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Ford Focus Electrical and Lighting Problems

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  • charley954charley954 Posts: 1
    edited October 2013
    Brakes lights stay on whenever they feel like it. Most of the the time they get stuck on after 10 seconds. This is only when car is running and in D, 1,2, N or R ( auto trans ) Will not do it if car is in park or ignition key on. Only when engine is running. This started about two weeks ago, and I started replacing parts. I've read lots of posts involving the brake light/hazard problem and chewed up or chafed wiring in tail gate. Several too about the 3rd brake light. I've also read literally 100's on other forums with no resolution. The 2000-01 Focus is the only year that uses the hazard switch to also work the brake lights, tails only not the 3rd brake light. I changed the stop light switch twice, no change. I have used two different hazard switches, problem returns no matter which one I use. One less then a year old, and one brand new. All are Ford parts, no aftermarket. So those two items are fine. Not a fuse problem because I do have working brake lights when in park. Check wiring going into hatch, peeled back rubber boot and checked any exposed wires. This is quite common in the Focus hatch, so that's the first thing I did. No change. The directional's will flash when lights are stuck on until last night. I went for a 30-40 minute ride and the lights got stuck. I can see the glow from my side mirrors, of course only at night. I never know during the day. The only way to shut them off is to unplug the hazard switch, but that's only cutting the power source. If I wait for 15-20 minutes and plug it back in they will stay off. The switch does get warm but that's because the lights are on, it stays cool when lights not stuck. Back to last night. When I got the car home I put it in neutral and tried the turn signals. I put the right turn on and the left side was blinking. WTF ! I got out and checked, the lights were flashing like a school bus. Each side flashing opposite of the other. Is something heating up after awhile ? I have no clue. This year Focus does not have a separate flasher unit that I could try. It's all through the hazard switch.
    New stop light switch(2)=nothing
    New hazard switch(3)=nothing
    Hatch wiring repaired=nothing
    New multifunction switch=nothing
    All fuses good
  • acoustimacacoustimac Posts: 1
    edited October 2013
    My left rear park light stopped working. Have checked fuses and changed the bulb (original was good). Put a meter in the socket and no power. Checked wire all the way to fuse box and no power. Here is the weird part. When the car is on, light switch is off and I activate the rear defrost the park lights front and rear come on on the left side. Turn the defrost off and they go out.

    This is for a 2005 ZX5 SE. Any suggestions?
  • haulthault Posts: 124
    I had an original 2000 Focus. My son now drives it. I have followed the posts since day 1. I never encountered the rear light issue. I read it had something to do with the wiring along the trunk lid getting pinched and damaged. Perhaps a good electrical shop could check and repair the wiring. Good luck!
  • I agree, probably pinched wire some where. Or possibly a short where around the fuse box since it is possible that the defrost is having some effect on it.

    I have been driving a 2000 focus lx for a few years now and have had a lot of problems big and small. I had never encountered an electrical issue yet besides fuses or hooking up an aftermarket cd player.
  • Your best bet is to just completely trace the wiring from power source to switch to the bulbs. Its gotta be a short somewhere.
  • Did you ever figure out what the problem was? I'm having the same clicking noise coming from under the dash and it will shut off my radio and dim my lights and it has even shut my car off. Any advice would be great! Thanks.
  • Ok, so I have an '03 focus and we figured out the electrical problems. On the sedans they have electrical problems with positive battery cables, wire going from.altenator, and numerous dash wires. The clicking is from your switch that stops the vehicle from going into gear from reverse. These switches can get problems in them if you have ever spilled in the gear shifter. But most likely it is from a short in the cable leaving your altenator. That is what cause all of our problems. Now if you have a hatchback the issue will be where the electric connector going down to the lights. It gets pinched and causes a short. In the end we saved the most time by taking the vehicle to a Ford dealer and paying $250 for a diagnostic & replacement of the wire. It sounds like a lot but it was a whole lot cheaper than the $1200 we spent trying to replace parts.
  • 2000focusgal2000focusgal Posts: 1
    edited December 2013
    I realize that you posted this almost 2 yrs ago.
    I see that no one ever answered you.
    My car is just now doing exactly the same thing as you have accurately described.
    Can you tell me what ever came about on yours or did you end up dumping the car?
    Any help is appreciated.
    Thanks!
  • power101power101 Posts: 6
    edited December 2013
    I will tell you that the focus with the 2.0 and SOHC 4 cylinder is the worst car for problems that Ford makes in my opinion.

    Unless you trouble shoot this problem yourself, you may be looking at up to a grand in labor and diagnostics.

    If I was you, I would stop driving this car immediately to stop putting miles on it and sell it for what ever you can get for it.

    If you decide to keep the car then I can tell you that this electrical issue is just the beginning of the problems.
  • jcs88jcs88 Posts: 1
    Did you figure out what was going on with your headlights? I'm having the same issue with mine on my 02 focus.
  • wytkidwytkid Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 ford focus 2.0 split port engine code (P). Ive had the battery replaced several times and aftet 4-5 days the car won't start like the battery is dead give it a jump start and it fires right up... take it and have a battery tester put on it and the volts are good but the CCA have dropped down in to the double digits... put a brand new battery in it and have all the test ran on it (starter, alternator,etc..) they come back fine... a few days later the problem comes back. Can any help me please...
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,911

    The parts are all fine, but a new battery is draining, so there has to be a short to ground somewhere. To find out where the short is all you need is a simple 12 volt test light (You can find them for as little as $5 online) Here's a YouTube vid showing how to track down where the short is.

    It could be something as simple as a wire that has been rubbing against something since the car was new and finally wore through and is now making contact with the body somewhere.

    Keep us posted on your progress!

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