Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Pontiac Grand Prix Rattles, Clunks and other odd Noises

124»

Comments

  • I have a 2005 Grand Prix CompG with the same problem. Took car to dealership for service, found out whinning sound was power steering pump going out. The sound would not go away with fluid level at proper level, so dealer went ahead and replaced the pump. Hope this helps...
  • This might be the same problem that I just had fixed on my GXP a few months ago. I could hear and feel something in the steering shaft that felt like something was loose. I took it to the dealer, and they said it was the Independent Steering Shaft (ISS). While they were working on it, I researched it on the net, and found a lot of GM vehicles were having this same problem. The "cheap" fix was to just relube the shaft with a thicker grease to keep the clunking noise to a minimum. This shaft is a shorter piece that connects the steering shaft to the steering box. The "clunk" is the necessary space needed for one shaft to slide in and out of the other shaft. Luckily my dealer replaced this shaft instead of relubing it, and I have not heard or felt the sound since! Hooray!
  • Just thought you all might find this useful.

    Bulletin No.: 01-02-32-001J

    Date: June 08, 2007

    TECHNICAL

    Subject:
    Clunk Felt/Noise Heard From Steering Column, Steering Gear and/or Front Of Vehicle During Turning Maneuver and/or Steering Wheel Rotation (Lubricate or Replace Intermediate Shaft As Appropriate)

    Models:
    2001-2004 Buick Regal
    2005-2007 Buick Allure (Canada Only), LaCrosse
    1997-2005 Chevrolet Cavalier
    2000-2007 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo
    1998-2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue
    1997-2005 Pontiac Sunfire
    2004-2007 Pontiac Grand Prix

    Supercede:

    This bulletin is being revised to include I-shaft part number (P/N 25829293) for the 2000-2005 Monte Carlo. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-02-32-0011 (Section 02 - Steering).

    Condition

    Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the vehicle while driving during a turning maneuver. This condition may also be felt through the steering wheel when the vehicle is stationary and the wheel is rotated from steering stop to steering stop. Some vehicles may only exhibit the noise once for every 360°of wheel rotation. On all other vehicles, this clunk noise will be noticed during low speed acceleration or deceleration, typically in light turns of the steering wheel.

    Cause

    This condition may be caused by inadequate lubrication of the steering intermediate shaft which results in a slip stick condition possibly resulting in the clunk noise.

    Diagnostic Tip

    This condition is commonly misdiagnosed as originating in the steering gear and has resulted in the replacement of numerous steering gears without correcting the concern.

    Engineering Investigation shows that numerous steering gears have been misdiagnosed and replaced. The investigations shows that if the technician incorrectly diagnoses the steering gear as the cause of the noise and/or clunk during replacement of the steering gear, the technician may cycle the I-shaft, distributing the original grease in the I-shaft. This distribution of the original I-shaft grease may temporarily eliminate the I-shaft clunk so that the technician believes the noise and/or clunk is corrected with the steering gear replacement and returns the vehicle to the customer. After the customer drives the vehicles for several miles and dissipates the original grease, the noise may return.

    Attempt to duplicate the customer's concern and isolate the I-shaft by following the procedure below:

    Locate a large area (parking lot) where the vehicle can be turned in a tight circle.

    Turn the steering wheel to the right and/or left all the way to the steering lock, then off the steering lock a 1/4 turn. Drive the vehicle approximately 5 km/h (3 mph) in a circle, preferably over rough pavement or seams on the road surface. If a clunk is felt in the steering wheel, the MOST likely cause is the I-shaft - not the steering gear. Continue with the correction.

    Correction

    Due to the design of the new I-shaft, it is not possible to lubricate/grease the I-shaft.

    Replace the existing steering intermediate shaft using the service procedure found in Service Information. The remaining vehicles listed below will still need to have the current I-shafts re-lubricated. New I-shafts will be released later in 2007 for some of the remaining vehicles.

    Remove the intermediate steering shaft from the vehicle and lubricate the shaft with a Steering Column Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098237. Follow the service procedure listed below.

    Remove the steering intermediate shaft from the vehicle. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in the appropriate Service Manual.

    Fully extend the intermediate shaft by pulling the two shafts apart.

    Apply the grease supplied in the Steering Column Shaft Lubrication Kit in the aluminum end of the yoke opening. Direct the syringe tip as deep as possible into the yoke and dispense the full content of the syringe.

    Install the rubber stop plug from the Steering Column Shaft Lubrication kit into the yoke opening.

    Secure the rubber plug by swinging the upper yoke 90°. One ear of the yoke should press the rubber plug in.

    Make sure the intermediate shaft is being pressed over the ears of the solid shaft.

