Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Pontiac Grand Prix Traction Control/STS/ABS

1567911

Comments

  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Posts: 1,964
    schatzee48,
    Thank you for your support for GM over the last few decades - it is certainly appreciated. I see that you mentioned a current vehicle concern (the fuel gauge on your Traverse) and wanted to check in to see how the repair progress was going. Has your dealership been able to resolve it or are they currently working on this for you?
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • fkesonfkeson Posts: 1
    Honestly, I don't have time to read all of this thread. Here is my issue:
    Just purchased this car with 95,200 miles on it. Rubbing noise coming from brake area, ABS wants to kick in when going at slow speeds and in the midst of making a turn, the Check ABS light is coming on and the car seems to be stalling.. It will crank fine but then the next time it wont and you can smell gas, like it is getting to much fuel... remember when the older cars would get flooded out? That smell.. I can't have my 17 year old driving a car that is potentially dangerous. WHAT IS THE PROB? Warranty is most likely not an option for us so repairs need to be accurately diagnosed and cost effective! Lastly, we have checked the wheel bearings and they seem fine.
    Thanks, Fairlyn :confuse: :mad:
  • algp2005algp2005 Posts: 10
    Well I have the same problem as most of you with the ABS and Traction Control lights coming on.
    I was able to contact Christina at GM, who seems like a very helpful person, but unfortunately she could only offer me a contact for customer service here in Canada. I contacted them and they were absolutely no help at all. I did put a meter on the pins on the connector that connects to the EBC and I got very similar readings. So my next step is to take the readings at the wheel sensors.
    It's been too hot here lately so I will wait for a cooler day to jack the car up and remove the wheels to check the readings at the wheel sensors. don't really know what else to do.
    I have a friend with a scanner and of course no codes show up.
  • eddie71eddie71 Posts: 10
    The wire harness that the wheel speed sensor plugs into have a very high failure rate. I changed mine out a few weeks ago & solved my same issue. Harness was had from NAPA auto parts for around $35. I also seen the same part on Amazon. You need a scanner that can do "ABS" codes thats why you are not coming up with any code.
  • algp2005algp2005 Posts: 10
    was that NAPA in the US or Canada? where did you splice the new cable in.

    Thanks for the help.
  • algp2005algp2005 Posts: 10
    edited July 2012
    Hello lightweight, i really appreciate your detailed explanation on how to check where the problem is. I managed to put a meter across the points as you described above but only on the connector for the module itself. All the readings were very close to each other so I'm thinking that even if there was a bad sensor it would have showed up on the meter? My problem is very intermittent so I'm not sure it would show up because the lights never stay on all the time. When they do come on once I shut the car off and re start it the lights are gone. This is why I really think it's a bad wire in the harness somewhere. I really have reservations taking it to a Dealer or even a Garage as they will just start changing parts and this could become very costly.
    Did you end up replacing the harness or did you just repair where you found the break in the wire? I'm thinking I will try and replace the left side harness as this seems to be the side that is causing the problem for most people. Just wondering what is involved in re routing the new harness? Looks like it could be quite a job? And where would I splice in the new harness? Probably close to the module just before the connector? If this don't work the only other option I see that makes sense to me is to pull the fuse for the ABS and run the car without ABS. Not sure if that will work either but I'm hoping someone here has tried?

    Thanks For The Help

    Al
  • eddie71eddie71 Posts: 10
    US Napa. Mine was the passenger side. Keep removing the cable & it will go into a large loom right behind the radiator. With your head on the ground looking up into the engine bay it is right in front of you. Leave some wire & cut it off there. The new cable comes with butt connectors but I chose to solder & heat shrink the connection.
  • eddie71eddie71 Posts: 10
    Replace the harness. not involved at all, 10 minute job. Follow old harness to end & cut off there leaving some to attach new harness. Very easy fix. Good luck
  • algp2005algp2005 Posts: 10
    Thanks Eddie, looks like Napa here in Canada only have the one for the passenger side. I wonder if this will work on the drivers side maybe just different color wires? Another question, when I follow the old harness to the end will it not take me up to the control module? Or does it actually stop at the rad. and continue from there in another harness?

