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Ford Focus Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • teejay3teejay3 Posts: 2
    OK, I'm replying to myself.I read post #76 (aokrongly) and did exactly what he gave instructions on. I went Advance Auto and they did the free plugin check ,no Auto Zone around.It read P0750 A. I ordered the part online from New Varsity Ford part XS4Z-7H148-AA ---A Solenoid. ($45.12). I bought a new tranny filter and 3 quarts of MerconV fluid and also a 5/16 socket $50.00,I misplace everything. It took almost 2 hours to do and cost just under a hundred $.I felt very confident while doing the job because of the great directions posted on this board. Ford wanted $127.00 just to read the code!! No more light on and the automatic really shifts through the gears smoothly. In a time when everyone is in your pocket for something ($$) everyone seems to only worry about themselves Post # 76 AOKRONGLY blessed us with his knowledge. Thank You
  • dno36dno36 Posts: 71
    Get the transmission scanned.
    Refer to prev posts for scanning help.
    Post back with found codes if needed.
    A scanner costs under $100 US on E-Bay.
    D.
  • hanifhanif Posts: 9
    Well, the solenoid E stuck open code was generated because inner parts wasn't producing enough pressure to operate the solenoid. I had Mr. Transmission rebuilt the transmission for $1600 with a 12 month 12, 000 mile warranty. They messed up my motor mount and the car is loud as hell due to the engine vibration. It's going to get replaced soon. The transmission shop mentioned a sunshine bell. I could have rebuilt it but my daughter want the car this year. I would have torn it down and finished it on my time which is not such a good thing for someone who is wanting for the car.
  • I've read all the posts and especially #76 gave me great hope of a cure. Unfortunately, I went to Auto Zone and they read NO fault code. All seemed great. Let me describe the problem. It's a 03 focus, auto.. I bought it used a couple of weeks ago with 82K miles. I have a "30 day 50% warranty" so I'm looking at about two weeks to go. I don't know if it's a 4 or 5 speed. I can't tell by listening to the shifting. 4th seems to "slide" into overdrive or whatever. Anyway......when starting out from a stop, or slowing for a speedbump, sharp turn or whatever, in first gear, when I let up on the accelerator, the transmission seems to go into neutral and the enging slows down, then when I go to accelerate, moderately, the enging speeds up and slams into first gear with quite a jolt and loud clunk noise that makes me think the whole thing will fall apart one day. It doesn't happen at each stop. Maybe once every 3rd or so. By the way, when driving straight away with normal acceleration, all works fine.

    Any suggestions?
  • dno36dno36 Posts: 71
    Gym,

    Have you checked the fluid level when hot??

    Does the car have the original trans?? Dealer probably won't help at all. Try anyway.

    How about going around a sharp curve, does the trans want to slip then??
    Find a parking lot and do a few low speed sharp turns each way and see what it does.

    D.
  • As far as I know, it's the original tranny. I did have it flushed and refilled at JiffyLube the other day. It didn't get worse, which is good. It seems that right turns upset it more than either straight or left, but it does happen in every direction. Also, now this might not mean a thing, but I did notice that with the right front tire off the ground, you can strike the tire with your hand & you'll hear a knocking sound from somewhere under the hood. Supposedly a mechanic and his son did this proceedure for "an hour" and couldn't locate the origin of the noise. Wierd. Also, you can take that same tire and turn it forward and backward and the tranny makes a knocking noise both ways but that same mechanic said that was normal for a front drive car. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll go find a parking lot.
  • OK, well I drove all over a parking lot and there was no slipping or anything like that. If I try hard, by letting off the gas before it goes into 2nd gear and reapply the gas, it still does the slam/bonk thing. Sounds like something is banging around under the hood but the mechanic swears everything is tight, etc. :confuse:
  • :mad: :lemon: 2005 5 speed Ford Focus ZX5, purchased 8-23-04 (today is 8-7-09) warranty to 100K, driving it and klumking noise starts. Take it to the shop replaces right axle as bearings were bad. Get in to drive home......still making same klunking sound. Take back to shop.....can't find anything wrong with it....sending to transmission shop......transmission guy pulls apart finds 3 bad bearings. Car mileage dispalys 101.2K miles. Speak to salesman...nothing can be done. He talks to Manager of service, nothing can be done. Ask to speak with Dealership owner.....he will not do anything to help.