    Use a hard surface to ease the collapse of the intermediate shaft. It is best to use a pumping action when collapsing the shaft. Collapse the shaft as far as possible.

    Remove the rubber stopper plug from the yoke end of the shaft.

    Slowly extend the intermediate shaft apart.

    Inspect the intermediate shaft for a minimum of 5 mm (0.2 in) (a) of grease on the shaft splines.

    Repeat Steps 4-9 if less than 5 mm (0.2 in) of grease is on the shaft splines.

    Before installing the intermediate shaft in the vehicle, make sure to stroke and extend the intermediate shaft at least 15 TIMES to completely lubricate the internal surface of the slip joint.

    Reinstall the intermediate shaft into the vehicle. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in the appropriate Service Manual.
  • I have all of these same problems. 2006 Grand Prix with 50,000 miles. I have the clunking that no mechanic can figure out, but I will have the dealer try the above solution. I also have that battery volt problem, Ive tried this. I got a battery brush, cleaner and protectant and cleaned up the battery and the terminals really good. Now this seems to keep my volts up. Maybe a dealer battery is just dying already, I never really heard anything about GM delco batteries before, but you never know. If anybody has battery problems with a different kind of battery, sears die hard, walmart, autozone, etc, let me know as it might be another flaw with the car. Also, my car is very sluggish, and this helped. I did this at my last oil change. I put a motor flush in it, ran it for 5 mins and drained the oil. I also put a slick 50 syntec in it becuase it has teflon in it and it is good to put one in at 50,000 miles because they warranty your engine, esp if your like me and your warranty ran out and I only ever put synthetic blend oil in my car because I have used the cheap oil for all my old cars and the dealer told me to put this in because it improves gas milage. I did not believe them, so it was saying I was avg 24.4 miles a galon when i bought it, well i did my first oil change and put cheap oil in it, and my avg mile dropped to 21.6, so now i stick with syntetic blend. I also cleaned my fuel injectors and throttle body at 50,000 miles and you should have seen how dirty thaat was, not it drives like brand new. But the problem I have is like my gas pedal sticks and when you let off the gas and go to push it slightly it don go and then it goes and gives alot of gas. What should I do for this? I can stand going slow it sticks and then takes off, sometimes it shifts really odd too, I didnt read anything about transmission problems, but if anybody has had transmissions problems let me know too. I really think I am going to purchase an extended warranty because it seems like this car has alot of problems, so if you go to carchex.com they are actually not priced very bad, for about $100 dollars down, and $100 a month for 11 months there after you can actually get like a 5 year 100,000 mile warranty and that isnt bad priced, i think that is what i am going to do since i cant afford to trade it in with a loan on it andchance losing more money and ending up with a bigger car payment and high car insurance. What do you all think
  • I have all of these same problems. 2006 Grand Prix with 50,000 miles.It was an amazing to drive car when I first got it. It was a GM Certified car i bought with 11,000 miles on it, previously was a rental car. Now I am gettign all these problems. I have the clunking that no mechanic can figure out, but I will have the dealer try the above solution. I also have that battery volt problem, Ive tried this. I got a battery brush, cleaner and protectant and cleaned up the battery and the terminals really good. Now this seems to keep my volts up. Maybe a dealer battery is just dying already, I never really heard anything about GM delco batteries before, but you never know. If anybody has battery problems with a different kind of battery, sears die hard, walmart, autozone, etc, let me know as it might be another flaw with the car. Also, my car is very sluggish, and this helped. I did this at my last oil change. I put a motor flush in it, ran it for 5 mins and drained the oil. I also put a slick 50 syntec in it becuase it has teflon in it and it is good to put one in at 50,000 miles because they warranty your engine, esp if your like me and your warranty ran out and I only ever put synthetic blend oil in my car because I have used the cheap oil for all my old cars and the dealer told me to put this in because it improves gas milage. I did not believe them, so it was saying I was avg 24.4 miles a galon when i bought it, well i did my first oil change and put cheap oil in it, and my avg mile dropped to 21.6, so now i stick with syntetic blend. I also cleaned my fuel injectors and throttle body at 50,000 miles and you should have seen how dirty thaat was, not it drives like brand new. But the problem I have is like my gas pedal sticks and when you let off the gas and go to push it slightly it don go and then it goes and gives alot of gas. What should I do for this? I can stand going slow it sticks and then takes off, sometimes it shifts really odd too, I didnt read anything about transmission problems, but if anybody has had transmissions problems let me know too. I really think I am going to purchase an extended warranty because it seems like this car has alot of problems, so if you go to carchex.com they are actually not priced very bad, for about $100 dollars down, and $100 a month for 11 months there after you can actually get like a 5 year 100,000 mile warranty and that isnt bad priced, i think that is what i am going to do since i cant afford to trade it in with a loan on it andchance losing more money and ending up with a bigger car payment and high car insurance. What do you all think
  • msmishmsmish Posts: 7
    Junk is right! Well my gas pedal also started to stick and would eventually just take off. It also was sluggish. Come to find out i needed to replace the carburetor! Needless to say i was very angry. It seemed like every other day my engine light was coming on. All my sensors were failing. Loved this car in the beginning. Drove perfect but after 50,000 miles it started acting up. Dont know why. Made sure I kept up all the maitnence on the car. Flushes, injector cleaned, tune up; and its still breaking my heart! Making some kinda weird noise when i accelerate. Like something rusted somewhere. So i wish u the best of luck. If you here anything new let me know so i can be prepared! LOL
  • This car is really falling apart on me. 2004 with 55K. Check engine lights, weird noises, funny thumps. Looks like it'll be better to just replace it at this point.
  • My 2000 Grand prix has been making a creaking noise when putting into drive. If I put my foot on the break while in drive and goose the engine it makes the noise too. Resently it started making it when excelerating and breaking. Does this sound like the bottom engine mount???
  • tightnuptightnup Posts: 1
    depending on the milage and the delivery date of your car the control unit and the catalyst should have been covered under the 8 year 80,000 mile federal emissions warranty. if you had it done at the dealer they should have advised you i would contact them if you fall under 8/80 if you had it done at an indepedant shop`you maybe out of luck
    k
  • After researching this issue with my Pontiac Grand Prix (04), I was happy to read about the same problem being experienced with the steering.

