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Jeep Liberty/Liberty Diesel Brakes

124

Comments

  • emp2emp2 Posts: 20
    Regarding break pedal fall away . I'm sorry I was not clear when I discribed the problem . The break pedal fall away I was addressing occurs when the vehicle is not moving as at a stop sign and without an excessive,but steady foot pressure.
    Emp2
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Typically, a master cylinder that is just starting to fail will allow the pedal to “fall away” slowly with just the weight of your foot until it goes to the floor. Then the pressure bleeds off and the car begins to roll away. However, if you step firmly on a failing master cylinder most of the time the added pressure will push the flexible cup out against the cylinder wall and it will hold the pressure as long as pushing firmly. Slack off on the pressure and it will fall away and the brakes release. This is not a hard and fast rule – just most of the time.

    I really liked the hard brake pedal on my old '95 GC. I don't like the idea if a mushy pedal where it's difficult to tell if brakes are working normally or failing. My personal opinion is that it should be unambiguous.
  • jr32jr32 Posts: 23
    HAHA... I just heard the same thing from my dealer. 06 Liberty, 18000 miles. I bring it in for a recall and oil change and the said it needs front and rear brakes and the roters are too rusty.... "was the vehicle sitting for a long time?" We can change them for just under $400. Not to mention I too had the heater motor only work on high. Cloth seats stain when literally a raindrop or drip of water gets on them.
  • My diesel Jeep Liberty is having issues with the brakes. I live in MT, we have tons of snow here. It only does this in the snow, so pretty sure thats the problem, but how do I fix it? The Jeep Dealer & tire shop will clean it out for me for under $50.
    Am hoping somebody has a "do it yourself" kinda thing.
    It has to sit out in the weather. Was thinking of sitting a heater by the tires, hoping this might work?!
    Ok the problem is, when go to stop, the brakes sound like there stuck/frozen, makes a noise & sounds like a sick cow. I tap them thinking that will help, but doesn't always work. Few days ago, it did this in town, I was going super slow, on a slick street, brakes didnt work..so was either hit the guy in front of me or aim for the giant snowbank, I kinda freaked and let go of steering wheel & thats where I ended up, about 1/2 way up on a snowbank. Only damage it did was break the front bumper in couple spots, no other damage.
    Any sugguestions greatly appreciated.
    Thanks!
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Jeepgirl05,

    The Jeep Dealer & tire shop will clean it out for me for under $50.

    I don’t understand, clean what out? You have 4-wheel disk brakes. The pistons that work the pads are pretty much sealed – but not invulnerable. You have small rear drums for the parking brake and that’s it. Are they just going to pull the Jeep inside until all the ice and snow melts off? Are you saying that your brakes did not work at all or your antilock brakes did not work and the wheels just locked up? (just FYI questions you need to answer for yourself) Antilock brakes on the Liberty make a vibrating, grating sound that could be heard as groaning. Antilock brakes can only do so much on glare ice.

    “Not invulnerable” means that something like jagged ice could possibly but unlikely damage a piston seal and cause corrosion in a brake piston leading to piston seize, but the other brakes would still work and the vehicle would pull to one direction.

    There has been a lot written on this forum about the rear brakes on the Liberty groaning and clunking. If I wash my Liberty in warm dry weather and run it into the garage without driving it, the next time I back out the rear brakes might groan/moan and clunk until the first application of the brakes. Sometimes in cool humid weather the same thing might happen the next time I drive out, although this hasn’t happened for a while. For some owners the problem was enough for their dealer to replace the rear pads and that seemed to cure the problem. I just ignore it because it never seems to affect stopping and is very temporary.

    If your antilock brakes actually did not work you need to get them repaired whether the vehicle is still under warrantee or not. Without access to the vehicle I can only speculate and someone else might speculate in a different direction. Good luck and stay safe.
  • Found the problem, there was a chunk of ice/snow mixture, stuck in near the front wheels, anyway its out now, so good to go. Had brakes checked there fine. :)
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Occam's Razor. A friend of mine was driving a '65 Mustang on the highway in just the right kind of snow that built up in the wheel wells until he lost his steering and went in the ditch. So what you really had was snowpacked wheel well(s) :blush:
  • yup, so it snowed alot more last night...will have the same problem again, ugh!
    Been setting a heater by the front wheels hoping to melt some of it off, it has to sit outside. Not fun
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    What I did was run a hot water pipe to my outdoor faucet. So when I come home with a ton of ice and snow under the wheel wells I can turn on the hot water and just wash it off before putting the Jeep in the garage. It also makes for better car washing on cool days.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,348
    To avoid packing the wells I just frequently turn my steering full left to full right when I am in heavy snow.
    I was once stuck because the power steering was not powerful enough to force the wheels to steer. Either the serpentine belt was slipping over the pulley or the overpressure. valve of the steering pump got mad at me.

