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Jeep Liberty Problem Codes and TSBs

13

Comments

  • Again, you don't have a fuel filter and the code in the odometer will start with a 'P' and then have 3 numbers following it. If you can't figure it out bring it to one of those auto parts stores that will scan DTC's for you. Let me know and maybe we can get you on the right track.
  • I am having the same problem with my wife's Jeep Liberty that is also a 2002. It will randomly die on her. None of the electrical systems shut down it is just the motor. the Heater and the radio and the lights all stay on. I have had the battery checked and the alternator checked and both were fine.
  • Well, we are in the process now of changing the fuel filter because it was really in bad condition so I am hoping that that is the issue...will keep you posted. My battery also checked out fine as well as the alternator so we will see. I have never had one problem with my jeep...love it to death so I am hoping that it is just a case of not maintaining my filters properly. :blush:
  • I'm sorry about saying your liberty didn't have a fuel filter. It does and it is located on top of the fuel tank. I really didn't even know it had one. I have been a Chrysler dealer mechanic for 15 years and I have never changed one. The recomended change interval is to change the filter if and when you need to replace the fuel pump. Almost no other Chrysler vehicles even have fuel filters anymore. When you said you were having it changed I looked it up in the service manual and to my surprise there it was. That being said it is probabally not going to fix your problem. Like I said I have never changed one and I have worked on Hundereds if not Thousands of Libertys over the years. I even own an '03 myself. (has 155K on it).
  • Hey, well here is the recent update. Apparently, I blew a cylinder...whatever that is... :cry: . They are running a diagnostic to see what else could possibly be wrong. My jeep only has 90000 miles on it and for the last 3 years i have driven barely 3000 miles a year on her. Luckily, i have someone who is handy and will fix it...but do you know how much parts for this will be? and anything else we should look for while we are at it. thanks!
  • That depends on what you mean by blown a cylinder. Did you crack a cylinder head? That's the most common issue that I guess could be considered a Blown Cylinder. Get more info!
  • jeeponjeepon Posts: 5
    to dasboot72

    Thanks you for your help, I replaced the part and the check engine light in out. I also have been traveling for work and have had an increase in the mpg back to the orig level. thanks you
  • I have the same issue on my 2005 liberty CRD.. This is not a fuel issue.. The stalling issue happens more frequently when it is warm outside. It typically only happens when bring the vehicle to the 1st stop following the starting of the vehicle. I feels like the transmission locks the torque converter up and stalls under the load. Once the vehicle is restarted the vehicle will run fine.. There is no code for this and the dealer will not do anything to fix the issue. I have been trying for years.. Transmission flush nor torque converter replacement will resolve the issue.. Best thing to do is sell the car.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    In the logic of the vehicle you only get an error code when something unexpected happens once a pre defined condition is reached. Try shifting into Neutral just before applying the brakes; if this doesn't stall the engine I would guess there is a transmission fluid pressure sensing issue or a missing mechanical interlock signal from the hydraulic distributor (gear selector). In a more practical world I would start looking for a bad connection between the tranny, shifting solenoids and controller ;)
  • Hi, I am having some trouble with rough running at start up. I am wondering if I have the EGR trouble. Does any one know what error code is thrown by the "free" readers at autozone when a CRD is having EGR issues. I can see that the dealer will take me for a ride if I play the pay for read game. I would like to find a used "bad" EGR valve that I can tinker with to better understand this exhaust divert system. I also think there is a solenoid I need.
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Posts: 115
    #1 my dealer will only charge 1/2 hour labor for initital diag. This is the case with most dealers. Possilbly I could see 1 hour due to it being a deisel. #2 Do you know what is involved in changeing an EGR valve on one of these? Not easy at all and I've got 15 years + under my belt at Chrysler.
  • I am not trying to bash dealers. I want to begin a learning process. I purchased the $90 manual (cd version). I have read the removal procedure. I called the dealer to ask about a code reader and they said I would have to go to Snap_on to buy one. Snap on site is showing a complex diag system. I was hoping for a hand held that would give decent info. My plan is to locate someone who has the EGR prob/ has read it at Autozone and knows what code the simple reader throws. If that matches, I will look into pulling my EGR and solenoid. The forums are filled with CRD owners having repeat probs from the EGR. I do not know if this is my trouble yet.
    #1. I need to know the free code (Autozone)
    #2 if a match I will find a EGR valve being thrown out or pull mine and determine why they go out.
    #3 I need a spare PCV or solenoid same story on clean and rebuild.
    #4I need to be able to reset my dash light.
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Posts: 115
    I'm not sure what you mean by matching the code. Do you have a code? You can get codes to display on your odometer by going key on-off-on-off-on. Then any P codes will be displayed in you odometer. If you can get the code or codes you have post them and I will let you know what they are. If you are looking for a cheap code reader I bought a 99.00 one from Mac tools that not only gives you codes and definitions but some basic engine data such as coolant temp, tps volts, O2 sensor volts, etc... I think Sears may also sell something similar.
  • I have a 2006 CRD with the check engine light staying on. I bought a code reader and got code P1263, Fuel Air Metering. I subscribed to AllData for my vehicle, but could not find this code. Any idea what this is and what to do about it?

