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Ford Focus Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • ed33935ed33935 Posts: 3
    Hello

    I will change the filter and report back, however after the procedure I had the codes checked again and now it is not showing any codes at all. It is still very slow to shift out of first and not wanting to shift up past 3rd (?). Should I change the fluid? I used (as suggested) the same fluid that came out.

    I will report back after the filter change. This may give someone a clue to their problem if the have similar experiences.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,021
    It could have been the connection, yes. The book suggests that as an exact reason for that code.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • dno36dno36 Posts: 71
    Using the fluid that originally came out of the trans is like reusing your dirty dishwater. It will work but.........I don't do either myself.

    What's the point... trying to save $15 in fluid?? Not trusting you bought the right fluid??
    Not trusting the manufacturer put the right fluid in the bottle??

    How much microscopic metallic material, and residue is in the fluid that is not caught by the filter. The old fluid looks dirty, because it is, just like your old dishwater.

    While the 3ish quarts you drop in a filter change is only a bit less than 1/2 the fluid, why go on the cheap here?? It is your choice.

    GL

    Dean.
  • dno36dno36 Posts: 71
    Hey Mr. Shiftright,

    Thanks for all your help here!! Much appreciated!!
    The "open" could be caused from a "loose" internal connection within the solenoid as well, correct. Maybe our Blue-Oval buddies got a deal on a few million AA's that have a higher-than-normal internal connection failure that doesn't short out to throw the 0750 code with loss of reverse, just the 4th gear neutral thing .

    Just an idea

    Dean.
  • edit188edit188 Posts: 2
    I also have 2 2002 Focus's with the 2liter single cam engine with automatic transmissions. This morning while getting on the highway the transmission failed to go into overdrive, reved the engine, I took the first exit, slowed and took off the overdrive, at this point the cars engine light was on but I was able to drive it and it seemed just fine going through all the gears, (except the overdrive) while the overdrive was turned off. I have read the post #76 and #110 about the code "750" and will be taking it to Auto Zone for a free code check. I will report back my findings but I truly believe those post named above have already pointed out my problems. Thanks for the great advice!

    Dave
  • edit188edit188 Posts: 2
    Well I got a code of "0750". My printout reads: Definition, shift solenoid "1" circuit condition, not "A" I'm assuming this is the same solenoid as in post 76 and 110 since is is code "0750". Could someone please let me know what they think is the solenoid "1" the same as "A"?

    Thanks,
    Dave :sick:
  • dno36dno36 Posts: 71
    Hey Dave,

    I do believe the "0750" code is a generic one according to the OBD2 web site. Here is the "official" list of the P075x codes I got from check-engine-light.com...:

    P0750 Shift Solenoid A Malfunction

    P0751 Shift Solenoid A Performance or Stuck Off

    P0752 Shift Solenoid A Stuck On

    P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical

    P0754 Shift Solenoid A Intermittent

    P0755 Shift Solenoid B Malfunction

    P0756 Shift Solenoid B Performance or Stuck Off

    P0757 Shift Solenoid B Stuck On

    P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical

    P0759 Shift Solenoid B Intermittent

    Being this is a generic code, as all of the codes that start with P0xxx are, I would think the "A" solenoid would be the proper call here. You may want to hunt some more around the web...

    Good Luck

    Dean.
  • yes drive the car through the front service ,window...and what dealership you take it to may be the problem......if it is under warranty then make them put a new one in..you paid for the warranty and you shouldn't be taking it back more then 2 different times .
    crossrunner ford motor employee
  • diynbc79diynbc79 Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Focus as well.

    I too followed all the steps for post #76 & #110.

    Just like you it solved my issue for dropping out of 3rd.

    I've even driven it 30-40 miles as suggested by auto zone and the Car Manual.

    But still no reverse!!

    Does anyone know why this might be happening???
  • dno36dno36 Posts: 71
    Did you take it to a facility and get the OBD2 scan done??

    If so, what were the exact readings??

    If there is no reverse, I would tend to think there would be an external connection issue possibility.

    With most of the "A" solenoid issues you find here, most of us did not lose reverse, we just had the "kick into neutral" thing.

    Make sure the wire that goes to the "A" clip, and the clip itself are in good order. Other than that you may have to dig deeper or may have a bigger issue.

    GL

    Dean.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,021
    Losing reverse is a listed *possible* symptom of a bad shift solenoid however.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • diynbc79diynbc79 Posts: 2
    I did take the Car originally to an Autozone and had the hand-held device hooked-up to it.

    My error code was the same as everyone elses P0705.

