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Pontiac Grand Prix Climate Control/AC

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Comments

  • mmxermmxer Posts: 12
    My 95 does this. I beleave its suspose to to keep power up. Only does it when I really gun it. Personally I like it. my old car the AC would drain massive power (4c) with [non-permissible content removed] acceleration, no problem with this car.
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    One of your vacuum lines is bad. In this year it's common for the line that runs by the battery and down to the vacuum reserve tank to get rubbed through.

    Take the battery out, and look for a fairly thin, hard plastic line. Should run by the battery and down to a ball-shaped tank under the driver's side front end of the car. Follow along it's complete path up through the engine bay. If that's not it, look around engine at other vacuum lines and you should find a bad one. Local auto parts will sell you new line.
  • n8ten97n8ten97 Posts: 3
    I appreciate your help bxd! Il check it out and let you know the results. -n8ten97
  • kreiderkreider Posts: 3
    I did fix this problem with a new temperature sensor - it only cost 7 bucks at the dealership, but took some time to find under the front bumper in one of the air intakes for cooling the radiator, totally out of sight. You can find it by sticking your hand in the intake and feeling around with your palm pointed up, it's connected to the bumper with one of those goofy plastic barbed pins that allow for easy insertion, forceful removal. Worked great for about 3 months, now the AC just doesn't cool yet again, and it isn't the sensor since that still works.
  • kreiderkreider Posts: 3
    Sounds like this may be a compressor issue. It isn't the exterior temperature sensor this time. Any ideas?
  • knepskiknepski Posts: 2
    I recently started noticing this porblem in my '99 GT also. On a recent trip about 3 hours in I noticed the temp reading 68 on a 103 degree day and the AC would blow cool air but not cold. Normally the AC blows really cold air and I rarely run it down on 60 for more than a couple of minutes. I noticed that as I went down hills the sensor tended to correct itself and the AC would blow cold again until I started the next hill climb then the external temp would drop down to 68 again. This happened about 5 or 6 times and eventually it stayed on 68. That was a week ago and now it's on 54 consistently. I'll try the sensor swap and see what happens.
  • Hi,

    I am brand new to this site and read a few threads before I decided to ask my question. I have a '97 Grand Prix GT with a manual control AC System. It has been in the shop three times in the last two weeks and after a few hundred dollars, the AC still is not cold. The shop said the control panel was bad, so I replaced it but this didn't solve the problem. They have stated it is full of freon, everything turns on, but it doesn't get cold.

    Does anyone have any ideas on what to check? I fixed the problem of it blowing out the heater, defrost and dash at the same time. The vacuum hose had come loose under the washer fluid reservoir. This works right now, it switches from max to normal AC, the clutch engages on the compressor, switches to heat, defrost, etc....you can move the temp switch from cold to hot and it gets hotter, just won't get cold.....

    I would appreciate any suggestions.

    Thanks!
  • Hi, I'm new to this site and I thought that it would be very helpful in helping figure out whats wrong with my blower. My blower only works #5 and not 1-4. What could possibly be the problem?
  • i put freeon in my car it was working fine untill the next day it was blowing hot air
  • I have a 98 GT w/ dual climate control, when I lower the temperature below 74 degrees I hear a squeaking noise like a flapper is trying to close but its jammed. It continues trying to close (squeaking) until I raise the temp above 74 degrees. Anyone have this problem? Anyone know where I can get a diagram of the climate control system?
  • Hello,

    I have the exact same problem. Mine is a 1998 GTP with 200K miles. It has been a pretty good car overall, I bought it new.

    I will detail the problems: It has a totally electronic climate control system. There is no cable control valves for heater core that I know of... It also has dual climate control.

    When the AC is on and it is running in single mode operation the driver's side vents blow out warm air. The air temperature doesn't seem to change until the set point for the auto AC is around 82 degrees. Meanwhile, the passenger side is blow cooler air. This is while the unit is in single mode. Switching to dual mode and setting the passenger side to 60 does not seem to change anything.

    I was thinking about getting a junk yard climate control module but since the first guy that made this posting tried it and it didn't fix his problem I am not sure what to do.

    Thanks.
  • Hi,
    I had been reading some of your discussions, and you are excellent! I was hoping that you might be able to help me with an unusual problem that I am having with a 98 Grand Prix GT (2 DR, 3.8L, nat asp). Recently I noticed that when the heater/air blower motor switch is moved from off or high to an intermediate speed, the blower usually stops and the daytime running lights go out. If I pull the fuse for the blower intermediate speeds, the blower does not work, but the DRL’s do. During the time that the DRL’s are out, the air conditioning can not be activated. I am not sure if it is related, but the indicator for the rear window defrost no longer lights, but I can hear the relay click, and think that I see the lights dim slightly. Sometimes I can still get a lower intermediate speed for the blower motor, and the DRL’s work. Does anybody have any experience or suggestions for this combination?
  • Hey there, PLEASE let me know if you have figured out your blower problem. I just had my grand prix in the shop and they can't figure it out. It's cold in Wisconsin!!! My problem is the exact same thing you're having. Thanks
    Steve
  • Hello,
    I recently just had my heater go out also, fortunetly after reading several sites and going to my college's automotive dept. I found out it is my resistor pack that I have to replace. However, I may possibly have stumbled across an answer for your question. I have included a link to a site that explains it. Since you are having problems with your DRL's and your heater it is possibly your resistor pack and an ignition switch (I think). Here is the sites that explain it better along with photos of how to replace the part.

    http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=20670

    I hope this helps.
    Justin
  • Hello,
    I recently just had my heater go out also, fortunetly after reading several sites and going to my college's automotive dept. I found out it is my resistor pack that I have to replace. However, I may possibly have stumbled across an answer for your question. I have included a link to a site that explains it. Since you are having problems with your DRL's and your heater it is possibly your resistor pack and an ignition switch (I think). Here is the sites that explain it better along with photos of how to replace the part.

    http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=20670
  • Hey thank you. I will give it a shot. If it works I will post the outcome.
  • Wow! Thanks for all the info. I tried changing the resistor pack as a start, but of course that didn't help. I pulled the control panel out of the dash and traced wires. I found that the entire row of three mini fuses located second from the left by the glove compartment (includes HVAC CNTRL, Blower, and Powre Drop) loses power when the circuit is loaded. I jumped the row with power from the BLOWER HI mini fuse and everything worked. Not sure if the fuse center is powered all from one source or if the fan ignition switch from your link is the culprit. I will be investigating more and will post. Thanks everyone.
  • My 97 Grand Prix is doing the weirdest things. When I go to run my heater on 1-4 my daytime running lights go off. The heater will only work on #5 sometimes. Or it just won't work at all and the daytime running lights won't work either!

    And the low coolant light stays on (even though I have had my radiator flushed and filled)and the temperature gage will go from 100 to 260 and then back down again. I know that it is not overheating.

    HELP! Has anyone had a problem like this? I have taken to two people and they can't figure it out!! Others have asked for me to bring it in when the problem is occurring and of coarse they aren't open then.
  • ok ok i read most of the responces but min is a bit different............ my blower does not sut off when i remove key from ignition. weird huh........i whought it was the swith but all the contros still work so there must be more....hmmmmmz all i can think of is to ask for help if u wanna contact me directly message me fasteddie1722 on yahoo messenger
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