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Ford Focus Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • tread7081tread7081 Posts: 14
    Local shop has a few new transmissions. $1250 installed. 24month/24k mile warranty. I took it. Glad I did. I see the rebuild price.
  • dno36dno36 Posts: 71
    Now, I am not a mechanic, however, I play one on TV...LOL.

    Seriously, while not being positive, I do not believe that the bands could rub on the solenoids, as I believe they are not in close contact at all. How could 1 band rub on all the solenoids??

    Yes I have heard of bands breaking before, and there are a number of reasons one could break, but from rubbing on the solenoids??
  • car was jumping when going up hills thought conver was bad added a additive 2 days later have no overdrive 1st and 2nd and reverse works great but when it shifts from drive to overdrive it kicks out of gear i replaced the shift solenoid and trans fluid worked for about 10 miles and guess what no overdrive again i cleaned the filter and eveything i really need some help this is crazy would wrong trans fluid or a bad filter cause this
  • tread7081tread7081 Posts: 14
    I ended up just replacing my trans for $1250 (brand new installed). Solenoid "A" and "E" are the ones known to go bad.
  • dno36dno36 Posts: 71
    Did you get it scanned??
  • rcjetnrcjetn Posts: 1
    The dealer admits there is a slip from 2-3 when starting out cold, but says there is nothing to be done, that this is "inherent to this transmission model" and considers it to be a "normal characteristic of vehicle". 5 yr powertrain warranty runs out in less than a year. Don't know what to do, other than wait for the transmission to fail completely. AZ lemon law apparently will not help. Is there something I should be doing now?

    TIA

    Jack
  • tread7081tread7081 Posts: 14
    edited April 2011
    BS! They have to fix that! Pay a lawyer $100 to write a letter explaing they have to fix it. My old pops bought a new car and had trans issue. Dealers played that game too. He hired a lawyer...FREE. Only collected if he won. Which they did. Pops got back 2yrs of his payments, they took the car back. Like as if he never bought it.

    Don't settle for that BS. Make them fix it. Take it to another dealer. Or get a lawyer. NO OUT OF MONEY POCKET FOR LAWYER. The settlement includes lawyer fees. So dealer paid them.

    Good luck
  • numenanumena Posts: 3
    and tach rev up. It happens mostly at speeds above 55mph, and when it happens the whole car shudders. Once the car slows down a little bit it re-engages and acts like nothing was wrong. Its an automatic transmission. I recently had to replace a transmission solenoid when it wouldn't shift in to 3rd gear. I was hoping replacing that solenoid would solve the OD issue, but it didn't. I live in upstate NY where it is pretty mountainous, I can't be having this issue when trying to climb hills on the highway. Any help would be appreciated as for I've recently been laid off and can not afford to pay much for repairs. Thanks.
  • tread7081tread7081 Posts: 14
    Which solenoid? A or E?
  • numenanumena Posts: 3
    I replaced the "A" solenoid.
  • jcahoonjcahoon Posts: 1
    edited April 2011
    I have this same transmission RUMBLE problem as in message #209. It is louder when cold. It is louder with higher engine speed. A trans fluid changed helped a little but did not fix it. Any new info here? Thanks
  • jsaxon90jsaxon90 Posts: 1
    Hey guys, I'm having some major tranny problems right now. I bought the car used at 100k miles, and now it has a little over 150k on it. I haven't made any major repairs except a new thermostat housing. It is a 5 speed transmission and is a 2002 ZX3. It is very difficult to start off. I put it in first gear, and if I keep my wheel straight, no turning involved, it stays in gear much better, except on a hill or incline. But if it is a hill or if I have to turn and start off at the same time, it doesn't stay in gear, and I hear it grinding and having other loud noises. And even when I start off and get to cruising at 55 or 60 mph it still slips out of 5th gear making the same noises, but not NEAR as bad as when I'm starting off. Do I just need a new solenoid, is it my clutch and clutch plate,or do I need a new tranny? Help please!!!
  • kingnick213kingnick213 Posts: 12
    Its a common problem for the shift solenoid to go out on a focus, its usually shift A at 60k and then the rest go out after all the way up to 120k and beyond. I changed all my mine at 60k, got them from ebay for $140 and no problems since, A went out on mine but after research I just replaced all of them and its good so far. Its a very easy job :)
  • kingnick213kingnick213 Posts: 12
    edited May 2011
    Your clutch is going out, take it to a local shop and they should tell you that you just need a new clutch plate. Its around $200 to $300 depending on the labor at the shop, dealer your $600.
  • stuckathomestuckathome Posts: 2
    edited May 2011
    o/d off light was on, o/d button wouldn't work, car stayed in o/d off
    then light started flashing on and off and car began going in/out of o/d by itself

    idle seemed a bit odd just before this started

    coil was replaced last week
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    For some reason your O/D lockup clutch is either not engaging at all or is slipping when engaged. Additionally some vehicles will lock out O/D if the engine coolant temperature is to low, so you might have an intermittent coolant temperature sensor.
  • Thank you so much for your time. We took the actual shifter apart and secured the o/d button wiring. It did the trick! I'm back on the road and she's running smoothly.
  • tipdogtipdog Posts: 1
    Any updates? My car is having a very similar problem right now
  • flynn1011flynn1011 Posts: 2
    Going over rumble strips in construction zone on I-80. My car started to suddenly decelerate. I pulled off and noticed a lit up wrench on the dash. Book says this means "powertrain or transmission." Turned if off, then right back on. Light disappeared and car seemed fine, but I didn't trust it. Had it towed to dealership where I bought it. Ford to reimburse me. When mechanics plugged it into to computer, no codes showed. They drove it around and no lights came on and the car didn't slow. They're putting a flight simulator on it to take a picture if it does it again. Two dealerships assured me it's safe to drive and if it happens again I should do what I already did, except try to drive it again.
    Any ideas? Ford is being helpful and the dealership's mechanics seem trustworthy, but I'm very leery. The car's an automatic with 9800 miles.
  • Probably tranny fluid aeration from going over the rumble strips. Check the level and condition of your transmission fluid. Other than that, if they did all the necessary tests, you should be fine.
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