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Ford Focus Electrical and Lighting Problems

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Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,986
    Well I've been looking at the wiring diagram here, and I'm wondering if you tried disconnecting either the driver master adjusting switch or the passenger one. Maybe the switches are the problem in this circuit? You might also look for any signs of burning or melting.

    That's a 25 amp fuse that's blowing. That suggests a pretty obvious dead short somewhere---a live wire directly to ground.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    Unplug master switch, mounted on drivers door panel, turn on ign and see if fuse blows again. If it does not blow, you have a bad master switch, but you may also have a high amp draw in the driver's door window circuit, causing the switch to short out.
    hope this helps
    Cliff
  • olebikerolebiker Posts: 3
    Thanks! Will try the above and see what happens.
  • jdeitz66jdeitz66 Posts: 3
    The gauge keep going dead in the car. Battery was replaced and the alternator also was replaced. Any suggestions? I know a couple of people this has happened to. We live in Florida any place I can check for maybe corrosion problems?
  • jdeitz66jdeitz66 Posts: 3
    The gauge keep going dead in the car. Battery was replaced and the alternator also was replaced. Any suggestions? I know a couple of people this has happened to. We live in Florida any place I can check for maybe corrosion problems?
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    What Gauge ? All Gauges ? If all gauges, does the car start and run ok ? Was the battery and alt known to be bad or was this a guess ?
  • Same problem, different questioner. 2003 SVT Focus. Gauges affected in my case are tach, speedo, oil, etc. Idiot lights appear normal, but who knows. Handbrake indicator OK. All other electricals (radio, wipers, hatch, doorlocks, etc) OK. Glitch is transient, but dealer wants to replace entire instrument cluster.
  • olebikerolebiker Posts: 3
    Tried first disconnecting driver side switch, fuse blew. Tried disconnecting both driver and passenger side switches, still blew. I see in the schematic a "one touch relay". Could this relay be bad and where is it?
    Thanks
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    This relay is located INSIDE the driver's door. about 10-12 " from driver's door master switch, it is held to door panel with push connector. should be about 20-24" from bottom of door and 10 " from front of door.Check the relay connector for water intrusion and any sign of it turning green at contacts. ( not a common problem )

    Now check to see what other acc are on that same fuse, it may not be a PW problem.
    hope this helps
    Cliff
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    Ford hade a problem with inst cluster gauges. you may be able to remove cluster and lightly sand the electrical contacts where the looms plug in. if not, you MAY have to replace your cluster
  • Thanks, oldformech.
  • jdeitz66jdeitz66 Posts: 3
    Mine seem to be the same as poster crokett. This is the second time this has happened and once the battery and alt were replaced it worked fine for about 6 months then started acting up once again.The battery and alt I was told seem to be fine. Still being told by one guy it sounds like it maybe a ground isue but he cant tell me where to start looking.
  • I'm not the original one that asked that question, but kind of the same thing happened to me. My 01 Ford Focus got stuck in park and you can't get it out when putting your foot on the brake (you can do the manual override though on the shifter column). But also the other things that are not working too are no brake lights, no wipers, no heater blower, no power windows, no cruise, no headlights, but running lights and power locks and radio still all work. I check all the fuses and replace the brake light switch. Please help me with any ideas of what might be wrong.
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    I'll try. Get a 12 volt test light, Check for 12 V on both sides if fuses. There should be fuses in a box under hood. Follow heavy gage RED wire from battery pos cable, make sure ALL fuses test good. Then go to fuse box inside and do the same with the key in run pos. Check for 12 V on 1 side of brake light switch plug on.. 1 side should be hot at all times. If not,and all fuses test good, drop your steering column down and test for power in and out of switch.Turn key to run pos and test for 12 V out of switch.
    Hope this helps
    Cliff
  • jmill12jmill12 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 ford focus that i just replaced the engine for less than three months ago. on my way to work, i lost all power-no hazards, no radio, no wipers, nothing. its done this before. sometimes itll start up again in a few minutes. no luck this time. two weeks ago i took it in and my mechanic cleaned and tightened grounding connections.this time when i turned the key all i got was tick tick ticking sound that sounded like it was coming from somewhere under the left side of the dashboard. i had it towed back home. when the tow guy drops the car, the blinkers are on. lo and behold, the car starts. the guy said sounds like other groundings could be loose. so frustrated. any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    Check battery voltage when this happens with a digital volt meter. If battery shows over 12 volts while you get this clicking noise . Have your battery load tested with a carbon pile load tester. It should hold 9.6 volts for 15 seconds with a load of twice your cold cranking amps applied with load tester.

