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Ford Focus Electrical and Lighting Problems

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Comments

  • gaborsgabors Posts: 5
    Hey!Can i use those popular digital multimeters(cost about 10$-15$) is it gonna do the same job ?Thanks!
  • If i used the multimeter well,the drainage is 2.5 amp .After i pulled out all the fuses and relay (motor side,passenger side) the only change was at the main power sup. (#7)fuse ,droped to 1.2 amp.when i pulled out.Look like the alternator?Could i get a bad one when i changed the alternator last time?Thank you guys!
  • You bet you could have a bad alt. Disconnect the red batt wire from the alt, and check your drain at the battery. If you have a draw of 2.5 AMPS that will draw out 25 Amps in 10 hrs. now you see how fast a batt runs down. You should not have over 1/2 AMP draw. Make sure your key is in your pocket, all doors closed,and hood light bulb disconnected.
  • terryxbterryxb Posts: 2
    Well, my brakes lights stay on whenever they feel like it. Most of the the time they get stuck on after 30 minutes or so. This is only when car is running and in gear ( auto trans ) Will not do it if car is in park or ignition key on. Only when engine is running. It did happen one time after 10 minutes of driving, but only once.This started about two months ago, at that time I started replacing parts. I've read every single post involving the brakelight/hazard problem. I've also read literally 100's on other forums with no resolution. The 2000-01 Focus is the only year that uses the hazard switch to also work the brake lights, tails only not the 3rd brake light. I the stop light switch twice, no change. I have used three different hazard switches, problem returns no matter which one I use. One is factory original, one less then a year old, and one brand new. All are Ford parts, no aftermarket. So those two items are fine. I completely disassembled all the rear wiring and cleaned all contacts and grounds, no change. Not a fuse problem because I do have working brake lights most of the time. Check wiring going into hatch, peeled back rubber boot and repaired any exposed wires. This is quite common in the Focus hatch, so that's the first thing I did. No change. The directionals will flash when lights are stuck on until last night. I went for a 30-40 minute ride and the lights got stuck. I can see the glow from my side mirrors, of course only at night. I never know during the day. The only way to shut them off is to unplug the hazard switch, but that's only cutting the power source. If I wait for 15-20 minutes and plug it back in they will stay off. The switch does get warm but that's because the lights are on, it stays cool when lights not stuck. Back to last night. When I got the car home I put it in neutral and tried the turn signals. I put the right turn on and the left side was blinking. WTF ! I got out and checked, the lights were flashing like a school bus. Each side flashing opposite of the other. Is something heating up after awhile ? I have no clue. This year Focus does not have a separate flasher unit that I could try. It's all through the hazard switch.
    New stop light switch(2)=nothing
    New hazard switch(3)=nothing
    Hatch wiring repaired=nothing
    New multifunction switch=nothing
    All fuses good
  • chirpschirps Posts: 3
    Okay, here's the problem. I purchased a 2003 Focus wagon in FL and drove it back to NY. As I drove up, no problems except a bad tire. I never stopped for more than three hours and never had a problem starting up the car. I get back to NY and park in the street overnight, the next morning I had some difficulty starting the car, real slow turning over like a weak battery. It kicked over and I pulled it into the driveway (running a little rough). Three days later I came back and it barely started. I ran it highway speed for about 45 min. When I arrived home, it started up no problem. It sits for two days, and today it turned over very weakly and didn't start. The battery is 3 yo (8/06) and is presently charging in the basement. What steps should I take to diagnose the problem, i.e. what are the likely problems and what order should I proceed in.

    I was thinking
    1) Charge battery overnight / take it to a local shop to have them check it, replace if necessary.
    2) Since the battery is only 3 years old it seems unlikely that the battery is the only problem. Once I check / replace the battery, I should check the charging system. If the charging system isn't the problem, then I can narrow it down to a bad battery / short in wiring.
    3) If the charging system is bad, the culprit is either the alternator or the wiring. I can remove the alternator and have them check it. If the alternator checks OK then it must be wiring from the alternator to batt.

    What I'm trying to do is avoid replacing the battery & having the "new" battery die like the old one and like others have had on this thread. Tips, Tricks?