    I also get a "service variable effort steering" message displayed.

    I took it to the dealership, and they told me it was due to worn front wheel/hub bearings. After replacing both, the problem did not go away.

    I then took it to Gerald's Tires to get an all wheel alignment, and the mechanic said that it could be a problem with the intermediate shaft in the steering column.

    Did the dealership charge you for the replacement....was there a warranty issued for this problem.....?
  • Yes they charged me and no there was no warranty issued.
  • I have the same year car and have the same problem. It started about 2 weeks ago. I would appreciate any info on what it might be if you find out.
  • I have a 1997 Grand Prix and my ac barely blows air in the middle and driver side vents and the air is warm. Only the passager side my ac blows air normal on any speed and its cool air, this is with it being full of freon. Also I have changed the blower motor.
  • I have a 1999 GTP with about 175k on it. Just purchased in January. After replacing a few needed things (tires, mufflers, mass air flow, tune up... it runs like new! Now, this weird thing started: When under load, there is a loud clicking/clanking sound coming from seemingly the left front wheel area. It will drive fine in any gear, at any speed - when I go easy on it, but when I put it to the floor, it makes this loud sound and it feels like something is slipping. I can make it happen at 20mph or at 80mph - I tried revving while coasting in neutral and no sound - only when in drive and when I stomp on it. It sounds and feels like something is skipping. UPDATE- i replaced the cv axle yesterday- didn't help. No play in the bearing either. Is it differential related? Tranny?

    Heeeelllp! I want to save this car.
  • it was the tranny. had a jasper put in- runs like new again!!! 300k here i come.
  • i have 2007gp and it was te power stearing, they had to replace it.
  • Never found a cause for what my noise was but about a year later it just stopped and has yet to make the noise since. I'm glad it stopped but I still wonder what it was.
  • iwhiteiwhite Posts: 1
    Just bought 2 DAYS AGO, a 2007 Pontiac Grand Prix GT 3.8 V6 Supercharged. USED. I hear a constant noise from the dashboard, sounds like an air compressor. Sometimes it stops, but when I push the CD eject button the noise starts again. This is happening with engine on or OFF. PLEASE SOMEONE GIVE ME A HINT WHAT SHOULD I DO. I HAVE NO $ AT ALL TO BRING IT TO A SHOP.
    THANK YOU
  • motorcity6motorcity6 Posts: 427
    Car in question is my 2006 GPGT purchased used 6/30/07 w/4300 miles from local Caddy dealer..Traded in a 2002 Olds Intrigue w/120k miles, bought new and was a great car..

    To the GP's ills, ISS-3rd shaft installed around 30k miles, still good, 5th battery since new, had to pay for the last one, however next one is free..and last week @ 59k miles, replaced the Front engine and Tranny mounts..On the 3rd set of tires due to various problems not blamed on tread life, mainly misalignment due to car dealer's lack of honesty..or competent help..