    Janet
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Posts: 115
    Hi, I am a Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep technician. I looked up that code in Chryslers system and it does not exist. Your code reader may have a problem reading DTC's from the diesel engine controller.
  • Thanks. Can you recommend a code reader? I got an Actron CP9175.
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Posts: 115
    I usually am using a factory scan tool but I do own a MAC tools code reader that also gives some basic engine data such as coolant temp, tps, O2 volts, etc. That was about 100.00. Have you tried to go on-off-on-off-on with your ignition key and see if the codes show on your odometer. I can't say with 100% certainty that it will work on a CRD Liberty but it might. Again, let me know the code and i'll give you real Chryslere info on it.
  • I went to Autozone and the code is P1265. The text was " mfg control fuel air metering". I went to the dealer in my area. They seem to be having trouble finding the code. If anyone can make sense of this let me know.
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Posts: 115
    edited April 2010
    Hi, once again there is no such DTC as a P1265 for your vehicle. Any Chrysler deealer will have the scan tool needed to get the actual DTC out of your vehicle. If you just asked the dealer I can see why they are having trouble, I thimk you're gonne need to at least pay for diag (usually 1/2 hour) and get their code and diagnostic results then let me know and I'll give you some info and maybe you can fix it yourself. You never know.
  • I have an 03 Jeep Liberty and I need some help in evaluating what the problem is. About 6 months ago I had to replace the coil in #4 and all of the spark plugs. On 4/7 my water pump busted. I had a shop around my area fix it and I picked the car up on 4/8.

    On my way home w/ the car, I felt some slight hesitation after going about half a mile away from the shop and never exceeding 40 mph. On my way to work the next morning, 4/9, the car was still hesitating a tiny little bit. On my lunch break that day, I started to back out of my parking spot when the car started jerking so bad I thought it was going to give me whip lash and then the check engine light started blinking at me. The car wouldn't let me get over 15 mph on my way to the shop before it would start jerking and hopping. The mechanics were trying to tell me that I had gotten bad gas and put a gas treatment in it. I didn't like that explanation because I hadn't put any gas in the vehicle for a week, so I wouldn't leave until they test drove it to make sure the hopping and hesitation had stopped.

    As my luck would have it, the car ran fine for the mechanic. I jumped in the car to go back to work when I didn't even get to the end of the shop before it started jerking and hopping and then the check engine light came back on and was blinking at me. The mechanic at the shop hooked it up to the computer and got the code for a misfire in # 5 and #6. He put a new coil in the # 5 and drove it up and down the road a couple of times(he only had one coil in stock and that one seemed to have fixed it).

    I picked the car up that afternoon and only got 5 miles away before the darn thing did the exact same thing. I turned around and went straight back to the shop. The reading on the computer said a misfire in #5 and #6!?!?!?! The mechanic ordered another coil to put in the #6. The #6 was replaced on 4/12.