    If battery and all cables are clean & tight, I would starting looking at the IGN switch, located on the lower half of your steering column.

    Make SURE you have a GOOD body ground. If in doubt, run a new 10GA wire from battery ground post to a clean metal (SCRAPE PAINT) on body sheet metal on firewall.

    Let me know what you find.
    Cliff
  • whitey9whitey9 Posts: 138
    edited April 2010
    My daughter's 2004 ZTS keeps having its' alternator "burn up". Not with flames, but the interior of the alternator "melts down" and smells really, really bad. While she is driving the car, the batt light comes on, then the ABS light, then anything electrical goes haywire ( radio/wipers ), and then the engine stalls ( dies ) and cannot be restarted. The battery is completely drained. Jump-starting the car works, but when the jumper cables are disconnected, the engine dies immediately.
    To prevent a breakdown, I had previously tested the original battery on the 45K mi/31//2yr-old car and found it to be "weak', so I replaced it. Then 3mos later the alternator "burned up" while driving. The car started normally that morn, but then 2 blocks down the street, the engine died and could not be restarted. The above symptoms were evident. Now, we have had maybe as many as 4 alternators put on it in 2 different trips to the repair shop. 3 times that I know of, the alternator has "burned up". These are supposedly remanufactured genuine "Ford" alternators.
    There are just 2 wiring connections with no chance of error when reconnecting. The first replacement alternator lasted some 20K mi/1yr. But during that replacement, the shop needed 2 additional alternators to get the car "out the door". 1 was deemed to be "bad", the other was "incorrect", the 3rd one worked for a year. Then the other day the same symptoms - batt light on, ABS light on, slow wipers, then dead batt/no restart. We towed it in and when I went to start it to leave after the batt was charged/checked, and the alternator was replaced - a strange whirring noise followed by noxious smoke arising from the alternator area. The tech pulled the car back in and told me the alternator was again 'burned up". We bought the car new, and it has never been wrecked. The wiring at the alternator looks good, and checks good with an ohmeter, and cannot really be "crossed". There are no odd owner-installed add-ons to tax the electrical system. I can find no other posts with this type of problem. Other than this electrical problem the car has been without faults since July '04/64K mi. Can anyone out there offer me any insight as to what may be the source of this frustrating problem? Please?
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    I would say you may have have a ground problem, just a guess.
    1.st. I would find an Advance Auto Parts. 2. I would buy a NEW alt which has a
    LIFETIME warranty. 3. buy a cheap digital volt/amp meter. 4. have your battery charged and load tested with carbon pile tester. apply 2 times the cold cranking amps to the battery while reading battery voltage. It must hold 9.6 volts for 15 sec.if not replace the battery. 5. Moniter battery voltage while running, at NO time should it exceed 14.2 volts.

    If your voltage goes over this for any time it can cook the battery and cause all kinds of havic. Hopefully it did not cook your inst. cluster.

