Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Ford Focus Electrical and Lighting Problems



  • I would be interested in knowing what it was that was causing this problem, as my 02 Focus SE is doing the same thing.

  • Sorry Chris,
    After much frustration I got rid of the car. I loved the car as it was fun to drive and ok on mpg's but she just did' :cry: nt treat me right. Good Luck!
    Oh and by the way, no more Fords for this guy.......
  • katlee23katlee23 Posts: 2
    Did this fix your problem when you started driving it? We took our Focus (ame problems) to the dealer who said it needs a new tranmission--may as well get a new car--but I'd love to fix it with a new instrument cluster.
  • katlee23katlee23 Posts: 2
    Do you know if this (instrument cluster) solved corbryant's problems? We had same symptoms, took it to dealer who said it needed a new tranny--may as well start looking for a new car.
  • corbryantcorbryant Posts: 7
    Well, yes and no. I promise you it's not a trans, so don't waste that kind of money. Replace the transmission shift sensor and it should resolve the shifting problem. The cluster didn't fix the other problem, which was flickering headlights and insturments -- it's still doint that, and the dealership has had it twice - the frist time they said the alternator was bad (even though it charged 14.2 with me testing it) so my roomate shelled out $500 for a new one (that damn thing is EXPENSIV compared to other alternators) and a month later it started up again but it was only the 2nd or 3rd time she'd driven the car. Took it back to the dealership and they charged her another $75 to tell her they didn't know what it was. I was pretty pissed about that, so I went up there and damn sure left with her $75 in my hands. (F$&@#@^ ripoff crooks) FY everyone's I don't do business with (no names) any FORD dealerships that may happen to be in the vicinity of I-20 and Collins in Arlington. =)

    I'd try replacing that shift sensor my man. Her's doesn't jump out of gear anymore. It was failing like that WAY before it popped the code too, so you may have no codes and that thing is bad. GO Ford. =)
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    Ck the main red wire for any sign if corrosion (GREEN POWER) at the plug in at the alt.
    Also, make sure BOTH ends of your battery Neg & Pos cables are CLEAN & TIGHT.
  • This is happening to my 2006 Ford Focus. Did you ever figure it out?
  • Make sure your battery cables are are CLEAN & TIGHT on BOTH ends, Check the red wire to your alt for any sign of corrosion where it plugs into alt and correct.
    Check battery with a cheap digital volt meter ( $5.00 at Harbour Freight ) It should read 11.5 -
    12,00 V. with every shut off, and 14.2 - 14.5 V when running at about 1000 RPM.
    If it goes 15V replace the alt with a Good brand of alt. Motorcraft or NAPA.
  • fordevrfordevr Posts: 2
    I have a Ford Focus 2007 and its security alert light keeps blinking whenever the car is not running. I've checked all the seatbelts and the seats and made sure they are proper secure and in the right order whenever I lock it.

    Does anybody know why the light keeps blinking? I'm afraid it could effect my car battery,could this be possible?

    Pls advice.
  • markus5markus5 Posts: 102
    mine has been blinking since Nov. '03. Still on original Battery. I believe it (the flashing) indicates that the security system is energised, which should be what you want.
  • fordevrfordevr Posts: 2
    hmm really i didnt notice tht when i bought my car back in 2008, i guess i have to pay alil more attention lol.

    I'm concern that there could be an electrical short but if that's the case then its kool.
  • My headlights went out while I was driving down the road and then they came back on, what causes this? Also, my auto door locks and spedomoter will quit working at the same time and then come back on by themselves, what causes this?
  • Check your battery voltage with the eng running, it should be 14-14.5 Volts
    Make sure BOTH end of battery cables are clean and tight. Also check red wire at the alt, for any sign of corrosion.

    Let me know what you find.
  • bwoods120bwoods120 Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    A few months back while driving my ECM fuse blew and my car died, I got it towed home replaced the fuse and the car fired right up but blew again while I was driving, that was a few months ago and I haven't had the time or patience to fix it, plus I have no clue what it wrong, I'm guessing a chaffed wire that's blowing the fuse, also my battery light stays on constantly, please help, it's on a 2003 focus coupe ZTS, I'll try pretty much anything, key word there is TRY.....Thanks in advance
  • Greetings,
    I drive a 2001 ZTS. I've got an odd problem: I can't get my accessories to work most of the time. By accessories I mean my air conditioning/heat, power windows, windshield wipers, brake lights, or gear shifter. However, my headlights, interior lights, gauges and radio always work.

    If I sit there and flip the ignition to the "accessory" position enough (without actually cranking the car), sometimes it will eventually come on. But lately it hasn't been working at all. The fact that it will intermittently work leads me to think it's not a fuse, all though I haven't checked them.