    When I went to pick the car up, it was running so rough and hesitating like crazy. The poor thing sounded like it was going to blow up. There was also a slight smell of raw fuel lingering around. I asked the mechanic to take out all of the spark plugs to make sure they were still okay. He ckecked them and they were fine, so he put them back in. I cranked the car and the rough idling/running was gone!?!?!?! The Jeep was purring like a kitten. It makes no sense!!!

    I drove it home and it had a little bit of skipping going on but nothing that I would be concerned about. The next day on my lunch break, I was trying to pull into my parking spot when it hesitated really bad and then the the light came back on (this time not flashing, just in case that matters). I called the mechanic so he could come up and pull the code...misfire #6... I drove the car 35 minutes down the road so Chrysler could take a look at it. The car never stalled, hesitated, jerked, etc... the whole way (I live in the mountains), but the check engine light stayed on. I am waiting on the service guys at the dealership to let me know something...

    Anyone got any ideas?
  • jensjeepjensjeep Posts: 3
    hello, i just thought i would put my input in on your issues... you should know you are not alone in this. i have an 02 limited liberty and has done that very thing. hours spent with a computer and different codes or messages reading malfunction. i'm hear to tell you after doing all of the same thing you have done... plug after plug and coil after coil... and still the same crap. grey smoke and flashing engine lights--sputtering and loss of power. after 3 days of trying everything we could think of-- bad gas/ injectors-- ect.. we made then thought we needed to rebuild the engine.. we bought all of the gaskets, rings, oil pump... EXPENSIVE PARTS I MIGHT ADD.

    my husband pulled the engine--- to only find a cylinder head with a huge hole- and one of the arms broke along with the pin. (the sputtering in the motor) (sorry if its not tech terms) oil in places it shouldn't have been. find out very quickly the cylinder heads for the liberty are also costly. :sick: i love my jeep-- i have not paid mine off yet- bought it used and has been the strongest thing i have ever had. bought it with 86k and now has 145k and in parts across the shop. makes me sick but have your jeep checked- before it gets to the point mine did.
  • jensjeepjensjeep Posts: 3
    :sick: :lemon: :cry: :mad: omg! all should be mindful of the sputtering and lack of power when your liberty is having issues. flashing engine lights-- grey smoke and the smell of raw gas.

    i know very little about auto parts but am learning very quickly!!! after reading all of these posts its like you all have taken the words out of my mouth! code after code after code--- parts, labor. its nuts!! Jeep/Chry should step up and RECALL!

    we opened my motor- cracked cylinder head. its not coils and plugs and it does not need a gas treatment like all the shops tell you. its your motor! there should be recalls on this issue we all are having. they suck the life and money out of you first. i hope rebuilding the engine will work...i really do love my jeep. i will never buy another one though. if not i'm patching the issue and getting rid of it as fast as i can.

