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Mercedes-Benz C-Class Care and Maintenance



  • ruckenrucken Posts: 2
    Hi melo my name is george,i also have a 2001 c-240 and my warranty is up in 3 wks i know the price is around 2300.00 can. But think if we have a problem later on it will be heavy, think a b-service it costs $500.00,well let me know about it.Thanks
  • billp8billp8 Posts: 56
    ...regarding tail lamp bulbs. My 2000 C is due for servicing next month. In nearly five years, I have only had 1 bulb burn out (bottom right tail light on passenger side). I am on my third bulb (less than one year). The light is out for a few moments when the car is started (and the "light out" lamp glows on the dash). After a few miles, the bulb comes on. The outage seems to be random. Perhaps a bad connection?
  • stroudmanstroudman Posts: 192
    definitely take the car in to an authorized MB service center B4 your coverage expires! The worst that can happen is there will be nothing wrong with your car, and you'll get it back clean. If nothing's obviously wrong, tell them you had a sporadic engine light or something so they can look for a code under warranty. That way, if anything IS wrong, fix it while it's still free, and if it isn't covered, take the non-covered repairs to the indie on the cheap, but make sure they know what they're doing. Ask around.

    As far as a B-service, that covers almost everything prior to an actual tune-up at 100k miles, so it's worth it. If your car is on the flex-service system ('98 or newer) it won't need a B-service again until after its next A service, which is less than half the cost of the B. Take good care of these cars, and they'll last you a long, long time.
  • kpotter3kpotter3 Posts: 1
    The small wrench symbol that counts down miles to service, does anybody know how to reset it, without going to an MB dealer?
  • stroudmanstroudman Posts: 192
    If it was't reset by a mercedes tech, that means you probably haven't taken it to one...BE CAREFUL letting any else around a flex-serve mercedes! You should be able to use the menu buttons on the steering wheel (arrows) to get to the wrench screen. Once there, press the reset button to the left of your instrument cluster and hold it until the #'s reset.
  • dcsaabdcsaab Posts: 13
    First of all, thanks so much for all your honest insight and information. I have a question - in the next month or so, I will be trading my Saab 9-5 in for either C240 or C230. In your opinion which is a better car? I split my driving 50-50 city and hwy. I like both cars, but I like the idea of a V6, but I love the looks of the C230 and the idea of more horses. Thanks!
  • stroudmanstroudman Posts: 192
    If you plan to buy new, the 230 is, IMO a better value. But be aware of something - the 230 will cost you less at point of sale, get you much better gas mileage, and be as fun to drive as a 3-series, but much smoother. What you have to take into account is tire wear. "16 all-seasons on the 240, quiet, durable, rotatable. The 230 comes with staggered-width "17, Z-rated tires that you will get a maximum of 15k miles out of. You can replace them with a harder tire, but the cost of ownership will slowly catch up with the 240 over time b/c of the tire issue.

    -Otherwise, one's definatley set up aesthetically to please the lux-minded folks, the other the sporty, youthful crowd, so whichever suits your wants and needs...they have 95% same DNA.
  • dcsaabdcsaab Posts: 13
    That makes sense - thanks. BTW, what state are you in?
  • stroudmanstroudman Posts: 192
    Georgia...glad if I could help.
  • benzingbenzing Posts: 2
    Does anyone know what the B service consist of? I have called MB 3 times, and I get 3 different answers. The only thing that is consistent, is it includes and oil change that I can do myself for $50.
    Does anyone know where the fuel filter is and how to get to it; while I have your attention?
    Is getting a Platinum Extended Warrenty (bumper to bumper more or less) worth it ($2500)?
  • benzingbenzing Posts: 2
    Don't use anything less than premium. The higher the octane, the more stable and the more it can be compressed . So your car is set up to compress premium to a certain point before it ignites. A lesser octane would cause a premature ignition, before your car is ready for it, causing damage inside the cylinder.
  • black280black280 Posts: 5
    I use mobil 1 in my c-class because it is recommended by mercedes and is factory fill in
    all AMG vehicles. No problems, I use 10W-30 and it works just fine for most of the year. Then maybe 10W-40 later.
  • ehanekomehanekom Posts: 1
    I wonder if anyone could help me with the reset procedure of the wrench light on C180 1999 model as it does not have the controls on the steering wheel as mentioned with the C230.
  • jcolbyjcolby Posts: 5
    I will own a 1995 C220 tomorrow. Has anyone used an OBD diagnostics tool with this or other Mercedes? Any recommendations on a particular one? The price ranges are from $130 to $1,695. I don't want the most expensive nor do I want to get one that is inadequate. Are any of them adequate for a Mercedes or does Mercedes have numerous codes that can't be diagnosed by a third party diagnostic tool?