    Thanks in advance
    Sam
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    AFTER U CHARGE BATTERY, hAVE IT LOAD TESTED, IT SHOULD HOLD 9.6VOLTS FOR 15 SEC. WHEN LOADED TO 1/2 THE RATED CAP. OF THE BATTERY. A BATTERY THAT IS 3 YEARS OLD COULD WELL BE BAD IF IT WAS A CHEAP BATT TO BEGIN WITH. MAKE SURE YOUR CABLES ARE ( CLEAN AND TIGHT ON BOTH ENDS.
  • chirpschirps Posts: 3
    okay, suppose the battery is bad. I presume you mean check the cables on the alternator side and the positive battery terminal + negative battery terminal + negative ground are tight. Once these are tight, should I just assume the alternator is okay? Any tips for further testing to make sure the new battery doesn't get killed by some other fluke in the system? I'll post after I get results back from the battery test. Just to add the battery is a Diehard Gold. Personally I like interstate MT.
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    A diehard gold should be good, after u have a known good battery installed,to test the alt, get a digital volt meter. your alt should put out 14.2 volts at 1000 rpm with your lights,heater,and wipers on, or pretty close to 14 volts. if it does that then your alt is ok. let me know what u find.
  • chirpschirps Posts: 3
    Turned out to be a bad battery after all. Put in a new battery and everything seems to be ok. There is one other small problem. As I turn the wheel (more pronounced with lower speeds), as it moves back to center there's a little back and forth movement that I feel. Tie-rods? Ball Joints? Axles? Any tips on how to diag. would be great.
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    HOW MANY MILES ON YOUR CAR? TO TEST TIE RODS, JACK UP 1 FT WHEEL , GRAB THE TIRE AT THE FRONT & BACK AND ROCK IT BACK & FORTH. IF U HAVE ANY PLAY,HAVE SOMEONE ROCK THE WHEEL WHILE U LOOK AT THE TIE-ROD END FOR PLAY.( TO REPLACE,REMOVE COTTER KEY,THEN NUT, THEN LOOSEN JAM NUT ON TIE-ROD.NOW SMACK THE DOG-P--- OUT OF THE SPINDLE WHERE THE TIE ROD GOES THROUGH IT. IT WILL POP LOOSE, COUNT THE # OF TURNS IT TAKES TO REMOVE OLD END AND REINSTALL NEW ONE THE SAME # OF TURNS -- ABOUT A 10 MIN. JOB )
    DO THE SAME WITH THE OTHER FT.WHEEL.
    GOOD LUUCK-LET ME KNOW
  • I have a 2000 ford focus and for bout 4 or 5 months now, the back tail,brake and signal lights dont work.And the hazard lights stay on. I have had 5 different people look at it and no one can it me whats wrong with it. I have had the bulbs replaced, fuses changed, new signal switches. They still dont work. If no one can help me PLEASE email me back at sprice82@hotmail.com PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE someone help me.
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    I WORKED AS A FORD TECH BACK IN 2000, WE HAD A FORD CAMPAIGN TO REPLACE THE WIRING LOOM THAT RUNS FROM THE UPPER LEFT CONNECTOR , INSIDE TRUNK, RUNS THROUGH THE TRUNK LID, TO THE LIC.PLATE LIGHTS AND BACKUP LIGHTS, IT WOULD RUB AND SHORT OUT INSIDE TRUNK LID, CHECK W/FORD AND SEE IF THIS WAS EVER DONE TO YOUR CAR.
  • paul2777paul2777 Posts: 1
    Hi all, I have a 2002 Ford Focus which I've had now for almost 5 years. A week ago I noticed that my drivers side tail lamp was not working yet the brake light worked fine. I replaced the bulb and checked all the fuses. The fuses were fine and I replaced the bulb anyway. The problem still persists. The passenger side works fine with both tail and brake lights working as normal. Now on the drivers side the dipped headlight ( again on the drivers side ) has failed which seems strange/odd as its on the same side ( drivers side ) as the failing tail light. Hope anyone can help. Regards Paul
  • scottjnscottjn Posts: 4
    Hello. I am having a problem with my 2000 Focus ZTS. It will very often when idling (in park or drive) or when coming to a stop die on me. It has no problem starting back up. When driving at higher speeds (>20 mph) it will often miss badly. I had this problem before and the dealer fixed it by fixing some ground wires (they didn't say which ones). They've since gone out of business and I would like to try to fix it myself. Any ideas which ground wires I should be looking for? Thanks!
  • purchased this 2005 Focus used in 2007. Was great for the first year-plus and I put about 55K miles on the car. Then I started having auto-electric issues (which are chronicled elsewhere on this thread: battery died mysteriously, anti-theft fuse blew and shut the car down, alternator went up).

    A couple weeks ago, the transmission acted up. Shifted rough, and didn't feel like it was getting out of second. The O/D OFF light started flashing. Took it to a reputable garage who said tranny was shot.. I gulped and put down 3K for a new Jarvis transmission.

    It ran great for about three days. Then it started shifting rough again. Check Engine light came on and the O/D light flashed again. Went back to the garage and they ran the diagnostic codes. Two things came up. One was a possible bad ground in a tail light that will cause the tranny to malfunction. The other was a heat sensor in the transmission that would do the same thing if bad. The garage narrowed it down to the sensor and replaced it (it was under the Jarvis warranty).

    I picked the car up this morning and drove it today with no problem. Tonight? Same thing again. Rough shifts, O/D light is flashing. So, I'm taking it back in the AM. I wonder if the electric problems - which were never really explained - aren't related to the same source as this problem. If there is a bad ground in the tail light, could it have caused all these issues? A bad ground elswhere? Anyone have an experience/opinion???
  • hadjie_21hadjie_21 Posts: 1
    Hey guys! i have 2006 ford focus hatchback and my simple problem is that the cigarette lighter is not working and i dont know how to fix it.. can anyone help me... thanks a lot...
  • pclnpcln Posts: 1
    The temperature gauge of my 2000 Ford focus se wagon goes to red when I drive in slow traffic in the city. Once the traffic moves or when I get on the highway the temp. gauge goes back to normal. What should I do? Do I need to change the fan, radiator or the sensor etc.?
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    test for 12 volts at fan plug in with a test light, with eng running hot, if you have 12 volts but fan not running, replace fan assy.
    let me know if you don't understand this
    Cliff
  • flash103flash103 Posts: 1
    I'm trying to see if there are any responses to the question of the cigarette lighter
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    OK Pay Attn;

    Do u have any other thing that runs off 12 volts ( phone charger,dvd player.work light, ect ? ) if u do, see if any of yhese work in cig outlet, if they do then u have a bad heater elem. the part u light your cig with. if they don't work u have 1 of 2 pos problems. 1. a bad fuse, test with a 12 volt test light. if all fueses test good, reach behind lighter outlet,unplug pigtail ( it pushes on ) stick your test light into this pigtail end, it should light,if it does, unscrew the back of thr lighter outlet, it's like a can that screws onto another smaller can, replace with new socket. if u do all this and u need more help just shout. Cliff
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