    Still on original brakes, wheel bearings, and using "Royal Purple" oil..Car is not "Hot rodded", however interstate driving is swift to say the least..Having owned 53 cars to date, this one is not high on my list with praise..It was a cheap buy, Black ext w/tan leather and sunroof..Had a 2010 Mustang GT for a brief period, but was offered pricing too good to keep around, however the new 5.0 Mustang will find my garage soon..

    My advice to Grand Prix owners is "sell." I live in SW Fla, so heat is the big killer of many mechanical items, however I will keep this car for other visiting family members to drive, since the manual shift Mustang is off-limits to certain family members..

    Putting a ton of money into any Grand Prix is foolish, for the resale value is priced near junk levels..I stay away from the local original car dealer except for battery problems, and alignment is done by the Chevy dealer..Oil change, tire balance, and other work is performed by a small 2-man shop with GM extensive background, plus a "Tire Rack" installer and tire balance is a must for smooth high-speed driving..

    The W body layout of the Chevy Impala and the Grand Prix is old style, however the Intrigue series from 1998 thru 2002 was a stand alone W-body..The 1998 Intrigue had the 3.8 V-6, and starting with the 1999 model thru 2002 had the 3.5, 4 valve all-alum V-6 which was a fun motor..Had a 1998 Intrigue which GM repurchased from me @26k miles, next came the 1999 Intrigue GLS and a 2002 Intrigue GLS..The 1998 Intrigue had steering and brake issues, and the 1999 and 2002 had similiar issues but not as serious, however the engine and suspension setup with some modifications to stock made it a fun car to drive..

    The S/C Pontiac does come alive above 70 mph, one of it's good qualities, a/c is okay, and wind noise is high, Monsoon stereo is okay, comfort level bad, but it is a pretty car, adores premium gas, will keep until it gets to 90K...
  • You're a car killer! I am 40 years old and only on my 4th car, 3 of them Pontiacs, the first being a Buick J-body. The '84 Skyhawk (2 litre/2bbl/5-speed) had 245,000kms running strong but body was rotting so sold it. Then '90 Tempest (3.1 litre/5-speed) had 275,000kms running strong before I sold it for a much needed van, a '95 Trans Sport SE(3800). Still have the van, still runs great at 352,000kms, and "no" I have not had gasket problems. All of the above vehicles except the Skyhawk were purchased used, and with less than 50,000kms. No major failures, no major triumphs - they were what they were. Changed the oil every 4000 kms (not 5000).
    My current Pontiac is a 2007 Grand Prix GXP 5.3litre V-8. Handles like a champ, goes like hot snot and loves to be babied too. Bought it with 27,000kms and now have 43,000kms. Only disappointment is the front brake wear. I'm needing to change rotors/pads already and I'm not exactly hard on my vehicles (obviously if you look at the numbers).
    Long story short - before you buy a used vehicle know what you're buying and when you buy it take care of it.
    BTW, the Monsoon stereo is the WORSE isn't it?? It hurts my ears.
  • motorcity6motorcity6 Posts: 427
    I have considered buying a used GXP, however after reading all the complaints of the brake and tranny problems, along with the rotten front tire life. I decided that my 2006 GT is the final GM product ever for me..

    I don't abuse cars, don't like to mess around with dealers, have seen way too many in my long life..

    Used to make the run from Detroit area to Pt. Robinson, Ont, twice a month, approx. 380 miles round trip..Smoked the roads, 6hrs of driving for the day..3 hrs in meetings..Got my worst speeding ticket ever 2 blocks from the BlueWater bridge at Sarnia, Ont..The cop was laying in the ditch w/radar gun and got nailed for $300., US..

    Neat roads in Canada, and I really enjoyed the people..Don't really go for the political ideology but it is better than the current regime in the USA...

    The Ford Mustang GT will be here shortly, however the Pontiac will be preserved/reserved for visiting family members to drive..I know how the family drives and they ain't getting the 6spd manual shift V-8 to abuse..That's for me to do..
  • I have a 2002 pontiac grand prix gt and it is making a noise at the front of my car that sounds like hitting two hollow pieces of wood together. I tried to determine if it was just going it at certain times or not. It just does it. Do you have a possible diagnosis?
  • I have a 2008 pontiac grand prix. Around 98,000 miles I noticed my car started to shutter. I had recently replaced my battery so I figured my throttle was recalibrating itself. Wrong! The shuttering starting to get worse. After I took it to a mechanic I found out that due to an inferior alluminum used in the transmission that I am now looking at having my transmission rebuilt. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • Does anyone know of any reflashes for my pontiac grand prix? (computer update for car)
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,086
    We hope the rebuild goes okay, swolemj. Are you working with a local mechanic, or with one of our GM dealerships?

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
124»
Sign In or Register to comment.