    I don't want to be a rocket scientist, just be able to tell, for example, when it's the mass air flow sensor that's causing the "check engine" light (which it is right now, by the way, according to a mechanic). Does something like that require special calibration that has to be done at a shop? :confuse:
  • jcolbyjcolby Posts: 5
    I figured this out by getting a subscription to, which is a good deal. They're the only ones who carry model-specific manuals (on-line) for Mercedes.

    The 1995 Mercedes C220 is OBD-II compliant so I just have to decide on which OBD-II scanner now. They all will read the "generic" codes, I'm trying to find one that will read proprietary Mercedes codes at a reasonable price (max $300). :D
  • stroudmanstroudman Posts: 192
    if you look at the left side of the gauge bezel on your dash instruments, you will see three tiny buttons. Two of them adjust light and dark on the dimmer of your instruments, and the other resets your trip odo. Push it twice to reveal the mileage reading, then hold it down till it resets.
  • gurekiangurekian Posts: 3
    Being the A-type perfectionist that I am, I am becoming really frustrated by my 2000 C-Class Kompressor's Engine Warning Light coming on due to the "Low Fuel Indicator light" flashing (despite lots of fuel in the tank).

    The Manual says that this is either due to a) me not putting my gas cap on properly (unlikely - see reference to A-type personality) or b) there is a leak in the gas line.

    I have taken it to the MB dealer now 3 times for this issue (2wice under warranty). The first two times they stated that it was just a glitch and they "reset" the system. Then it happens again in a few weeks. The third time they made me replace the gas cap as it was "faulty" at a cost of $125. Still the light intermittently flashes, which then leads to the Engine Light, which I of course cannot reset manually.

    Does anyone else have this problem? I don't have a fuel line leak and my gas cap is ALWAYS on tight. I'm also beginning to wonder if MB knows what they're talking about.


  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,367
    I think that the prime suspect is the fuel sending unit, a well-known and common problem with German cars in the last 4-5 years. The supplier [Siemens? Bosch?] seems to have produced the same unit that gets used in several German makes, and they have a habit of failing because [allegedly] of the higher sulfur content in American fuel.

    However, it is precisely because this is such a well-known problem that I have some doubts - surely your dealer has thought about this possibility? If not, put the thought into their collective heads. The most common symptom of the sending unit problem is pretending the tank is empty or nearly so, when in fact it can be completely full - sound familiar?
  • gurekiangurekian Posts: 3
    Thanks for the quick feedback. I'll have to bring it up with them and ask if that might be the issue. The only thing though is that the fuel light does not just light up, but flashes until I turn the car off and restart again. Along with the amber "Check Engine" light it becomes quite the light show when driving at night.

    My understanding is that when the car comes to a stop, engine running, it performs a quick "pressure check" on the fuel line to make sure that there is no leaks, either through the improperly tighted gas cap or through an actual leak in the fuel line. MB has said that they performed a pressure check on the system and found nothing. So is the sensor faulty?

    The car's operation has not suffered at all - just my mental aggravation!

    Can I reset the "Check Engine" light myself?
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