    I would assume I'm either having some issue with the ignition switch, or there's some sort of wiring problem. Any help would be appreciated. Not only am I riding dangerously with no brake lights or windshield wipers, it's also just miserably hot!!
  • Well your right about the fuse, the problem does sound like your IGN switch or the wiring plugin to the switch.
    You can drop your steering column which is usually held to the dash with 4 nuts on studs. You may need to remove a trim panel under the steerimg column. After dropping the steering column, you should see the ign sw mounted on the top of column with 2 - 10mm nuts, pay CLOSE attn. where the rod from the cly & key goes into the ign sw. DO NOT MOVE KEY. Check the wiring connector on top of sw for any sign of burning, if found you will have to replace. NAPA or a Ford dealer should have this part. If OK replace the Switch, If wiring connector needs replaced, repl sw also.
  • Have you found out what the problem is burning up alternators? I have a 2005 Ford Focus SE that I bought several years ago with 34,000 miles on it and now have 80,000. Recently the electrical started acting up doing pretty much all the weird things everybody else has described. Won't start but jumpstarts fine. Can drive it a few days no problem and then goes to acting up again. Had the alternator changed about a month ago and seemed ok for a few weeks and back to the same problem again. This is the second autozone alternator. Mechanic at NAPA has no idea other then to put a new more expensive 130 amp alternator on it for around $500 but I am afraid to invest that kind of money if I am going to have the same problem again. Seems many people are having this issue with their focuses but not really too many solutions. Mechanics today are weak in their troubleshooting skills and rely on computer codes that don't always correctly tell you what the problem is. They usually want to replace the alternator or the battery then after that its "I don't know" and they say we can't figure it out. Something is causing the alternators to burn up.
  • I have a 2005 Ford Focus station wagon. Last year the right tail light went out. When I went to have it fixed, I was told I had to buy the whole tail light assembly because the heat from the bulb and/or wiring had melted it. It cost us $300+ for the part and labor at a Ford Dealer. Now, the left tail light has gone out. I go to the mechanic and it's the same issue I had last year with the other light. While there, he checked the right one for me (I had NOT mentioned the prior problem) and he says it's about to melt too!!! Seriously, I cannot afford to replace both of these entire tail lights every year at $300 a pop per light. Does anyone know if there is a recall on this? This seems like some really bad design or something that the lights keep "melting." The new assembly for the right tail light was just put in last year and it's already "almost melted"? That is crazy.
  • achowardachoward Posts: 3
    edited September 2011
    I have a 05 Ford Focus ZX5 hatchback manual with 83,xxx kms. Lately iv been having alot of issues with starting the car and my headlights dont turn on automatically anymore.

    The starting issues arnt all the time but are more often than not. Ill turn the key and it will sound like its trying to start but either no fuel is getting to the engine or no spark. I have to turn it back off and try again several times before it will start. Odd thing is that even tho it is fuel injection if i pump the pedal it will start or if i leave it trying to start for a few seconds it will stutter then start. Iv done an engine clean with seafoam and dont use cheap gas.

    The headlights are supposed to come on when the accessories do, but mine dont tend to anymore. I have to drive with my highway lights on if im driving at night and other drivers dont appreciate being blinded. I replaced the bulbs and it still happens. ill have to either turn the car off and on several times to maybe get them to work or sometimes (rarely) they will come on (or off if they were on) if i go over a bump. im hoping its not a break in the wire.

    Could the two issues be connected?
  • I have a 2005 Ford Focus in the repair shop right now for an alternator problem. Our problems started about two months ago with the car acting up not starting, or when idling the dash goes crazy with lights going bright or weak and various electrical components not working such as headlights, radio, ect. We replaced the alternator for the 3rd time with another autozone warranty alternator and it lasted about two weeks. The NAPA repair facility thinks it is due to cheaply made autozone alternators and we are now installing a good quality Bosh alternator which was about $330. The battery was replaced last year. I had them check the pigtail connector to the alternator as other post I had read had found that the inside of the pigtail had serious corrosion in it that can create high resistance and poor grounding connection with the alternator and end up causing diodes inside the alternator to fail and burn up your battery. The diodes are responsible for converting the current from A/C to D/C and there are six of them in sets of two. He said the diodes are the most common thing to fail inside the altrnator and casing huge fluctuations in the current to the battery and the car wiring. We are picking up the car tomorrow and I will post back how everything goes over the weekend since this is a company vehicle we use a lot. It has 80,000 miles on it. So, this is alternator 4 in a year but the first highend one so we will see if that makes a difference plus it will now be under NAPA warranty if it fails.
Sign In or Register to comment.