    The sysmptoms were identical to everyone elses, the neutral slipping-gear thing...

    Following the procedure from Post #110 fixed the problem perfectly and Car is now driving excellently.

    We were not even aware of the reverse issue until right before we started working on the car.

    Now as I shift the car into reverse Ifeel the Reverse Gear engaging but when we accelerate it drops into neutral just like it used to do in Drive at 32 mph before we replaced the solenoid.

    Since the repair, the Engine Light has turned off. Autozone claims that they cannot scan the Car if the engin light is not on.

    The only thing I can think of is perhaps we need more Trasaxle fluid??

    I have about 4 qts in there now, but Autozone says a full refill is 7 qts.

    What do you guys think???
  • dno36dno36 Posts: 71
    #1 - Check the fluid properly.

    2. How do you know how much fluid is in the car??

    3. I believe 7 qts is total capacity of the transmission, not a "refill" amount. Be very careful with adding fluid, do it slowly and keep checking the level as you add.

    4. My Autozone here in IL, will plug in their scanner and give me a history reading as well, even if the "light" is not on. Maybe yours will too.

    It does sound as if you may have a fluid level issue from your symptoms stated.
    Check and be careful.

    GL

    Dean.
  • markus5markus5 Posts: 102
    Does it make any sense at all to get this free codes check at auto zone if your transmission is free from symptons. I have an "04 with 67 k miles. It was factory serviced by my dealer at the recommended intervals.
    I have an extended warrantee. I wonder if it is better to just let it fail then to start in with maintenance that is not needed ? :confuse:
  • dno36dno36 Posts: 71
    Which post are you referring to Markus??

    D.
  • markus5markus5 Posts: 102
    D.
    My comment was not referencing any particular post but rather this last string of posts regarding diagnosing Transmission Failure. I know there are lots of points of view out there and even some old wives tales, ie., changing transmission fluid will cause more problems, and so forth.

    When I refer to a base-line diagnostic in the post, it is analygous to getting base lines as we get medical check-ups- all of these Diagnostics can sometimes result in recommendations for unnecessary medical procedures.

    When my 5 year Factory warrenty expired, I chose to keep the car and purchased an extension from the dealer, That is why perhaps, I have the luxury of being able to say "just let it fail completely."


    markus
  • We bought our car in July of 08. 2003 Ford Focus ZX3 at 55,000 miles and now in March we have about 68,000 (southern cali, all highway). Anyways in the past month we noticed the car was running different and then recently it got worse. In the morning's when it was really cold and we would not let it warm up once it got to 2nd it kicked and the orange o/d light turned on. I would have to pull over and wait for it to warm up to drive it again and the check engine light would be on. The poof in 3-4 days it would be off. Took it to a friend and plugged it in when the check engine light was on and poof it would go off.

    We took it to a Ford dealership (they had to replace the overfill tank too) with the check engine light on. They got two codes P0720 AND P0722. Told us we could replace the "output shaft speed sensor" or replace the transmission. They told us when they pulled the pin they found metal debris in the transmission. After being quoted to replace the transmission at .... $3900 we decided to take it elsewhere. Why would we put a new transmission in an 03 Ford?

    The new place we took it to FINALLY got the car to kick and see the problem. Now they are saying there is an internal transmission problem and an external electrical problem. Its been almost two weeks and no answers and nothing fixed. Plus this place is soooo NOT great at calling us back and I have no where else to turn.

    I have been reading this site for the past two weeks and I am hoping someone can provide some input.
  • dno36dno36 Posts: 71
    Hey POSOwner.....LOL.

    Just my 2-cents here.

    Pretty good description on the symptoms here, that helps a bunch!

    1. Almost anytime you open a transmission that has been driven awhile, and I would consider 68K miles awhile, you will find metal of some sort in the "pan"(I am assuming that's what you meant). Do not let that scare you.

    2. If it were me, with the trouble light going on-and-off, I would look to some kind of loose connection along the output sensor system.

    3. As far as the 1st transmission shop..$3,900.00........did that include the fully functioning car that it came out of?? There is not a maximum profit law that I know of, so a shop can charge about anything they feel, or, maybe they just can't do it efficiently, and need to charge accordingly.

    4. 2nd trans shop, external electrical sounds about right, and maybe the internal as well. If it were me, I would see how much the external electrical issue would cost to fix, maybe fix that 1st, and go from there. That may be the sole irritant to the trans operation. Even if not, it seems to be the most cost efficient way to go.

