had this problem, and solved it yesterday
  • ja33ja33 Posts: 23
    Before you start cutting wires and all that "mechanical neat stuff", put a drop of three in one oil on your ignition key and clean it. Then see my message #695 for details for an easy solution to the passlok security starting problem. It may sound too simple but it has worked for me for 11 months without failure.

    I will probably stop posting this suggestion on this Pontiac thread, since everyone here wants to do the mechanical thing. Alero owners had the same starting problem and have used this solution. These two cars are essentially the same and have the same problems. Save yourself some time and money. If you try it, please reply.....Ja
  • Ever sense I got my car, Ive had a problem with it wanting 2 start when the weather is cold, it tries 2 start, but wont "catch" & turn over. Ive had a new fuel pump put in 2 yrs ago & it works fine. The problem has gotten worse over the yrs & now I'll run my battery dead trying 2 start it. Once the car has started it runs gr8, no problems 2 all. The only time my sec light comes on is when im driving steady for about 4-5 hrs to florida. I live in NC. even b4 the new fuel pump Ive had this problem. It only happens when the weather gets below 45. It takes many tries over a 30-45 min time frame almost like the engine has 2 warm up by trying 2 start b4 it will start. b4 it got this bad I could put it in neutral 4 it 2 start, now that wont wrk anymore. if any1 can help with this mystery I would b gr8ful. the dealership cant find anything wrong with it. Im @ a loss as 2 what 2 do. Im a single mom & cant afford much more $. I have friends that will help fix it, but they havent had this problem b4 & r @ a loss 2.
  • There is a reasonable explanation why putting 3 in 1 oil on your key may solve the problem in certain cases. The GM lock mechanism used with Passlock II consists of a locking cylinder that turns a rotating magnet to the point where it is located in front of a stationary hall effect sensor. The sensor then goes from a high impedance to a low impedance, effectively shorting a resistor that is inside the passcode mechanism between the black and yellow wires. This causes an analog voltage proportional to the size of the resistor to be present on the yellow wire. This analog voltage is read by the Body Control Module, and converted to a digital value. Then the Body Control Module compares that value to the one it has previously stored when it was programmed. If the two values are within a reasonable tolerance, the Body Control Module allows the vehicle to run. If not, The Body Control Module sends a signal to the Powertrain Control Module that tells it that a theft attempt is in progress, and the Powertrain Control Module will not allow the Fuel Injectors to operate.
    As the lock cylinder wears over the years, metal flakes from the lock cylinder accumulate around the magnet, which disrupt the magnetic field. When enough metal flakes are present, there will not be sufficient magnetic flux to fully energize the hall effect switch. When that happens, instead of the electronics reading the value of the resistor inside the passcode mechanism, it reads the value of the resistor plus the resistance of the hall switch, thus getting a false reading.

    It is possible that applying a sufficient amount of 3 in 1 oil into the ignition switch serves to wash the metal filings out of the mechanism, thus restoring the magnet to its full power. The system will then work properly until more metal filings accumulate around the magnet. Flushing the ignition cylinder with any lubricant or cleaner may fix the problem many times, but if filings happen to get lodged around the magnet and don't get washed away, you may have to either remove the lock barrel from the cylinder and clean it manually, or replace it, or do the resistor mod to fix your problem.

    Also, this is a fix for only ONE of the FOUR components that make up the Passlock II system, which are:
    Lock Cylinder
    Body Control Module
    Powertrain Control Module

    Happy troubleshooting.
  • Ever sense I got my car, Ive had a problem with it wanting 2 start when the weather is cold, it tries 2 start, but wont "catch" & turn over.

    The car should only try to start when you turn the key to the start position. If it wants to start every time the weather is cold, that's a big problem. It's a good thing it wont catch, else it may drive away when you don't want it to when the weather is cold.

    I don't think we can diagnose your problem without you telling us the year and make of your car. I have a feeling you may have a plugged up fuel filter, which would cause this type of problem more often when the weather is cold.

    On your next post, please use english, rather than text-speak. It is extremely hard to understand.
  • 2003 grand am v6. The car has a problem starting when the weather is cold. I get into the car, I turn the key to start the car and the car will not start. It tries to start but will not turn over (?), forgive me if this is not the proper way of saying it. I have had this problem for 3 years now, but it has gotten worse over the past three months. I had a new fuel pump put in along with the fuel filter two years ago. On 10-26-09, the battery went dead with trying to start the car. It takes between 30-45 mins. of trying to start the car before it will start. Once the car has started it runs great with no problems until the next morning when I try to start it again. I am so desperate to find out what the problem is, as I live in the middle of no where & have 2 young children, that having a car I know is going to start up when I turn the key is very important to me, Im willing to take the english insult with a smile. I am sorry for not using english the first time I posted and do hope that someone can help me. Thank you all.
  • My daughter has 2004 Grand AM and it didn't start several times with the security light blinking but worked after "10 minute reset". The security light is constantly on lately but the cars starts OK. Does it mean that the contact of yellow wire is broken? Will it start after I change the battery - I think that "cut the yellow wire" solution requires to connect it before changing the battery.

    And yes, I've used oil on the key but it didn't turn off the light :)
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