    Thanks Again
  • liteweightliteweight Posts: 4
    edited July 2012
    Hi Al
    Correct diagnosing has become a lost art in most stealerships, & garages today. The mechanics rely all too often on just replacing parts till they find the problem through trial & error (if they ever do). This is how they are trained today. The end result is the customer lands up flipping the bills on the mechanics quessing game for parts & labor replacing parts that don't require replacing.
    The customer relations hotline at corporate levels are a freakin joke. Their job is to nothing more than relay phone numbers to their internal network of dealers.
    Good to see you've taken the incentive into doing it yourself. The meter readings your getting are telling you there is contact in each circuit WHILE your testing, but remember all you need is a break in a wire that is making contact through a single strand of wire. What you'll need to do is flex the wires in the most common fail points, you'll see where they bend, while having an audible meter attached to that circuit. The most common areas of faults are in the front.
    I have access to a wiring diagram for these cars if your interested. Just gotta fiqure a way of sending it to you since I can't find a way of attaching a file here.
    Let me know

    liteweight
  • algp2005algp2005 Posts: 10
    edited July 2012
    Thanks Liteweight, I'll let you know if I need the diagram. I'm in the mist of tracking down the harness now but looks like no stock up here at Napa so I'll have to order it. I had a quick look from underneath as Eddie mentioned but it looks like I need to remove the spash pan to see anything. I can see where all the harnesses meet from the top of the engin though. It's just in front of the rad., the engin side of the rad., it looks like I could splice it there but not sure there is enough room to do it properly?
  • brenfelb3brenfelb3 Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP that I just bought 4 months ago.... it's had nothing but problems since! Now the ABS/TCS light that was just coming off and on for a month or so, is on all the time now. It feels like the wheels are sticking when I turn. With so many people have the same issue (by the looks at this forum), why hasn't GM issued a recall? There's obviously a problem here!

    Thanks.
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Posts: 1,964
    Good morning brenfelb3,

    I am unable to speak to the details of how product quality decisions (like recalls) are made. If you would like for us to look into the ABS/TCS concern you're currently having with your vehicle, please send us more information at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name, contact information, the last 8 of your VIN, and the name of your dealership).

    Kind regards,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • brenfelb3
    Save yourself the aggrivation & money you will be pouring out of your pocket to a GM dealership & read post #163 & 176. I have yet to this date heard ANY POSITIVE responses from ANYONE who went the gm customer service route. Most are greeted with a huge bill & a car that is not repaired

    liteweight
  • algp2005algp2005 Posts: 10
    edited July 2012
    I recieved the 2 cables last night. I installed the one on the passanger side this morning and decided to test the car with just one side done. After driving around a bit today everything seems OK. No warning lights.
    Just keeping my fingers crossed that it's all good now, pretty sure it is as the lights were coming on pretty steady the last few days.
    Thanks Liteweight and Eddie, I hopefully managed to repair this GM Defect for less than it would have cost me for a scan at the dealer.

    One Note for anyone else that is doing this, If you order the harnesses from Dorman the clips are larger than the OE so they wont fit. I had to salvage the clips from the old cable.

    Thanks Again guys
    Al
  • Glad it worked out for you Al. How did you seal your splice??? You want to keep moisture out of it, specially if subject to salt conditions.

    liteweight
  • algp2005algp2005 Posts: 10
    I used the connectors that Dorman sent with the cables.
    Crimped both ends and then heat shrink to seal. Looks questionable but I think it should be OK. If I have problems with that side again I will solder and heat shrink both wires.
  • lm04lm04 Posts: 2
    Hello:

    I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix and have the same issues but I have no experience in auto repair and the last mechanic I went to replaced my Hub assembly as he said that is what the computer codes were saying they thought it was a bad sensor. This was not correct and I continue to have the issue. My question is do you think an inexperienced person can fix?
  • algp2005algp2005 Posts: 10
    Hmm, to be honest I think only you can answer that question. But why not jack up the car, remove the passenger side wheel and have a look to see if it's something you want to tackel yourself.
Sign In or Register to comment.