Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Pontiac Bonneville Starting/Stallling/Ignition Problems



  • azuazu Posts: 84
    Had same problem with my 95. Found it had a bad ground or two. Checked all grounds (I think there are 6) and found one touching where it shouldn't and two that had oxidation. Cleaned them off and that problem stopped! The two I would check first are under the hood as these are the ones I believe where I had the problem.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,740
    I've seen reports of the interior things you're commenting ork and don't work traces to ground buss bars in the lower wire bundle in the A pillar next to the parking brake near the floor and back along the driver's door under sill/along sill there's another connection. They're wrapped inside lots of electrical tape usually. Moisture causes corrosion there. Remove, clean, protect, replace.



    This message has been approved.

  • azuazu Posts: 84
    This car is awesome when it is running. I have had it since February and it seems to be down more than it's up. The continuing problem is starting. It will run flawless but then after you park it and come back or the next day it will crank and not turn over. When this first happened it was bad grounds. Cleaned them and problem went away for a month. Then it wouldn't start again. Fuel pump not turning on. Replaced fuel filter, relay, regulator and fuel pump. Fuel pump was not bad but replaced it anyway since we had the tank off. Replaced crankshaft sensor and it started. Then I decided to replace serpentine belt as it was worn. Well the compressor pulley seized and had to replace that as well as the harmonic balancer which went because of the pulley. Car ran great for the past 6 weeks and all of a sudden it wouldn't start again. Now I was parked on a hill and the fuel was low so we added about 5 gallons. We got the car to turn over and moved it to level ground. Now the car will turn over and run for maybe 30 seconds and die. Had mechanic hook up computer to on board computer and could not pull any codes. I am wondering now if it is the on board computer as certainly it should have set some codes. Any thoughts?
  • ph71ssph71ss Posts: 1
    I had a 92 SE until New years day and somebody totaled it when it was parked. Anyway, I had the same problem about 2 mos. ago. the problem in my car was the ignition module under the coil pack. It cost 107.00 at advance auto parts. Changed it and car was running sweet with 166000 miles on it till it got smashed. good luck
  • hi, im new here, i was just wondering, i went to start my 93 pontiac bonneville and it wont turn over at all, no clicking or cranking-nothing. the lights still work so does the door chime, i tried having it jumped. its got one of those remote starters-can anyone give me an idea what it might be, cant tow it right now im broke so i kinda hoped it would be something i could get at the store and bring home to fix it. HELP!
  • I have a 1993 Pontiac Bonneville that won't start. All the lights come on and the power windows work but it won't start. It has chip in the key for the ignition, could that be it? I want to take it in to the mechanic but would like to have some idea what what might be wrong with it first.
  • marialomarialo Posts: 1
    My 93 Bonneville wont start. it turns, but wont catch. I was at a light and when i tried to take off, it cut off. I've replaced the crank sensor, harmonic balancer, icm, fuel is getting to the engine, and the starter is good. what's next PLEASE HELP
  • fabriennefabrienne Posts: 1
    Hi, OK, My car is turning but it refuses to turn over and start. When I turn the key it just turns, it seems like it's not catching a spark OR getting gas to somewhere. Then again it might be electrical, it's almost like I'm trying to steal my own car! I could get a diagnostic check if I could start the car and actually drive it to a shop. I've heard things like ignition coil/module, key pad battery, (keyless entry) and alot of other things that dont sound promising. Though now and again it will start when it feels like it. To me it sounds like something is off set (electrical) :mad:
  • torqedtorqed Posts: 1
    just had the same problem on my 1999,it was the theft deterent module behind the glove box . The part is around 250.00 from the dealer (dealer only part) it's about the size of a pack of cigarettes. pain in the $#%. hope that helps good luck.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,740
    If I understand your statement:

    The car is cranking.

    You're not getting what sounds like any firing so you may have a spark problem or a fuel problem.

    Have you tried listening for the fuel pump when you first turn the key? It should run for 2-3 seconds and then stop after having built up pressure. This occurs every time you turn the key from off to on.

    Checking for spark may require removing a spark plug wire and placing it next to a metal ground and watching for the spark while someone cranks the motor.

    If your car is cranking then it's not the theft deterrent part of the system. It reads a resistor in the key, and the theft portion says it has the right resistance reading or doesn't. If it doesn't it allows 3 tries and then turns on the security light flashing and lasts for about 3 minutes before allowing another try.

