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Jeep Liberty Problem Codes and TSBs

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Comments

  • Again, you don't have a fuel filter and the code in the odometer will start with a 'P' and then have 3 numbers following it. If you can't figure it out bring it to one of those auto parts stores that will scan DTC's for you. Let me know and maybe we can get you on the right track.
  • I am having the same problem with my wife's Jeep Liberty that is also a 2002. It will randomly die on her. None of the electrical systems shut down it is just the motor. the Heater and the radio and the lights all stay on. I have had the battery checked and the alternator checked and both were fine.
  • Well, we are in the process now of changing the fuel filter because it was really in bad condition so I am hoping that that is the issue...will keep you posted. My battery also checked out fine as well as the alternator so we will see. I have never had one problem with my jeep...love it to death so I am hoping that it is just a case of not maintaining my filters properly. :blush:
  • I'm sorry about saying your liberty didn't have a fuel filter. It does and it is located on top of the fuel tank. I really didn't even know it had one. I have been a Chrysler dealer mechanic for 15 years and I have never changed one. The recomended change interval is to change the filter if and when you need to replace the fuel pump. Almost no other Chrysler vehicles even have fuel filters anymore. When you said you were having it changed I looked it up in the service manual and to my surprise there it was. That being said it is probabally not going to fix your problem. Like I said I have never changed one and I have worked on Hundereds if not Thousands of Libertys over the years. I even own an '03 myself. (has 155K on it).
  • Hey, well here is the recent update. Apparently, I blew a cylinder...whatever that is... :cry: . They are running a diagnostic to see what else could possibly be wrong. My jeep only has 90000 miles on it and for the last 3 years i have driven barely 3000 miles a year on her. Luckily, i have someone who is handy and will fix it...but do you know how much parts for this will be? and anything else we should look for while we are at it. thanks!
  • That depends on what you mean by blown a cylinder. Did you crack a cylinder head? That's the most common issue that I guess could be considered a Blown Cylinder. Get more info!
  • jeeponjeepon Posts: 5
    to dasboot72

    Thanks you for your help, I replaced the part and the check engine light in out. I also have been traveling for work and have had an increase in the mpg back to the orig level. thanks you
  • I have the same issue on my 2005 liberty CRD.. This is not a fuel issue.. The stalling issue happens more frequently when it is warm outside. It typically only happens when bring the vehicle to the 1st stop following the starting of the vehicle. I feels like the transmission locks the torque converter up and stalls under the load. Once the vehicle is restarted the vehicle will run fine.. There is no code for this and the dealer will not do anything to fix the issue. I have been trying for years.. Transmission flush nor torque converter replacement will resolve the issue.. Best thing to do is sell the car.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,348
    In the logic of the vehicle you only get an error code when something unexpected happens once a pre defined condition is reached. Try shifting into Neutral just before applying the brakes; if this doesn't stall the engine I would guess there is a transmission fluid pressure sensing issue or a missing mechanical interlock signal from the hydraulic distributor (gear selector). In a more practical world I would start looking for a bad connection between the tranny, shifting solenoids and controller ;)
  • Hi, I am having some trouble with rough running at start up. I am wondering if I have the EGR trouble. Does any one know what error code is thrown by the "free" readers at autozone when a CRD is having EGR issues. I can see that the dealer will take me for a ride if I play the pay for read game. I would like to find a used "bad" EGR valve that I can tinker with to better understand this exhaust divert system. I also think there is a solenoid I need.
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Posts: 115
    #1 my dealer will only charge 1/2 hour labor for initital diag. This is the case with most dealers. Possilbly I could see 1 hour due to it being a deisel. #2 Do you know what is involved in changeing an EGR valve on one of these? Not easy at all and I've got 15 years + under my belt at Chrysler.
  • I am not trying to bash dealers. I want to begin a learning process. I purchased the $90 manual (cd version). I have read the removal procedure. I called the dealer to ask about a code reader and they said I would have to go to Snap_on to buy one. Snap on site is showing a complex diag system. I was hoping for a hand held that would give decent info. My plan is to locate someone who has the EGR prob/ has read it at Autozone and knows what code the simple reader throws. If that matches, I will look into pulling my EGR and solenoid. The forums are filled with CRD owners having repeat probs from the EGR. I do not know if this is my trouble yet.
    #1. I need to know the free code (Autozone)
    #2 if a match I will find a EGR valve being thrown out or pull mine and determine why they go out.
    #3 I need a spare PCV or solenoid same story on clean and rebuild.
    #4I need to be able to reset my dash light.
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Posts: 115
    I'm not sure what you mean by matching the code. Do you have a code? You can get codes to display on your odometer by going key on-off-on-off-on. Then any P codes will be displayed in you odometer. If you can get the code or codes you have post them and I will let you know what they are. If you are looking for a cheap code reader I bought a 99.00 one from Mac tools that not only gives you codes and definitions but some basic engine data such as coolant temp, tps volts, O2 sensor volts, etc... I think Sears may also sell something similar.
  • I have a 2006 CRD with the check engine light staying on. I bought a code reader and got code P1263, Fuel Air Metering. I subscribed to AllData for my vehicle, but could not find this code. Any idea what this is and what to do about it?