    DON'T BUY A FORD FOCUS UNLESS YOU ARE GOING TO GET RID OF IT BEFORE 100K MILES!!!!!!!!!!
  • Well, to add to my aforementioned problems, I was driving at 55mph today and the transmission slam/downshifted and I had to peal my nose off the windshield, not really, but it stayed there and eventually shifted back to 4th gear. At the next stop light the engine died and all the warning lights came on. It started back up and so far all is like before. Do you guys think $600 (the dealer is paying the other $600)that's $1200 installed, to replace the tranny with a 19K mile used one is a good deal? They say I'll get a two year warranty with it.....any guesses??
  • dno36dno36 Posts: 71
    Gym,

    As far as the symptoms go.....eeek.

    The deal proposed by the dealer is a fair one if all the details are correct.
    It will probably cost him $100-$200 for the used trans, and then labor for install.
    A 2-year warranty in writing would be a better-than-normal addition if the warranty is on paper and reputable. Check the warranty details 2x.

    GL

    Dean.
  • fguy44fguy44 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 ford focus with a 4f27e tranny that was rebuilt by a back yard tech who forgot to fill the t converter. can it be filled without removing the tranny?
  • dmeecedmeece Posts: 4
    Hi everyone, my daughter has a 2003 Focus ZTS 4dr. sedan AUTO and is having trouble with the car overreving and not dropping down. She has problems with it wanting to stall out when pressing the gas from a stop in drive or reverse; the check engine light is also on. In checking that problem I discovered that it slow is not shifting smoothly form 1st to 2nd and does not seem to shift to 4th or overdrive. I honestly cannot tell if it shifts after hitting 3rd. At 55mph it is tached at 3000rpm and that obviously increases as the speed increases.

    Has anyone ran into this before? I am planning on getting the transmission fluid flushed and changed but I don't know how long that will be.
  • I had almost the same problems with my 2005 ZXS 5 door MANUAL....has 101K on it and it was the transmission.....not yet out of warranty by date....only by miles and it was a manual transmission. The transmission was jsut repalced and I don;t even have it back yet.....expensive car to maintain for a relatively inexpensive car. :( :mad:
  • I also have a 2003 focus SE, and tranni is doing the same thing, had the car scanned and it shows P0761 shift solenoid "C" performance or stock off, called ford and they don't know which solenoid is "C", tranni has 6 solenoids 3 are the same, 2 are also the same and the 6th is a different one, in other words there are 3 diff. solonoids but they couldn't tell me which one is "C", if you find our please let me know, i'm driving the car the way it is because i took it to 3 different trasnsmission shops and was quoted 600.00 w/out warranty to just replace the bad solonoid, 1450.00 for rebuilt w/6mo warranty and 2700.00 at amco w/3yr. warranty. Please let me know what you find out. carvaz4611 this is for hotmail or "Y". thanks.
  • dno36dno36 Posts: 71
    Get your computer scanned for free and post back the results.
    D.
  • dno36dno36 Posts: 71
    If you have a manual it will NOT be doing the same thing as an automatic, similar but different.
    Vitrually no electronics in a manual vs. lots in the automatic.
    Sounds like a clutch issue to me.
    I am not familiar with Focus Clutches, however I would think either:
    1. Worn or shined clutch or pressure plate.
    2. Clutch out of adjustment, either cable or linkage.

    Don't let a shop tell you there are no adjustments, just check them.

    BTW - Get the engine scanned just for safes sake and post back.

    GL
    D.
  • dno36dno36 Posts: 71
    There are a couple of posts here that diagram which solenoid is which.
    On my '02 I know the "A" is middle passenger side, and that's all I know.