    Get this dine and let me know what you found out
    Cliff
  • whitey9whitey9 Posts: 138
    edited April 2010
    That is what I was thinking ( ground problem ). Many, many years ago, I left the braided ground strap off of a transmission when I replaced the starter ring gear. When I started the engine, the alternator smoked itself to death in a hurry. I NEVER made that mistake again!
    The alternator on my daughter's car mounts directly to the engine block. There is a ground strap from the engine to the R-H frame rail. I checked it for tightness, corrosion, and a good, clean ground. The battery grounds at the other-side-of-the-car ( L-H ) frame rail. It checks out good as well. I still think there is a faulty ground somewhere. Thank you for your help. I am an old M-B mech.
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    What you went over sounds good, also check the end of ground cable from batt to eng block, make sure it's clean & tight.
    After you find out voltage when running, let me know.
    ALSO - You can load test the ground circuit and pos. cable with a carbon pile load tester. You should NOT have over 1/2 volt drop in ground side or 1/2 volt drop in pos. battery cable.
    Stay in touch
    Cliff
  • hughihughi Posts: 3
    My 01 Ford Focus with 94000miles has until now been totally problem free but recently it has started to loose power to the lights, heater, wipers etc....
    I've been scrawling through loads of the answers & suggestions to the problem on here but have yet to find one that was a CONFIRMED repairer of the problem!!!
    The battery is perfect, fuses are good, earths are fine & even after the car recently got laid up for over 3wks in an airport carpark, it still started first time so am presuming alternator has to be charging the battery sufficiently!!!
    Any help or advice that HAS succeeded to date would be much appreciated????
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    Sounds like your problem is in your IGN SWITCH or loose,or burned wiring at ign sw plug-in. This switch is located on the top side of your steering column, under dash. Remove lower panel, below steering column. you will find 4 nuts holding S.C.
    to dash, lower down column, the ign sw wiring is held to the sw w/an 8mm bolt. the sw is mounted to yhe column w/2 10 or 11mm nuts. Lift switch up and pay attention to where the rod from the key goes into sw. Your problem is most likely the switch.

    Good Luck;
    Cliff
  • hughihughi Posts: 3
    Hiya Cliff.....as am new to this site, I just wanted to double check with you that your post #338 was in fact meant for me & my focus post #337, better safe than sorry before I start to examine the ignition switch.
    Much appreciated, Hugh.
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    I received your e-mail, and YES the IGN repair was ment for you on your post #337
    Cliff
  • wspriggswspriggs Posts: 1
    Headlights work like normal DRL , However a ford focus does not have these!! The car was hit in the front end and drivers airbag deployed, I replaced bag and had module reset. There were no elec. damage to this car! I know this car was a rental car prior to purchase could they have installed DRL??? I checked the relays under the hood theychange nothing! The last ansewer was to check the stalk switch! What is a stalk switch??? Or a possiblepinched wire in the column!! None of these conditons fixed it!!
  • muttbunchmuttbunch Posts: 1
    Hey All:

    Recently I replaced my altenator/battery to discover the original alt was fine. Lights began flickering, instrument panel, headlights, etc. So I did some digging around the altenator area and determined same as described earlier, corroded red wire off the pig tail.

    Here's the kicker, I replaced the pigtail, not trimming the wires, just leaving them as is, hooked them up one-by-one to the corresponding wires matched on pins 1, 2 and 3. It solved the flickering, however, now, the lights surge, or pulsate rather and it's quite annoying. I took it to the dealership and they cannot seem to figure out what it is.

    Basically, at idle, even driving at a steady RPM, you can see the all of the lights, instrument, headlights and all, kind of pulsate like a heartbeat. Dim/Bright/Dim/Bright. Any suggestions?

    Thanks!
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    Check battery voltage at the battery, with a digital volt meter, if it go up & down at stesdy eng speed, I would say to reinstall you old alt and retry.
  • kaben55kaben55 Posts: 1
    Did anyone ever resolve this problem? I am having the exact same issue with my 2000 focus. Everything works except for dash, licesne plate, parking, and buzzer. Also the fog lights will not work in the parking light setting on switch. I switched the relays and all fuses I could find associated. I swapped out the switch with a used one, but still has same symptoms. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • bgobronbgobron Posts: 1
    Dear Piglover,

    I am having the problem that you had i.e. the trunk on my station wagon opens when I start the car and press the brake. It first occurred last Friday night; then went away later that night. I had a Ford dealer look at it Saturday and they could not find a problem.
    Today, Sunday, it has reoccurred. How did you get the problem resolved?

    Sincerely,

    weg
  • I too had my clutch replaced and shortly thereafter began having issue with my electrical on my 2000 Ford Focus SE The dash board gauges go all sorts of crazy and the lights flicker and eventually go out . However I can get them to return for 10-15 seconds if I flick the high beams and/or the turn signal. Additionally when I brake I'm able to get back the dash lights and the gauges; they then will return to their appropriate places for the same amount of time. Upon turning off the car I'm garaunteed to just get clicking noises and dancing gauges on my next attempt to start my car radio and the clock also have these same issues. Please send back any info. your Ford dealer provided to you so i can share it with my mechanic. ">Anyone else care to respond?
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