    When you put the key it and turn to "on" the security light should come on for about 10 seconds if you just sit there without turning the key to crank. The light is solid and goes off. That indicates a good reading.

    IF THE READING is wrong the car will not crank. The dash lights are all on, but it's like a dead battery as far as the starter and ignition.

    You're getting cranking so it's not the theft deterrent. If it is not cranking be very careful because early years had a different theft deterrent setup than a few years later if I understand other posts in another forum. The theft deterrent readings were done by the main computer. Later cars had a separate theft deterrent module.

    The two little wires to the key can be cut where they connect into a connector near the base of the steering column and a set of resistors from a Radio Shack type store can be soldered in the line to replace the correct resistance the key should give and the car goes happily on fom there but just no theft deterrence. The little wires break partially or completely up at the top where the column flexes.

    The list of resistances is available as VATS system lists on the web. You resistance on the key chip should be close to one of those readings. You do not need to buy a replacement module.

    I repeat, you have cranking, therefore your problem is not the theft deterrence module.

    This message has been approved.

  • rwigrenrwigren Posts: 1
    I had the same problem as you its actually quite an easy fix. It has to do with the security of the car so it won't start up. Get a new battery for your remote and try starting it up that way that's how I got my started back up but my security light stays on now. Hope that can help you
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,740
    Is the "security" light flashing? If so, that means the key resistor is not getting read correctly and the VATS systemis locking out the starter. After 3 minutes you can try again with a different key if you have one or with a key where you've cleaned the resistor. The wires n the steering column break after tilting the wheel up and down millions of times. Or the contacts inside the key cylinder don't contact the key like they used to do.

    Or if your security light isn't indicating a wrong key chip reading, there are problems with batteries they age. Some of the folk here need to use a jumper to a good battery and see if they can start their car. There also can be corrosion on the battery cables at both ends and on both cables. There have bee problems with battery acid leaking around the contacts and the acid wicking down into the cable inside the plastic and deteriorating the cable.

    A starter can go back and just make no noise when you turn the key to crank. The check there is to use a voltmeter and see if you're getting current on the starter connection at the starter under the car when someone turns the key. A friend of mine actually used a jumper cable to go from a battery charger that has a surge capability to give jump starts and contacted the starter terminal to check his starter--nothing.

    If you've been getting oil dripping under the car from the oil pan seeping slightly over the years, that can get inside the starter and cause problems.

    This message has been approved.

  • have a 1995 Pontiac Grand Am GT with a 2.4 liter quad 4 engine. It is also a 5 speed with 154,000 miles.My car ran fine until i put a for sale sign on it in my front yard(go figure:). The other day i went to crank it to wash it off from sitting under the trees and there was nothing but a click. Well after about 6 clicks it started turning over BUT would not crank. I turned the key off and try again and there is a click again. Sometimes it might take 2 turns of the key and sometimes 6 or 7 times before the motor starts turning over. Not sure what the deal is so out of curiosity I had my wife come out and try get it turning over(after a couple of trys) and I sprayed starting fluid into the breather. It acted like it was going to crank then but to no avail. Could you offer any advice on this problem and thank you
  • henrylhenryl Posts: 15
    I have a 96 Bonnie SE sometimes while im driving the car just shuts off (this happens at freeway speeds) Sometimes I can put the car in neutral and it stars other time I have to coast to the side of the road and try to start itagain any solutions? Also the security light comes on then after 3-5 min I can try to start the car. :sick:
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,740
    If you're saying that it's not turning the motor over and you're just getting a click, I'd start by removing and cleaning and inspecting the battery cables at the battery. See if there's corrosion on them. If the positive has more than one cable layered onto a single post check between them carefully for corrosion from the battery acid atmosphere.

    This message has been approved.

  • I am having the same problem with my Boneville cutting off at highway speeds. Did you discover what was causing your problem?
  • I had this same problem with my Bonniville. That little ground buss along the rocker area inside the car under carpet is a BIG problem!!!!!
  • I had this same problem with my Bonniville. That little ground buss along the rocker area inside the car under carpet is a BIG problem!!!!!windows cut out no fuel pump etc..had to clean wires and put in a buss from a hardware and re-do.
Sign In or Register to comment.