    People put chains up front to widen their tracks and avoid ice forming around the steering tires. Even my new BFG T/A tires get caught in heavy snow. We usually think traction by the rear is important, but what a frustration not to have a steering wheel anymore :sick:

    When you drive a normal car you never dive so deep in the snow; you stall by looking at it.
  • wittsendwittsend Posts: 6
    The "Flaw" is the fact that the have started making the rotors thinner thus lighter for MPG. Which now they warp faster and are consumable instead of just having them resurfaced like you use to in the 70's and 80's.
  • I have taken my 2006 Liberty CRD in twice for a deep, grinding, almost moaning noise that comes from the front wheel wells on slow, hard turns (like in a parking garage). The first time, they told me it was my rear differential fluid (I kid you not) and this time they are telling me they don't hear it. I am not losing my mind - everyone in my parking garage at work is hearing this. My Libby has 41,000 miles. Any ideas on what might be causing this? I checked the power steering fluid, it's good and there are no leaks. There does not appear to be any obstructions in the wheel well that would cause the tire to rub against anything. I am at a loss on this one. Maybe some good anti-psychotic drugs will help with the noises I am hearing... (just kidding... really! LOL)
  • gmc11gmc11 Posts: 9
    Brakes went to the floor on hard emergency stop. Vehicle continued to roll nearly colliding with another vehicle. No brake fluid leaks were found. Dealer has stated that the problem is in the master cylinder or the boost module. Master cylinder was replaced and problem still exists. To check, with vehicle turned off, apply pressure to the brake pedal. If the pedal continues to the floor, there is a problem with your brakes! My dealer stated that they checked another Jeep Liberty diesel and its brakes did the same thing. It is important to know that the brakes work fine unless they are needed for a hard emergency stop. Has anyone else experienced this problem? I will post again once we know for sure what solves the problem.
  • We have a 2002 Liberty--zero problem vehicle until rear drums quit working. Front brakes lock up on ice, rear wheels keep pushing. Drums have been turned, drums have been replaced, shoes changed twice, proportioning valve checked, all done at my Chrysler dealer. After all this you can slip the vehicle into neutral on glare ice and the rear wheels will not lock up, by pulling on the "e" brake or braking hard. If you set the shoes up so the brakes grab some what, the drums over heat in a short distance. I have only paid for the original visit, given work is warrantee. I know they don't want to see me again.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,348
    It seems your brake linings are now too thin and this forces the automatic play limiters (brake shoe rests) to go beyond their normal range. When your drum brakes over heat rapidly this means the brake shoes become "self locking". When you open a brake drum, bring all cams and rests to their lowest position and measure the minimal diameter over the lining of the brake shoes. The drum diameter should be ~1/16"-1/8" larger than the linings. If you have a lot more play, this should be the problem.
    Otherwise look at the surface of the brake shoes: rubbing against the drum should occur in the middle, never at the tip where they are pushed by the receiver cylinder.
  • gmc11gmc11 Posts: 9
    Dealer has now replaced the master cylinder and the antilock brake control module. Brakes are doing the same thing. Pedal will go to the floor when steady pressure is applied. Dealer stated that they have now checked four Jeep Liberty Diesels and they all have this same symptom.
  • gmc11gmc11 Posts: 9
    I have a 2005 Liberty Diesel with the same problem. Dealer has replaced master cylinder and antilock brake control module so far and the same problem exists. They have given up and said it was normal. They have checked 4 other diesel Libertys and they all act the same way. I believe this is a serious problem and will continue to research this.
  • gmc11gmc11 Posts: 9
    Update: Check the pedal with no key in the ignition. Pedal is hard, does not fall away. Turn on the key, this energizes the antilock brake electronic module. Now pedal falls away. Problem must be in the electronic module (CAB) or in the wheel sensors. I will be going back to the dealer with this new information. Stay tuned.
  • I just got back from the dealer where I asked them to check the brakes. The car has 47k miles on the original brakes so I thought it was getting close. They told me the front needs immediate replacement and the rear has a few thousand miles to go. Then he told me that they won't replace just the pads anymore. They always replace the rotors at the same time, it comes in a kit. I really don't want to spend $700 for the front and rear brakes.

    Does this sound normal? What would be the harm in just replacing the pads?
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,348
    I had to pay 700 USD just for the front brakes (disks and pads), the labor was covered by the ball joint recall.
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