    GL

    D.
  • i am having a hard time finding a stage 1 clutch kit without a flywheel included. i bought a kit from summit racing,and it turned out to be the wrong one, but i didnt realize it untill after i bought a flywheel. all the kits that im finding have the flywheel included. anyone know where i can just get a clutch kit?
  • bones81bones81 Posts: 1
    I have a Ford Focus ZTS and the "OD is off" indicator light is on. It will not shift when trying to go +50. This is the only sympton. What could be causing this?

    Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,021
    Number of things. If the light is on, in the dash, it is telling you that 4th gear is being locked out by the computer (PCM). It might be a bad temperature sensor, which would refuse 4th gear if the trans were not hot enough.

    This is an electronically controlled transmission and you'll have to have the codes read to figure out what has failed. I don't think it is the OD switch itself.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • dno36dno36 Posts: 71
    Ditto to MSR post #146. Pull the codes.

    D.
  • fokuscofokusco Posts: 2
    I am having slipping probs that everyone is talking about except for the check engine light.... No lights but the tranny still slips... hmmm Prob not a solenoid eh?
  • dno36dno36 Posts: 71
    Have you checked the fluid level??

    If it's OK, then get the computer scanned free at one of your local major auto parts dealers.

    GL

    Dean.
  • fokuscofokusco Posts: 2
    Yeah, fluid is fine. It has been doing it since about 60k and it has 85k now. Took it in and had it looked at when I first noticed it and was told that "all is well."

    Was wondering if EVERYONE with the slip problems has the check engine light accompanying their troubles.

    I'll have computer scanned tomorrow..

    Thanks, I'll post with results soon as I get them.
  • The no reverse problem fixed by itself. One day I went to an open space and put the car in reverse and stepped on the gas, there was a big jolt and the car started going on reverse. After that, every time I tried to go on reverse I had to step on the brake pedal, wait for the sudden jolt and then release the brake pedal. I wasn’t happy, but at least it was going on reverse, and I was afraid that this new situation will end up breaking the transmission big time. So I gave up, and was waiting for it to happen, instead in a couple of weeks the sudden jolt started to become less noticeable until it was gone completely. Right now the transmission is working great.
  • mrx2930mrx2930 Posts: 2
    i have the same thing did you fix it yet ?
  • mrx2930mrx2930 Posts: 2
    :surprise: Cool thanks that leaves me some hope ! I can get it to go into reverse when I play with it so I’m going to try to reverse flush it right about now. :shades:
  • buffeebuffee Posts: 7
    Ok, so I only have 27,000 miles on this car. almost 5 years old, bought it brand new, very gently driven. Automatic! The first of the year..when the car was cold, it got stuck in drive....one time/never happened again. Last thursday got into the car after driving it all day, and when it shifted I noticed it was rather hard--normally I cannot hear or feel it shift. Minutes later the O/D off light flashes---GOOD GOD..I had to pull over, put on my glasses to read the manual.....once I retstrted the car, it was fine(I have since found out if you turn it off, then on again it restarts the "computer"...anyway took my car out for shopping on the weekend...drove it for about 3 hours, then all of a sudden at every single stop light...as I tried to go it got stuck in DRIVE---this happened at least 7 times, finally I got it home. I spoke to FORD(they really SUCK!!!) I was told they "never" have to service Focus transmissions(according to my mechanic friends, the ford focus trannys go at about 30,000) my own mechanic had told me at 23,000 to be prepared by 30,000 because he had done alot of them. FORD just won't stand by their cars....I mean it ONLY has 27,000 miles for God' sake. So I just got the call from the Transmission place(I dropped it off this morning) and he said they were going to replace the A Cylinoid, new filter, fluid etc....but he said there was quite a bit of "metal in the pan" which means it means "something is wearing internally" what BS---after 27,000. God I hate FORD!!!! but he said hopefully what they do will "buy" me another 10,000 miles or so....by next year I am dumping this car....& on top of the transmission I have to deal with this FRICKIN locking steering wheel.....I have an alarm.....why oh why do I have to have a locking steering wheel??????? :mad: :mad: :mad:
  • carolr94carolr94 Posts: 5
    I have a 2002 Ford Focus with 38 thousand miles I made the mistake of taking it to a Ford Dealer and they replaced the selenoid, over $500.00 it is still doing it they claim they do not know what is wrong now, I have talked to Ford several times and they are not admitting there is an issue with their transmissions.....one service manager in NH told me to sell the car quick, ...of course I cannot do that because it is wrong.............I am going to call the President of Ford person to person every day till I get to talk to him.......this is criminal... Ford knows there is an issue ...Now you know why they did not need bail out money from the American people because they do not stand by their cars.last FOrd I ever buy................
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