Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Audi allroad Brake Questions

Hi,
You sound like a smart guy, so heres my problem: 1, My 2002 audi allroad quattro 2.7T's brakes are squeaking, so obviously I took it to the dealer to get it repaired. At the dealer they told me the following: "Due to environmental concerns, Audi, along with other auto manufacturers, has eliminated asbestos in their products. As a substitute, audi has adopted semi-metallic brake pads. Which generate squeak sounds normally." they say this is normal! is that so?

Comments

  • . . .plagues many cars, not just Audi's -- my 2001 did from time to time have this condition; many of my 25 Audis since 1978 have too. The condition seems to be only temporarily curable.

    Now, however, my 2003 squeals less than 1% of the time -- and this is my first Audi in years that has not required brake pad and or rotor changes more frequently than oil changes.

    Perhaps 2002 was the last year for the particular combination of pad, caliper and rotor to cause chronic squeal.

    If you do not have other issues, such as frequent rotor replacement, judder and other confidence robbing characteristics, well, I would probably say: it goes with the territory.

    I would submit this question here and on other Audi forums/town halls that are on the WWW. I think you will find that you are not unique or even very rare.

    Sorry, I know that is not what you wanted to hear.
  • bryobryo Posts: 4
    I called one of the major brake pad manufacturers to ask about low dust pads. The customer service rep told me the complaints about modern pads are:
    - Excessive black dust
    - Noise (squeel or scrape)
    - Poor stopping distance

    He said you get can always solve two of three depending on the pads you choose, but not all three. If you want good stops and low dust, squeel is the one you live with.
  • dlaustindlaustin Posts: 23
    I own an 2001 Allroad purchased new. The car has had brake problems from day 1. The problem is now solved. The main problem was very poor rotors and terrible pads furnished by Audi. After the warranty expired, I changed the rear rotors to Brembo's and the fronts to Zimmerman's. I also changed the pads to Repco Deluxe's (Australian). No cross-drilled rotor and basic pads by Repco. The result, as I knew it would be from years of experience with these products, is: no brake dust, no noise, excellent and true stopping power and virtually no rotor or pad wear. Sounds impossible, doesn't it? But it's not. I expect at least 100K out of each based on previous experiences with 7 series BMW's for over a quarter of a century.

    According to the Audi dealer, the original rotors were warped. The first time they were replaced. The second and third times they were trued. After the warranty expired, I checked runout and exterior appearance. There were all within about .001" and looked fine. Nevertheless, the car suffered from nasty vibration/pulsation when braking normally from speeds over 65 mph. Sometimes the vibration/pulsation was violent. When I removed the rotors and inspected them carefully, the inside faces had small cracks. The machining of the rotors by the dealer did help in the short term, but probably shortened the life of these very-poor-excuses-for rotors over the longer term.

    My recommendation with any rotor is not have it machined locally and only buy first class braking products. It's much too important to skimp on.

    I'm confident that if you follow my advice, you will leave your brake problems behind and for a very long time.

    That's my two cents!
  • rclancyrclancy Posts: 1
    hi dlaustin
    Im wondering if you can help with part no'd for the Brembos, Zimmerman rotors and repco pads. Im looking to replace my 2002 Allroad pads/rotors as well.
    Thanks
  • jsup1jsup1 Posts: 1
    need help...badly. purchased 6spd 01 allroad 7mos ago fr independent dealer,high mileage (68k), bought 3rd party extended warranty, got svc records fr audi dealer, car had been meticulously maintained, brought it to dealer for a look over...thought i took all the right steps.
    just had suspension work (1 new bag, 1 new "module",2new tires, alignment) 5k....was a big nut, but was hoping that was "worst case scenario, done & finished"...had timing belt changed same time b/c/it was "time".. 48 hours and less than 20 miles after getting car back (+1 short highway trip) and check engine light came on, next time out of the driveway lots of engine rumble and voila! no brakes!
    tech says ...brake vacuum hose that broke has nothing to do with the work that they did....does this sound right?
    and to boot as the car got on the flatbed for the 2nd time in two weeks, I noticed trim underneath headlights broken on one side, missing on the other.....wasn't the case when I brought the car in..I've heard techs will sometimes take fr bumper off to get to engine??true??
  • I have a 2001 Allroad 2.7T 6 speed. The car was purchased new in January 2002 (sat on the lot for a year because no one wanted a 6 speed). The car has 65,000 miles on it. I have had to replace the rotors 6 times since I purchased the car---once a year. Thankfully all have been under warranty (even after the 4 year Audi warranty because they had to be replaced within 1 year of installation). I repeatedly have asked the mechanics why my rotors continually warp and they do not have an answer. It sounds like others have had a similar experience. Anyone know why this is happening and what a possible solution might be?
  • I am getting ready to put new pads on my allroad. I looked at them today to see what the job looked like. I do not see how to get the guide pins out? They are smooth wall so no socket will fit and the inside is smooth as well, so no allen wrench or anything will fit either? Am I missing something?
  • I have owned several Audi's and have purchased them all new and have been very happy with the breaks. Just recently I purchased a used 05 Allroad with the 4.2. I purchased the car over the internet with out test driving it but was not really concerned as it came from an Audi dealership and came certified. When driving the car for the first time I noticed that I needed to push the break pedal quite far before the breaks engage as if there was air in the lines or a bad master brake cylinder. I took it to the dealership where they told me that was typical. I had them bleed the breaks but it did not help. If you pump the breaks the pedal will be farther from the floor when the breaks engage again as if there is air in the breaks or a bad master cylinder. My Audi mechanic has always been very reliable, does anybody have any ideas??
    Thanks,larry145
Sign In or Register to comment.