    Janet
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Posts: 115
    Hi, I am a Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep technician. I looked up that code in Chryslers system and it does not exist. Your code reader may have a problem reading DTC's from the diesel engine controller.
  • Thanks. Can you recommend a code reader? I got an Actron CP9175.
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Posts: 115
    I usually am using a factory scan tool but I do own a MAC tools code reader that also gives some basic engine data such as coolant temp, tps, O2 volts, etc. That was about 100.00. Have you tried to go on-off-on-off-on with your ignition key and see if the codes show on your odometer. I can't say with 100% certainty that it will work on a CRD Liberty but it might. Again, let me know the code and i'll give you real Chryslere info on it.
  • I went to Autozone and the code is P1265. The text was " mfg control fuel air metering". I went to the dealer in my area. They seem to be having trouble finding the code. If anyone can make sense of this let me know.
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Posts: 115
    edited April 2010
    Hi, once again there is no such DTC as a P1265 for your vehicle. Any Chrysler deealer will have the scan tool needed to get the actual DTC out of your vehicle. If you just asked the dealer I can see why they are having trouble, I thimk you're gonne need to at least pay for diag (usually 1/2 hour) and get their code and diagnostic results then let me know and I'll give you some info and maybe you can fix it yourself. You never know.
  • I have an 03 Jeep Liberty and I need some help in evaluating what the problem is. About 6 months ago I had to replace the coil in #4 and all of the spark plugs. On 4/7 my water pump busted. I had a shop around my area fix it and I picked the car up on 4/8.

    On my way home w/ the car, I felt some slight hesitation after going about half a mile away from the shop and never exceeding 40 mph. On my way to work the next morning, 4/9, the car was still hesitating a tiny little bit. On my lunch break that day, I started to back out of my parking spot when the car started jerking so bad I thought it was going to give me whip lash and then the check engine light started blinking at me. The car wouldn't let me get over 15 mph on my way to the shop before it would start jerking and hopping. The mechanics were trying to tell me that I had gotten bad gas and put a gas treatment in it. I didn't like that explanation because I hadn't put any gas in the vehicle for a week, so I wouldn't leave until they test drove it to make sure the hopping and hesitation had stopped.

    As my luck would have it, the car ran fine for the mechanic. I jumped in the car to go back to work when I didn't even get to the end of the shop before it started jerking and hopping and then the check engine light came back on and was blinking at me. The mechanic at the shop hooked it up to the computer and got the code for a misfire in # 5 and #6. He put a new coil in the # 5 and drove it up and down the road a couple of times(he only had one coil in stock and that one seemed to have fixed it).

    I picked the car up that afternoon and only got 5 miles away before the darn thing did the exact same thing. I turned around and went straight back to the shop. The reading on the computer said a misfire in #5 and #6!?!?!?! The mechanic ordered another coil to put in the #6. The #6 was replaced on 4/12.

    When I went to pick the car up, it was running so rough and hesitating like crazy. The poor thing sounded like it was going to blow up. There was also a slight smell of raw fuel lingering around. I asked the mechanic to take out all of the spark plugs to make sure they were still okay. He ckecked them and they were fine, so he put them back in. I cranked the car and the rough idling/running was gone!?!?!?! The Jeep was purring like a kitten. It makes no sense!!!

    I drove it home and it had a little bit of skipping going on but nothing that I would be concerned about. The next day on my lunch break, I was trying to pull into my parking spot when it hesitated really bad and then the the light came back on (this time not flashing, just in case that matters). I called the mechanic so he could come up and pull the code...misfire #6... I drove the car 35 minutes down the road so Chrysler could take a look at it. The car never stalled, hesitated, jerked, etc... the whole way (I live in the mountains), but the check engine light stayed on. I am waiting on the service guys at the dealership to let me know something...

    Anyone got any ideas?
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