    Search posts for solenoid diagrams and you should be OK.

    Also check a couple online site for the diagram as well. Can't remember where I found it, if I do I'll post back.

    GL
    D.
  • kcigarckcigarc Posts: 1
    I have been having the same issue w/ my 02 zx5 (slipping out of drive) then the other day my transaxle light comes on (still driving the vehicle) i get off my exit and it will not move, after shutting the vehicle off and restarting it i realize it will not go into any gear??? my question is could it be the solenoid or is the tranni shot? or something else, i am having my guy who rebuilds focus's run the diagnostics on it to see what codes come up. any advice on where to go would help, thanks.
  • dno36dno36 Posts: 71
    You do not need a "special-guy" to get codes!!
    Just take it to a major parts house and they will do it for FREE!!!
    Then post back what codes, if any, they tell you are on your cars computer.
    (o;
    D.
  • Hey Everyone~

    I've read most of the posts, some great advice here. I have an issue I have seen brought up a time or two but not seen a resolution anywhere. It's an '04 wagon SE 2.0 with dual overhead, auto tranny. I have always performed all service myself, in a timely manner. The car has almost 120K on it, still get 25 to 30 MPG, a mix of highway and city miles. I have no slip or drop in the tranny, only rough shift ever was when tranny due for servicing. When the car is cranked cold, the colder the ambient air temp the worse the symptom, the car has a heavy vibration almost sounding like a grinding or rumble it is so distinct. No error lights ever, no codes either. I will call it a vibration as it is felt very much, intensifies in reverse, almost disappears in neutral, and is less in drive. It has been going on for about 3000 miles, overall symptoms lessened when I did a fluid and filter change 10, 000 miles early. The vibration lessened for a few days, then has returned on a more sporadic basis. When you go over a speedbump while engine is not very warm, the vibration turns into a harsh impulse type groan/grind. All vibration/noise disappears at highway speeds or after 20 - 30 minutes of driving. They seem to be staying around longer though here of late. I have cleaned the mass airflow sensor, checked pulleys, belts....argh.

    External electric issue is something I have thought about. Since the car hit appro 85K - 90K there has been an issue with the instrument control panel. The speedometer, temp gauge, and fuel level gauges work sporadically; sometimes twitching erradically or sticking in the topped out position. All the 'idiot' lights work fine. I have tested and replaced fuses, relays, sending units and gauges to no benefit. Car also has the craziest habit of blowing the left rear tail light....a lot....

    Any input is greatly appreciated...hell, if your advice works and you're in the ATL area I'll buy ya a beer!
  • dno36dno36 Posts: 71
    Just my 2 cents. It sounds as if the rumble is related to the viscosity of the trans fluid or a thermo sensor related to the trans.
    Are you super-sure you have the proper fluid in it, and there is not tooo much fluid?

    The light blowing and the gauges.....eeek. Intermittent electrical is one of the worst to find, however...if that entire cluster twitches, I would think the issue would be either the connector for that cluster or in the power source that feeds it.
    One time my dash light would flicker a bit and then I kept blowing the minivan fuse that ran my dash panel lights. I found the problem was in my trailer wiring harness had worn through in the back and was shorting out causing me to lose dash and running lights.
    GL Dean
  • See post # 165 for my first entry about this issue.

    Back in May, I had a new Jarvis tranny put in a 2005 Focus with about 89K miles. on it. The original transmission failed about 12K miles after the car experienced numerous, strange electrical problems.

    I continue to have transmission problems and am about to take the car back to the garage for the third time. The car runs fine for a day or so. Then shifitng becomes very rough. The OD light flashes and the "check engine " light comes on. Codes show a heat sensor on the tranny keeps blowing. Last time it also showed a bad ground in the left tail light. Garage has already replaced sensor twice and thoroughly cleaned the ground connection. What else could be causing this to happen?

    The strange electrical prolems from last year included a blown alternator, anti-theft fuse that blew, and a seemingly good battery rather suddenly turning into one that held no charge. All through these issues, the battery idiot light never came on although I had it tested and it is working.