    i'm lucky! my husband is now doing the labor- but the parts are so expensive- this jeep is 8yrs old- we should not be looking at rebuilt motors that cost $2,350.00 or more. a new motor is about $4,500.00. its a shame, because it's a nice vehicle.
  • Thanks for the reply! The dealership said that I had a valve that was sticking and a lot of carbon build up everywhere. I had the valve replaced and all the carbon cleaned off the engine. They said that mine was well on it's way to having the same problem as you listed above. So far, it's driving "normal" since I picked it up from the dealership. I think it's time for me to get rid of the darn thing. I'm not comfortable in it anymore. Good luck with your jeep :confuse:
  • jensjeepjensjeep Posts: 3
    so glad your jeep wasn't as bad as mine but i have kept up all the maintenance and is well kept. the engine is clean! oil is gold and nothing is torched. since my last post i have to tell you, not only the issues listed above but found the timing chain tention was plastic and broke into several little pieces. i'm with you, i no longer feel safe or comfortable in the liberty. its a money pit when it goes. i hope the rebuild will fix the problem but again.... i find myself looking for another little 4x4. good luck on a new find! :lemon:
  • fbuntingfbunting Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    I have had my Liberty since 2003 (i have 2002 model) and have never had any real problems with it until now. I moved from VA tto South texas in 2008 and live right on the Gulf of Mexico so the car is constantly exposed to salt water. I just had my entire exhaust system replaced as there were holes all up and down the thing from rust. I was so happy to have my car running quietly again. Two days after getting it back, my troubles began. While driving to work (25miles) I stopped at a gas station .5 miles from my destination and noticed a plume of smoke from under the hood. I popped the hood and there was water everywhere from the overflow. I refilled with coolant and went on my way. Obviously I knew this was a problem but had to get to work. On the way home that evening car held temp but had to put the heat on. Being a college student I am poor and drove the car with heat blasting for about a week and a half replacing water when need be (there were no visible leakes so dont know where water is going). Then the overheating became more rapid and I could no longer drive it more than 5 miles without overheating (at speeds over 65 mph) I had thermostat checked and was said to be fine. Water pump is working as it should and oil looks ok with no water intermixed,so I am assuming that rules out the head gaskett. OH, ALSO replaced the radiator cap.. Yesterday had the radiator flushed, and today car was bumping and stalling with engine light blinking. Took it to the shop and guy called and said that there were some misfire codes and that he was going to go back to the thermostat. Could misfire codes go back to a head gaskett problem? Im afraid this guy is going to try and rip me off for when I went in the first thing he told me was the head gaskett was prob dead. before even thinking of any other possibilties. I made it very clear to him that a head gaskett repair was not something I could afford right now and to just run the test and let me know. I just want to know if anyone else has had this happen with the strange slow overheat and stalling problem, let me know what was the deal. Or if you have ever heard anything like this. Even if it wasnt a Jeep. I have read these posts and am now scared that I am in some deep s*it with costly repairs that I cannot afford. This is my only vehicle and has done me good for quite some time. Couldnt have picked a worse time to leave me stranded. Any info will help....

    :cry: :sick: POOR STRANDED AND PANICKING IN CORPUS CHRISTI TEXAS :cry:
  • rreidtrreidt Posts: 15
    I have an '03 Liberty Limited 4x4 3.7 liter with 75 k mileage. My check engine light came on & I had it read at O'Reilly for free and the guy said it read "PO 432" or could be "P0432". Anyone know what this is for? He said may be related to oxygen sensor...? He said it would not hurt my Liberty to drive though. What should I do? :confuse:

    Any help & advice is appreciated. Thank you
  • rreidtrreidt Posts: 15
    What is this code? My engine light came on and this is what the guy at O'Reilly said the problem is. He thought it may be related to the oxygen sensor and /or catalytic convertor? What should I do?

    He reset it and light is now off. My Liberty is 4x4 3.7 liter.
  • demoman2demoman2 Posts: 2
    I wonder if anyone can tell me what these codes mean po401 says recirculation flow is insufficient? the other code is po299 says unidentified fuel air metering error? if anyone can help i will appreciate it.
  • sarah1389sarah1389 Posts: 3
    My check engine light showed up the other day and I took it to my local repair shop where they said a code came up that needed a Chrysler diagnostic to repair so they wrote me down the code to give to Chrysler
    "P1697-EMR (SRI) mileage not stored ? possibly PCM?"

    Does anyone know what that means they weren't sure and I was wondering if this is going to cost me a lot?

    I have been having issues with the car and a friend told me it was a wheel sensor. Sometimes when I brake the brak makes this weird pushing back feeling and makes a slight grinding noise that comes from the brake peddle. I also have an issue that if I go over a bump in the road the wheels quit moving and it take about 20seconds for then to kick on again no matter how many times I keep flooring the gas peddle.

    Is that all separate from the code? HELPPPPP
  • demoman2demoman2 Posts: 2
    wonder if anyone can tell me what these codes are p0401 said exhaust gas recirculation is insufficient? the other is p0299 and it said unidentified and air metering error? when it acts up i get hesitation then it will go but it will blow out black smoke. it will do that then again it will run fine. at appox. 47000 miles i replaced the egr valve wonder if it maybe bad agian. the meter i used was from murry,s parts store it said the egr was ok. any suggestions. thanks
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