    Any ideas, anyone?????
  • I have been using Castrol Trans fluid for high milage transmissions, it is a Merc V fluid. I have checked, re-checked, and re-re-checked fluid levels numerous times. I have thought the issues were with internal lubrication not being sufficient but have not been able to figure out a solution. I thought perhaps it might be an issue with a solenoid or valve body but not sure where to begin to check that. It has been hard finding good repair literature, especially when it comes to dealing with the tranny. Any suggestions on where to get a good manual for tranny repair for this car?

    Thanks~
    Fred
  • dno36dno36 Posts: 71
    Hey Fred,
    We all feel your pain.
    Internal lube doesn't sound like the issue here, while I am not sure if the '04 & '02 trannys are the same, the same basic issues apply.
    If it were a solenoid, it should show up when you have the codes scanned.
    Maybe the dash-electrical issue effects the scanning of the computer??
    How many times have you had it scanned?
    Are you sure it was a good scan?
    Getting a repair manual for the tranny.....my only idea would either be a "Haynes" type manual or go online and see if someone offers a better one there.
    GL
    Dean.
  • fuzzy46fuzzy46 Posts: 3
    I'm trying to find an AZ or AA in my (New York) area that will read my transmission codes. Any I've contacted claim they can only do it if the check engine light is on. Is this true?

    While I don't have a light, I do have the banging/clunking up and down shifting between third and fourth that some seem to have described in this forum. I'm trying to find out what's up.

    Any other places to try besides AZ or AA for the codes?

    Thanks.
  • Yes, check engine light has to be "ON", scanner only diagnoses when the light comes on, it sounds like hard parts or possibly a bearing in the transmission broke, you don't say wether auto or stick.
  • yes it can, pour 3 qts of fluid wait about 5 min. pur 1 more qt then start the engine, leave in park, let engine idle about 5 min addd another qt. drive the car around the block, put car in reverse with the brake on for a minute or so. put car back in park check fluid level, should read about a quart low fill to mark and you're set, just had mine done and that's the way the tranni shop did it.
  • Try EBAY, you need to know which tranni you have, there should be a sticker on the oil pan and on the top of the tranni but it's hard to see. There are listings for rebuilt valve bodies also anywhere from 75.00 to 200.00 depending on the trans. Good luck
  • I have an 03 ford focus zx3. it's a vin 3, 2.0 DOHC. My problem is this, The car will not go into gear while the car is on. While the car is off, It'll go into all gears just fine. If for example i put the car into first gear while the car is off, then start the car, while keeping my foot on the clutch, the car wants to move forward but will not stall. At first i thought it was the clutch, but i've owned 4 manual transmission cars, and i've had the clutch wear out on almost all of them. The clutch on my focus has showed no signs of slipping, or any other problems for that matter. I noticed about 2 to 3 days prior to the car not moving at all an odd shake in the clutch pedal, and i can't quite remember, but i think it may have popped itself out of gear once. i have heard from several different people several different possibilities. i've heard pretty much everything from the clutch to the master and or slave cylinder, to the syncros in the transmission. Upon inspection tonight, i found that there is a small white piece of plastic that is attatched to the clutch pedal. not quite sure what it is or what it's called so bear with me here, but it's pretty much a plunger assembly. it moves with the clutch pedal and pushes into a black rubber plunger i guess.... at any rate, the black rubber is attatched to hydraulic lines that go to the brake fluid resevoir (*sp?). when you depress the clutch and release it, you can see small amounts of brake fluid coming out from the black rubber. So i'm wondering if i'm not having a problem with hydraulic pressure considering this is a hydraulic clutch (at least i think so from what i've been told). i'm absolutely clueless as to what to do and so are my friends. i don't have a whole lot of money (which is why it's been sitting for almost 2 months), so i don't want to put the money into anything unless i'm almost positive it will be a sure fix. any recommendations will be tremendously appreciated. :sick:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,990
    Oh yeah, this sounds exactly like a hydraulic clutch system problem.

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